Thanks, that's reassuring, I was worried it might be something more complex (electrical). I have a new pump on the way and I will replace that plus the filter this weekend and see if that improves starting. I don't have access to fuel pressure gauge but will have the pressure checked if replacing the pump and filter don't improve anything. I did replace the jet pump 6 or 7 years ago during a cold winter in the parking lot of my apartment as well as the fuel pump a few years ago.... It seems that most of my issues with this car have come in the winter - at least I have a garage now.
2002 Lincoln LS V8 Cranks but Won't Start
- Thread starter moe
- Start date
Thanks, that's reassuring, I was worried it might be something more complex (electrical). I have a new pump on the way and I will replace that plus the filter this weekend and see if that improves starting. I don't have access to fuel pressure gauge but will have the pressure checked if replacing the pump and filter don't improve anything. I did replace the jet pump 6 or 7 years ago during a cold winter in the parking lot of my apartment as well as the fuel pump a few years ago.... It seems that most of my issues with this car have come in the winter - at least I have a garage now.
I replaced the fuel pump and pump filters tonight and it runs and starts so much better. I think the dirty/clogged filters on the pump and canister caused issues pulling in fuel in the cold. I don't think it will get really cold any time soon to test it out but at least it runs better. I still need to replace the fuel filter in the wheel well. There was a slight hesitation at high rpms when stomping on the gas that I contributed to possible coil failure but that hesitation is gone now.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Replace that filter quick, because a clogged filter will screw up a new fuel pump in an incredibly short amount of time. It might even be what caused your current pump to go bad. Fuel filters are generally only good for 1000 gallons and ideally you want to replace it every 500 to 750 gallons. I recommend Wix fuel filters.
Help diagnosing my 2001 V6 with crank no start
I resurrected this thread because my situation is similar although mine is a V6. I checked many of the things herein and am still cranking but not starting. I bolded some questions I think would help me right away if someone looks at the thread.
To explain fully, the car started fine Wednesday night. Twice. It was only backed out of the garage and then later moved back in. The following morning it would not start. It cranks pretty well if maybe a little slow -just a little- and tries to turn over once or twice at first, then just cranks on and on.
* I have charged the battery up to 12.34 volts, no load. My other LS started yesterday after sitting for month and a half with battery at 11.5 volts, no load. So I think the battery is not the problem, although my Innova code reader battery test says it's below spec at 11.9 volts. I am going to charge the battery for several more hours today just to be sure. A load test may follow?
* Innova pulls NO codes.
* I checked the schrader valve and do get a little spurt after cycling key 3 times to on/off. Seems OK
* The fuel is very low. It's my daughters car and I tell her to keep fuel in it but a $6.00 cup of starbucks in more important than a $3.00 gallon of gas to her. The fuel gauge moves from pegged low to even with the empty line when the key is turned to on. The gas tank icon is not illuminated. I figure all these indicate gas is not a problem. Though I am considering replacing the fuel filter.
* I unplugged the MAF sensor. Still just cranks. Plugged back in.
* Purchased some starting fluid but have not yet tried it. Not sure exactly where to spray it???
* I have not listened for the fuel pump. I will tomorrow if I can convince wife or daughter to help. I happen to know this was replaced a few years ago.
* I have not kicked the gas tank. Yet.
* I have not checked the fuel shut off switch yet, again because of the schrader spurt.
* The PATS blinks once a second when the car is locked and is off when the car is unlocked.
* I have checked the fuel pump fuse though I think with the schrader squirt the fuel pump is probably all right. Have not checked the relay.
* I have a fuel pressure tester, a compression tester, a spark tester (I may use old school method before it comes but I need an assistant for that and none are available during the day) and a remote starter ( to eliminate need for assistant) all on order from Amazon for this and future problems.
I think that covers everything in this thread that led Moe to replace his fuel pump. I'm hoping I will find something less trouble to fix.
Thanks for any help.
I resurrected this thread because my situation is similar although mine is a V6. I checked many of the things herein and am still cranking but not starting. I bolded some questions I think would help me right away if someone looks at the thread.
To explain fully, the car started fine Wednesday night. Twice. It was only backed out of the garage and then later moved back in. The following morning it would not start. It cranks pretty well if maybe a little slow -just a little- and tries to turn over once or twice at first, then just cranks on and on.
* I have charged the battery up to 12.34 volts, no load. My other LS started yesterday after sitting for month and a half with battery at 11.5 volts, no load. So I think the battery is not the problem, although my Innova code reader battery test says it's below spec at 11.9 volts. I am going to charge the battery for several more hours today just to be sure. A load test may follow?
