01 LS Coolant Parts Replacement advice please!!

DaleGrib

DaleGrib

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I am gonna be replacing all the coolant parts on my 2001 LS (The Plastic ones and Degas Bottle) But I wanted to know, being it is a 2001 what else I should go ahead and replace.

So the list I have so far for the coolant parts
Motorcraft KM4402 Upper Radiator Hose*
Motorcraft KM4565 Lower Radiator Hose
Coolant Outlet Pipe (crossover tube) XW4Z-8A520-AF
MOTORCRAFT Thermostat RT1154
URO Parts C2C34318 Expansion Tank, 1 Pack
Motorcraft RS-527 Radiator Pressure Cap
Motorcraft KM4566 Water Outlet Housing*
URO Parts NCE2247ADKIT-PRM Aluminum T-Stat Housing Kit*
Auxiliary Coolant Pump 1W4Z-18D473-AA*
MOTORCRAFT PW448 Water Pump
MOTORCRAFT RAD31 Radiator
DCCV (Heater Valve) MOTORCRAFT YG355 or Bosch W0133-1799792

If I am missing anything just let me know. I will edit this list as I get suggestions. The * simply means I have already ordered.
 
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All the parts will fail at some point. It will probably be less frustrating to replace everything rather than replace one thing, add coolant, bleed to then notice the leak is still there.

Also, many times the cracks are not visible yet manifest themselves when the system is put under pressure as the coolant temp rises to operating temp.

Since you have a Gen 1, you can get the Jag aluminum T-Stat housing rather than replace with plastic. Don't skimp on the recovery (degas) bottle, the cheaper ones will fail in the short term. That being said, there seems to be some reasonably better bottles like the Uro Jag (ÜRO PARTS C2C34318) at $60 vs $180 for Motorcraft. It is said that there needs to be a slight fire wall adjustment to make it fit. I can't speak to it other than that.

And yes, the water pump can fail. Mine (04 V8) did just recently.

Just do lots of searches on this site, this is the most talked about issue.
 
rgorke said:
All the parts will fail at some point. It will probably be less frustrating to replace everything rather than replace one thing, add coolant, bleed to then notice the leak is still there.
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That was kinda the reason I said I am replacing all the coolant parts. I just wanted to know what all else I should replace. I have made a list of stuff I know it should need here it is.

Upper and Lower Hose assemblies with the connectors, New Degas Bottle going with the Uro Jaguar one not Motorcraft, Uro Jaguar Thermostat housing, Water Pump even if not needed I figure it is a 2001 it would be a great time to change being it's not crazy expensive. And Whatever else you all tell me that should be replaced! I am also gonna replace the crossover tube assembly and if there is anything else I missed please let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-C2...=UTF8&qid=1529163131&sr=8-1&keywords=C2C34318
I noticed it does not come with a cap or a hose. So should I buy a motorcraft cap or a Uro cap? And should I buy a new hose and clamp as well?
 
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My radiator blew on my ‘03 at around 180k miles. I am doing an overhaul on my ‘06 and I will be replacing the radiator now because it’s a very common problem on these cars. The front top passenger side corner develops a vertical crack on these cars. My ‘06 has 125k miles and if I look through the grill, I can see where the radiator will eventually blow, just like the one on my ‘03.

C8172903-C4A3-4038-98D0-083F4D218B37.jpeg
 
toby1234 said:
My radiator blew on my ‘03 at around 180k miles. I am doing an overhaul on my ‘06 and I will be replacing the radiator now because it’s a very common problem on these cars. The front top passenger side corner develops a vertical crack on these cars. My ‘06 has 125k miles and if I look through the grill, I can see where the radiator will eventually blow, just like the one on my ‘03.

View attachment 828569847
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I will take a 2nd look at mine today. I am still trying to get over being overheated from yesterday... Was not exactly fun having to wait 2 hours for a tow truck in the direct sun light! When I checked around all around my radiator it looks pretty clean nothing looks cracked or broken so I think I am good on the Radiator for now. But thanks will take a 2nd look at mine cause of you pointing out your weak spot on yours. But I did at least order that awesome crowfoot wrench so I can change out that thermostat and housing !

