'99 Lincoln Continental Refurbishment

Before using brake parts cleaner, I would try blowing out with an air gun.
That said, if it is cooling correctly, then I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I would drive it for awhile, getting it good and hot.
Of course keep an eye on the level.
A small puddle somewhere won't just evaporate, and may take awhile to burn off.
At least that’s been my experience.
 
Just use your garden hose water to rinse everything down (block/head area) when engine is cool, trying your best not to get ignition coil cover wet, nor the ignition coil wiring looms wet (wiring that goes under the cover on valve covers that connects to all coils; they can get brittle where they enter under the cover and wire can be exposed), nor any sensors wet as it might cause issues until evaporated.

Then go and drive it for 30 minutes, preferably at a higher constant speed 45mph+. That water should displace/dilute any old coolant and water will evaporate. You can hand dry anything that's reachable before driving. Anything else will just evaporate from the heat/air going around the engine.

Also, if you still get coolant smells down the line, keep an eye on the overflow bottle including any rubber hoses to and from it, keep an eye on system pressure (sometimes a fin in a row on a radiator corrodes a row and you end up with a very TINY spritzing that might only occur at full system pressure and only coats the fins which have the fans constantly pulling air, making it tough to see and the leak takes forever to get the overflow bottle low i.e. it takes forever for the radiator to get low enough it siphons the overflow bottle low). If the smell gets strong IN the car, it can be a heater core.
 
FlaOkie said:
Before using brake parts cleaner, I would try blowing out with an air gun.
That said, if it is cooling correctly, then I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I would drive it for awhile, getting it good and hot.
Of course keep an eye on the level.
A small puddle somewhere won't just evaporate, and may take awhile to burn off.
At least that’s been my experience.
Click to expand...

Exactly I just kept cleaning the areas best I could. The cooling system is right where it should be. Plus it's not using any coolant, so I think everything is good. I agree that it'll take awhile to burn off.
 
Sincoln said:
Just use your garden hose water to rinse everything down (block/head area) when engine is cool, trying your best not to get ignition coil cover wet, nor the ignition coil wiring looms wet (wiring that goes under the cover on valve covers that connects to all coils; they can get brittle where they enter under the cover and wire can be exposed), nor any sensors wet as it might cause issues until evaporated.

Then go and drive it for 30 minutes, preferably at a higher constant speed 45mph+. That water should displace/dilute any old coolant and water will evaporate. You can hand dry anything that's reachable before driving. Anything else will just evaporate from the heat/air going around the engine.

Also, if you still get coolant smells down the line, keep an eye on the overflow bottle including any rubber hoses to and from it, keep an eye on system pressure (sometimes a fin in a row on a radiator corrodes a row and you end up with a very TINY spritzing that might only occur at full system pressure and only coats the fins which have the fans constantly pulling air, making it tough to see and the leak takes forever to get the overflow bottle low i.e. it takes forever for the radiator to get low enough it siphons the overflow bottle low). If the smell gets strong IN the car, it can be a heater core.
Click to expand...

I cleaned everything well, the only thing I still have to clean a little better is the backside of the intake. It's hard to access back there. I'll re-clean that over the winter. I placed rags over the injectors and electrical components. I also put plastic sheets over the serpentine system so it won't saturate the belt. The de-greaser from Pyroil is good stuff it really cleansed everything well.

Today I took it out and I think the coolant smell is slowly lingering away. No check engine lights, no smoke/steam. The car runs very good.

I think I'm going to buy a new cap for the recovery tank. They are 16 lbs. and only cost $15.00 or so. I have that on my list for next week. Thanks dude.
 
Has anyone ever experienced when using the lock and unlock buttons on the drivers door, if you press the lock button, it will lock then 1/2 second later it unlocks again....? Mine did that the other day.

I'm thinking it might be the actuator inside the door. It is riveted inside the door, gonna have to drill those out. Maybe it is maybe not. We'll see. I know that lincolnelite has a write up in his DIY facebook page. I was studying it for a little bit. A new actuator is around $85.00 or so.

Wanted to see if anyone has ever had this issue?
 
I bought mine with the sensor unhooked (didn't know) for the driver's door ajar sensor, which is right behind the door card and connects to the internal latch. When I reconnected it, all was fine briefly, then it started doing the same thing.

It apparently thinks the door is "open" and will refuse to lock. Think it had to be moving OR in gear to get the issue to happen i.e. it thinks the car is moving with an open door.

I sprayed some lube (think it's a graphite-type lube) liberally in the door latch area from the outside, making sure the straw was angled in towards the sensor. That worked. IIRC, had to do the same thing with my Mark VIII. If that doesn't work or doesn't last, replace the door ajar sensor.

On mine, it was the driver's door. Suppose the passenger doors could cause the same thing, dunno. Pay attention to any door ajar warnings and go from there.
 
This is from the Owners Manual.

"SMART LOCKS
With the key in the ignition, in any switch position, and either the driver’s or passenger’s door open, the doors can not be locked using the power door lock switches."

I don’t know if this is what you are experiencing.
 
