2007 Jaguar STR Brakes Confirmed

[FDR]

Lenny at Motorsport-tech said the thinnest they could make with the second lip is 10mm. I'm gonna try the 5mms for now because I don't want to get into replacing studs. If the hub really is larger than 5mm, then I won't worry about it (I'm not near the car and can't measure myself). If not, well there are plenty of forum anecdotes of spacers being fine. It's only temporary anyway and I'll keep my speed under 80

 

[1LoudLS]

I would not use any spacers that were not hub AND wheel centric. it will be next to impossible to get the wheel centered right when putting them on (you will have a terrible vibration when driving)

and since our lug nuts are a flat style, they wont work to center the wheel on the hub as you tighten them...

 

[FDR]

Supposedly, according to Lenny and I think Eibach, the hub sticks out more than 5mm. That doesn't sound right, but lip height isn't something I've considered before, and I'm back at school so I can't check until Thursday at least.

Zeus wheels grow on me more and more. I used to think they were too close to the stock Sport 5-spoke, but they look good. Clean style, subtle beefy appearance. They might be the only OEM Jag wheels I'd consider since I'm pretty set on 18s if OEM. But Barcelonas do look better...

http://www.allfactorywheels.com/ has Zeuses for $152 each, either width. $730 shipped to my door. Barcelonas jump up to 277 each, 1200 shipped. That [almost] guaranteed fitment is tempting, but tires are expensive and could easily turn this into $2k in wheels, $2500 with brakes.

Plus, I don't like spending money twice. My plan was to buy nice wheels with summer tires and keep the stockers with all seasons or winter tires, then get winters, then do the brakes, so I don't want to be "stuck" with one set of decent all seasons and pay again later. Then again, that thinking is what got me here in the first place. My caliper was sticking, so why buy a replacement when I can upgrade? I hate me sometimes. I hate this rabbit hole I constantly throw myself down. That's why she's named Alice.

When does my career start? I'd like to have more fun money, please. I should get my resume together since it's now internship application season

 

[DeviLSh]

FDR we are in the same position. My front left caliper is making a ton of noise (groaning) so I do not want to bother replacing when I can do the Jag STR upgrade. But with stock 17's and their incremental cost of 18"+ wheels and tires to go with it are holding me back from the upgrade. To spend the $$ on OEM brakes now, when I will most likely get the Jag brakes and larger wheels eventually would be a waste of current funds. We really are our own worst enemies...

Even our two wheel considerations are similar - I think the Zeus' are a good buy (did allfactorywheels give you a shipping quote for you to arrive at that number of $730?) but like you I also like the Barcelonas. They are made by BBS too, which makes them a decent alternative to new aftermarket wheels. The concavity and design of the barcelona is more sophisticated but I like the whimsical approach to a STR Zeus being on an LS, and the design fits the era of car a littler better. As you stated, it is also a nice alteration of the oem LS 17" 5-star. so that look is retained.

Do you happen to know the weight of the Zeus or Barcelona? I just weighed my Stock 17" wheel/tire combo last night and it came in at 48.5#. Reduction in unsprung weight is always good, maybe that will help you sway your decision in which wheel to choose.

What field are you looking to intern in?

 

[FDR]

I believe Kumba reported the S-type Sport 326mm rotors fit in the front. Same caliper, different pads/rotors/bracket. That might be enough for you, but I'm stupidly hooked on the 15"/365s now. Looking back, though, I don't think spending the money twice is ever actually an issue since it takes so long for me to do things anyway (for various reasons)

Yes, the $730 is the delivered price. $152x4 in wheels, ~$70 in shipping, ~50 in tax

Concave wheels are my favorite, which is why the Forgestar F14s are so attractive. I can't can't can't stand convex/bowl/collander wheels. They just scream Pep Boys Special to meI was also interested in Niche Targas, but I saw an LS with 19" Targas and stock rear brakes and was thoroughly disappointed. But now I'm going with the bigger brakes ahead of schedule... I'd prefer 18s, but I hear Targas, at least, have undersized barrels, so they may not clear 365mm fronts. I'm going to have to get some measurements from someone with those. At least then there's a larger crowd of StR owners to pool from

No idea about the weights. Admittedly, it's not a concern for me.

