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depends on how thin you are... I would need the car jacked up on that side (but I weigh 270...) you might be able to just look under the rocker area, it should be close to there. The front most cable goes to the parking brake assy inside the car. from there, it should split into 2 cables...

parking brake cable.. front most cable (the one that goes inside the car) is likely sticking.

well, oil on plug 1 will also cause a misfire.. that may be the issue.

remember, when you hose down the latch with wd40.. you need to make sure to spray UP (towards top of latch) a lot. the switch may live up there (it did on my 91 conti, and my 92 cougar).

what are the actual codes.. each O2 sensor will set different codes.

junkyard dont have one?

ok, its a 15-16 year old car (depending on build date).. many of the items you have changed, and need to change now, fail in that time frame.. in the end, resale value will NOT be affected that much by the repairs. Biggest thing to think of is when all these things are fixed, you still...

yup, lack of squish in a cylinder will be a problem. did you clean the plug holes out with compressed air or a vacuum after you pulled the wires, but before the plug was removed?? if not, I suspect some debris fell into the plug hole, and scored up the cylinder pretty badly

as far as rotor quality goes, the cheaper ones are usually cheaper quality. there have been reported instances of the cheapo (usually chinese made, thats why they are cheap), not lasting as long as they should. I couldn't tell you what brand is better, other than most people who dont...

change the rubber hose to the caliper. they are a 'double' hose, and the internal portion can collapse (leaving the external look and feel ok) and it can act like a one way valve (only letting brake fluid into the caliper, not out). air can cause similar problems as well. if it was me, since...

yup. I forgot to mention that I agree with a vacuum leak could be the cause of a lean condition. about the only way a vacuum leak can cause a localized miss-fire would be if its leaking right at the intake port on the head (bad manifold gasket, or crack). otherwise it would just cause an...

a miss fire on only 1 cylinder is not gonna be a vacuum leak, that would effect all. miss fire on one cylinder is usually plug, coil pack, or wires on the 4.6's. if there is oil on the boot for the plug, it causes the high voltage from the spark to be routed to the engine block thru the oil...

its not too hard at all, just a tight location. no special tools needed, but a long 15mm (I think) box end wrench with little or no offset will make it easier to pull on the tensioner to release and reinstall the belt. the reason I say use a box end wrench is that my socket and ratchet would...

always pull the codes when you have a check engine light. it may not tell you what is wrong, but will tell you what the computer is biatching about. take care of check engine light issues 1st, many times once thats fixed, drivability problems go away! when you changed your plugs and...

while I am not an expert on the 99's, there is probably a cable from the shifter to the shift lever on the trans to actually perform the gear selection. maybe its got some gummed up lube in it?? otherwise, I cannot think of anything else

+1 on the tuneup. many of the 'cold' problems can be traced to bad plugs/wires. once the engine is warmed up a little, it takes less spark energy to light the fires.

what year?? common problems after running tank dry are bad pump, plugged filter. as far as an access to the pump from the trunk, dont bet on it.

on the resoldering, it depends on the condition of the existing solder. if possible, the best method would be to desolder them, then all new fresh. I have had good sucess with just heating the old joint, and adding some fresh to it (the flux in the new solder will do wonders for reflowing the...

if your going thru coolant (dont use straight water for any length of time over a couple days) pretty quick, with no signs of leakage, then a headgasket is probably bad. testing for oil/coolant contamination is pretty easy actually, as in the rad you will see oil floatin on top, and in the...

ok, lets start with the codes.. 533=Data communications link to electronic instrument cluster (EIC) fault(note, this will not cause a problem with the car running, just the display of info on the dash) 634=Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor voltage out of Self-Test range 648=Incorrect...