2003 Lincoln LS Stereo Problem PLEASE HELP!!

Okay, new question!! I'm going to order my new OEM headunit but the problem I'm having is that my particular head unit is harder to find (or atleast it is for me). My head unit is model "3W4T-18C815-AC". So I suppose my question is.. is that particular model of headunit the ONLY one my harness will connect to without modification? Or will a "4W4Tetc" 2003-2005 lincoln ls headunit work as well? The difference that I notice between the two is that the 4W4T has one more harness plug than the 3W4T. Only reason I ask is because the 4W4T's are much easier to find.

I don't know I guess I just figured one of you might be familiar with this subject. I just want my music back, and OEM by all means possible. Thanks !! Oh and if any of you know a good place to find one please enlighten me.

Normally, the answer would be yes (or no). However, you have an 03. Some 03s have the gen II radio connections, but others have something that is in between gen I and gen II. Which is yours I wonder?

Did you ever test that switched feed wire? You are relating the exact symptoms that you get when the constant power feed is working, but the switched one is not. Your radio failed right after you spliced into that very wire. It seems like that would be an incredible coincidence if this isn't your problem.
 
Normally, the answer would be yes (or no). However, you have an 03. Some 03s have the gen II radio connections, but others have something that is in between gen I and gen II. Which is yours I wonder?

Did you ever test that switched feed wire? You are relating the exact symptoms that you get when the constant power feed is working, but the switched one is not. Your radio failed right after you spliced into that very wire. It seems like that would be an incredible coincidence if this isn't your problem.

I didn't exactly do a specific volt test on that particular wire. However, my amp's remote wire is intertwined with the yellow/green switch wire. I had cut that particular switch wire, and twisted the amp remote wire together with both ends of the switched yellow/green wire. Basically twisting three copper connections together, and electrical taping them.

The only reason I find it unnessecary to do a volt test on that switch wire, is because the amp turns on when the ignition is switched on. I don't see how the amp would work properly but the radio wouldn't if it were a switched wire power issue, seemings the radio/amp are both connected to it.

Now just for a quick update. The radio itself will not play sound and/or properly function. If I hit "Load", it allows me to load CD's. If I hit "Eject", it allows me to eject CD's. If I hit "Menu", the clock will display and will allow me to adjust the time I desire with the up and down "SEL" button. Now back to the CD's. If I hit the CD button (in attempt to play one that has already been loaded), the display just goes black after it says loading/reading CD #. The radio won't do anything at all when I press the AM/FM button.

So it's not only the fact that my amp works that I don't believe I have a switched power wire issue, but also the fact that some things on my headunit work, some work partially, and some don't work at all. That's what leads me to believe that the headunit took a dump.

However you have a HUGE point that still bothers me, and that is that it is a almost unbelievable coincidence that it stops working after I install my system. I don't know, all I can do is order a new HU and cross my fingers. I appreciate everyones help and input by the way, thanks and God bless.
 
... The only reason I find it unnessecary to do a volt test on that switch wire, is because the amp turns on when the ignition is switched on. I don't see how the amp would work properly but the radio wouldn't if it were a switched wire power issue, seemings the radio/amp are both connected to it...

So, you have a source signal wire and two connections made to it. One of these connections works, so you refuse to believe that the other connection might be loose or otherwise failed in some way. Just twisting wires together is not reliable. The test is very easy to do. You can lead a horse to water, but ...


... Now just for a quick update. The radio itself will not play sound and/or properly function. If I hit "Load", it allows me to load CD's. If I hit "Eject", it allows me to eject CD's. If I hit "Menu", the clock will display and will allow me to adjust the time I desire with the up and down "SEL" button. Now back to the CD's. If I hit the CD button (in attempt to play one that has already been loaded), the display just goes black after it says loading/reading CD #. The radio won't do anything at all when I press the AM/FM button.

So it's not only the fact that my amp works that I don't believe I have a switched power wire issue, but also the fact that some things on my headunit work, some work partially, and some don't work at all. That's what leads me to believe that the headunit took a dump.
...

