2004 Lincoln LS 3.9L Overheating !! NEED HELP!

Yep!!! Funny enough after my final attempt to bleed it, it now isn't overheating.. at least not right now. Still no coolant comes out of the bleed hose. Not one drop. Even if I unscrew it have running it up and down the street until its over 200 degrees.
 
You have the heater ON when bleeding,right? That bleed hose will bleed the heater. don-ohio :)^)
 
barryt83 said:
Yep!!! Funny enough after my final attempt to bleed it, it now isn't overheating.. at least not right now. Still no coolant comes out of the bleed hose. Not one drop. Even if I unscrew it have running it up and down the street until its over 200 degrees.
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It may start overheating again after a cool down cycle or three (air can get sucked in).
 
I am minded to say nyah, nyah, nyah, nyah. Or perhaps neener, neener. :):):):)I had/have contact with a group running a Jag in road racing. They were good enough to give me an all-aluminum set-up off the front of one of their used-up engines. I won't make use of it until I do my projected engine swap later this summer (I hope, I hope) and I'll have to put an extra hose-barb on it to do all the hooking-up necessary for an LS...

KS
 
if the needle moved above dead center, it was already overheating...
 
Sounds like you're going to be back on track with the advice in this thread - helped me as well when mine started overheating last year. Thermostat was replaced and it was fine until a few weeks ago when the coolant pipes/hoses running around the lower part of the motor started to leak (metal rusted and a hole formed). Took 5 days to get it from Ford but all is good now.
 
I was able to dig into the cooling system today. Upon dis-assembly . I found a chunk missing out of the valve cover on the drivers side. The missing chunk looks to be the connection for the pcv tube. I think this explain my rough idle. Its been sucking air this entire time. I found a bolt missing on the intake manifold. It was the one closest to the driver on the drivers side. The threads on the heads were jacked up, but I was able to chase them with a tap and they look like they will hold now. Now here is the kicker on the cooling system...... THERE WAS NO THERMOSTAT!!!!!!!!!! The area was empty. Would this cause it to overheat?
 
No, that wouldn't (necessarily) cause overheating, but it's a sign of an unaware shadetree attempt to fix overheating. Beware other gotchas on the car.
 
Not likely to overheat,but it has the air in it,right? So THAT is gonna make anything overheat. The water pump will lose prime,so circulation is lessened.
The main thing is to fix it right with all Ford parts and it should bleed okay. don-ohio :)^)
 
Well all the plastic parts are being replaced. No other weird issues other than those listed. I have heard of cars with pressurized systems overheating with out a thermo.
 
In older cars,I never saw it. But the fans weren't electric and pulled air all the time. The later model cars(since maybe 1975) should always have factory spec'd thermostats because of the electrical interactions that made for proper tuning.
Gas mileage will suffer even in older cars if no thermostat is used. don-ohio :)^)
 
barryt83 said:
Well all the plastic parts are being replaced. No other weird issues other than those listed. I have heard of cars with pressurized systems overheating with out a thermo.
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I think that the theory is that some cars move the water through the radiator too fast for it to cool off.

Anyway, your car isn't overheating because there is no thermostat. Instead, there is no thermostat because your car was overheating and someone with no clue somehow thought that would fix it.
 
No thermostat will cause the car to take a really long time to warm up, if it ever does. I don't know what your mileage is, but when you get this fixed mileage should improve because you will go to closed loop a lot sooner. And, the computer uses engine temp as one of the variables to decide how much fuel to put in the cylinders. When the engine is colder than expected operating temp, it runs rich.
 
Telco said:
No thermostat will cause the car to take a really long time to warm up, if it ever does. I don't know what your mileage is, but when you get this fixed mileage should improve because you will go to closed loop a lot sooner. And, the computer uses engine temp as one of the variables to decide how much fuel to put in the cylinders. When the engine is colder than expected operating temp, it runs rich.
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So hypothetically speaking... no thermostat on an overheating car does what?

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
So hypothetically speaking... no thermostat on an overheating car does what?

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
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The engine will take much, much longer to warm up. In the winter the engine may never warm-up. At best it's a short term band-aid.
 
It points towards other issues, like perhaps a plugged radiator, failed fan, air where it doesn't belong, a blockage inside a cooling passage, running overly lean, too hot a range on the spark plugs, ect. It could even be something as simple as a plastic bag or other debris sucked up between the radiator and AC condenser.
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
So hypothetically speaking... no thermostat on an overheating car does what?

_-_ IG: KID_LYRICS _-_
Click to expand...

Nothing at all. You are removing a valve that is already wide open when the car is overheating, so it makes no difference.
 
How in gods name to hook remove and reinstall this lower coolant recovery tank hose. I for the life of me cant get to it.
 
Ok did some reading and found out how to do it. Second question, I am going to head to the junk yard to get a valve cover. The bolts on the side closest to the fender seem almost impossible to get to. Whats the trick with those?
 
Well besides needing to replace the valve cover because of my obvious pcv leak, I think my overheating issue is gone. I replaced all the cooling system part minus the hoses. They looked to be in good shape. During my journey I found that the intake manifold was missing a bolt and that the hole was semi stripped. I ran a tap down the threads to clean them up and then went to lowes and picked up the proper threaded bolt and cut it to the right size and threaded the shank to the right length. It tightened up pretty good, but I'll keep my eye on it. I also found stripped threads where the piece between the tb and the manifold connect into the manifold. Again I chased the threads and the bolt tightened up fine during re assembly. The real kicker came when trying to bolt the TB back on that piece before the intake manifold. The top two holes had ****tly done heli coils that were falling out and that bolts wouldnt tighten up..... At this point it was about 11pm, but I realized it was either try something and ruin the part and then got to the junk yard in the morning or just go to the junk yard. I decided to experiment with some items purchased at my friendly neighborhood walmart. I bought a 1/4 nch drill bit 2 wall anchors (happen to be very long 1/4 inch bolts) and some 1/4 inch nuts. Came back home and drilled through the threads out the other side and then added a bolt and tightened it down. I know its pretty redneck, but didnt have to many options. Bleeding went well. It now works like the instructions say it should. I drove the car all over stopping and going and the temp stayed between 206 and 220. This was with the a/c on and off and the heater on and off. Ill try it in some real traffic tomorrow, but I think the LS is good to go.
 
Dang, I've not worked on a car past 9PM in over a decade. Good on yer!

Reason? I can't stay awake past 10...

I wouldn't worry about rednecking repairs on the LS. Parts availability is getting to be a problem.
 
Here is the repair!

WP_20160424_14_52_01_Pro.jpg
 
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