I'm going to school for mechanical engineering technology (mech engineering lite with less calc, no DiffEq, and more hands on learning)

 

[FDR]

The hub sticks out 7mm, but the wheels have a bevel on the bore that recedes 3mm, meaning a 5mm spacer won't work. As stated before and confirmed in about 4 seconds, the mag-style lug nuts have quite a lot of room to move in the wheel and won't center the wheel. A 3mm spacer may work, but you start to question if it's even worth it at that point. I guess the spokes and calipers really aren't going to move so it should be fine, but this is just such a concerning thing for me because I have so little knowledge here. An impact hard enough to smack the spokes into the caliper or a pothole large enough to bend the rim would probably destroy much more than just the wheel and brakes

It looks like replacing studs isn't too bad with the proper tool. Maybe longer studs and 10mm spacers are in my future. Maybe not.

 

[xford]

Finally got around to getting the proper spare to clear the STR Calipers. Got a great deal IMO at around $100 shipped from e-bay - spare still has nubs and appears never driven on. Also got new shoes -245/35ZR-20 BFGOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S XL - highly rated at Tire Rack - I like the tread pattern and noise level/reponsiveness

 

[FDR]

Any particular reason for going with the StR spare instead of a fullsize wheel?

 

[xford]

Any particular reason for going with the StR spare instead of a fullsize wheel?

If you mean vs. a Jag Senta knock off it would just be a weight and cost thing. Also not sure of the fitment in the spare tire well but I am sure it would be close as the Jag STR spare has about the exact same outer diameter as the BF Goodrich's. Significantly lighter and less expensive, however, and I have had relatively good luck in avoiding flat tires - knock on wood...

 

[FDR]

I'd just feel happier with any used Jaguar rim with a regular tire instead of a spare tire with speed and distance limitations, but I can understand putting more value in weight and cost since used Zeus rims go for $150 alone without the tire. I've never used my spares either, though

 

[DeviLSh]

For anyone that has done this recently - I am on rockauto and the A1 carodne #'s appear to have changed from what was more recently posted.

FL: 193894
FR: 193895

Pictures show a caliper w/o the bracket, but the description states: "w/ install hardware". Before I order, I wanted to see if anyone has ordered these and could confirm if the carrier bracket is included or not. (I will also email Rockauto).

Second - does anyone have a part# for the fron caliper bolts from Jaguar? Was gonna run to the dealer if I cannot find online.

Thanks

EDIT: Pretty sure the "B" in the part number indicates a bracket is included.

 

[LS4me]

For anyone that has done this recently - I am on rockauto and the A1 carodne #'s appear to have changed from what was more recently posted.

FL: 193894
FR: 193895

Pictures show a caliper w/o the bracket, but the description states: "w/ install hardware". Before I order, I wanted to see if anyone has ordered these and could confirm if the carrier bracket is included or not. (I will also email Rockauto).

Second - does anyone have a part# for the fron caliper bolts from Jaguar? Was gonna run to the dealer if I cannot find online.

Thanks

EDIT: Pretty sure the "B" in the part number indicates a bracket is included.

I would think "install hardware" are clips and things of that nature. I'd put money the bracket is sold separately.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

For those interested... IIRC,,, you can upgrade the front of the LS to the standard S-Type 13" rotors and calipers. Those SHOULD fit inside the 17" wheels. There's an old thread somwhwere around here that discusses it.

 

[DeviLSh]

Second - does anyone have a part# for the fron caliper bolts from Jaguar? Was gonna run to the dealer if I cannot find online.

