2007 Jaguar STR Brakes Confirmed

T-Money said:
nice music, no really haha

and these are going to look sick
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Haha thats just what was playing on the radio. Not really my cup of tea either.

and thanks dude.

hite337 said:
Im so jealous....Those looks sweet mlara
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Thanks man, I can't wait.

I'm thinking about putting a few kits together for you guys on here. I'll see if its worth my while.
 
mlara1129 said:
Stock 17s will def not clear the calipers. I checked. Thats why i can't get them on immediately. Still need $$$ to powder coat and get tires for my Barcelonas :(
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Gotcha. Hrmm... I wanna do this but I wont have new wheels till next spring. Maybe Ill just do the brake lines for now...
 
How much room do you need? You could get a 3-5mm spacer to clear stock wheels.
 
Alax7 said:
How much room do you need? You could get a 3-5mm spacer to clear stock wheels.
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I dont think spacers would cut it. Its the top of the caliper that rubs on the wheel not the "face," caliper doesnt rub on the spokes. In other words (dont know if theres a proper word for this) the wheel needs more diameter to clear...if that makes any sense.
 
How much? Maybe you could grind away a small section if only a small portion of it rubs. Measure the center of the wheel to the inside edge of the wheel, then measure the center of the hub to the edge of the caliper and see if the difference is minimal. Dont be scared to get your hands dirty.
 
Nice! I skipped doing the BBK this time. Next time hopefully. Some expenses came up. Love the silver barcelonas.
 
Alax7 said:
How much? Maybe you could grind away a small section if only a small portion of it rubs. Measure the center of the wheel to the inside edge of the wheel, then measure the center of the hub to the edge of the caliper and see if the difference is minimal. Dont be scared to get your hands dirty.
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Not a good idea IMO. The calipers are part of the vehicle's unsprung weight, and minimizing unsprung weight is even more important than sprung weight as it has a direct effect on ride quality and handling. One pound of unsprung weight is the same effect as 7 pounds of sprung weight, if I remember correctly. Therefore the OEM will already have cast the calipers to the minimum weight possible and still be able to handle the high pressure the caliper handles on the inside. Grinding on the calipers might also set up a stress point that might cause the caliper to crack in a hard stop. Since he already has the wheels he wants to run he'd be better off to go ahead and wait on the calipers until the wheels and tires are ready. I'm all for modifying your rig and making changes, sometimes just for the sake of change, but not where safety gear is concerned.
 
Just saying as an option for those who want them and use stock wheels in the winter. No winter fo rme plus I'm going with brembo rears which barely clear 19's, def wont clear 17's, so this doesn't apply to me.
 
Got the most important part in from my recent order from RockAuto (Sarcasm, I'm waiting on lower ball joints). Reman'd from Centric. Don't expect to get "R" emblems on the rears as I look into making my own to fill the gap. Do expect to get a ricey looking caliper bracket. Trying to decide on color to paint or powder coat. About $180 to powder coat everything.

IMAG0017_zps4d275458.jpg
 
Over the past month or so I decided to take the plunge on this brake swap. I'll do my best to include all my findings, shortcomings and experiences as this was quite the ride.

Going to start with the parts list. Mind you, this was done with all new or remanufactured parts under the assumption that compatible parts are for a 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R. Some parts from Jaguar XF's might work but I did not investigate that.

Brake Calipers:
2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Calipers Front:
Part Number: 19B3895 (19-B3895) (A-1 Cardone/RockAuto.com) - $120.89
Part Number: 19B3894 (19-B3894) (A-1 Cardone/RockAuto.com) - $120.89

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Calipers Rear:
Part Number: 14120530 (141.20530) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $160.79
Part Number: 14120529 (141.20529) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $159.79

Notes: Prices include the core charge. All calipers come with brackets, slide pins, slide pin boots, bleeders and brake pad hardware. Rear calipers come with banjo bolt and crush washers. Front calipers only come with crush washers.

Brake Lines & Hardware:
2000 - 2006 Lincoln LS Stainless Steel Brake Lines Front:
Part Number: 950.61006 (Stoptech/R1Concenpts.com) - $89.99

2000 - 2006 Lincoln LS Stainless Steel Brake Lines Rear:
Part Number: 950.61503 (Stoptech/R1Concepts.com) - $89.99

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Brake Lines Rear:
Part Number: XR843132 & XR828045 (Jaguar/Jaguar of Troy) - $78.97

Notes: Banjo bolts that come with Stoptech SS lines will not work in Jaguar S-Type R calipers. In my case the front calipers did not come with banjo bolts, you will need to purchase the rear brake lines for 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R, get them from a very rare parts car or make them yourself. The STR rear brake lines are a few inches too short so this makes for a very expensive banjo bolt. From my couple nights of research, you can not purchase just the banjo bolt and the front lines which may be usable, does not illustrate an included banjo bolt.