* Innova pulls NO codes.
* I checked the schrader valve and do get a little spurt after cycling key 3 times to on/off. Seems OK
* The fuel is very low. It's my daughters car and I tell her to keep fuel in it but a $6.00 cup of starbucks in more important than a $3.00 gallon of gas to her. The fuel gauge moves from pegged low to even with the empty line when the key is turned to on. The gas tank icon is not illuminated. I figure all these indicate gas is not a problem. Though I am considering replacing the fuel filter.
* I unplugged the MAF sensor. Still just cranks. Plugged back in.
* Purchased some starting fluid but have not yet tried it. Not sure exactly where to spray it???
* I have not listened for the fuel pump. I will tomorrow if I can convince wife or daughter to help. I happen to know this was replaced a few years ago.
* I have not kicked the gas tank. Yet.
* I have not checked the fuel shut off switch yet, again because of the schrader spurt.
* The PATS blinks once a second when the car is locked and is off when the car is unlocked.
* I have checked the fuel pump fuse though I think with the schrader squirt the fuel pump is probably all right. Have not checked the relay.
* I have a fuel pressure tester, a compression tester, a spark tester (I may use old school method before it comes but I need an assistant for that and none are available during the day) and a remote starter ( to eliminate need for assistant) all on order from Amazon for this and future problems.
I think that covers everything in this thread that led Moe to replace his fuel pump. I'm hoping I will find something less trouble to fix.
Thanks for any help.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
A 12.34 volts at no load reading indicates a completely discharged battery. You should have 12.6V, or ideally 12.9V right after charging.
It sounds like it could be low battery along with flooding due to very short runs in the cold and slow starter. When you get a good battery, you may need to hold the pedal to the floor to clear the flood at first.
You spray staring fluid into the air intake on the air filter box.
It sounds like it could be low battery along with flooding due to very short runs in the cold and slow starter. When you get a good battery, you may need to hold the pedal to the floor to clear the flood at first.
You spray staring fluid into the air intake on the air filter box.
OK so I'll start this post with a little ditty that is also a clue to what I found this morning though there' still a puzzle:
Joegr, Joegr he's the man
If he cant fix it no one can.
So here's the detailed story and the puzzle. Preface with I have 3 LSes, all 1st Gen. 2 are now running:
Car 1: 2001 Gray, 120,000 or so miles. My daughter has been driving this. It is the car that would not start on Thursday. The battery in it was a genuine Ford made for LS with gas drain hose. It advertised on the label "750 cold cranking amps". I read that the LS battery has 650 cranking amps but I figured an extra 100 wont do any harm. I remember buying this battery shortly after I purchased the car which was around November of 2015. The battery has a little sticker on it says 4/14. Seems likely to be mfg date.
Car 2: 2000 Silver, 199,000 miles. I've been mostly driving this one. It had sat in my cold storage workshop on jack stands for about 6 weeks. When I went to check it on Thurs it started quickly but initial cranking was a little slow. The battery in it looks exactly like the other battery but says "650 cold cranking amps". I took it off the stands and have been driving it last couple days while daughter driving my 2004 Navigator which she loves except for the gas mileage.
OK so I'll get to the point: I swapped the batteries this AM. I put the 650 Amp battery in Car 1. It cranked well, kicked over for a second and stalled again. I put the pedal to the floor and turned the key again and voila it started right up! (I never knew about the pedal to the floor clearing a flooding condition.) While in there I turned the Innova loose and it again said battery voltage low (about 12.0 volts.) Then I ran the alternator test and Innova said that was working fine. Good.
Then I took the 750 amp battery which would not start car 1 and put it in car 2. Started right up. Ran battery test - voltage too low about 12 again. Alternator test ran fine.
So why would the 750 amp newer battery die first? Why would it start one car and not the other? Could it be that car 1 was flooded the whole time and I never cleared it? I am going to put the 750 amp battery back in car 1 after attacking the posts and connectors with some emery cloth. I will report back with a much shorter post. I am wondering if I should return one of the batteries? Take it to Ford and ask for exchange which the label says free within 3 years. They could do a load test to convince themselves it's out of juice.
OK cool. I swapped batteries back and now have 2 LSes that start just fine. I did clean the contacts. Possible flood situation. Will have to speak to daughter about starting method.
Thanks as always, Joegr
Thanks as always, Joegr