2000 LS V8 has rattling and knocking sound

[Broseph]

As joegr said, very unlikely for issues in the lower half of the engine. THE engine i put in my car was hit in the driver side valve cover. The secondary chain popped of the sprocket and we were hoping the fuel cut off switch kicked in before the valves hit. We were wrong.

The exhaust cam had split in half at the first bearing, and the first cylinder had two bent exhaust valves. I used the camshaft out of my old engine, had the valves done and other cylinders checked, it was fine. Did all the timing chaines, tensioners etc. Only reason I did this was because the engine had 37,000 miles on it and cost $400.

The engine runs solid, if the 3.9 can go through that without a bearing problem, then I'm pretty sure you're okay. Just tell them to button it up after the timing stuff, pay them, and never go back there again.

Unless you ran it on low oil all the time, overheated the car a lot, or ran the crap out of it, then the bearings are fine.

 

[chocolat1701]

do a complete timing belt job now since its already out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item563b244db8&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item5197371c5c&vxp=mtr

 

[LS4me]

do a complete timing belt job now since its already out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item563b244db8&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item5197371c5c&vxp=mtr

The LS uses chains, not belts.

IMHO, your problem is/was the tensioners. As you seem to want to spend money (no offense intended), get the chains and all tensioners (primary and secondary) replaced.

 

[Tardelli1957]

The bottom end always had clean oil and after hearing all the posts on here I feel really comfortable that the bottom and should be ok. Now my only question is does anyone think I have to do a valve job.is there a chance that the bells hit the Pistons or does it sounds okay. When I drove it I actually thought it was driving okay other than the noise. Any thoughts

The LS uses chains, not belts.

IMHO, your problem is/was the tensioners. As you seem to want to spend money (no offense intended), get the chains and all tensioners (primary and secondary) replaced.

 

[joegr]

The bottom end always had clean oil and after hearing all the posts on here I feel really comfortable that the bottom and should be ok. Now my only question is does anyone think I have to do a valve job.is there a chance that the bells hit the Pistons or does it sounds okay. When I drove it I actually thought it was driving okay other than the noise. Any thoughts

A compression and leak down test would tell you if there was any damage there. It would be easier to do if the engine were still in the car. I'm sorry, but I'd never get anyone that couldn't tell the difference between rod knock and chain slop to do this work.

 

[Tardelli1957]

We again the people posting on here are smarter than the idiot repair shops. The problem was with another part that broke with the timing chain assembly. I ordered a complete new timing chain assembly and they put it in after they stupidly removed the whole engine from the car because they thought it was rod knock. They put the engine back in after replacing the timing chain components. But of course its not fixed perfectly as this repaid shop are no experts. I had a rough ending with a service engine light constantly on. They said to replace the broken brake booster as it was very bad. I got one from the junk yard and it works good. The engine no longer shows a service engine light but the engine is still running a bit rough and sounds like its missing or running with one less cylinder. It runs like it did when I had a few coil packs that needed to be replaced. But I now have a no heat issue as of course it can never be fixed perfectly with this car. Can someone tell me what to look for to fix the no heat issue as they said it was electronics and not anything to do with leaks.

My second question to the experts here is what should I look for to get this car running smooth. Should I first change plugs or should I replace coil packs one at a time.

 

[LS4me]

You can start with the coils (the LS doesn't use a coil pack; it uses coil on plug) and plugs.

No heat.... Thermostat? What's the engine temp? However.......

Who knows what the repair shop did......

Things can never be perfect in any machine.... My LSes are all running well and have been since I've owned them.

 

[joegr]

... Can someone tell me what to look for to fix the no heat issue as they said it was electronics and not anything to do with leaks.

My second question to the experts here is what should I look for to get this car running smooth. Should I first change plugs or should I replace coil packs one at a time.

No, it's not electronics. It's almost certainly cooling system leak(s) and/or incorrect bleeding of the system. The only real exception would be if they didn't reconnect the aux pump or damaged it.

Replace all the spark plugs and all the COPs (Coil-On-Plug, not coil packs) at the same time. To do it any other way is to damage more parts and have to replace the same parts over again.

 

[Tardelli1957]

Joeger,
I appreciate yours and others responses. I got some replacement coils as the code shows misfire on number 7. I will also replace all of the spark plugs to go with it. But as to the no heat issue, I notice that more hot or warm air blows from the right passenger side than the drivers side. Is this the DCCV that has been mentioned. Is there something I can play around with that will get this working before I have to replace any parts. Which part would it be judging from what I said so far.

No, it's not electronics. It's almost certainly cooling system leak(s) and/or incorrect bleeding of the system. The only real exception would be if they didn't reconnect the aux pump or damaged it.

Replace all the spark plugs and all the COPs (Coil-On-Plug, not coil packs) at the same time. To do it any other way is to damage more parts and have to replace the same parts over again.

 

[joegr]

Yes, it could be the DCCV. If it is, you'll have to replace it. You might try correctly bleeding the cooling system to the letter of the procedure. If that does fix it, it will only be temporary.