You keep saying this. You don't understand how it works. Your argument exactly supports that the problem is in fact the failed switch power feed. The radio has a constant power feed. If it didn't, the clock and eject/insert features couldn't work. On the other hand, without the switched power, there would be no way to turn the radio on and off with the key. This is exactly what isn't working in your case. Do you have some wild theory that the switched feed provides some power even when it is off? It doesn't. There are two power feeds to the radio. One of them (constant) is working, and the other (switched) is not.

I'm trying to help and to to save you time and money, but I'm done with this now.
 
I didn't intend to sound and/or be disrespectful, so I'm sorry if you took me as being so. I'm learning as I'm going apparently. I will pull the headunit out again and re-inspect that switched power wire and pray that I find something wrong. I really do apologize though, your knowledge and input is the only way I can solve this. Didn't mean to insult or upset you, thanks for the input.
 
I didn't intend to sound and/or be disrespectful, so I'm sorry if you took me as being so. I'm learning as I'm going apparently. I will pull the headunit out again and re-inspect that switched power wire and pray that I find something wrong. I really do apologize though, your knowledge and input is the only way I can solve this. Didn't mean to insult or upset you, thanks for the input.

Return the wiring to what it was before you did anything and see what happens. The result will show you how to proceed.
 
Okay, update!!

I returned all of the wiring to the way it was prior to my amp remote wire install. Then I connected battery and checked the headunit, same issues nothing changed.

So I double checked the fuses only to find that the stereo fuse (#27 previously stated by Joegr) is now BLOWN!! I replaced it and now my stereo and everything works accordingly. So I reconnected my amp remote wire and everything still works great.

Now my issue is this. My amp gets power and works properly, however my two 10" subwoofers get little to no sound!? I'm using a LOC and it's all wired properly, the RCA's have good signal etc. For some reason I just get a tiny bit of sound out of the subs though. I'm using a 4 channel amp, I may have it wired wrong but I doubt it. Any advice? Thanks again guys !!
 
... Now my issue is this. My amp gets power and works properly, however my two 10" subwoofers get little to no sound!? I'm using a LOC and it's all wired properly, the RCA's have good signal etc. For some reason I just get a tiny bit of sound out of the subs though. I'm using a 4 channel amp, I may have it wired wrong but I doubt it. Any advice? Thanks again guys !!

I suspect that your car shipped with subs. You can plug your VIN number into this site and find out.
http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=543BF82E7C65BB2CF904872410F99878.fcvas505

If it did, then your problem may just be that the headunit isn't sending any low frequencies to the door speakers that you tapped off of. Instead, you would need to connect the line in of the sub amp to the sub line out on the back of the headunit.
 
I suspect that your car shipped with subs. You can plug your VIN number into this site and find out.
http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=543BF82E7C65BB2CF904872410F99878.fcvas505

If it did, then your problem may just be that the headunit isn't sending any low frequencies to the door speakers that you tapped off of. Instead, you would need to connect the line in of the sub amp to the sub line out on the back of the headunit.

Seems like a very high possibility that that may be the issue. Joegr if you have time could you please tell me which color wires are the sub line outs so I can fix this tomorow morning? Thanks again for all the help!!
 
That's right here, as long as your 03 has the gen II radio connector scheme. It'll take more digging if you have the early 03.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...HELP!!&p=2037295820&viewfull=1#post2037295820

Okay thanks, dumb question as you've already posted it in my own thread lol. Okay new question !!

1: My LOC has 4 terminals, +/- right, and +/- left. So should I connect both positives from the left and right to the positive sub line out, and both negatives from the left and right to the negative sub line out?
2: What is the sub shield and do I need to use it?

Thanks !!!
 
You shouldn't need your LOC. You should be about to go straight from the line out of the head unit to the line in of the amp.
2. The shield normally connects to the outside foil on shielded co-ax cables. You will probably not need to connect to it.
 
You shouldn't need your LOC. You should be about to go straight from the line out of the head unit to the line in of the amp.
2. The shield normally connects to the outside foil on shielded co-ax cables. You will probably not need to connect to it.