For Anyone who wants to order the Jag bolts - they are Jag Part #: C2D27400, M12x35mm, $8/ea. I ordered from: Terry's Jaguar @ www.terrysjag.com

 

[DeviLSh]

I have now completed the full F&R '07 STR swap, using a mix of new and re-manufactured parts. I ran into some issues/mistakes/bad luck during the install which delayed me finally getting the car on the road. But I have it back now, and my god do these brakes feel fantastic. The bite is still a bit soft initially, but once you get on the pedal this car halts to a stop. Similar thoughts to what others have said, but the car feels as if it shed substantial weight. Very impressed with the results, would recommend to anyone looking to overhaul their brakes and looking for a good performance upgrade. Please remember these brakes are bigger and therefore heavier.

Problems I encountered:
TAKE NOTE - as others have noted, there are nubs on the inside caliper brackets that will touch the rotors. (At least mine had them) Like an idiot, I did not notice until my first drive, and assumed the noise was pad break in/dust shields, took < 1/8 mile before I had done the damage. File these down, and test the rotation before getting the car on the ground.

Take it easy on the brake banjos, and the bleeders. This goes without saying, but I managed to strip the Front-Left caliper's banjo upon install. Causing the need for thread repair (helicoil insert). After that was repaired, I began bleeding, and managed to also strip the Rear-Right bleeder. So I also had that repaired, twice - as it still leaked after the first. Maybe its because it is my busy time of year at work, and I was under stress, but i was being pretty careful and managed to damage both calipers which were "new" reman'd units. So be careful!

Here is the pricing breakdown - All parts were for Jag STR 2007:
Front Calipers - Ebay- "PhD Car Parts" - Centric 141.20028 and 141.20027 - $340
Rear Calipers - Rockauto - 19-B3899 and 19-B3898 - $290
Rotors - Centric 125.2002 & 125.2002 - Rockauto - $265
Pads - Centric Semi-Met. 104.10950 & 104.12402 -Rockauto - $ 60
SSLines - (LS) Centric 950.61006 & 950.61503 - Rockauo - $130
Rear Caliper Stiffening Kit: TyrolSport - #: TSRCSVW - $110
Front Caliper Bolts (4) - C2D27400 - Jaguar - $ 16
Fluid - $ 20
Total -----------------------------------------------------------------------> $ 1,231


Still a great price point if you do your own work, as this involves replacing everything but the master cylinder. And I overspent on the stiffening kit and lines. It can be done for cheaper, but availability of the parts seems to be getting a bit more difficult. Especially the rear calipers.

Onto some Pictures - Tried to add to this thread some more comparisons, but nothing too new here to see other than the stiffening kit. (love these by thew way, they were too small for the front, but they fit in the rears. The company had some oversized units in stock that fit nice and snug into the rear guide holes. Should help with uneven pad wear and pedal feel.

Parts ready:

Rear installed:

Front details:

Comparisons: LS vs STR

Extra stopping power comes at a cost... Rears were within 1-2lbs of LS stuff. About 26# per rear corner, if I remember correctly (no pic of rears weighed, sorry)

Clears the 18x8,et 45 just barely up front, and easily in the rear. Fills the area nicely.

Tyrolsport Caliper stiffening kit: In short, these are machine bronze inserts for caliper guides. They reduce unwanted caliper flex found on ATE style calipers. They come with hightemp dust caps and snap rings. More info @ www.tyrolsport.com

Rears BARELY clear the oem wheel:

And some shameless plugs Thanks to Dwiggy for pioneering this, and all the others who posted info in this thread. very helpful, and great upgrade.

Additional notes -
1 - ebrake (gen2) no modification necessary for install
2 - SS lines were for LS, worked on Jag parts fine.
3 - Banjo and bleed holes are all M10x1.0 on the Jag parts.

 

[RodLS]

Finally after 7 years I get around to doing this. I wanted to do this mod since dwiggy first posted about it but I didn't have the funds or time. When I did have the funds I went and bought an Evo X and the LS was relegated as a backup car. Now many years later the LS was about due for a brake job and one of the calipers had developed a nasty creak. Perfect time do to this upgrade.

I found these calipers on ebay for a 2011 Jaguar XJ non supercharged for $125 plus shipping. The plan was to strip them completely down to rebuild and refinish them.

Aircraft paint stripper took most of it off.

The remaining paint and rust was removed with wire wheels.

