2002 LS V8 - Replacing ignition coils, spark plugs, and VCG's

[FALECF4]

I have a 2002 LS V8 with about 98k miles and this weekend I am finally going to be changing my COP's, plugs and VCG's. I don't think this job has ever been done on this car. I was originally going to have the work done but from reading the forums it seems like a job that I can do myself on the V8 and save a ton of money. I already have my new plugs and I am ordering a set of coils from alanisdeals on ebay. From what I've read nobody has had an issue with coils from this seller. I am looking for part number DG-515 correct? Does anyone know a good place from which to order the valve cover gaskets and the other gaskets that I will need? I read on one of the threads that you can get an entire sets for $35 or even if it was $35 per side but I haven't been able to find that thread again.

Any tips I need for this job other than what is posted in the tech articles? I need to be careful when removing the connectors from the coils so that I don't bust off the tabs. I am not sure if I have oil in by the plugs but I am replacing everything anyway because I figure my car will need it eventually with this many miles. In the tech articles it says to use dielectric compound and some silicone brake caliper grease. Dielectric for the electrical connector to the coils and the the grease is so they slide on the plugs easier? Obviously I want to keep any dirt out of the valvetrain but if there is oil in by the plugs do I want to try to soak that up with a paper towel or just pull the plugs and let it drain into the cylinder?

Well thanks ahead of time for any help. I'll make sure to take pics of everything too. About how long is this job? I am mechanically inclined so that should help.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Yes take a rag and stuff down around plug if you see oil in there to sop it up.

 

[FALECF4]

Yeah, didn't think I wanted too much oil going into the cylinder.

 

[hite337]

Tip: take your time and be patient. it took me 6 hrs but i took my time and was in no rush at all. for me...this was easier than i thought it would be. the dipstick tube was a pain in the a$$ and dont forget to use black RTV where the timing cover and head connect. i bought my vcg's at the dealer for $50 per side. they came with the o-rings. i found a link to get both sides for $55 +shipping but it doesnt say if they come with o rings or not.http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=2&chapter=&Sectionids=10,4117&groupid=10014&subgroupid=62058&componentid=0&makeid=21&model=LS&year=2002&graphicID=FIP030&callout=4&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

 

[starfox86]

I did my valve cover gaskets, took about 6 hours too. Very happy about not dealing with any more oil in the plugs!

 

[97stscaddy]

Good lord... 6 hours!? I think it took me about 3 and a half, and I thought I was going pretty slow.

Use a quick disconnect tool to unhook the fuel line that runs across the drivers side valve cover will help make it easier to remove.
Wrap a half of a paper towel around the fat end of a 3/8" drive extension, then slide the extension out and gently slide the roll down into the spark plug well to soak up any oil.
Clean the cylinder head mating surfaces as well as you can using brake cleaner and a rag. Don't try to scrape them clean with a gasket scraper or razor blade or you could scar the surface and cause a leak.

 

[FALECF4]

Use a quick disconnect tool to unhook the fuel line that runs across the drivers side valve cover will help make it easier to remove.

Is is necessary to disconnect the fuel line or is it just easier that way? If I do disconnect it do I have to worry about air in the line when I reconnect it?

and dont forget to use black RTV where the timing cover and head connect.

The gasket doesn't cover this part or the RTV just makes sure I have a better seal?

Thanks for the input guys. Glad to see it doesn't take that long because my car can't be out of commission for more than a day. I have a friend who works at the local Ford dealership so I'll talk to him about the gaskets.

 

[FALECF4]

Parts!

So I got my coils in about 2 days from alanisdeals! New set of NGK Iridium plugs from Autozone. Ordered the gaskets from the FLM dealership and they already screwed up. I told the guy I need the gaskets for the valve covers and the ones that go around the plug area. So he calls me the next day saying that I have to now order the two parts separate. Went in today and the chick at the parts counter says there is a kit that has everything thing I need in it so now that is ordered, $120 later... I also have the RTV, dielectric compound and caliper grease. So the RTV says to put a small amount on each side of the gasket. Do I need to do that or just use it for the one part where the timing cover and head connect? Why did I need the caliper grease again? Just to coat the rubber part of the coil?