Okay I see. I guess my only question now is, I got my LOC because my amp needs RCA's. My headunit has no RCA outputs. So do I chop the RCA hookups off and direct wire them to the sub outs, And then connect the remaining RCA's to the amp?
 
Okay I see. I guess my only question now is, I got my LOC because my amp needs RCA's. My headunit has no RCA outputs. So do I chop the RCA hookups off and direct wire them to the sub outs, And then connect the remaining RCA's to the amp?

Alternately, you could add RCA jacks to the factory harness. You can get harness adapters, but they are usually for the opposite of what you want to do. The adapters available are so that you can connect aftermarket head unit RCAs to the factory harness and amp.
Note that you should have a connector in trunk that was connected to your factory sub amp. Assuming that your aftermarket amp is in the trunk too, It would be better to pick up the line level sub signal there that at the back of the head unit. I think that the pin-out, location and wire colors of this connector have been posted to this forum before. If you can't find it, I can look it up but it may have to wait till tomorrow.
 
Alternately, you could add RCA jacks to the factory harness. You can get harness adapters, but they are usually for the opposite of what you want to do. The adapters available are so that you can connect aftermarket head unit RCAs to the factory harness and amp.
Note that you should have a connector in trunk that was connected to your factory sub amp. Assuming that your aftermarket amp is in the trunk too, It would be better to pick up the line level sub signal there that at the back of the head unit. I think that the pin-out, location and wire colors of this connector have been posted to this forum before. If you can't find it, I can look it up but it may have to wait till tomorrow.
Okay. Well I suppose I will go purchase a couple of these adapters tomorow. But assuming I don't find any.. would everything work properly if I were to cut the RCA connecters off and direct wire them into the sub outs? And connect the other side RCA's to my amp? Or is the inside of an RCA wire a bunch of different wires intertwined?
 
Yes, it should. The inside wire on each RCA cable is the + signal. Use the outside (cable shield) as the - signal.
 
You should have a connector like this in the trunk possibly.

trunkconnector.jpg


That's the factory rear sub hookup.
I know you can also tap into that.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=73583
 
Okay my system is all installed and working great, but now I have a new problem. Starting a new thread. Thanks to everyone that helped !!
 
Too much time has gone by without an issue. So now my CD changer decides to completely s*** out on me. Did the common things to try to fix it, disconnected battery, pulled fuse etc. It's shot and has all my CD's... yay for me.

Anyhow I'm going to purchase a double din aftermarket unit to replace it with. I don't want to spend alot of money. I would just purchase another OEM unit but the thought of it's notoriously terrible CD changer makes me cringe.

I don't want to spend more than $200. A unit that can play CD's is all I really need. DVD's, MP3's, iPod etc. is not a nessecity for me. (Even though I'd assume most units come equipped with all those features already)

My main concerns are that I want an OEM or clean look, and also want something that won't be a wiring nightmare. I am under the impression that my car has two speakers per door, two subwoofers in rear deck, as well as two tweeters on each side of the center console. This makes me concerned about wiring an aftermarket unit. Especially with steering wheel controls.

So I guess if anyone is using an affordable setup right now that is easily compatible and simple to wire/configure could you please post the model of your unit?

Also, I won't be using the factory subs, I have a single Alpine type R 12".

I know that Joegr made a writeup on his recent installation that looked great, but I didn't price it and I have a feeling it would be out of my range. As well as the fact that I believe his was a navigation model prior to his install.

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks guys and God bless.
 
You state you have a amp right? , and I'm assuming this amp is powered by the battery right? And this is assuming that it's a aftermarket amp, how is it that you missed the fuse box that sits just behind the battery that's located in the trunk,

The stock subs sits in the rear package tray, and are not true subs, but mid woofers which sounds real nice when they are firing,

Heck I have worked on a many of cars, and never knew one marginal COP will destroy all in time, if left in for to long. Lol

Welcome to LVC. YOU can and will learn a lot about your car here. I have went from " I know what I'm doing to" I'm open open for suggestions in that past few years dealing with the LS

WELCOME to the group.
 