Disassembled, cleaned up, and ready for paint.

I went with VHT Nu-Cast Iron and clear coat.

Decals from ebay.

Fronts installed. The spring pieces that have the decal plate are very difficult to get on without messing up the new paint.

Rear done.

I have the StopTech SS brake lines from many years go but I didn't like the routing for the rear lines with these calipers. It was really close the the wheels (one side was actually rubbing) and control arms. The front lines were a bit short, at full lock they are stretched fairly tight. So I replaced them with OEM Jaguar SS lines. The Jaguar lines are a bit expensive but I think it's worth the peace of mind.

The front now isn't stretched.

The rear is mostly hard line.

Got to have the orange 18" spare.

They fill my 19" Volvo Vulcanis nicely.

Overall I'm mostly satisfied with the upgrade. The pedal still initially feels mushy, there is probably no way around that. Once you get past the mush they have some serious stopping power and its repeatable. The factory brakes would overheat too easy.

Thanks to dwiggy, jmtiseo, xford, DeviLSh, and others for all the great information needed to do this.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

If the pedal feels mushy... then you probably still have air in the brake system.

 

[RodLS]

If the pedal feels mushy... then you probably still have air in the brake system.

I doubt it. I bled them several times to see if that was the issue. The problem is the first 1" or so of brake pedal travel doesn't do a whole lot. Compared to other vehicles you got to push the pedal a lot farther to get the initial bite.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Did you use a scan tool to open the ABS solenoids? If not... probably still air in system.

The problem is the first 1" or so of brake pedal travel doesn't do a whole lot.

Sounds to me like you are compressing air in that first inch.

 

[RodLS]

No I didn't, never thought of that. I think forscan can do it, I'll have to give it a try.

 

[rgorke]

No I didn't, never thought of that. I think forscan can do it, I'll have to give it a try.

Were you able to get your pedal less mushy? I just replaced my fronts and would like to get my pedal a little tighter.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

You'll probably have to get a scanner good enough to open the ABS solenoids... and then you can bleed it like a normal vehicle.

Dealer only charges $100 for a pressure bleed... but they might not touch it due to the Jag brakes.

 

[rgorke]

You'll probably have to get a scanner good enough to open the ABS solenoids... and then you can bleed it like a normal vehicle.

Dealer only charges $100 for a pressure bleed... but they might not touch it due to the Jag brakes.

Thanks...my pedal is pretty good... better than it was before I did the switch. The trick now is finding the logo plate for the rear brakes. Part number is C2P12429.

Also, I found in the Jag manual where is shows how to remove and install the front logo spring plate as to not screw up the paint. I’ll try and post the pictures...


3 . Apply protective tape to the caliper.
4 .
CAUTION: Removal of the clips is a delicate procedure, damage will occur if any force is used.
Apply heatshrink or protective tape to the end of the screw-driver.

5 .
CAUTION: Removal of the clips is a delicate procedure, damage will occur if any force is used.
Remove the anti-rattle spring.
6.
Lever the anti-rattle spring in the center of the spring until either side is released.
CAUTION: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang on the

 

[FDR]

Thanks...my pedal is pretty good... better than it was before I did the switch. The trick now is finding the logo plate for the rear brakes. Part number is C2P12429.

Also, I found in the Jag manual where is shows how to remove and install the front logo spring plate as to not screw up the paint. I’ll try and post the pictures...

Hmm, my rear don't have those screw holes for that plate. Interesting

I take it the main point of the Jag instructions are "make everything less scratchy". Since I only found my caliper color (grabber blue) in a 2-part can and not an aerosol, I'm probably going to end up accenting the scratch areas in black next time I need pads. I suppose some gloss clear would help as well to mitigate flaking when I break the seal against the pads and springs

That being said, the G2 2-part caliper paint seems to be holding up very well so far, though it's only been on for about 3 months. First time using a brush instead of spray

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Thanks...my pedal is pretty good... better than it was before I did the switch.

When I bled the brakes after the 320mm install... I get brake activation within 1/2" pedal travel... and it's firm.