2002 LS V8 - Replacing ignition coils, spark plugs, and VCG's

Sounds like your friend owes you a new engine. I wouldn't be asking him to help me with anything on my car ever again if I were you, even if it was filling the gas tank.
 
Yeah and I had just ordered a new dipstick too! LOL, the dealership called me to tell me it was in and I was like "uhhhh, I don't really need it anymore cuz I just blew the engine" then I has him humor me with a quote for a new engine from them...$6800! So looks like I'm shopping now. Yes, it does suck but it happened so now I'm just thinking, what next? This might be an opportunity to make it better but we'll see.
 
TDUB said:
Sounds like your friend owes you a new engine. I wouldn't be asking him to help me with anything on my car ever again if I were you, even if it was filling the gas tank.
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He felt terrible just breaking off the top of the dipstick. I didn't tell him yet that the fckn engine took a crap. I want to blame him but at the same time I maybe should have checked it out a little better when I realized it was leaking. I'm not the type to try to make him pay for it because it is expensive and we are all broke. It will all work out somehow.
 
Wow. And I was planning on doing it myself but after hearing your horror story I just might let my mechanic do it for me. I have a 01 with 96500miles
 
I really don't think it is that bad of a job IF you have the proper tools and a good place to work. This was pretty much a fluke and I only think it really happened because we were working outside in 33 degree weather and it was only getting colder and windier because there was a storm front coming in(it snowed later that night). Disconnect as many of the hoses and things you can that go over the driver's side cover and get all of the parts out of the way that are attached to the wheel well and you should be fine. Have a good variety of regular and deep-well sockets, 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive socket wrenches, and the part that helped the most was having about 4 different extension lengths and 3 different elbows for the socket wrenches. Other than that just triple check your work. Get the new valve cover and gasket in place and then feel around the edges to make sure it is still seated correctly. That is where my friend screwed up. He said he thought the gasket came off the bolt on the back side when we were putting the valve cover back in place so I told him to check and make sure it was right....needless to say he did a poor ass job of checking. I would do this job myself in a heartbeat as long as I have the tools and place to work. I think myself I could finish it in 5-6 hours with doing plugs, coils, and gaskets.
 
kingofmy_h said:
Wow. And I was planning on doing it myself but after hearing your horror story I just might let my mechanic do it for me. I have a 01 with 96500miles
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Don't let this horror story turn you off. It really is not a hard job at all, it's just a matter of working in tight spaces and as long as you take the time to do it right you will not have any problems. I've now had my drivers side valve cover off a total of 3 times because I was in a hurry to finish the car, but I've only had the passengers side off the one time because I took my time on that side and wasn't in such a rush to get it done. If I were to do it again, I would do the drivers side first that way the passengers side will be a complete breeze. If you're really unsure of yourself though start with the passengers side. The best way I found to do it on both sides is to disconnect everything that you feel may get in the way before you start trying to take the valve cover off.
 
What is the cost of this repair if done by a mechanic, or even worse the dearlership? I would be buying the parts.
 
Yes definitely buy the parts yourself. You can get a great deal on the coils from alanisdeal on Ebay, $160 shipped. Pick out the kind of plugs you want. I don't know if the gasket kits can be found anywhere for cheap. I got mine from the dealership for $120 which included both sides after tax. It should be about $300-325 in parts depending on how expensive of plugs you choose.

I have no clue what it would cost a shop to do. Depends on their rates but I would think $300-400 at a shop charging $60/hr. The dealership I don't even want to know. I have a friend who works at the dealership and they wanted over $100 per coil! So I imagine if you went through a dealership it could easily be $1200-1500.
 
I've heard people get quotes as high as 2 grand from the dealerships for this job. If I remember correctly, they are "required" to replace all of your valve cover bolts after removal for this job.
 
TWO GRAND!!!:eek:

I see you are in Silver Springs. That is Maryland right? Ha, I'd drive to MD(from WI) and do the job for $1000, I buy the parts! I'd still come out ahead!
 
So I picked up an '01 LS V8 from another LVC memeber to replace my engine. I will be starting a new thread to follow that process.
 
Iwas quoted 400 too however I'm doing them myself this weekend and upgrading to accel coils and iridium plugs in the process... see how those work out..
 
MMAFIGHTER121 said:
Iwas quoted 400 too however I'm doing them myself this weekend and upgrading to accel coils and iridium plugs in the process... see how those work out..
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I upgraded to Bosch Platinum Iridium plugs and Accel Cops last year and have no complaints whatsoever. I replaced my plugs shortly before I did the vcgs and coils. Car seemed slightly faster with the accels, but I didn't dyno it and it may just have been the fact that I went from having oil soaked cop's and plugs to new cop's and clean plugs.
 
