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i really wanna put a hvac heater valve somewhere on a coolant line and just switch it before winter and before summer. where could i put a ball valve to stop flow to the dccv? im tired of dealing with this mess.

Thanks joe again, so i got to this part, and couldnt figure out if it was asking to probe from the dccv connector to the back of the climate module in the car, or the 26pin connector, or probe the points with the connector attached to the module. I only tested the points from the dccv connector...

came across a pinout for the wire harness going to it, looks like 12v in the center and switched grounds on the two outside terminals? Is this correct? If so, im curious to test mine while its still on the car to see if its the dccv or the wiring because i put that new motorcraft yg in it back...

Looking to install a tow hook to the front bumper, or lower grill area since i have a truck now i can pull this if i get stranded again. Has anyone done an install, and if so what parts were used and location of drilling, etc Thanks

I replied to this with an update not sure why it didnt post? Anyways, its a success, i took apart the starter and cleaned it good, regreased the gears, 3m weatherstrip sealant sealed it, (a wax is used from factory around the starter seams to keep it weathertight) and redid the field coil wire...

yea i thought about that, surely theres something out there we can use.. cut out that plastic crap and hose clamp it.. oh welll.. anyways.. i used jbweld red high temp on it, sanded, alcohol prepped it... joegr gonna kick my a. he tries his best to instill proper repair on these lincolns..

Has anyone seen this? Instead of buying the whole hose kit, is there not an aluminum or non corrosive metal pipe joining connector we can get at lowes or amazon?? This part is 70+ shipping on rockauto. I got this pinhole on the plastic center piece, my epoxy held for about 6 months and is...

Yes, ive once already rectified the one click issue by loosening the wires on the solenoid and cleaning like you said, problem is, it was rusted and corroded to where the nuts wont come off, they're now spinning in the solenoid. So now i cant even get the nuts off to do any inspection or real...

i ended up ordering this, so we'll see if it fits and works, i may post pictures of the starter cleanup. Not sure where i can buy a new set of brushes locally, but looks like i can guess work a new end cap brush holder off ebay at some point. I'll just inspect what i have and hope its not...

for a 2003 ls 3.9 i'm looking at this as a possible? the starter that came out is visteon brand, but no markings of part numbers on the solenoid of course, trying to get out of buying a whole new starter...

Now this seems to be getting worse as the temps dropped really low its exhaserbated the already issue i couldnt figure out which is now resulting in new pids, sluggish power, and strange shifting, Started in the summer, idle would shudder like its about to shut down, but once the coolant temp...

crap. well i took pictures of everything before and after install, so i'll have to take some time to calculate what it actually is.. maybe...

Does anyone know if theres odometer mileage stored in another module besides of the cluster? I did a cluster swap a while back and could never change the mileage, so 'm stuck looking at a high mileage on the dash, and have to do stupid calculations to kinda ballpark what the real miles are. Most...

I'm buying into HP tuners for my sierra and challenger, and interested to know if its worth buying credits for the LS and if anyones even tuning them anymore. I'm aware of the SCT tuner, but feel like hp would be more robust? Any insight is appreciated. I've already got forscan pro android...

these are the codes, your general basic ones we all get, nothing about which blend door. its just squeaking and squirtling from the time the key goes in till who knows when which i suspect is what just drained the battery. 2796, ?? 2426, solar sensor 2798, driver side dccv, though the dccv is...

thanks joe, is there a fuse i can pull to disable these? if it takes out the hvac cluster i dont even care at this point. Im at the point of pulling a fuse or cutting some wires to get it to stop.

This has been going on for years, and it seems to have gotten louder, faster, and who knows how long it keeps doing it when ive exited the car.. I really wanna unplug whatever it is, im sure it has something to do with the hvac, but ive looked in there with the radio out and dont see anything...

pics attached. This should be oem paint, and im not sure how thick of a clear ford painted these vehicles back then.. It looks like its gone down to the primer, the white spots at first i thought were paint drops but are actually craters from i dont know where. The car sat for years in mild...

im about to replace the upper and lower rad hose plastic set myself, probably degas bottle too. getting my parts off rockauto, currently price for all 3 are about 220 shipped. The upper rad hose plastic connector started showing signs of white corrosive looking stuff on the top of the plastic...

I'm back on this electrical gremlin now. Any news or suggestions for this one? Headlights just randomly flash once in the middle of the night a few times. Years later, and still an issue. Thanks