Edit: I checked but I don't have pics and all seemed to look fine on the radiator area. But there was a lot of leafs and trash that had got between the radiator. So I cleaned it up the best I could do since my pressure washer just took a crap on me today. Will fix that and clean it up really good before I get her back on the road.
 
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I had to make another post cause I am very blind for some reason (I need glasses) Think I figured out my leak
1.jpg
 
That picture I posted earlier was taken last week. I’m now changing it and glad I am. Although it wasn’t leaking, it is definitely about to start. Mind you, I drained the system out last week and haven’t driven it since.

90430601-C3F7-4D7D-930D-ECE60F613B5A.jpeg


462E1511-56A0-4D7B-861E-ECDC44E2445A.jpeg
 
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toby1234 said:
That picture I posted earlier was taken last week. I’m now changing it and glad I am. Although it wasn’t leaking, it is definitely about to start. Mind you, I drained the system out last week.

View attachment 828569850

View attachment 828569851
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I have a Gen 1 and it's not cracking on mine at all the car has 121K Miles on it. Just was very dirty which I cleaned up a good bit. I will be able to see more once I remove the coolant lines. They kept the car pretty clean for it's age but I guess they never took that top shield off though lol.
 
.

degas2-jpg.jpg



degas1-jpg.jpg



Re&Re - OEM Degas Bottle - GEN 1 V8


They all end up with micro-cracks on the back side of the bottle due to excessive heat cycling over time. It's hidden up against the firewall.

Often Members continue to report that they don't see anything wrong with the Degas Bottle, that they can not see any cracks and that it must be fine ... not the failing component.

Once the bottle is out ... cracks on the back side can be seen.

Clear sign that the degas bottle is done would be when a solid stream of hot coolant is pissing down directly behind the drivers front wheel.

While it gets to that stage it already has the micro-cracks in it and as already noted, during heat cycling and cool down, it will let air in and out. Introducing air into the closed-looped system and thus begins to radically overheat. Re-bleeding it over and over again yields little results as it will never properly bleed to the point that it will maintain it's required pressure within the system.


:: Typically 10yr/100K mi, these LS cooling systems need a complete rebuild with OEM parts ::


~ I'd replace that aging 1st GEN "Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump" and "Dual Climate Control Valve" as well if I was you (while entire system is open).



Dccv?

Re&Re - OEM Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump - GEN 1 V8

Re&Re - Jag Aluminum Upgraded Thermostat housing - GEN 1 V8

Re&RE - OEM Coolant Outlet Pipe - GEN 1 V8



GEN I - Understanding Climate Control System - No Heat Information



.
 
The previous owner had replaced the DCCV in the winter time with OEM so I think that should be ok. I will change out the aux pump though cause if it fails then coolant will leak right?
 
Yeah they can begin to leak as well, although it's not often reported. More so, if and when it fails on the 1st GEN it would not give you heat at idle. It's designed to assist with coolant flow at idle RPM's and in addition, it serves to move hot coolant on engine shut down (cool down).

If you know it to be an original part, it make good sense to replace it now while you have the entire system open. Goes without saying, if it's working fine, you could leave it but when it does fail, you'd be back in opening up the cooling system again just to replace said part.

You can of course always pinch coolant lines, replace part, top-up coolant and re-bleed system.

To me, all original OEM cooling system parts, deteriorate and fail right around that same time. Makes most sense to rebuild/replace all and be done with it. No sense replacing couple parts here and there only to have the next component fail.


.
 
Aux is really only a small 12V BOSCH flow pump.
~ not too pricey
 
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RigsLS said:
Yeah they can begin to leak as well, although it's not often reported. More so, if and when it fails on the 1st GEN it would not give you heat at idle. It's designed to assist with coolant flow at idle RPM's and in addition, it serves to move hot coolant on engine shut down (cool down).

If you know it to be an original part, it make good sense to replace it now while you have the entire system open. Goes without saying, if it's working fine, you could leave it but when it does fail, you'd be back in opening up the cooling system again just to replace said part.

