2001 LS V8 does it have the DATC Test tools?

DaleGrib said:
I meant to say I have replaced the water pump as well I replaced all parts that were in the coolant system I just forgot to list it.
Click to expand...
I have to agree with 04 Sport ...with all the rubber hoses and plastic on this car ...your best bet is to dye that coolant Dale....I heard some ppl on my Facebook group having to bleed there LS seven times before it burped out all the damn air
 
AmsterDutch said:
Did all the rubber hoses get connected perfectly on both aux pump and DCCV? Those hoses are a major PITA to reconnect? Did you bleed the car with the nose pointing downward
Click to expand...
I am not sure how he did the work all I know is the guy had a lift so I am sure he had much easier access to get all the hoses back on. I have not lost any coolant I have said that a few times so I have no leaks that are at least visible. The car overheated and I was a idiot and drained out the coolant system the car might not have had any air in the lines when it overheated. The air could have came from what I did and the coolant I added back in but it was bleed again yesterday at the shop. The car has not overheated since the first day it happened. I have drove it and did about everything I can do to duplicate the issue and it's not coming back. I suspect I have a bad coolant system part somewhere as I have never had to add any coolant back in the car it has stayed at the same level. The coolant level has always sit in the same place at the max line like all my other fluids so I can keep a good eye on them.
 
Yes, you can unplug the aux pump without any real problems other than low/no heat at idle.
No, the aux pump couldn't really help if the water pump is bad.
 
joegr said:
After several heat and cool cycles, you will know if the air bubble comes back, you have a leak.
I had a weird leak on my 04. I could even see the leaked coolant, but couldn't tell where it was coming from. I pressure tested it cold, hot, in between, engine running, engine not running, ... It never showed a leak and the pressure held. (Leak was a seal between the head and the crossover tube.) I relate this just to say that it can pass a pressure test and still have a leak
Click to expand...
I'm thinking this might possibly be a place where my 06' is leaking Its not overheating but I'm losing a little coolant and have to add a tiny bit every three weeks?
 
AmsterDutch said:
I'm thinking this might possibly be a place where my 06' is leaking Its not overheating but I'm losing a little coolant and have to add a tiny bit every three weeks?
Click to expand...

It's possible. I had no overheating either. Apparently, I didn't clean residue of the old seal off well enough. Anyway, after that I put some Tack and Seal on the seal for good measure.
 
@joegr if my dccv is defective it could cause my overheating issue right? I know I have seen many threads of even OEM ones being defective. I am still leaning to say I don't have a leak cause of the fact the coolant level has never dropped. I know I had air in my system after this last flush so I am trying to narrow the search down to which part could be failing. Also Bosch is who makes the motorcraft one right? I know my warranty is up on it cause of when I bought it so will be forced to buy another one so if Bosch is as good as motorcraft or if they are the ones who make the motorcraft part I think I can get a better price with Bosch.
 
Last edited:
DaleGrib said:
@joegr if my dccv is defective it could cause my overheating issue right? ...
Click to expand...

Okay. We keep dancing around this, and I'm not getting through.

No. A DCCV problem will not and can not cause overheating unless the DCCV is spraying coolant everywhere.

Point blank. There is no way that any kind of climate control problem can cause overheating.

An engine cooling problem can cause climate control problems, but not the other way around.

Your overheating problem is not in any way shape or form related to or caused by the climate control or any of its parts, unless they are leaking.
 
joegr said:
Okay. We keep dancing around this, and I'm not getting through.

No. A DCCV problem will not and can not cause overheating unless the DCCV is spraying coolant everywhere.

Point blank. There is no way that any kind of climate control problem can cause overheating.

An engine cooling problem can cause climate control problems, but not the other way around.

Your overheating problem is not in any way shape or form related to or caused by the climate control or any of its parts, unless they are leaking.
Click to expand...
OK Thanks. Then will have to keep looking for a problem. Gonna try to find a shop that will actually know what they are doing which is gonna be hard around here.
 
Last edited:
Wow, I just really can't communicate, apparently. I think I am going to give up on this - last try, 1002nd time.

The LS does not have an air temperature blend door. There is no actuator that controls temperature. None! Air temperature on the LS is controlled by the DCCV, nothing else. Am I getting clearer?

The LS does have air direction control doors, which are controlled by actuators. Your complaint was air temperature, not air direction. If your complaint should change to being that the air is coming out in the wrong place, then you might need to replace a particular air door actuator.
 
joegr said:
Wow, I just really can't communicate, apparently. I think I am going to give up on this - last try, 1002nd time.

The LS does not have an air temperature blend door. There is no actuator that controls temperature. None! Air temperature on the LS is controlled by the DCCV, nothing else. Am I getting clearer?

The LS does have air direction control doors, which are controlled by actuators. Your complaint was air temperature, not air direction. If your complaint should change to being that the air is coming out in the wrong place, then you might need to replace a particular air door actuator.
Click to expand...

Was just showing you what the person was referring to dude why the attitude? I linked you to a part on my car and said does this not go on my car? I know this is not going solve my problem I was just trying to clarify what they were talking about regardless if right or wrong. I am sure it would not help my problem either but geez dude come on. I know do ask some stupid questions at times and I am sorry about that I am not quite in my best mind these days.
 