 

[Telco]

I'm inclined to not suspect the DCCV yet, since the engine was removed from the car and I assume the heat worked fine before they pulled it. The bleed should solve his problem.

 

[joegr]

I'm inclined to not suspect the DCCV yet, since the engine was removed from the car and I assume the heat worked fine before they pulled it. The bleed should solve his problem.

I agree, but he seems insistent on going after it and ignoring the cooling system/bleed probabilities, as well as the best practice advise to replace all the coils.

 

[Telco]

I agree, but he seems insistent on going after it and ignoring the cooling system/bleed probabilities, as well as the best practice advise to replace all the coils.

It just takes some people a little longer. I mean, look at my posting record here. Once he sees the cost of a new DCCV, he'll be willing to try rebleeding the car according to the directions. Of course, I'd also suggest that he check that all the cooling system clamps are correctly installed, especially that hard to get one for the degas bottle that sits behind the engine. From the sound of the garage he uses they may have half-assed that clamp, letting air into the system.

 

[joegr]

... From the sound of the garage he uses they may have half-assed that clamp, letting air into the system.

I think that it's likely they did this and more.

 

[Tardelli1957]

I think you are right. The heating and air-conditioning were working ok before the engine was pulled and thats why its maybe not the DCCV. But the air-conditioner compressor is also not working . Can you tell me exactly how to bleed the cooling system to a T with detailed instructions

 

[joegr]

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/

 

[Telco]

But the air-conditioner compressor is also not working .

Make sure they plugged the compressor back in when they put the engine back in.

 

[Tardelli1957]

Well I replaced coil 7 and all the other coils on that side if the engine as well as 7 out if 8 spark plugs due to one if the new plugs breaking when it fell on the floor . The service engine light has now gone away by itself. But unfortunately the car still sounds tough and runs and sounds like its running on one cylinder with a slight hesitation just like a bad coil would do. Does anyone have any suggestions. I've recorded the engine sound.

 

[SlickLS]

Well I replaced coil 7 and all the other coils on that side if the engine as well as 7 out if 8 spark plugs due to one if the new plugs breaking when it fell on the floor . The service engine light has now gone away by itself. But unfortunately the car still sounds tough and runs and sounds like its running on one cylinder with a slight hesitation just like a bad coil would do. Does anyone have any suggestions. I've recorded the engine sound.

With the engine running, press on each injector to ensure they are on tight. Sometimes they loosen up from moving around things when replacing coils & plugs.

 

[Tardelli1957]

It looks like it was coil number 4 that was the culprit. I replaced it and its running much better. Still have intermittent heat though. Air conditioner compressor does not turn on.any suggestions

 

[joegr]

1. Replace the remaining three coils. Why do people fight this?
2. Maybe they didn't correctly evacuate and recharge the AC system...

 

[jjcool00]

Coils are like brakes, you wouldn't just replace one side would you? Replace em all, just like you'd replace your brakes on both wheels in the front and not just the left. Even if one side wore down a little less than the other. Chances are all coils are bad or maybe 2, 5, 8 are bad but since there's no way to really detect a marginal coil ($$$) - replace em all, and plugs at the same time - always.

 

[Tardelli1957]

I replaced the other coils and I would say the car is now running 97% smooth. I think it might have an exhoust leak coming from bottom of car. But right now the frustration lies with trying to finally fix the normal heat issue. As has been posted many times before on these forums, I am getting some warm air on the passenger side, but cold there on the drivers side. It's getting very frustrating especially now that it's getting very cold. I know that people think its the DCCV , but it seems that the hoses are all hot going into firewall. Should I just get a new DCCV valve and bite the bullet. My air conditioner compressor is also not turning on. I DONT see any blown fuse number 1 or any other fuses that are blown.

QUOTE=jjcool00;2037325846]Coils are like brakes, you wouldn't just replace one side would you? Replace em all, just like you'd replace your brakes on both wheels in the front and not just the left. Even if one side wore down a little less than the other. Chances are all coils are bad or maybe 2, 5, 8 are bad but since there's no way to really detect a marginal coil ($$$) - replace em all, and plugs at the same time - always.[/QUOTE]

 

[Telco]

Have you bled the cooling system yet, because these cars are so sensitive to air in the system that even a little bit will keep the heat from working correctly and because you used a shop that pulled the engine out thus introducing an incredible amount of air into the cooling system and as they half-assed everything else they did they likely didn't even attempt to bleed the system?

 

[Tardelli1957]

I don't think its air in the system. All hoses on the car are hot including the ones going into the firewall. I let air out through the valve in the hose and added some more coolant yet its still got no heat. The compressor for the air conditioner is also not turning on. Does this still sound like DCCV valve. Please help.

Have you bled the cooling system yet, because these cars are so sensitive to air in the system that even a little bit will keep the heat from working correctly and because you used a shop that pulled the engine out thus introducing an incredible amount of air into the cooling system and as they half-assed everything else they did they likely didn't even attempt to bleed the system?