Yea I thought I had seen that in another thread, as I've said the accels seem to have the same pass fail as all other coils and I'm chalking that up to people replacing the coils and not the vcgs. I'm up north so after I get this done I'm going to try and get an exhaust done then gwt a custom dyno tune (there's a few good shops in ny) and I figure between new intake exhaust and the 93 octane every little bit in the ignition helps burn better
 
Greeting,

I am new here to this forum. I have run into this issue just now in my wifes car. I am trying to research into the parts. I am farily mechanical, so I will do this myself. But, I have a few questions.

1) The OEM motocraft SP468 plugs, are they fine? I have always used whatever the man called for. I see a lot of guys swapping to different plugs. any issues? Or should I stick with the OEM?

2) COP's - I have seen the alanisdeal from ebay COP's, and there are a few others. IS there any manufacturer recommended over others, or ones to stay away from?

3) The VCG kits I have found, complete w all the O-Rings. That's not really an issue. But I read that a few guys recommended the RTV in 2 spots. I have the original dealer shop manual, and it states they want RTV used on both sides, which I would at least do on one side so I don't have issues w it falling off during setting. I have always used RTV in similar cases.
4) I have seen replacement boots for the plugs. But are these standard on the COP's when I get those, or is it something separate?

That's about it for now. I really appreciate the help in advance.
 
mot said:
Greeting,

I am new here to this forum. I have run into this issue just now in my wifes car. I am trying to research into the parts. I am farily mechanical, so I will do this myself. But, I have a few questions.

1) The OEM motocraft SP468 plugs, are they fine? I have always used whatever the man called for. I see a lot of guys swapping to different plugs. any issues? Or should I stick with the OEM?

2) COP's - I have seen the alanisdeal from ebay COP's, and there are a few others. IS there any manufacturer recommended over others, or ones to stay away from?

3) The VCG kits I have found, complete w all the O-Rings. That's not really an issue. But I read that a few guys recommended the RTV in 2 spots. I have the original dealer shop manual, and it states they want RTV used on both sides, which I would at least do on one side so I don't have issues w it falling off during setting. I have always used RTV in similar cases.
4) I have seen replacement boots for the plugs. But are these standard on the COP's when I get those, or is it something separate?

That's about it for now. I really appreciate the help in advance.
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1. I would (and did) stay with the OEM plugs.
2. I would (and did) stay with the OEM Motorcraft coils as well. Max (ad to the right) can get you the latest rev parts for about $50 each. Some have had okay luck with the ebay ones, others have not.
3. I think that with the newer revision gaskets, not as much RTV is needed, but it won't hurt.
4. Most COPs (coils) come with the boots. The OEM ones certainly do. Be sure to use some high-quality dielectric grease at both ends of the boots, but don't go overboard on the amount.
 
Hmmmm. OK. Thanks. I figured, I'd stick w OEM plugs.

I have been reading about the backwards wiring issues w aftermarket COP's. I didnt want to really have to spend that much on buying OEM COP's. Unfortunately I have been out of work for a few months w a knee injury and have finally healed after the SX and am going back to fulltime tomorrow. So, Funds are REALLY stretched. I thought maybe the ones off EBay were decent. The more I read... I'm getting a little worried as I really DON'T want to have to wonder if I need to swap polarities after I have assembled it. I'm NOT the greatest at electrical diagnostics. I'd rather NOT have to troubleshoot.
 
I have read a few of the other posts pertaining to the coils. They say the Visteon are OEM. Someone is looking into it and I'm awaiting his reply on the thread. The alanisdeals from ebay has the Visteon 8 pack for $179. If that is correct COP's, I am hoping to use those, and also hoping the wiring is correct.
 
From looking around, I found that the OEM plugs are listed as Platinum & Iridium. So, IMHO I see no reason to go with another brand. Thanks joegr !
 
OK, about to purchase the parts and get dirty real soon. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage. (Building one in spring, go figure, huh?) I have a friend who said I can drive it to his house and he would help me. I know I have to work on the motor cold, so I will pop the hood and let it sit a bit before we get into it.

My question is what am I going to need tool wise? I'm not sure he has enough tools, so I was going to pack up a toolbox and bring it. I was going to bring 1/4 & 3/8 metric & standard sockets w extentions, some wrenches, A plug socket of course, grease, anti-seize, RTV, a couple channel locks and vise grips, and a couple razor blades to clean the old gasket off.

Is there anything else I am missing? I REALLY hate to get into it and find I needed a tool I don't have. MANY thanks in advance!..... mot
 
swivels and several different length extensions. You'll use the 1/4 drive a lot. Magnetic pickup tool for those "oh #@$%@" moments.
Fuel line disconnect tool (it's in the way of the driver's side)
I find an assortment of jewler's screwdrivers to be very worthwhile.
No need for std sockets unless something is damaged.

Don't wait until it's totally cold to get the various intake tubes disconnected. I've found the plastic connections to be very brittle when cold.
 
Thanks. Fuel line disconnect tool? something I can get from a regular auto parts store, or dealer tool?
 
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