2004 LS not start

D

drewster2005

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Hello everyone. I have been lurking for a little while now. I just had my 1st problem with my LS. Looking for some input.


I went to start my car and I get nothing. The lights (dash) all stay on until I try to start. If I have my headlights on they dont dim or anything. Its almost like it doesn't recognize me pushing the brake pedal. But I can see my brake lights activate.


Somethings I have tested.

Bat Voltage is at 12.6v
The key has been tested to see if the chip is still working.
The Anti Theft light stays off.
The car wont start in park or in Neutral.
No click or it wont turn over while trying to start.



Please help. Thank you.
 
How did you test the key?
The PATS light should come on solid when you turn the key on, then go out as the engine is starting. Is it not coming on at all?
Have you checked the starter relay? The PCM relay? Battery voltage while the key is turned to start? Voltage at the front fuse box? Voltage at the "B" terminal on the starter? ...
 
I had a locksmith test the key with his computer.

The Pats light is on when I 1st put the key in. Then everything in the car goes dead when turning to the start position. But the headlight will stay on.
The battery doesn't change when trying to start. Maybe drop a .3 or so. But not like its pulling much.


I have had this happen 3 other times. If I let the car sit for 5-6 hours, it will start with no problem.
 
I had same issue previous, it had happened spontaneously no clic nothing and it was actually my starter solenoid. It just crapped out, if u can get under neith it, with key in on position, jump the the solenoid leads with a screw driver big Enuff to touch both leads together , sparks will jump but it will start the car if it isn't pooched, or it will click if it's time for a new one... Located passenger front under the car. Hope this helps. I had exact issue with my old Ls
 
Are you saying to jump the starter or just the starter relay?
LSE8 said:
I had same issue previous, it had happened spontaneously no clic nothing and it was actually my starter solenoid. It just crapped out, if u can get under neith it, with key in on position, jump the the solenoid leads with a screw driver big Enuff to touch both leads together , sparks will jump but it will start the car if it isn't pooched, or it will click if it's time for a new one... Located passenger front under the car. Hope this helps. I had exact issue with my old Ls
Click to expand...
 
It will have 2 leads on it, cross them with a screw driver... Key on, it should either start from the direct power or it will only click... Which means u need a new one
 
drewster2005 said:
...The Pats light is on when I 1st put the key in. Then everything in the car goes dead when turning to the start position. ...I have had this happen 3 other times. If I let the car sit for 5-6 hours, it will start with no problem.
Click to expand...

So, now we get more information, including that this isn't your first problem. What else are you holding back?

You have a loose connection somewhere. I'd start with the major cables in the trunk and work my way forward. Measuring the voltage at the "B" terminal of the starter while the key is turned to start, and measuring the voltage at the hood fuse box while the key is turned to start will tell you (or at least us) a lot.
 
I mention that in the 1st post. No lights on the dash, radio, all go blank.
joegr said:
So, now we get more information, including that this isn't your first problem. What else are you holding back?

You have a loose connection somewhere. I'd start with the major cables in the trunk and work my way forward. Measuring the voltage at the "B" terminal of the starter while the key is turned to start, and measuring the voltage at the hood fuse box while the key is turned to start will tell you (or at least us) a lot.
Click to expand...
 
Warning lights, message displays, DTAC, and the radio blanking are all normal when you turn the key to start, "Then everything in the car goes dead when turning to the start position" is not normal.
There are more connections to check than just the battery post clamps. Do you want help with this? How about the voltages I asked for?
 
Had mine not want to crank twice like this moved the shifter around and it started. I need to adjust it. The second time it started with the shift lever almost in between reverse and neutral. Not its working fine again.
 
Alex, I'll take "What needs a new starter" for $200
 
Lol, like I said, same exact issue I had. not to bad to change the starter on these.
 
Ok. Found the problem.


When I tested the battery, I only tested for Voltage. Never check to see what the Amperage was. The battery Amperage (CCA) was almost none. What was happening is, I had 12.5 volts, which show a good battery, you put a load the voltage never moved. Because the amperage was not enough to allow to start with a load. Plus the previous battery was already lower on CCA's. Now I replaced it with the correct battery and now its starts just fine.
 
Good deal, glad we didn't play the DAILY DOUBLE.

Vent tube!
 
For a car with a battery under the hood maybe but for one that keeps it in the trunk? Up to you.
Kinda odd how your dash wasn't dimming down when you tried to start on the old weak battery, gauges should have been freaking out.
 
drewster2005 said:
I was told with this "new" style battery no vent tube needed.
Click to expand...

You were absolutely 100% told wrong!

Whatever battery you got was not the "correct" one.

All car batteries (even AGM) vent hydrogen. AGMs are better in that they usually only vent when over-current (short) or over charged (bad regulator in alternator). Both of these things do happen.
 
and venting into a trunk is only asking for trouble with respect to all fuse box and wiring corrosion, not to mention hazardous to your health, they can't fix big BOOM accidents at the hospitals very well.

The OM states clearly the battery in the trunk requires to be of a vented type, should have picked up the OEM battery for it.
 
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