You state you have a amp right? , and I'm assuming this amp is powered by the battery right? And this is assuming that it's a aftermarket amp, how is it that you missed the fuse box that sits just behind the battery that's located in the trunk,

The stock subs sits in the rear package tray, and are not true subs, but mid woofers which sounds real nice when they are firing,

Heck I have worked on a many of cars, and never knew one marginal COP will destroy all in time, if left in for to long. Lol

Welcome to LVC. YOU can and will learn a lot about your car here. I have went from " I know what I'm doing to" I'm open open for suggestions in that past few years dealing with the LS

WELCOME to the group.

I should have started a new thread. And my issue pertained to fuse 18 in the passenger kick panel, not in the trunk. But thanks and yeah there's a lot to learn from here.
 
Wiring in this car is actually easy...

Buy the right wire harness, then wire it right up and plug it in, the OEM subs are just as easy to get to work, you don't need to even hook them up if your running a real sub (when running a real sub, I recommend removing them completely, giving a good un-insulated path for the sound to travel through and extra height for a box). plan on losing the center effect speakers as no aftermarket head unit with have a channel to properly utilize them. and a steering wheel adapter is very easy to wire in (just four or five wires that need to be tapped into)

The biggest problem you're gonna run into is finding a radio that looks OEM enough for you, as most brands are going for a rather aggressive look to target the youths out there.

Doing it yourself will save quite a bit of labor, dash kits can usually be found for as low as $10, $5-10 for a wire harness, a bit over $50 for a steering wheel control adapter (I really like the Metra ASWC) and then the radio itself. good basic ones can be had for around $100 easy.


Things I would recommend it having:

a dedicated subwoofer output with level control either for the OEM or an aftermarket sub

a HPF or High Pass Filter. this will filter out all the bass that the sub plays so the internal amp can focus on only mids and highs (much cleaner and clearer sound)

Steering wheel compatible (not all radio will even work with SW controls, half the radios from most good brands should have no problem)

adjustable colors display/buttons. not to be girly about looks, but a huge part of it looking OEM is making the colors of the buttons perfectly match the rest of the dash. otherwise is will it will stick out like a sore thumb at night...


pretty much all radios that have those features will also have USB for ipod or M3s on flash. I know its not something you're looking for, but nice to have, hell give it a try, you might be surprised at how much you like it. AND having as much as 20-50 full CDs on one $15 flash drive that can never get stuck inside a radio again... and is way easier to access and find VS multi CD changer.

also a lot of radios in that price range will feature Bluetooth. again while not something you're looking for, it really is a nice feature that bring the car into todays age... the two biggest benefits to this would be just having your phone automatically connect to the car every time you get in is nice and also help to keep it safe on the road... even if you the kind of person that "never talks while driving" its still nice just to be able to see who is calling you incase it might be important all with out ever removing the phone from your pocket, and if it is, just press one button and start talking to them just as safe as if you were talking to someone in your back seat. second would be if you do have a smartphone, it makes it a lot easier and cheaper to get navigation in the car. just connect through BT Audio, turn on and set the nav app, and then just start driving with guided direction spoken to you (also works great when combined with the next feature). and my favorite smartphone feature is Pandora radio. if you never used it before, its highly personalized radio stations tailored directly to what you like and dislike, oh yeah, and its free.


as far as good easy to use radios that fit feature wise both sony and pioneer make very good cheaper radios for about $100 without the BT (sony CDX-GT575UP, pioneer DEH-5600HD), and $130 with the BT(sony MEX-N5000BT, pioneer DEH6600BT).


standard CD decks are going to be the hardest to be looking OEM, but most touch screen models can look just as good (if not better) than the factory nav system! for instance, have the AVH-3600bhs and love it, great sound, and even though its frame frame is black instead of silver, with the silver dash kit, it really doesn't look that much different from a OEM nav system... while that one is quite a bit out of your price range, it does have a "little brother" (AVH-X1500DVD) that just doesn't have Bluetooth (or HD radio, which I could really care less about) and can be found pretty easily right now on clearance (it is a 2013 model but the new version looks exactly the same and is 99% the same inside) for a little over $200.


might be worth looking into.
 
Wiring in this car is actually easy...

