'99 Lincoln Continental Refurbishment

lincolnelite said:
I used the below solar charger for my Navigator (parked outdoors), it's convenient because I just plug it in the cigarette lighter plug and stick the panel inside the windshield. Just unplug prior to starting the car.

Coleman Amorphous Solar Panel Battery Maintainer — 2.5 Watts, Model# 58016 | Amorphous Solar Panels| Northern Tool + Equipment
Click to expand...

Thank you, I'll keep this new product in mind. A lot of others stated they had good luck with the solar panel maintainer.
 
I've noticed on Youtube there are really no videos for Continentals, only Town Car, LS, MKZ, and Navigator. I wish I had the time and camera to document and post videos up. So I had got in contact with 1A Auto they have many car repair videos. I requested videos for 1995-2002 Continentals, so check their channel for updates. If I find them recorded I will post them here in my thread.
 
For awhile I have been looking at getting new wheels. I thought about reconditioning my factory wheels, and or chrome dipping them to look like the '02 Collectors Edition style wheels. I've looked at getting complete new ones through Action crash wheels but they have some what a low quantity. So.........I need everyone's opinion on this....I'm thinking of buying (or eventually buying, saving up for now) Dayton Wire wheels. I am looking at their direct bolt on cross lace wheels, and direct bolt on cross well lace wheels in Chrome. I looked at other after market wheel manufacturers and could not find a good looking set in our 5 x 4.25 bolt pattern 108mm. A lot of them just looked bad.

I even looked at and talked with American racing wheels to see if I can get a set of Torq Thrust II's custom drilled for this model. They could not do it. You would think they would, it would be expensive but would be really bada$$!! Told me we do not have a specific set for your model of car. There goes that idea. Then that's when I started to look at the old school Dayton Wires that can be produced for our cars.

What do you think of this plan?? :)
 
I took the car out for the first time today. Runs good.

Only problem is when I start from a stop when making a right turn, it has a slight grind when it turns? Wondering what this could be......

I have done a quick search some say its a wheel bearing, could be a strut tower bearing, front sway bar link, ball joints, even a CV joint???

Hear is a couple NHTSA and TSB number ID's I have found which now makes sense:

NHTSA #613256 1999 Lincoln Continental TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) | LincolnProblems.com

TSB # 985106 1999 Lincoln Continental TSBs | CarComplaints.com

NHTSA #613056 and TSB# 12078 along with other TSB#'s explained here: 1998 Lincoln Continental TSBs | CarComplaints.com

This cars build date is October of 1998.

I'll create a new thread about this. Just wanted to update my thread with this problem so others can chime in.

Thanks everyone!
 
Last edited:
Everyone FYI!! So I was cleaning around my weatherstripping by the deck lid and to my knowledge I saw what looked to be rust bubbles. Upon further investigation I noticed the weather stripping is sealed well and has holes on top to vent. Well another thing is on the top under the rear window there are snap fasteners on top to hold the whole stripping together. Make sure you take off the weatherstripping and clean thoroughly or it will start to rust on you. Its from all the gunk that gets trapped over time that you need to "flush" out. I applied POR-15 to the tiny rust bubble areas. