$1000 Rear Turbo build Thread

lol i just laughed my self :D, ill try some of those tips to track down the boost leaks. I think i know where there at anyways :)
 
All that rubber needs to go away. Those connections either need welded or reinforced silicone. Those clamps need to be swapped to T-bolt clamps. I understand this is a budget build, but this is where you can't skimp. Those home depot couplings won't hold, neither will those clamps under boost. You will end up blowing off one side or another every time.
 
Don't go over any speed bumps!!!! Or get any where near full suspension travel!
 
curious as to why the piping didnt just run down where the factory exhaust was?

since the car came with dual exhaust, the easiest thing to do would be to combine the two exhaust pipes into one (thicker pipe of course) right at the back of the motor since they have to be combined at some point to go into the single turbo, and then run the boost side piping right next to it where the now removed other exhaust pipe was, that way you wouldn't have to worry about any pipes hanging low.
 
your car is a mockery of what the lincoln ls can, should and was made to be.
 
centason said:
All that rubber needs to go away. Those connections either need welded or reinforced silicone. Those clamps need to be swapped to T-bolt clamps. I understand this is a budget build, but this is where you can't skimp. Those home depot couplings won't hold, neither will those clamps under boost. You will end up blowing off one side or another every time.
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you don't need t-bolts, plenty of high boost applications use worm clamps, there is almost no reason for buying the over priced t-clamps, but still it should be all welded aluminum tubing or stainless, that would be costly and not needed for the 5 pounds he may produce, and that intake pipe should have been run up the tunnel for the most part.
 
Where is his intake pipe 02? All I see is a filter on the inlet side of his turbo. Oh you mean his charge pipe, that's what it's called. Whether it be 5lbs or 50lbs T-clamps have more even surface pressure than a worm clamp and create less boost leaks and bothersome blow outs, plus worm clamps tend to fail prematurely. Hey what do I know? I'm new here. I haven't own 3 turbo charged cars in my life, and I never hand built two of them. Couldn't possibly know anything.:(
 
In order to properly keep a clamped connection together, the most commonly accepted process is to have a raised area right at the metal pipe opening. If you don't have access to a proper bead roller to create the raised area, it is a relatively simple process to make small raised lumps all around the opening by the use of the 'tack' provision on a MIG welder. It works for me!

KS
 
That filter looks like it has ZERO air flow... and that long run still looks like flex aluminium tubing (exhaust), no? Those are made with single strained aluminium crimped together, i cant imagine that holding any pressure at all.
 
1LoudLS said:
curious as to why the piping didnt just run down where the factory exhaust was?

since the car came with dual exhaust, the easiest thing to do would be to combine the two exhaust pipes into one (thicker pipe of course) right at the back of the motor since they have to be combined at some point to go into the single turbo, and then run the boost side piping right next to it where the now removed other exhaust pipe was, that way you wouldn't have to worry about any pipes hanging low.
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Like This:

ve6du9.jpg
 
That's a nice stainless setup on that car. I's that a pinch in the exhaust at the O2 sensor? Shadow? Intake charge should be as far away from the exhaust as possible, so the above pic is a great example. Silicone and T-Clamps, who would of thought...
 
centason said:
That's a nice stainless setup on that car. I's that a pinch in the exhaust at the O2 sensor? Shadow? Intake charge should be as far away from the exhaust as possible, so the above pic is a great example. Silicone and T-Clamps, who would of thought...
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I'll be honest I have no idea why you are acting like a cock...

he doesn't need to spend the money on t-clamps for that low boost, he can or should but its not needed, before he even gets that far he has way more work to fix issues. No one here said you don't know what you are doing, did they I must have missed them being a cock?!?!

I mean you are the best and only use the best materials so your ls must be crazy right
 
It's actually not that expensive and it's going to save him a lot of heartache from the Home Depot special. I'm not being a "cock", I've been through the problems, I know what issues he is already going to run into already. I'm trying to save him time and a huge headache. There is a lot of issues I see with his setup, but I'm not there to actually look and I'm not going to be judgmental. Worm clamps will stretch under pressure and are prone to backing off with vibration, where T-clamps aren't. I wouldn't want to be under my car once a week checking to see it all of my connections are good. I'd rather him have piece of mind. Boost is boost, whether it be low or high. It's still pressure exerted, and it will always take the path of least resistance. Eliminate those paths and you raise efficiency, lower turbulence, and create a more free flowing system. The more free flowing it is, the more power you can make with what you've got.
 
centason said:
Intake charge should be as far away from the exhaust as possible
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at what cost? having the boost side piping hanging too low puts it at a way higher risk of getting snagged on something and getting a hole ripped into the pipe (or just having the pipe get ripped smooth off) a two and a half inch (or bigger) pipe ran along the bottom of the car under the lowest point of the car is just asking for it, you would be much better off running both the exhaust and boost piping down the tunnel and up out of the way. as that example is a FWD car without a trans and drive shaft tunnel, there is much more room under the LS and the pipes dont have to be ran so close together that they are almost touching. the few degrees of heat soak you will get is more than worth the cost to protect all of the plumbing. if your really that worried about heat soak, you could also just heat wrap the exhaust piping, there is more than enough air flowing under the car while it is moving, and then just let the FMIC do its job.
 
