2003 Lincoln LS 3.9 wont disable alarm

[Diplomat 1]

I had my car sitting for a couple months and I went to turn my car on today. Had no issues when I parked it but now my remote won’t disable my alarm. I tried a new battery in the remote and I also replaced the PATS fuse #24 on the passenger compartment and still no luck. Is there a way to bypass the alarm and start the car? What should I check next? Thanks for help in advance

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Keep in mind that with all the electronics on/in the LS... it creates a parasitic drain on the main battery, (in the trunk). If you didn't have a battery charger connected while it sat for 2 months, your battery voltage might be low.

If the battery voltage drops low enough... the car will not respond, or may get "quirky".

Check the battery voltage. If it dropped below 10-11 volts (or so), put the battery on a charger, (after disconnecting BOTH battery cables).

If the battery is older, (5-6 years), it may or may not take a good charge... and might need to be replaced. There is usually a small nickel sized sticker on the side of the battery showing the manufacture date of the battery.

This would be the best place to start with any diagnosis... since a fully charged battery should have 12.6 volts normally.

 

[Diplomat 1]

Keep in mind that with all the electronics on/in the LS... it creates a parasitic drain on the main battery, (in the trunk). If you didn't have a battery charger connected while it sat for 2 months, your battery voltage might be low.

If the battery voltage drops low enough... the car will not respond, or may get "quirky".

Check the battery voltage. If it dropped below 10-11 volts (or so), put the battery on a charger, (after disconnecting BOTH battery cables).

If the battery is older, (5-6 years), it may or may not take a good charge... and might need to be replaced. There is usually a small nickel sized sticker on the side of the battery showing the manufacture date of the battery.

This would be the best place to start with any diagnosis.

Thanks for the quick reply I forgot to mention I put it on a battery charger and the battery is from 2 years ago. I checked all fuses and all are good. Is there a way to check is the key fob is good?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Did you have it on a charger for the whole 2 months it sat... or recently when it wouldn't start?

Is the battery voltage at or close to 12.6 volts? Do the interior lights come on when you open the door? What brand of battery is in the car? If it came from Wally World... it could have failed in 2 years time after the car sat for a while.

Some auto parts stores have a gadget at the register that allow a person to test the remote.

You aim your remote at the device they have, and (assuming they have batteries in the device), it will light up if your remote is working properly.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

And part of how well/long a battery holds up... depends on the climate you live in.

Colder parts of the country are harder on batteries. Especially if the vehicle isn't garaged.

 

[joegr]

I am uncertain as to what you mean here. The PATS that keeps the engine from starting is separate from the perimeter alarm that is disarmed by the remote.

Is it really that your remote does not disarm the perimeter alarm, so the horn goes off when you open the door? Even if so, this would not keep it from starting.

Is it instead that the PATS is not accepting your key and keeping the starter from even engaging? (The remote has absolutely nothing to do with this.) If so, when the PATS light stops flashing rapidly (leave the key in the run position) what two digit code does it flash out a few times?

 

[Diplomat 1]

And part of how well/long a battery holds up... depends on the climate you live in.

Colder parts of the country are harder on batteries. Especially if the vehicle isn't garaged.

it’s an exide batter and I only put the battery charger today. I got the amps back up but didn’t check voltage. Will check the actual voltage and let you guys know.

 

[Diplomat 1]

I am uncertain as to what you mean here. The PATS that keeps the engine from starting is separate from the perimeter alarm that is disarmed by the remote.

Is it really that your remote does not disarm the perimeter alarm, so the horn goes off when you open the door? Even if so, this would not keep it from starting.

Is it instead that the PATS is not accepting your key and keeping the starter from even engaging? (The remote has absolutely nothing to do with this.) If so, when the PATS light stops flashing rapidly (leave the key in the run position) what two digit code does it flash out a few times?

So after I charged my battery in the trunk I took off the terminals. Once I connected the terminals with all the doors closed, I go to open the driver side door and Yes the alarm would go off. I press the unlock button on the remote and the alarm/horn still continues to go on. I am assuming that’s why my car will not start. It doesn’t even crank. How do I get the code for PATS? Just leave key in the run position and wait? Appreciate all the help guys

 

[04_Sport_LS]

What happens if you lock and unlock the door using the key? No fob.

 

[Diplomat 1]

What happens if you lock and unlock the door using the key? No fob.

If I manually unlock the driver door it’s the Same thing. The alarm stays on and horn keeps goin.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

when the PATS light stops flashing rapidly (leave the key in the run position) what two digit code does it flash out a few times?

You really need to answer Joe's question first.

Beyond that... shortly after I bought my LS (used) I was in the house and hearing single horn honks coming from my LS.

I went out in the garage... and went through something similar to what you are experiencing. Turns out that the battery had a bad cell... and that was messing with the PATS. I put a new battery in, and all was well.

This is why I asked you what the battery voltage is. If it's at 10.5 volts instead of 12.6 volts... you might have a bad cell. But you won't be able to tell for sure... unless the battery is fully charged.

However and again... you need to answer Joe's question first.

 

[joegr]

So after I charged my battery in the trunk I took off the terminals. Once I connected the terminals with all the doors closed, I go to open the driver side door and Yes the alarm would go off....

Normal and expected operation. Anytime you reconnect the battery with the doors closed, the perimeter alarm arms. This is to prevent thieves from disarming the alarm by interrupting the battery.
Turning the key to the run position should stop the horn and lights. Does it not?
The alarm going off has absolutely nothing to do with the car not starting. I don't know why the falsehood that it does keeps getting repeated.