Here are picks of the parts so far. The coils are all the same size so that is promising.

 

[97stscaddy]

Dunno why they said you need brake caliper lube. Dielectric grease does the trick just fine. The RTV is just for the small space where the cylinder head meets the timing cover. Just put a small dab right on that spot before you put the cover back on, that's all you need.

It's not necessary to unhook the fuel line, but it will make it SO much easier to get the valve cover out. And you don't have to worry about air, because it's the return line. It probably has air in it anyway.

 

[hite337]

you put the black rtv here on the top and bottom. you'll see the joint when you have the VC off

try this link...good info and write up on the VGC project
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/Valve_Cover_Seal_Inspection/Valve-Cover-Seal.htm

 

[FALECF4]

Valve Cover Gaskets

So the dealership got it right this time. The project begins tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips guys. (note to self: don't need caliper grease go get $3 back from Autozone...)

 

[3.9Style]

nice!...

So the dealership got it right this time. The project begins tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips guys. (note to self: don't need caliper grease go get $3 back from Autozone...)

Good luck! Hope all goes well! I'm planning on doing all that jazz in about a month, and if I'm correct, it should cost just about $300 if not a tad over for misc. "surprise tools" aka the ones you don't know you'll need until you get there and figure out "oh crap, I need that and I don't have one!".

Besides, a project is'nt complete unless you make at LEAST 1 trip to an auto parts store, followed by picking up a 6-pack for when you're done!

 

[FALECF4]

3 out of 4 ain't bad (unless it's 3 out of 4 plugs drowning in oil...)

...if I'm correct, it should cost just about $300 if not a tad over...

Besides, a project is'nt complete unless you make at LEAST 1 trip to an auto parts store, followed by picking up a 6-pack for when you're done!

Yeah here were my costs.

NGK Iridium Plugs - $56.00 ($6.99/ea. plus I got a mail-in rebate for $1 per plug.)
VCG Kits - $120
New Coils - $160 (set of 8 shipped)
Quick Disconnect Tool - $6
Oil & Filter - $24
Two Guys With Beat Up Hands - Free (compliments of the LS)

So a total of $366 I guess isn't too bad. Oh I forgot the 60 cents to replace one of the valve cover bolts that vanished and the $5 for some GOJO.

I finally figured out why this car takes 6 quarts of oils too. I need at least a quart to fill where the spark plugs and coils are! Yeah every coil had oil on it and 6 were drowning in it so I'm very surprised my car ran as well as it did for as long as it did. But I think my car may have more power now than it did when I got it 18 months ago. I really do wonder how long it takes for that much oil to get in there and start messing with everything.

It took my friend and me from a little after 8AM to 3PM to get most of the work done but then I had to get to work and my friend finished up by 6:30. I don't know who said they did this job in 3 hours but that seems a little short for all of that work. I think 5-6 hours is a reasonable time to finish this job if you have the correct tools and working environment. We started at 8AM and worked outside of my friend's garage where it was a tropical 33 degrees and it just got worse as the day went on because it is spring in Wisconsin and we just got more snow. So due to the weather we were in taking a few small breaks, had to eat breakfast, the trip to the hardware store and I spent a good amount of time cleaning up the valve covers to make sure the gaskets would sit right. Like I said if you have the proper tools and work place 5-6 hours is reasonable.


Here are some pics from the job. Stupid camera died pretty much right away so I don't have a step by step but a few before and after plus my dirty, filthy coils.

So the first 3 are before we started. Notice the dirty valve covers with oily spots. Then there are my oil soaked coils :shifty:. The last two are after putting it back together. See clean valve covers! Oh and btw, the driver's side one is the biggest PITA!!!

 

[Uncle Vinnie]

Where did you get the coils for $160???? Never mind I saw you got it from "alanisdeals" I'll have to check it out.

Here in Canada we are getting rapped with the prices.

A few months ago I got a quote from the Stealership for $125 per coil.