Sincoln said:
I bought mine with the sensor unhooked (didn't know) for the driver's door ajar sensor, which is right behind the door card and connects to the internal latch. When I reconnected it, all was fine briefly, then it started doing the same thing.

It apparently thinks the door is "open" and will refuse to lock. Think it had to be moving OR in gear to get the issue to happen i.e. it thinks the car is moving with an open door.

I sprayed some lube (think it's a graphite-type lube) liberally in the door latch area from the outside, making sure the straw was angled in towards the sensor. That worked. IIRC, had to do the same thing with my Mark VIII. If that doesn't work or doesn't last, replace the door ajar sensor.

On mine, it was the driver's door. Suppose the passenger doors could cause the same thing, dunno. Pay attention to any door ajar warnings and go from there.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'm gonna re-spray everything. I have PB Blaster, and WD. If I can find the graphite lube I will. Your right about it thinking door is open to refuse to lock. That makes all the sense in the world.

Thanks Dude!
 
FlaOkie said:
This is from the Owners Manual.

"SMART LOCKS
With the key in the ignition, in any switch position, and either the driver’s or passenger’s door open, the doors can not be locked using the power door lock switches."

I don’t know if this is what you are experiencing.
Click to expand...

Never knew that, come to think of it I believe my keys were in the ignition when I tried using the buttons on the door. Making them act like this. I'm going to place lubricant on the latches just for preventative maintenance.

With as much electronics on these cars, you always think "Oh $hit you have to replace and take all this apart for that component".

Dude your rock! Thanks! Thank God this site has dudes like you.
 
There is not a strong smell of coolant anymore. That in between nook and cranny clean up did the job.

Coolant level is where it should be. Not using any coolant.

No leaks either. What a big relief this is. Very happy right now. Got the Cheshire Cat grin.
 
Just got done spraying lubricant on the door latches too. Think we're in the clear now.
 
This morning had an appointment at my local auto care facility.

-Did a complete oil change using Motor Craft 5W 30. Wanted to get the 5W 20 out, its a little too thin for this old school OHC 32V.
-Used a Wix PRO-TEC oil filter which has the anti-drain back valve. (Change oil every other year in this car, in my position)

-Changed the fuel filter, a new Motor Craft filter was installed. Part# E7DZ*9155*A (For everyone's reference)**

-Battery charging was checked. Came back some what low. Recommend replacing with a new battery. Can charge battery for 20-30 mins. go from there.

*-They had diagnosed my suspension problems. They informed me that both lower ball joints are bad, and a new outer tie rod on the left. The right tie rod was replaced awhile ago. Might have them replace the right tie rod for piece of mind possibly. Need to perform an alignment afterwards. (Will be getting an estimate for this) They said I can go for 10K and be fine. Tires will start to wear funny. So I'll get this procedure completed next year for sure. *Will inform others of a round about price range in case LVC members need this done. Car will be in winter storage soon, so cruising a couple more times wont hurt.

*-I was also informed that I may have a slight rear main seal leak. They had told me to not worry about it for now, everything looks real good. It's just a wetness film so far. They found that the oil pan gasket might need replaced as well. Currently I am getting an estimate for this too. I will post what the round about number is for those that might need this completed.

Coolant, Trans fluid, Brake fluid, Air filter all where in great condition.

Lastly this shop also pointed me toward The Muffler Man locally where I live for a custom bent 2.5" exhaust system. I'll go out there next year for a quote.
 
Nice update. Thanks Svet. I know have some suspension issues up front too...tie rod(s) or ball joints. So your cost to get those done will be of interest.

I think I used another brand of fuel filter last time around....but I'll write down the M/C one you mentioned. Looking to do a trans filter pan drop within the month. Not sure if the original one was ever replaced. My fluid looks fairly good at 43K miles so I'm assuming they did a trans fluid change back around 25K-30K miles.
 
When you put it in winter storage, put on a small battery maintainer.
It will keep the voltage at the proper level and extend the life of the battery.
I use them on my Continental, motorcycle, and generator.
Or better yet move to Florida and you can drive it year around - no winter storage here.
 
Firebrian said:
Nice update. Thanks Svet. I know have some suspension issues up front too...tie rod(s) or ball joints. So your cost to get those done will be of interest.

I think I used another brand of fuel filter last time around....but I'll write down the M/C one you mentioned. Looking to do a trans filter pan drop within the month. Not sure if the original one was ever replaced. My fluid looks fairly good at 43K miles so I'm assuming they did a trans fluid change back around 25K-30K miles.
Click to expand...

It's good you want to drop the pan change trans filter. Afterwards, I would take the car to get the fluid fully extracted with that special machine that pushes old fluid out, and puts new fluid in at the same time. Doing this will get the fluid out of the torque converter. Remember do trans fluid changes on the Continental every 15K for optimum transmission performance.