Turn the key to run and observe the PATS light. If there is a problem, it will be flashing rapidly. After a little while, it will stop the rapid flashing and flash out the first digit of the code, usually one or two. After a brief delay, it will flash out the second digit, then it will delay and repeat a few times.
The PATS light is the red light at the center of the dash at the bottom of the windshield.

That code is really needed to be able to give any help.

 

[Diplomat 1]

You really need to answer Joe's question first.

Beyond that... shortly after I bought my LS (used) I was in the house and hearing single horn honks coming from my LS.

I went out in the garage... and went through something similar to what you are experiencing. Turns out that the battery had a bad cell... and that was messing with the PATS. I put a new battery in, and all was well.

This is why I asked you what the battery voltage is. If it's at 10.5 volts instead of 12.6 volts... you might have a bad cell. But you won't be able to tell for sure... unless the battery is fully charged.

However and again... you need to answer Joe's question first.

I am going to go check the pats code and the voltage on the battery.

 

[Diplomat 1]

Normal and expected operation. Anytime you reconnect the battery with the doors closed, the perimeter alarm arms. This is to prevent thieves from disarming the alarm by interrupting the battery.
Turning the key to the run position should stop the horn and lights. Does it not?
The alarm going off has absolutely nothing to do with the car not starting. I don't know why the falsehood that it does keeps getting repeated.

Turn the key to run and observe the PATS light. If there is a problem, it will be flashing rapidly. After a little while, it will stop the rapid flashing and flash out the first digit of the code, usually one or two. After a brief delay, it will flash out the second digit, then it will delay and repeat a few times.
The PATS light is the red light at the center of the dash at the bottom of the windshield.

That code is really needed to be able to give any help.

turning the key to the run position does not stop the horn or lights. Will get pats code and get back to you.

 

[Diplomat 1]

Went out and checked the battery is at 11.33 volts with no terminals connected. Also joege you were absolutely right the horn and lights DOES stop when I put key in the run position. I also don’t see any pats light. In the run position I only see engine light, oil light, seat belt light and battery light. Is it more of a no crank issue than an alarm issue? Thanks for all help guys

 

[04_Sport_LS]

The PATS light is on top of the dashboard in the middle.

 

[joegr]

In red here:

 

[04_Sport_LS]

You really need to get the battery up to 12.6 volts. Put the battery back on the charger... and let it charge for a couple more hours.

If you can't get it closer... or up to 12.6 volts... it may be the battery.

Every 12 volt car battery has 6 cells... 2.1 volts per cell. That equals 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery.

If the battery is not sealed... and you can pop the top cover off... you may want to look inside and see if the water level in each cell is about 3/4" from the top.

If the battery is "sealed" ... you may want to take the battery to a local parts store and have them "load test" the battery.

Sometimes batteries go bad early.

 

[Diplomat 1]

So the pats light turns on for a couple seconds when I put in run position then goes off and stays off even as I try to start the car. No flashing or blinking from the pats light. Also I will charge the battery and try to get the volts up On it.

 

[joegr]

So the pats light turns on for a couple seconds when I put in run position then goes off and stays off even as I try to start the car. No flashing or blinking from the pats light. Also I will charge the battery and try to get the volts up On it.

Then PATS is operating normally. The security is not preventing the car from starting.
Does the engine crank? (Starter runs when you turn the key to start.)

 

[Diplomat 1]

Then PATS is operating normally. The security is not preventing the car from starting.
Does the engine crank? (Starter runs when you turn the key to start.)

No crank at all. With my battery charger on the battery I have 13.74 volts and still on crank. What should be my next step?

 

[joegr]

If your battery won't hold at least 12.6 volts with the charger off, then your battery is bad.
Does the voltage remain at 13.7 with the key turned to start? How about with the headlights on? Do they dim when you turn the key to start?

Troubleshooting for no crank, no start:
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

 

[04_Sport_LS]

The voltage will be higher than 12.6 when charging the battery. You need to charge it long enough... that when you remove the charger the battery voltage is 12.6. Not 11.33

Again... is the battery sealed... or are the caps removeable? If you can remove the caps, check the water level... and also look inside and check for a white corrosion on the plates inside. If there is white corrosion, (instead of seeing clean gray lead plates), the battery is most likely toast.

Another thought. Are (or were) the battery terminals corroded when you first tried to start the car? Corrosion at the terminals will not only affect starting... but also charging.

 

[Diplomat 1]

If your battery won't hold at least 12.6 volts with the charger off, then your battery is bad.
Does the voltage remain at 13.7 with the key turned to start? How about with the headlights on? Do they dim when you turn the key to start?

Troubleshooting for no crank, no start:
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

I was trying to diagnose the problem And I think I figured out the problem. With the key in the run position I put ground to the “starter relay coil” fuse which is fuse #1 on the passenger side fuse box and the car started. Does this point to a bad key ignition or something else? Thanks again for all the help

 

[Diplomat 1]

The voltage will be higher than 12.6 when charging the battery. You need to charge it long enough... that when you remove the charger the battery voltage is 12.6. Not 11.33

Again... is the battery sealed... or are the caps removeable? If you can remove the caps, check the water level... and also look inside and check for a white corrosion on the plates inside. If there is white corrosion, (instead of seeing clean gray lead plates), the battery is most likely toast.

Another thought. Are (or were) the battery terminals corroded when you first tried to start the car? Corrosion at the terminals will not only affect starting... but also charging.

I cleaned both terminals and battery posts and made sure they were tight.