Brake Rotors and Pads:
2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R OE Replacement Rotors Front Set:
Part Number: EOE.20024 (R1Concepts/R1Concepts.com) - $160.98

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R OE Replacement Rotors Rear Set:
Part Number: EOE.20024 (R1Concepts/R1Concepts.com) - $123.98

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Ceramic Brake Pads Front Set:
Part Number: 16-1240 (Power Stop/BuyBrakes.com) - $66.09

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Ceramic Brake Pads Rear Set:
Part Number: 16-1095 (Power Stop/BuyBrakes.com) - $41.92

Notes: These are OE replacement rotors that will simply get the job done with no flair. I opted out of getting the ones that were zinc coated with painted hats and vanes and regret it. The first rain and they're showing rust. Initially brakes are quiet and dust is non-existent using this combination of pads and rotors.

Brake Fluids:
1L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: WAG FC120839 (Wagner/Auto Value Parts Stores) - $9.64

2L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: 706202 (ATE Type 200 Amber Brake Fluid/TireRack.com) - $30.00

1.5L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: 1204204 (Pentosin Super DOT 4 Brake Fluid/Motorwerks) - $24.75/$126.28

Notes: I bought enough fluid to fill and bleed the system at home with the help of my brother. After we were done the brake pedal was still a little spongey so I took it to Motorwerks of Commerce Township, MI to perform a brake flush, fill and bleed which cost $126.28. For those in the area, I highly recommend them.

Misc. Items:
Engine Enamel GM Satin Black:
Part Number: SP139 (VHT/Autozone) - $6.99 x 4

Paint Prep Spray:
Part Number: PS100 (Dupli-Color/Autozone) - $7.99

Brake Cleaner:
Gratuitous amounts of brake cleaner.

Stainless Steel Brush

Paper Towels

Notes: These parts were all for painting the calipers before installation. The only thing I would have done different is paint after mockup/modifications to the brackets (see install notes) and used more paint. I would suggesting using 1 can per caliper and bracket and follow the directions. I started off by scrubbing with brake cleaner, then wiping with the prep spray. Tape everything you don't want paint on for example the caliper piston, boot, e-brake mechanism and slide pint boots. Follow the directions for spraying. I then baked them after a day of drying time at 200 degrees for one hour per VHT's recommendations. The smell is more than tolerable as it does not exhibit a heavy chemical smell. I decided to paint them myself to save $200 in powder coating cost and the frustration/chance of breaking parts while disassembling the calipers.

Total cost: Including parts w/ tax, shipping and discounts plus labor for brake flush, bleed and fill I was out about $1300.
​



Install Notes - Mounting Brackets:
After you have gathered all your parts be sure to mock-up. The front and rear calipers had to have nubs ground down to create clearance between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket. These nubs will be obvious when you mock-up.

Install Notes - Mounting Bracket Bolts:
You can either buy 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R front caliper mounting bracket bolts or carefully cut the LS bolts as they're too long. I did this by installing the bolts into the LS caliper mounting brackets and cut off the bolt lead plus one thread. After this the bolt, when installed, was flush with the S-Type R caliper mounting brackets. Installing the bolts in the old caliper mounting brackets, cutting and then zipping them out helps maintain/correct the thread form so you can thread them into the S-Type R caliper mounting brackets. This only needs to be done to the front bolts, the rear bolts clear the rotors.

Install Notes - EPB (Electronic Parking Brake):
Unlike earlier in this thread on a Gen. I LS (2000 - 2002), a clevis pin will not be needed for the parking brake cable to attach to the rear calipers on a Gen. II LS (2003 - 2006. They are a direct fit. With that said, after I was done with the install, I had an issue with a "Service Park Brake" in the message center. I am unsure as to what caused this but after consulting joegr's professional advice, I concluded that the EPB was working but it needed to "self adjust" due to the change in rotor and pad thickness. Reason being, The EPB would engage or actuate but would get to a certain point in the "squeeze" of the rotor and then stop and reset throwing the error message. We believe this is because the EPB thinks it is overloaded prior to reaching it's specified lock position.

This issue resolved itself two days later. To my surprise going through my vehicle park routine I pulled the e-brake lever without an error message. The error message hasn't come back since, except for leaving my buddies house the 5 days later. Stop, park, turn off car, restart, neutral, set park brake, park, turn off car, restart put in gear and the message was gone. Not that this is a reset procedure but that's what I did and it didn't come back after that occurrence. Perhaps this is the interference from an early failing DCCV but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Break-In Notes Per Power Stop Break In Procedure:

"IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.

The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 or 6 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 or 6 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally."


Final Notes and Thoughts:
I've had my car now for 50,000+ miles. I was unsure of when and what kind of brakes were installed on my car but they worked fine except for the acceptable slow speed groan when coming to a stop and a groove in the back of one of my rotors.