*I was talking with the technician who was working on my car. I was explaining that when I am ready to replace the stock trans with a better built one, like a Jasper or XP Performance I believe. I'll upgrade the Torque converter to a LuK Schaefler it locks up real good, along with a TransGo shift kit. He went on to say that if you want to do that the trans will be removed and we can replace that rear main crank case seal. Kill to birds with one stone. So that is a win win situation. Keep this in mind if you need a trans job. I'll let everyone know the cost and time and ect.

Wanted to post this for you so you can get a better idea on how to do a pan drop. That way you are ready and have all the tools all at once. This video is by 1A Auto on a 2000+ Taurus:
 
FlaOkie said:
When you put it in winter storage, put on a small battery maintainer.
It will keep the voltage at the proper level and extend the life of the battery.
I use them on my Continental, motorcycle, and generator.
Or better yet move to Florida and you can drive it year around - no winter storage here.
Click to expand...

You know its funny, cause I bought a Deltran Battery Tender around 2010 or so. Works great. Matter of fact I hooked it up yesterday for about 9 hrs. and it was a little over 90% charged. It should be OK for now. This battery is 11 years old in my car, its a Duralast. I didn't think it would be good for this long, but damn. I have a whole different perspective on certain Duralast products.

X2 on moving to Florida. I wish it was a better time to move to an entire new state. Someday it will be.

I hope you and dfoy are OK and doing good in your state since hurricane Michael blew through. You dudes are in my prayers.
 
So I have noticed some corroded bolts around my air intake, and battery box. I will be scrubbing the painted areas, and waxing too. If I can't find replacement bolts, I'll sand down, or use some sort of rust remover, then repaint bolts in silver anodized paint. I'll let you all know where you can find these bolts. More on this soon.

I'm also going to replace my coolant cap on the recovery tank, with a factory 16 lb cap.

Still trying to find out which free hosting site for pics is better. Any input would be appreciated. I've looked into post image.com, and flikr.
 
So I began to look at additional things that I wanted to clean up around the engine bay. Right where the drivers side fender under the battery tray, fuse relay, and air intake I had noticed corroded bolts and washers. I had taken these out and placed them in a container with Apple Cider Vinegar. This naturally dissolves any corrosion on the metal surface. They had sat in this solution for about a week. They had turned black, so I had polished them up with some Never Dull metal polish. This is a simple way to clean up bolts and nuts, so you don't have to buy any. In my case they don't make these anymore in OEM. Restoring them is cost effective and simpler.

Here are the photos of the bolt locations I had taken out this includes the side intake bolts around the battery box, fender support bolts, and the bolt that holds the battery tray into the fender well (Photo is what the clean bolts and nuts look like) :
IMG-0195.jpg


In the above image you can see the fender bracket and battery bracket I had taken these out and gave them a good cleaning and waxing:

IMG-0191.jpg



Next photos include everything clean and waxed, got out the shop vac to pick up any minor pebbles and such. Took out the security sensor on fender to hood, cleaned and waxed. These are 8 mm bolts. The battery tray bolt toward bottom is a 10 mm, fender bracket bolts and upper battery tray bolts are 8 mm for reference:

IMG-0187.jpg


Battery tray washed and cleaned/detailed and inner fender well, along with fuse box :

IMG-0190.jpg


Bolts and nuts corrosion free and polished (The nuts are 8 mm they go on the shock towers on both passenger side and driver side :

IMG-0194.jpg
 
I had picked up a 16 lbs coolant recovery tank cap at Autozone. The part # is: 082373 7038 Duralast For those who need one.

IMG-0192.jpg
 
Good work Svets.
I don’t have much in the way of rust – but I did jazz up the front valve cover with chrome acorn nut covers. I like chrome.
vc.jpg


I’m now in the process of masking off the carriage top in prep for a spraying of Raggtopp sealer/protectant.
 
FlaOkie said:
Good work Svets.
I don’t have much in the way of rust – but I did jazz up the front valve cover with chrome acorn nut covers. I like chrome.
View attachment 828571020

I’m now in the process of masking off the carriage top in prep for a spraying of Raggtopp sealer/protectant.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

That looks awesome with those chrome nut covers FlaOkie.

Where did you get those from? Are they right hand or left hand thread? What type of nut covers are they: #10, #8 ect.? Thread size? Both nuts on the cam cover and the spark plug cover: Sizes?
I would like to get these for my engine. Much appreciated.
 
Just google “acorn nut covers”---
Summit Racing has them.
I got mine a couple of years ago from California Customs.
They are all over ebay too.
The ones I bought were for ½” and 3/8” hex heads.
I had to modify every one of them by grinding down the inside wall thickness with a Dremel to make them fit.
Maybe I just bought the wrong ones or sizes.
Years ago I bought a bunch for my motorcycle and they all just snapped on and are still in place.
I guess quality control in the nut cover business is not what it used to be.
At least they do add some shine to an otherwise drab engine compartment.
 
I had gotten the front suspension parts to fix the issues that I am having. I get a better price from some people that I know, for me it was a little over $100.00, just to give you an idea as to what you would be paying. If any of you need this repair work.

These include:
2 upper ball joints Part #K8687

1 Tie Rod End link Part #ES3307RL

These are the MOOG brand.

IMG-0205.jpg
 
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