That is true and I agree with you 100%, but the advantage of having a rear mount is not having a FMIC setup, due to that cool air underneath the car. Hence why STS kit never would come with an intercooler. You already get pressure drop from rear to front of anywhere from 1-4 psi. Why add another 1-2 psi of drop with a FMIC? What would that solve? A FMIC is only as efficient as the air charged coming into it. If it's too hot, it's only going to be a little less hot coming out. At what point does a FWD car compare to a RWD car when I comes to turbo setup? The turbo will either be at the front or back of the engine. If you look at the setup of a turbo engine the setup is set to force air to the intake and remove heat from the engine compartment. Look at the 7mgte. The intake pipe ran over the top of the exhaust. They would spank the LS of today, whether it'd be the 252, or 280hp variant. The car ran low 14s stock at 237hp at almost the same weight as the LS. Air flow is key. Again I'm not trying to be mean or get anyone pissed off here. I have gone through mild to wild setups, some with good numbers, some with horrible. Heat soak, no matter how much is bad, wrapped or not. If you have never owned a TC car then you will never know, doesn't include a SRT Neon. It's a Mitsu. Cammerfe, SupraSonic, and such have to experience as I do. I'm just trying to help the kid out here. But because I don't have 4,000 posts I can't be knowledgable. Come over to my website where I'm a Mod. I'm sure you will get treated with equal respect.
 
No one is talking to you with disrespect and post counts don mean :q:q:q:q and neither does being a mod. But simple thermal dynamics and understanding that the air is moving so fast through the pipe it Is not going to pick up much heat from the exhaust if it was you would burn your hand if you touched the tunnel which isn't moving rapidly past the exhaust. So the air which is not moving which is only the outer most molecules touching the pipe may be warmer and I will gladly have a little warmer air than my intake piping laying on the ground behind me. I know I'm not the turbo genius here but I think warm air will out perform no air maybe I am wrong if so let me know.
 
centason said:
but the advantage of having a rear mount is not having a FMIC setup, due to that cool air underneath the car.
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actually remote turbo setup only provides partial cooling compared to having an intercooler, and while some motors may be able to handle boost better(probably because they were designed for FI from the start) with the LS having such a high CR motor to begin with, you would have to be crazy to think that the pressure drop is not worth the much colder air, the turbo will easily make way more pressure than this motor will ever be able to handle without going crazy with all of the internals (again we are talking about a budget build here ) why wouldn't you trade off some of the pressure that you cant even use to provide a much more safer setup up for the motor?

centason said:
A FMIC is only as efficient as the air charged coming into it. If it's too hot, it's only going to be a little less hot coming out.
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if that was true, and intercoolers didn't do anything, why would they be out there? did you use intercoolers? i'm sure you did because they make a huge difference. im also pretty sure what makes a FMIC efficient is the size (surface area) and its ability to exchange heat. if you have aire that is "too hot" coming into it, you use math and science to figure out how big it needs to be to get the air charge cool enough.

centason said:
Hence why STS kit never would come with an intercooler.
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i would expect "never would" means that some thing actually would never, with never being the key word (never basically means less that sometimes), and since this is an OPTION that STS offers, i would expect it to come with an intercooler SOME of the time

http://www.ststurbo.com/parts___accessories1
"Intercoolers Available! Call today for your application"





oh yea and just for sh1ts and giggles, can somebody tell me what kind of clamp is at the top of their accessories page?
"Finish Off Your Pipe Work With These STS Logo'd Clamps!

The Same Ones We Here At STS Use! "


and while you are right, you dont have to have 4000 post to be knowledgeable, however one of the benifits of being around for a little while is that some of us remember things like one of the best turbo setup ups on an LS was done buy a guy that used a lot of STS products at his shop, and with his remote turbo he still found a use in using intercooler up front.



I'm not trying to sh!t in your corflakes, i'm just not sure what good yelling at the OP about what kind of clamps he is using, have you seen his lists of supply's, its not worth it, when anybody starts with going down to home depot, there is no reason to try to convince anyone out of what of any of their parts are.
 
actually, looking back at STS's website, it looks like most of their bolt on turbo kits come with FMIC's. while i did not go thourgh and look at all of them, i did click on the CTS-V, all the Vette's and all of the Pony's, and all of their kits included one.

again, i'm not saying that any one who does not have 4000 post is in any way not knowledgeable, its just hard to know how knowledgeable somebody is when some of the things they say are simply as wrong as wrong can be.
 
I do see on the Squires website that they do offer an intercooler for most applications now, so I stand corrected. I haven't looked at that website in almost 5 years. They used to not offer an intercooler option. So you are correct. Yes I did use intercoolers in all my applications because all off the piping was under the hood along with the turbo. I do understand the math and all that goes with it. The hotter the air the bigger the intercooler. The bigger the intercooler the more PSI drop you will have across the surface area, on top of the drop you will already have from back to front charging the pipe. If there are boost leaks, the longer it's going to take to charge the system, which means the longer it's going to take for boost to come on. Now throw an intercooler in the mix and you're going to wait even longer for boost. I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest, and I do apologize if I've rubbed anyone the wrong way. I just don't want this guy blowing his engine. The motor is tired already and I am just worried those split fractured rods are going to do just that.
 
Methanol Intercooling

An entirely possible option is to use a 'chemical' intercooler. A Hobbs switch-triggered spray of methanol into the so-called 'cold-side' pipe after the MAF will do wonders for cooling and in addition will provide a richer mixture. A mixture richer from methanol is a good thing.

KS
 
chemical cooling would be great for a track car where your only using it for a short time, but I would think it would get old having to keep one more tank full in the LS on a street car. i definitely wouldn't want to on if it was a DD
 
I don't think CyrusMainTea gets on much at all anymore.....

But who knows maybe he's hard at work making Chinese turbo stir fry
 
Another thread where something promised turns into nothing.
 
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