After proper break-in and brake flush and bleed, these brakes will throw you through the windshield. During the break-in process with a slightly spongey pedal my rear seat flew open. It was locked but maybe not completely, but still. The brakes have good bite with minimal brake depression and are quiet from initial braking until complete stop. I don't track or continually aggressively brake my car so I can not comment on brake fade. Dust so far is minimal if not non-existent. The pedal feel is firm after minimal brake depression and I can definitely feel that it will take less effort to engage ABS if I really need to bring the car to a stop fast.

The reason I went with the rotors and pads the way I did is because I'm hoping this is the last set of brakes I do and I want them to last without the potential of cracking, being noisy, or dusty. I painted the calipers black and went with blank rotors to maintain a stock look without dipping into the bowl of rice too much. Different strokes for different folks.

Lastly, they fill out a 20" wheel nicely. Use Dwiggy and Mlara's before pics for reference. I'm trying to get involved in the car scene in my area a little bit more but it's dominated by tuners. I figured the only fast the LS is going to be is at stopping.

IMAG0077_zpse9a667d0.jpg


Special thanks to Dwiggy for the initial help and answering my questions. He did this brake swap with parts off of a parts car so he didn't have to go through some of these problems.

Special thanks to joegr for continuing to spill the knowledge on LVC. I asked him about my EPB problems and although he didn't know for sure he gave a best guess at what was wrong and was quick to respond even though it wasn't an LS specific question/concern.
 
Need moar pics!!!

Good job dude you certainy pulled this off quick. You did a lot of leg work for me lol So far this had only been done on a gen 1, so i figured there could be some issues on gen 2s. I was actually considering not doing rears so i didnt have to mess with any possible EPB issues. Thanks a lot. Might bug you when im ready to do mine.

So noticeable difference in stopping then?
 
When you're motivated by an LS meet you're motivated to get game changing projects completed. Too bad the meet never happened but at least it motivated to get this done in a timely manner.

Very noticeable stopping difference, at least from older stock brakes to these big sumbitches. You might be able to do without the rears, but considering the rear rotors are larger than the stock front rotors, you're going to have a serious size difference front to rear.

When I feel comfortable I might see what happens when on dry pavement and locking 'em up. Will get more pics when the weather is nice and I do calendar shots, if I do calendar shots.

Any questions, send me a pm.
 
cubanocelso said:
Are these?? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2039282&cc=1434529
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Those should work. I can't attest to what's included because they're a different manufacturer. My fronts were reman'd by A-1 Cardone, the ones you have listed are from Centric. After checking they may not come with the mounting brackets. The part numbers I have listed include the mounting bracket, they also sell a variant that doesn't include the mounting bracket. You need the mounting bracket.

When shopping for calipers, the availibility is going to be the biggest obstacle. It may look like it's available but when you proceed to checkout or even after placing the order you may get a phone call or email saying that the order can not be shipped because the parts are not available.
 
Nice work.

As for your parking brake error, I'll put my money on it just needed to recalibrate/adjust to the new calipers like joe said.

It happened to me as well.

When I had my calipers power coated, I did not noticed that on one of the rear calipers, the power coat has cause the spring to stay closed half way, half of it was "glue" together and only half would extend. This cause a different travel for each side. When I would use the parking brake on my slanted driveway, it would move back tiny bit on one side due to this, like it was only holding one rotor and not the other. It bugged the hell out of me but i could not figure out my issue, I just thought the caliper was damaged. A few weeks later, I was under my car when I realized the spring was stuck when I was moving the normal working paring brake lever and noticed how much it would travel, so I pulled on the other side hard and broke the powder coat off to my surprise, I thought I had broken something when it snapped. I turned the car on and got a parking brake error, I thought I made it worse. Disconnected my battery and reconnected it, I could hear the parking brake travel farther now, now that it had recalibrated itself to the original travel. After that the parking brakes worked as should, holding tightly on both sides evenly.
 
Banjo Bolts and Mounting Bracket Bolts

I recently found a great deal on a set of 07 STR calipers on Ebay so I am going to do this upgrade in the Spring once the weather clears up and the massive pothole problem around here is fixed. As for the mounting bracket bolts being too long, I just went to the Jaguar dealership and the ordered the correct ones. It cost less than 5 dollars for all four of them. Like jmtiseo said, the banjo bolts in the stainless steel line kits will not work. They are the correct size, however the threads are different. I did some searching and found ones that will work. They are identical in size to the ones that come in the kit and have the correct threads. Here is the link: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ24572?source=mybuys&green=270C5783-4C13-5CD8-98CC-213CA31D04D0

You may be able to find them cheaper if you look around. I paid more for mine because I had them shipped from the UK. I found these ones after I ordered mine.

Thanks again to dwiggy, mlara, jmtiseo and everyone else how contributed to this thread!
 
Thanks for the link JrT I'm getting on this train as well and was looking for the proper bolts.
 
The final piece for the brake swap came today. This is the 18 inch spare from the STR. The LS spare won't fit with the bigger brakes. The roads suck here so flat tires are common, I expect to get a few this spring. Now all I need is for the weather to warm up.

Spare.jpg

Spare.jpg
 
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