Last edited:
joegr said:
No problem. I'll stay out of it.
Click to expand...
Was not asking you to stay out of it by any means.... was just trying to clarify what they were talking about..... I know they were wrong but I was looking at all the cooling and coolant system parts so I could get a better understanding. But sorry for asking if a part went on my car I guess that is uncalled for on my part o_O
 
Been a while since I've been on here being my 06 is out of service... but... Couple of questions.

when you drive, are you gentle on it, or do you do semi-regular 6500 RPM pulls? Reason I ask is if the engine never gets any speed in it, the water pump, main one, may or may not shove enough water around to kick all the air out.

If you're driving around with the radio off and the fan down low, do you hear any gurgling sounds like water moving with air in the cooling system?

You say the coolant level never changes, I'm assuming you have it right at the fill line, right? Have you tried overfilling it at bit? Like up to the bottom of the wings in the coolant bottle? I replaced about every piece on my 06's cooling system, the DCCV twice, and the first time or two I got tired of screwing with it so I just loaded it up and it worked the air out with a couple of full throttle passes.

If you're not overheating, but your heat is sporadic in the cabin, just to isolate problems, you could disconnect the connector on the DCCV and drive it for a while. With no power applied to the coils, the valve should be wide open giving 100% heat all the time (that's how I know when mine failed)... so in your case, and admittedly this time of year it would suck, drive it with the heat theoretically at 100% and see if it dips out. You should have 100% heat. If that is true for a day or so, (or however long it would normally take to see not 100% heat a couple times), then reconnect the DCCV connector. If you start losing heat again, then either the DCCV is screwed up, or, the controller commanding it is AFU.

Another thing to try is park the car overnight with the nose as far downhill as you can possibly get, might get some air out.

Just a couple of thoughts.
 
DaleGrib said:
I think this is what the guy was referring to https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...r-blend-door-actuator-604-264/469711_756442_0 So this does not go on my car ? I might have forgot to say the word actuator. But either way this would not cause the overheating I agree on that part.
Click to expand...

The economy level "ultra power" brand has all of the "blend door actuators" listed on Rockauto with descriptions of the actual function of each (vent selector doors). They have a matching pat number 604264 listed as the output door for the panel/dash vents
2002 LINCOLN LS 3.9L V8 Heater Blend Door Actuator | RockAuto
 
kleetus said:
Been a while since I've been on here being my 06 is out of service... but... Couple of questions.

when you drive, are you gentle on it, or do you do semi-regular 6500 RPM pulls? Reason I ask is if the engine never gets any speed in it, the water pump, main one, may or may not shove enough water around to kick all the air out.

If you're driving around with the radio off and the fan down low, do you hear any gurgling sounds like water moving with air in the cooling system?

You say the coolant level never changes, I'm assuming you have it right at the fill line, right? Have you tried overfilling it at bit? Like up to the bottom of the wings in the coolant bottle? I replaced about every piece on my 06's cooling system, the DCCV twice, and the first time or two I got tired of screwing with it so I just loaded it up and it worked the air out with a couple of full throttle passes.

If you're not overheating, but your heat is sporadic in the cabin, just to isolate problems, you could disconnect the connector on the DCCV and drive it for a while. With no power applied to the coils, the valve should be wide open giving 100% heat all the time (that's how I know when mine failed)... so in your case, and admittedly this time of year it would suck, drive it with the heat theoretically at 100% and see if it dips out. You should have 100% heat. If that is true for a day or so, (or however long it would normally take to see not 100% heat a couple times), then reconnect the DCCV connector. If you start losing heat again, then either the DCCV is screwed up, or, the controller commanding it is AFU.

Another thing to try is park the car overnight with the nose as far downhill as you can possibly get, might get some air out.

Just a couple of thoughts.
Click to expand...

Very Gentle on it when I drive. I go fast don't get me wrong, but when needing to go fast I get there not red lining my car :p (every once in a while I get down on it to clean stuff up as it's good to do time to time)
I have it right at the max cold level. I have pretty much been riding and parked with the radio off since this occurred. The only time I have heard any gurgling sounds is when the car actually overheated and it was the degas bottle bubbling from how hot the car got but other than that no strange sounds. I can try that on the DCCV for sure, thanks for the suggestion. I can always get 90 degree heat to work pretty good 99% of the time, it always seems to be great in the center two vents and a little less stream comes out the drivers and passengers end vents. Where I live is pretty flat so the parking downhill will be next to impossible to accomplish.
 
DaleGrib said:
I meant to say I have replaced the water pump as well I replaced all parts that were in the coolant system I just forgot to list it.
Click to expand...
Kind of seems like a head gasket might be placed on wrong. That would block a couple passages and not let the air escape and cause an over heat condition
 
jimmyjames said:
Kind of seems like a head gasket might be placed on wrong. That would block a couple passages and not let the air escape and cause an over heat condition
Click to expand...
This is a. Classic (Air in the cooling system) but if you really want to RIP the whe engine apart and replace the head gasket go for it ....sheesh
 
Just an update on part of my issue. I noticed my DCCV fuse was blown... So I will assume my heat issue is DCCV related. I know this is not gonna cause my car to overheat but it very well could be part of my strange heat issue and sure hoping that it is. I went ahead and placed a order for a new one today so once that comes in and I swap it out I can continue to troubleshoot my overheating issue. I don't feel the need to run the car with a chance of that thing shorting and causing other electrical issues in the car. I know it's not 100% likely but maybe the dccv shorting is causing my FTP sensor to fail. As I have been chasing that one a long time as well. I guess one can only hope but not expect a miracle lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 277 (members: 1, guests: 276)
Back
Top