You can of course always pinch coolant lines, replace part, top-up coolant and re-bleed system.

To me, all original OEM cooling system parts, deteriorate and fail right around that same time. Makes most sense to rebuild/replace all and be done with it. No sense replacing couple parts here and there only to have the next component fail.


.
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Well I am not entirely sure my tank cracked itself I think the issue was the inside metal tube it for sure is broke and the tube itself looks stretched out. The Tank had been replaced in the last few years with a OEM motorcraft bottle as per the carfax (Was at a Lincoln Dealer) just honestly looked like crap work I mean most of the plastic rivets that hold everything down on the top were in bad shape like they had been pried up on. This is the reason I am ordering the hose itself for the Tank when I order the Jaguar Uro Bottle.

I am replacing all that plastic though it looked aged for sure. Can you link me to the correct Coolant Outlet Pipe please? I keep finding the wrong part I think so I wanted to be sure which part number that one was. I am not saying the dealer did this it could very have well been the last owner cause the tank had that broken tube maybe they had overheating and could not figure out why and pulled up on the tank that is almost what it looks like to me. The Clamp even looked chewed up a good bit. Being it is pressurized I am not risking using that old hose at all...
 
I'm looking ... Fricken might be no longer made.
 
Thank you so much that helped me out a lot ! I just ordered the Upper Hose and that tank hose so hope to order more this week. I am not in a big rush to get this one back on the road I was already having to get the transmission rebuilt most likely cause of no reverse. (Or Swap with one from my old 2002 with the dead motor) but I want to get this done before to make sure that motor is still good since it did overheat. I mean I shut it off fast but as anyone knows it does not take much to blow the head gasket. That is why I am replacing everything that could cause this issue again. Great car but you don't ever want it to overheat !
 
RigsLS said:
https://www.amazon.com/Xw4z8a520af-Tube-Assembly-Oem-Ford/dp/B0042HC03M

Think that is the correct part for your 2001. It's been a while for me since this game ... and how the game has changed, parts hard to come by it seems. Glad I replaced mine when I did in my 01. For my 04 I have all mildly used spare cooling parts sitting in my basement.
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That is the link I had used on amazon but oddly enough add in a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 at the top and it says will not fit. That is what threw me off!
 
RigsLS said:
Aux is really only a small 12V BOSCH flow pump.
~ not too pricey
Click to expand...


Correction, just seen this on Tasca and crap has the price gone up! I don't recall paying near that much for mine many years ago.
 
RigsLS said:
Correction, just seen this on Tasca and crap has the price gone up! I don't recall paying near that much for mine many years ago.
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And that OEM hose for the tank is not cheap either! I got lucky Amazon showed it for $12 and I ordered it and then they changed their price to $38. They fixed that mistake fast.
 
RigsLS said:
Wierd, I get the same results,

however - XW4Z-8A520-AF - Ford Parts Giant
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I would have actually ordered instead of the upper hose first, but that part had me screwed up I was going crazy since last night looking for it. And it's a waste of time to call the stealership! I do want OEM parts but obviously I can get them cheaper elsewhere and they refuse to give part numbers. They even refuse to give part numbers for crap that is discontinued I have never seen anything like it in all my life. Had trouble getting oil mount replaced in my 2006 cause no one had the part. I got lucky my mechanic found replacement that just needed a minor mod to work. But crap like that can drive you nuts
 
Slowly coming back to me now how I hated to love this car, or was it love to hate?

:confused:
 
RigsLS said:
Slowly coming back to me now how I hated to love this car, or was it love to hate?

:confused:
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Yeah I like the cars a lot, the look and all of any Gen 1 or Gen 2. I might be crazy but I would take a 2006 LS over a Zephyr (I have owned one before and now own a 2006 LS and a 2001 LS) I just love my Rear wheel drive cars and the LS is a great Rear Wheel car. Just some of the coolant parts make you shake your head. The connectors should all be metal, but then the Stealerships would never make money on them... but then again they would with all the other expensive repairs these things can have.
 
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