01 LS Overheating (only when A/C is on?)

Had a similar issue on my 2000. Needed a new fan (yes, all 2000-2002 LSes have a hydraulic cooling fan). It was running, but the pump wasn't pumping enough fluid to spin the fan fast enough. On the freeway, fine, slow down and the temp would shoot up. As the pump and fan is an assembly, both had to be replaced. IIRC, it was quite expensive. The part is ~$400 and about 3 hours labor.

IMHO, you need a new pump assembly. I'm pretty sure it isn't a DIYer job. There are a couple of special tools required. There is also a special bleeding procedure.
 
LS4me is probably correct. Sounds like the fan just isn't drawing enough cool air over the radiator to keep the engine cool when sitting still.

IIRC there is an electric valve that controls the flow rate of the hydraulic fluid from the pump to the fan drive unit, there is a possibility that the valve is not opening up when it should, (or at all). You can test that by just listening to the fan as the car gets hotter. It should speed up enough that just a light touch on the throttle will make the fan audible inside the car even with the windows closed. (assuming there is no other noise inside the car) That would mean that the vale is opening and its letting more fluid through to spin the drive unit.
 
I have the same issue...took it to my dealer on tuesday....took them until yesterday to diagnose.....bad t/stat and o-rings....Rush hour in San diego sucks which means this is when I decided to pick up my car....10 mins into the drive home and all of a sudden car over heats and cel comes on. I pull over and call the dealership.....(I wont say the name but neone in the SD area nows which one I am referring too) they say have it towed back to them.....I said HELL NO! I shouldn't be out money to have them fix my car which they already charged me $260 for nothing!

neways got the car back to them and they think it is an air bubble in the system. BS!!! they have had the car all day and no phone call with update! this sucks! neways I have a feeling it is the PCV valve....that was the fix last time.
 
i'm gettin closer to resolving this issue fellas appreciate all ur input so far. had a mechanic checking it out 2day and he also doesn't think that the fan is blowing fast enough.
The cause of it not blowing fast enough is the question I guess. This is a new fan and motor, only thing I didn't replace was the hydraulic pump
 
neways I have a feeling it is the PCV valve....that was the fix last time.
Click to expand...
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve has nothing to do with your cooling system. It circulates clean air through the engine block and cylinder heads to prevent flammable oil vapors from building up and creating high pressure inside the engine that would blow out oil seals or possibly combust and start a fire.
 
O.k.....got the issue resolved the hydraulic pump on the fan is not operating correctly, not kicking into high.....another $500 to fix it.
 
Same Problem Here

well, temperatures are reaching mid-70's here and my similar overheating problem is back. No problems during the winter months. I've bled the system and still no avail. I'm going to get a new hyrdraulic pump as I'm convinced this is the problem. However I was hoping to do it myself. Maybe one of the more expierenced guys here can type up a tech article, as it looks like this is a very common problem with the older LS's. PLease....
 
why doesnt anybody go to a junk yard and get the hydraulic pump for a fraction of the cost????
if it dont work just bring it back and get your money i mean they also come with a warranty for like 6 months
 
What yard are you shopping at that gives you a 6 month warranty on parts? I wanna shop there. Most I've ever heard of was 30-45 days for parts, and 90 days/3000 miles for engines/transmissions. I still have yet to find a junkyard in my area with any LS parts that are worth what they charge. When I can get most parts brand new for not much more, some cases even cheaper.
 
can the cylinder head temp sensor cause overheating also? my fan is not kicking out enough power and this could be the hydraulic pump, but it also sounds like the sensor could be the problem. anybody with any knowledge on this? trying to keep from buying any additional parts
thnx
 
Suppose its possible. Those are easy enough to test with a VOM. Usually there are two, one for the guage, and another for the computer. They're cheap enough from Team Ford. $15 for the v8, possibly better than that with the LVC discount.
 
Mine never had a CEL because it was running just not running fast enough. I would try this:

In a controled area (i.e. your neighborhood) drive around the block or whatever and put the car under load....drive normal, A/C on high, stop and go driving though, and let the car over heat until it dings at you and the CEL comes on. Take the car home let it cool down, then have the codes checked.

On my issue if the A/C isn't on it will not overheat, so I could get it back to my dealer. When u read the codes it should point you in the right direction. hopefully this helps.
 
hey 5spd, unfortunately no codes come up when I do this. done it a couple times (not recommended, as letting ur car get that hot is never a good thing)
and no codes ever come up. are u gonna take urs to the stealership??
 
I know its not really advised to let your car overheat....but in our case trying to find this issue is kinda hard. I took my car to the dealership earlier this week, and finally got the issue resovled with a bad t/stat, and the hydrolic pump solenoid almost $800 in parts and labor.

The main problem was the pump not working at full power due to the bad soleniod. I guess it wasn't opening fully to allow the fan to run at full speed.

My fan was still working just not at full speed so I never got a CEL. Then when I first picked up the car after the t/stat was replaced, I was in ruch hour traffic with the A/C on full blast and it over heated fully and the dummy light came on a beeped at me then the CEL came on. First we thought it was just an air bubble in the system, but the car didn't overheat without the A/C on. so they checked the fan under load and it was the bad soleniod. I would take it to the dealer and see what they say, my warranty ran out, so cost me $98 for a diagnosis, but when they fixed it, they gave me a discount of about $120 on the fan pump.

First cost w/labor was $268 for the t/stat replacement.
Then normal price of pump replacement is $680, I bitched and got mine for $525

so all and all got the car fixed for about $800.

Probably could have done the work myself, but the labor wasn't really the cost, it was the parts...neways keep us updated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 278 (members: 1, guests: 277)
Back
Top