2001 Lincoln LS8 in Virginia (757)

FDR said:
There is some sequence of events which can lead to the car locking itself after you get out with the car running. Judging by Kid's picture showing the radio and AC are on, I'm guessing that's what happened, as opposed to intentionally locking the car.
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I merely got in my car with my key, and was heading to the rear door to place things and the door closed. Now I'm not sure how it locked but I do know I only opened the door, put the key in the ignition, didn't start it, and went to the back door.

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
 
FDR said:
I've been thinking about a brake-interrupt circuit on the run circuit, manually engaged with a switch, controlling a normally-closed relay in the Run circuit. You hit the brake, car turns off, chipless key won't restart it.
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its called a remote start, with Pit Stop mode, you press the button, then remove the key, the car will stay running. lock the door and go do what you need to. as long as no one has pressed the break pedal or the preset time has not expired, the car will still be running.
 
What are the odds that's what the momentary button is next to the toggle I believe controls the transponder bypass? I'd test it, but my RS doesn't power the starter anymore... I figured it was a programming button. I still don't know what unit I have other than being labeled DEI. But good to know it's something that's been done before
 
I had a Ford Focus lock me out at work after I'd started it. My buddy runs a wrecker service and got escorted into work to open the door.He wedged a crack at the top of the door and pushed the power window switch with a rod.
Since then,I have that habit FDR said..........if you leave it running, open the window by habit. I have this habit. Lots of people bringing their cars to me only have one key. don-ohio :)^)
 
FDR said:
What are the odds that's what the momentary button is next to the toggle I believe controls the transponder bypass? I'd test it, but my RS doesn't power the starter anymore... I figured it was a programming button. I still don't know what unit I have other than being labeled DEI. But good to know it's something that's been done before
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with Directed/DEI systems (really doesn't matter the model other than programming the option or bypass since they have been pretty much the same for the last 15 years) there is usually a small black push button (used to disarm alarms, or change programming options) and a small chrome valet switch (disables only the RS function)


this is the programming button
8631_1.jpg

and this is the valet switch
128000026_viper-python-dei-valet-programming-toggle-switch-alarm-.jpg


the transponder bypass should not have any buttons that are easy to get to, depending on the model, it may have a programming button on the bypass itself.




when you say that "the RS doesn't power the starter anymore" do you mean that when activated that the parking light flash (only) once then all of the dash lights come on for 2-3 seconds, and then nothing happens after that?

because if that is the case, then that sounds like the transponder bypass is either not working, or needs to be reprogrammed to the car (if it is a learning bypass). it could also be a bypass that has a key in it, and if you (or any owner prior to yourself) have ever had the dealer program new keys and didn't remove that key to also have it programmed at the same time.

if its either of the last two, programming should be pretty easy of you do have two valid working keys and one of them is not a clone of the other.

8631_1.jpg


128000026_viper-python-dei-valet-programming-toggle-switch-alarm-.jpg
 
Yes, the lights flash quickly and the car turns goes to Run, then nothing happens. I think it stays in Run. IIRC the exterior/dash lights flash with the switch in either position, but I haven't tried in a long time. Yes, those are the two switches I have. I remember I did something and that's when the RS stopped working, but I don't remember what. Programmed keys myself? Unplugged battery? Dealer wiped all the keys and started fresh? You can tell RS is not very important to me. Note: It did work when I got the car

The On/Off plate for the valet switch fell off before I got the car. I recently found it under the carpet. It sounds like maybe I had the switch reversed in that when the alarm does *not* go off, RS is turned off, and when it *does* go off, RS is on, but the transponder bypass is no longer programmed. Maybe. I've turned the ignition to Start with non-programmed keys but I don't remember them setting off the alarm. I don't know if the car "knows" the ignition is turned VS the ignition being hotwired
 
FDR said:
I don't know if the car "knows" the ignition is turned VS the ignition being hotwired
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no it doesn't, with the exception of the LS has more ignition/accessory wires than any RS system come with, so extra relays are needed. and if the extra relays were not used, then some of the cars functions may not work (or you will get a CEL). the car also has a keysense wire that knows if the key has been inserted or not, but with the LS, this wire doesn't get interfaced with unless you want to keep the easy entry/exit feature working normally when RS'ing the car.




next time you have it apart, take a look and find the bypass and see if you can get a part number off of it, then if you would like, I can help you to get it reprogrammed. also if the part number is 555U or 556UW, there should be a key in it, remove the screws, remove the key, then use your two valid keys (if you have two) to reprogram the third key, then just reassemble and enjoy a working RS!
 