 

[CobraStar_LS8]

tips on the coil covers...I eliminated some bolts and it made it easy and fast everytime I change coils and plugs...I especially eliminated the bottom rear on driver side because of the damn Brake Booster...i would change all 8 plugs in 15 minutes after the elimination of the bolts...I think i left 3 on each side

 

[3.9Style]

...we started at 8AM and worked outside of my friend's garage where it was a tropical 33 degrees and it just got worse as the day went on because it is spring in Wisconsin and we just got more snow.

Then you guys actually got it done in good time IMO....I remember taking apart my Trans Am's steering column here in new england one winter, and that alone took me two days with it being so cold!!! Nothing worse than cold grease or oil on your hands!!!

 

[FALECF4]

tips on the coil covers...I eliminated some bolts and it made it easy and fast everytime I change coils and plugs...I especially eliminated the bottom rear on driver side because of the damn Brake Booster...i would change all 8 plugs in 15 minutes after the elimination of the bolts...I think i left 3 on each side

How often are you doing this job?!!! I was thinking that this once would last for...oh say...the rest of the life of my car!

But yeah I see how those bolt for the covers aren't so necessary.

 

[FALECF4]

super PITA

Turns out I am NOT done with this job after all...

When I went to work and my buddy finished the driver's side valve cover he said he put it all back together and started it up. Well when he started it, it was smoking on both sides which he assumed was just oil burning off of the manifolds (which was correct), however the driver's side continued to smoke. He figured it was just more oil. I didn't check it out last night because it was late but this morning when I went to fill up I popped the hood and it was still smoking. I felt around the back side of the valve cover and there was fresh oil (oh SH!T). Continued to feel around that bottom corner and then I feel a little piece of rubber hanging out so I just pulled it off because I knew it was some of the $(%&(% gasket. FML (doesn't stand for Ford Mercury Lincoln...) So now I get to pull that side apart again and put in another new valve cover gasket. Another $35-40 plus at least an hour. Oh and while we were working the other day he was twisting on the oil dip stick to see how to get it off of that bolt and snapped the top of that damn thing right off too!

Does anyone have an extra oil dipstick laying around?

Here's the part of the gasket that was hanging out and severed...

 

[TDUB]

Hey man don't feel bad. I did this job last summer and my car seemed to be running great until all of a sudden one night it just started crapping out on me. I pulled the drivers side coils and sure enough on the back one there was oil again. Well I checked all of my bolts, and the rear one in the center was loose so I tightened it and bought a new coil. Still ran like crap, so I pulled the coil and yet again more oil. So I pulled the valve cover and the rear o ring had snapped in half. The next day I went down to the local dealership and bought a new o ring but I was in such a hurry to get the car back together that I over torqued a valve cover bolt, leaving the remainder of the bolt in the thread. Thankfully I was able to just buy a bolt remover and get it out but it turns out the bolt is only carried in Dearborn by Ford, so I had to special order it. So, I decided to paint my valve cover while I had it off, I have it all back together now but the cats and o2s are fried so I have to have the new cats I bought welded in before I can do anything.

 

[CobraStar_LS8]

BIG QUESTION...Did you put Ultra Black Silicone on the "Valve Covers" where the gasket goes before setting the Gasket on the Valve Covers and let it dry???...I did this to have them stay seated so when I put the Valve Covers on it's a straight forward job

 

[WINSTON]

I have been thinking about this job for a few weeks. I have never done much mechanically. A little hesitant to do this, but need to start somewhere.

How tough would it be to do for someone like myself with little experience? I am trying to do more mechanically so really want to undertake the project and learn - but don't want to F things up real bad.

I am starting by just printing out the tech articles and reading as much as I can.

 

[lseguy]

I have been thinking about this job for a few weeks. I have never done much mechanically. A little hesitant to do this, but need to start somewhere.

How tough would it be to do for someone like myself with little experience? I am trying to do more mechanically so really want to undertake the project and learn - but don't want to F things up real bad.

I am starting by just printing out the tech articles and reading as much as I can.

It is NOT a fun job. at all. Drivers side is 85% of the task. If I had to go it over again, I'd do the passenger side myself and save a couple of hours of dealership labor. Passenger side is actually very easy. Drivers side? I'd take that to my local Ford dealership and have them have at it.

