2002 Lincoln LS V8 Cranks but Won't Start

The fuse, relay and diode all look great. I took the black cover off the top of the pump. There are some corrosion spots. I'm not sure if that's normal. Attached is a picture.

image.jpg
 
You need to test for power at the fuel pump. A test light would actually be better for this than a meter since it would prove that the circuit could provide some current at least.

Anyway, measure between pins 2 and 4, green/orange and black/red. You should have power there for a second or two when you turn the key to run.
 
How do I know which pins are which? I don't see any colors or numbers?

If I could get a test light, how would I use it to perform the test?

Many Thanks!
 
Attached is a picture of my multimeter. I'm a novice, so if it's possible, be very specific. I don't want to fry anything.

Also, I read about placing a paper-clip on the back of the harness, so not to damage the female prongs. Is this necessary?

Many Thanks!

photo.jpg
 
I pulled back some covering behind the harness and saw some colors that I followed back to the female prongs.

I lightly touched the multimeter leads to the green/orange and black/red female prongs. The multimeter read 11.90, both with the key in the OFF and ON position.

Earlier, I also felt the relay with my hand and heard and felt it clicking as the key was moved from the OFF position to the ON position.
 
moe said:
I pulled back some covering behind the harness and saw some colors that I followed back to the female prongs.

I lightly touched the multimeter leads to the green/orange and black/red female prongs. The multimeter read 11.90, both with the key in the OFF and ON position.

Earlier, I also felt the relay with my hand and heard and felt it clicking as the key was moved from the OFF position to the ON position.
Click to expand...

This is why you need a test light. To see if it can actually source current. The best way to do it would be to measure while the connector is plugged into the fuel pump, but you would have to cut into the insulation to do that.

If you are handy enough, you can rig your own test light using a backup light bulb or turn signal bulb or similar.
 
When I get the test light, which color wire is the power feed that I should be testing? Also which color should I be testing for a bad ground?

Many Thanks!
 
moe said:
When I get the test light, which color wire is the power feed that I should be testing? Also which color should I be testing for a bad ground?

Many Thanks!
Click to expand...

At this point, do not test between either of the wires and ground. Only test between the two wire, one lead on one wire and the other lead on the other wire. Is that what you were doing with the meter?
 
joegr said:
At this point, do not test between either of the wires and ground. Only test between the two wire, one lead on one wire and the other lead on the other wire. Is that what you were doing with the meter?
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I did. But when I get the test light, I'm assuming I'm going to do two tests on the power connector that feeds the fuel pump.

1) I would touch the test light probe on the main feed in the wiring connector that connects to the fuel pump and clip the test light alligator clip on a stud ground, right?

2) To test for a good ground, I would put test light probe on the ground wire in the wiring connector that connects to the fuel pump and clip the test light alligator clip on a stud ground, right?

So my question is, on the fuel pump wiring connector, which color is the main feed and which color is the ground?

Many Thanks!
 
So I got the test light. It only lights up on the green/orange wire and when the key is turned to the RUN position. However, it stays lit up. It only goes off when I turned the key back to the OFF position. I get no light on any other wire.
 
Test 2 as described would do nothing at all. Test 1 would only give you partial info.

The test you need to do is to connect the light between the two wires to the fuel pump. If that test fails, then we can talk about how to test the positive lead and how to test the negative one. Please test only between the two wires now.
 
moe said:
So I got the test light. It only lights up on the green/orange wire and when the key is turned to the RUN position. However, it stays lit up. It only goes off when I turned the key back to the OFF position. I get no light on any other wire.
Click to expand...

As I have said several times, you must connect it between the two wires to get any meaningful info. The feed to the LS fuel pump is complicated and both positive and negative leads get switched at different times. You must test across the two to know if it is working correctly.
 
Thanks for all of your help joegr.
I was able to do exactly what you said with the pump plugged in and the light did come on for 2 seconds and then it went off. What's next?
 
moe said:
Thanks for all of your help joegr.
I was able to do exactly what you said with the pump plugged in and the light did come on for 2 seconds and then it went off. What's next?
Click to expand...

Looks like you have a bad fuel pump (still assuming that you aren't hearing it run, it is pretty quiet). If you are not certain about it, you could check fuel pressure.
 
Ok, thanks. Yes, I'm definitely not hearing it.

Do you think a novice can replace a fuel pump on a 2002 LS? I've read some tutorials and it doesn't look too bad.

Would you recommend I get the replacement pump at my Ford dealer or is someplace like Advance ok?

Many Thanks!
 
You can get it for less. It is not at all hard to change yourself.
 
Hi guys,

I'm a little confused on the part number. Is it just part 9275A? Could someone clarify?

Many Thanks!
 
moe said:
Hi guys,

I'm a little confused on the part number. Is it just part 9275A? Could someone clarify?

Many Thanks!
Click to expand...

That's kind of like a Ford generic number for that kind of fuel pump. That number combined with the year and model of your car is enough to get the right pump, but be warned that it might also apply to other cars and years and would be for a different pump in that case.

Most of the actual part number is **4Z-9H307-BB or **4Z-9H307-BA. This is from this site: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/Page_...isvinskip=&Attributes=37656,40901,30925,22102

They like to hide the first two digits.
 
Thanks that helps a lot.

I'd like to change the fuel filter out too when I do the fuel pump. Would you recommend I replace the fuel filter before I do the fuel pump?

I shouldn't have to worry about relieving as fuel pressure since my fuel pump has not been working, right?

Many Thanks!
 
Hi guys,

The pump came in and I have two more questions before I attempt this job over the weekend. I've attached two pictures that I got off another thread. I circled the parts pertaining to my questions.

1) Regarding the lever that the sock is on, should it be bent down before I insert the pump into the gast tank? Or does that sock lever stay in the up position. The picture shows it at about the midway point.

2) There are two clear plastic tubes inserted in the red and white pump fuel ports. Are they in there just for shipping reasons? I don't see how these would attach to my existing fuel lines.

Many Thanks!

DSC_0213 (Medium).jpg


DSC_0214 (Medium).jpg
 
Actually performing the job answered my last question. It was successful and I'm back in business! Many Thanks to all you guys!
 
joegr said:
IF you are really hearing the fuel pump run, then there' no point to look at the fuel pump relay.
Things you can do...

Measure fuel pressure at the fuel rail.
Try to start it with the MAF disconnected.
Try to start it with starting fluid sprayed into the intake.
Check for spark at one of the plugs.
Use a scan tool with live data.
Compression check.
Click to expand...

I've been dealing with a crank no start for a few weeks. I can hear the fuel pump prime but the engine won't fire. I sprayed some starting fluid in the intake and it fired right up and ran great. The fuel pump is a few years old. Even though I can hear the fuel pump run, is it time to replace it again?
 
Hawk03 said:
I've been dealing with a crank no start for a few weeks. I can hear the fuel pump prime but the engine won't fire. I sprayed some starting fluid in the intake and it fired right up and ran great. The fuel pump is a few years old. Even though I can hear the fuel pump run, is it time to replace it again?
Click to expand...

It sounds like that might be true, or the filter is clogged up, or there is a problem with the jet pump. Can you measure fuel pressure?
 
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