Buy the right wire harness, then wire it right up and plug it in, the OEM subs are just as easy to get to work, you don't need to even hook them up if your running a real sub (when running a real sub, I recommend removing them completely, giving a good un-insulated path for the sound to travel through and extra height for a box). plan on losing the center effect speakers as no aftermarket head unit with have a channel to properly utilize them. and a steering wheel adapter is very easy to wire in (just four or five wires that need to be tapped into)

The biggest problem you're gonna run into is finding a radio that looks OEM enough for you, as most brands are going for a rather aggressive look to target the youths out there.

Doing it yourself will save quite a bit of labor, dash kits can usually be found for as low as $10, $5-10 for a wire harness, a bit over $50 for a steering wheel control adapter (I really like the Metra ASWC) and then the radio itself. good basic ones can be had for around $100 easy.


Things I would recommend it having:

a dedicated subwoofer output with level control either for the OEM or an aftermarket sub

a HPF or High Pass Filter. this will filter out all the bass that the sub plays so the internal amp can focus on only mids and highs (much cleaner and clearer sound)

Steering wheel compatible (not all radio will even work with SW controls, half the radios from most good brands should have no problem)

adjustable colors display/buttons. not to be girly about looks, but a huge part of it looking OEM is making the colors of the buttons perfectly match the rest of the dash. otherwise is will it will stick out like a sore thumb at night...


pretty much all radios that have those features will also have USB for ipod or M3s on flash. I know its not something you're looking for, but nice to have, hell give it a try, you might be surprised at how much you like it. AND having as much as 20-50 full CDs on one $15 flash drive that can never get stuck inside a radio again... and is way easier to access and find VS multi CD changer.

also a lot of radios in that price range will feature Bluetooth. again while not something you're looking for, it really is a nice feature that bring the car into todays age... the two biggest benefits to this would be just having your phone automatically connect to the car every time you get in is nice and also help to keep it safe on the road... even if you the kind of person that "never talks while driving" its still nice just to be able to see who is calling you incase it might be important all with out ever removing the phone from your pocket, and if it is, just press one button and start talking to them just as safe as if you were talking to someone in your back seat. second would be if you do have a smartphone, it makes it a lot easier and cheaper to get navigation in the car. just connect through BT Audio, turn on and set the nav app, and then just start driving with guided direction spoken to you (also works great when combined with the next feature). and my favorite smartphone feature is Pandora radio. if you never used it before, its highly personalized radio stations tailored directly to what you like and dislike, oh yeah, and its free.


as far as good easy to use radios that fit feature wise both sony and pioneer make very good cheaper radios for about $100 without the BT (sony CDX-GT575UP, pioneer DEH-5600HD), and $130 with the BT(sony MEX-N5000BT, pioneer DEH6600BT).


standard CD decks are going to be the hardest to be looking OEM, but most touch screen models can look just as good (if not better) than the factory nav system! for instance, have the AVH-3600bhs and love it, great sound, and even though its frame frame is black instead of silver, with the silver dash kit, it really doesn't look that much different from a OEM nav system... while that one is quite a bit out of your price range, it does have a "little brother" (AVH-X1500DVD) that just doesn't have Bluetooth (or HD radio, which I could really care less about) and can be found pretty easily right now on clearance (it is a 2013 model but the new version looks exactly the same and is 99% the same inside) for a little over $200.


might be worth looking into.

Wow thanks for all the info Loud, just what I was looking for. I'll take some time and check those models out, but at least now I know that I'm looking at $60-$100 in wiring adapters and installation alone.

Judging by the fact that I'll be having $300sh into putting something clean in, I may just take my time and suffer with the standard radio until then. I must say I'm incredibly pissed about my CDs though. I better be able to get them out.

Thanks again man
 
I must say I'm incredibly pissed about my CDs though. I better be able to get them out.
shouldn't be much of a problem... most ford 6 disc are very easy to take apart. however to make it easy, you really must destroy the changer. there are a lot of very small parts and disassembling it screw by screw will take forever. its pretty quick to pull the top off, then peel back layer after layer of the elevator assembly.

Thanks again man
no problem, let me know if you have any other questions, different models, brands, whatever.
 

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