 

[FALECF4]

R.i.p. Ls

MY ENGINE BLEW! :bash: :Bang (see piece of engine block below)

I think this is an extreme case of what could happen and if you are at least a little more cautious than me you will be fine.

If you read the thread so far you know that my driver's side gasket was messed up when my friend put it on. There was a picture of the small piece of gasket I pulled off when I felt around the back side of the valve cover. Turns out a lot more of the gasket(pic below) was not in place correctly but I couldn't feel it because it was inside of the valve cover.

Here's the story:

My buddy and I did the plugs, coils, and valve cover gaskets(Saturday). Same story as above. The next morning(Sunday) when I went to fill up I found the valve cover leaking on the driver's side and I pulled off a 2-inch section of gasket that was hanging out so I knew there was a problem. I have no other transportation so I drove the car to work that night, 15 miles each way. When I got back into town after work it seemed like it was smoking pretty much from the oil leaking so I put a quart of oil in it. Now remember my buddy snapped the top of my oil dipstick off on Saturday while we were working on it so I couldn't even pull that out to check how low the oil really was (obviously didn't think it leaked as much as it did). I had off Monday so my plan was first thing in the morning to drive to the dealership, get the new valve cover gasket, and then drive to my old high school to do the work in the auto shop. The dealership and shop are 15 miles from where I live. I drove towards the dealership and on the off ramp sitting at the light my car dies, I pop the hood to check it out and a guys pulls up in a truck asking if I need any help. I told him "let's find out". I managed to pull out the dipstick with two screw drivers...nothing....no reading on the dipstick at all. Luckily he had a tow strap. He pulled me the mile or two it was to the shop and then drove me to the dealership and back, nice guy. Also lucky for me that the dealership screwed up when they initially ordered my gaskets because they first ordered just the valve cover gaskets and not the kits so they still had the first gaskets sitting there. I got back to the shop pulled the driver's side apart again, replaced the gasket, and get it back together in just two hours. It wasn't so bad with a proper place to work and many sockets extensions and elbows. Finally I lifted the car and dropped what little oil was left in the car plus the filter and put new stuff in. This is when I realized how bad it had actually been leaking because there was oil running down the length of the bottom of my car all of the way to the rear suspension! After finishing everything I triple checked it all and, moment of truth, started the car. It knocked with the initial start up and then was smooth and silent, running like a champ. Oh how wrong I was. As I started driving the car around town, gently, I noticed it was knocking. I managed to make-shift fix my dipstick(more pics) so that I could check my oil. I babied it because I didn't know what else to do. Went to Autozone to grab another quart because 6 quarts was only making it read to minimum on the dipstick. Then I had a guy listening to it from a shop across the street and he said it sounded like a stuck lifter and that it might re-pressurize after a while, I could live with that. After that I took it to a family friend who is a mechanic and used to work on our cars. He said it sounded like a rod bearing because it was lower than up in the valve train but that he has heard many cars sound like that and have driven for a few years like that. I didn't like that idea but the thought of dropping the pan and trying to replace bearings at this point wasn't appealing either. Basically he said it was drivable and that I'd know in 1000 miles if it was getting better or worse. It got slightly louder when I left there so I had been keeping the RPMs below 3K. I was driving 150 miles later then BOOM. I still don't know what exactly blew if a rod went through the block or what because the car is sitting at the tow place now.

That's my craptastic story. Anyone have a spare engine sitting around? Or at least the lower end?

The pictures:
First ones are the piece of my block that the tow guys found sitting on my torsion bar. It is about 1"x1"x.5" like a rod just punched itself right through the block. Then we have the extra 8" of gasket that I didn't realize was not seated correctly because it was inside the valve cover. Me getting towed after my car shut itself down from lack of oil. Finally my makeshift dipstick handle.

 

[LsUnV2]

man im so sorry to hear that, there may be some reasonable engines on ebay.. i have seen them a few times and remember seeing a brand new one for 2700

 

[Gipp]

that sucks man... after all that hard work!!