2006 lincoln ls harmonic balancer

Do let me know if you find a good deal on some.
Any year (2000-2006) V8 should be the same.
In theory, you'll need a new bolt too.
 
coleio1 said:
...Any idea on size of bolt?
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It's not as simple as that. It's specifically designed to stretch (just one time) by the right amount when it is correctly torqued in, so that it won't ever come loose. You need the exact correct bolt. Fortunately, you can get them from the dealer now.
The bolt is XW4Z-6A340-AA
You might as well get a new washer too, XW4Z-6378-AA

The correct way to tighten the new bolt:
Install a new bolt and tighten in 4 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Loosen 2 complete turns.
Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31010.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
Funny as it is, I was about to put up a post asking what the problem/deal was with the later models having issues with this.

Can someone give me some insight as to what is causing this. Is there way to prevent. And can this be checked out to tell if it a problem? Thanks.
 
It seems to me like the layer of rubber between the inner and outer parts of the damper fails. Maybe they had a bad batch of it?
Mine isn't too bad. The rubber has shrank a little, and when it is cold the outer part of the damper wobbles a little. This is on my 06. The 04's damper is perfect. Ford's problems with this covered dampers for several engines, not just the LS.
 
joegr said:
It seems to me like the layer of rubber between the inner and outer parts of the damper fails. Maybe they had a bad batch of it?
Mine isn't too bad. The rubber has shrank a little, and when it is cold the outer part of the damper wobbles a little. This is on my 06. The 04's damper is perfect. Ford's problems with this covered dampers for several engines, not just the LS.
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Can you see it without removing anything to inspect? And would the 05 V8 likely be in the possible category?
 
Crank vibration damper separation is nothing new under the sun. Other manufacturers have had similar issues. The inner and outer metal parts get bonded to a rubber ring. The rubber will fail due to esposure to heat (from engine and from vibrations), engine fluids, chemicals from the road, etc. Take look at tires. Even if tires sit in a garage they will eventually dry rot and crack. Oils and chemicals that keep the rubber together evaporate. Most reputable tire shops will not install tires older than ten years due to liability.

Once the outer ring separates the damper doesn't dampen sufficiently (or at all) and should be replaced. If oem parts aren't available (which is weird as I thought the manufacturers had to support a vehicle for 20 years from date of manufacture by federal law), there are other companies such as fluidamper and ati which may be willing to make a small batch of product with an upfront payment.

Also, the outer ring drives the water pump, ps pump, ac compressor and fan pump.
 
Ford had a shortage of dampers (as repair parts) for a little while as they were fixing the problem. The damper for the LS is available new again, but it is over $700 from Ford (retail is over $1K). In the worst case, the damper comes apart and does a lot of damage. In the case of the LS (and many others) you also loose the water pump, alternator, power steering, and AC.
 
jgscott said:
Can you see it without removing anything to inspect? And would the 05 V8 likely be in the possible category?
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Yep. Open the hood and look down just behind the radiator. It's the bottom pulley (and in the center). It should spin perfectly smoothly. If it's going to be a problem, it will be one when it is coldest.
 
I am wondering what the effect is on the rest of the engine's lower end when the harmonic balancer has a " slight " out-of-true rotation?
 
How do you know when the balancer needs to be replaced?

I've never had to replace one before... as far as I know.
 
does anyone have a picture I have a 06 and want to prepare if this is a issue and replace it asap or get rid of the car
 
chocolat1701 said:
does anyone have a picture I have a 06 and want to prepare if this is a issue and replace it asap or get rid of the car
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How long have you had the 06? It's very likely that if you had a defective damper, you would know it already. What do you need a picture for? There's only one shaft with a pulley on it that comes out of the lower front center of the engine. You can't miss it.
 
I just bought one brand new for 350 and put it in today, it spins perfect. The youngest your lincoln could be is 11 years old. You are supposed to replace it every 6 to 8 years
 
My damper is definitely wobbling. I have a serine belt issue when the engine first starts. I think the two are related.
Sleeper, where did you find the new one for $350 ?
 
NH_LS said:
...Curious, I'm imagining that I'll need to hold the crank somehow for loosening and reinstall. Is there a slick backyard trick for this, or will I need to buy a 3.9 specific flywheel lock?
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There is no lock. You'll damage the flexplate if you try to hold it from that end. The factory manual says to use a chain wrench on the pulley.
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

There is the generic trick of using a long socket handle wedged against the ground and bumping the starter, but that one makes me nervous.
 
joegr said:
There is the generic trick of using a long socket handle wedged against the ground and bumping the starter, but that one makes me nervous.
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I've done this three times now in my life and all three times I was nervous as hell!
The third time was today, I could not get a good grip on the pulley while changing it out so I resorted to this trick again.

I had planned on using my breaker bar but could not find it... will be taking that up with my sons when they get home from an out of town drift event this weekend… so I used an old torque wrench that I've had for who knows how long. It's missing the end dial lock piece on it anyway. I also did not, nor have I ever used the ground, always the frame rail. In this case there is a hole that worked perfectly for this.. Using a short extension, an adapter and a shallow socket ended up spacing it out almost perfectly and the length of the handle was just what was needed.

The following pic is post starter bump and after I removed the old towel that I used to support and keep it in place. Not that it needed it because the socket fit so well that it did not even try to fall. But a little extra support can't hurt. All it takes is the absolute minimum movement of the starter.

LSCrankBreaker.jpg



Oh and yes I did see the clamps and they have been fixed. Funny thing is that as many times as this has been to the dealer for RM, no one has ever fixed or even mentioned it before.
 
I have an 06 with 125k miles. I turned the engine on today after changing the oil and I noticed the harmonic balancer does not run true. I wouldn’t call it a wobble, but I can see how someone else would. No noise or issues, but the belt did have a groove that looked like it was worn. The belt has about 15k miles. I changed it last year. Is this a sign that I should change the pulley?
 
joegr said:
Yes
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Thanks joegr. I decided to swap it out while I overhauled the cooling system. Figured it’d be easier to do while I had the radiator and intake off. I found one from a 2005 with 170k miles for $30 shipped. I got lucky I found it
and just in time. Looks like the rubber was acting like the lobe on a camshaft and that’s what was causing it to wobble.

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