1LoudLS said:
no it doesn't, with the exception of the LS has more ignition/accessory wires than any RS system come with, so extra relays are needed. and if the extra relays were not used, then some of the cars functions may not work
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I know there's a bank of relays behind the headlight switch along with what I'm pretty sure is the RS unit itself. And yeah, my Advancetrac doesn't work when I use RS. How about I just take a quick trip to Michigan and give it to you?

Thanks for the help. Do I need the heat or AC ready to go when I get in the car? No. Do I like having a warm, ready-to-rev engine when I get in? Yes. Yes I do.
 
Yall are having this discussion on my thread? Lol cmon now..this is my car/build thread. :sob:

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
 
How far along on your cooling system problems are you,KidL? Progress report? don-ohio :)^)
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
Yall are having this discussion on my thread? Lol cmon now..this is my car/build thread. :sob:
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When someone with a lot of knowledge meets someone looking for that knowledge, things get out of hand. I already decided to start a new thread lol
 
FDR said:
When someone with a lot of knowledge meets someone looking for that knowledge, things get out of hand. I already decided to start a new thread lol
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Oh I was just poking fun lol.

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
 
I'm at a loss for words. Are you seriously going to ride that around town like that?
 
BigRigLS said:
I'm at a loss for words. Are you seriously going to ride that around town like that?
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Lol, if you heard my two previous cars, then you would know my answer.

However, I can't ride anywhere with two flat tires..lol so for right now it sits on the jack stands its on.
 
One of those tires the one you patched?

What are you planning on doing about the downstream sensors? Surely you understand it's going to throw a code unless you zero it out.
 
BigRigLS said:
One of those tires the one you patched?

What are you planning on doing about the downstream sensors? Surely you understand it's going to throw a code unless you zero it out.
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Yea, the patched one included. So i'm just going to replace them both this week after pay just like I planned. Well, the sensors are still connected to the car. So I'm thinking Zip tie them out of the way and behind something shielding them from water. Idk, I'm second guessing that last statement. The CEL will stay on as long as my car is overheating because I keep removing connections and such, so that's pretty much set until its fixed. However, I do wonder, Can I remove the sensors and still run the exact same as I am now? Given the car is running crappy, would the lack of sensors do the same, or would that put me in a serious limp mode?
 
I remember when I took my cats off to repair them after they got clogged up.

started it up and it sounded so cool in our high ceiling bays... for about two minutes, then I realized that the extreme loudness and harshness didn't sound anywhere near as cool as a built small or big block that is crazy loud and actually fast.


also I don't know what was more embarrassing, driving around a broke ass sounding car watching all of the people I drove by laughing or shaking their heads, or getting pulled over twice driving three miles to a different shop to have it welded back together.


either way, was happy to get the flows back on and have people tell me how good or mean my cars sounds... cant wait to hear it after it goes back under the knife (or the sawzall to be more accurate) to get a pretty healthy Magnaflow muff and all new piping!
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
The CEL will stay on as long as my car is overheating because I keep removing connections and such, so that's pretty much set until its fixed.
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what he is saying is that even after you fix you're overheating issue, your CEL will always be on with or without sensors unless you have the car tuned and have the tuner shut off the sensor.
 
1LoudLS said:
what he is saying is that even after you fix you're overheating issue, your CEL will always be on with or without sensors unless you have the car tuned and have the tuner shut off the sensor.
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But what I find weird is that some days when I drive, I have no CEL... ALL DAY...and others its intermittent, others, its all day.

So, then can I just remove my cats and sensors period?
 
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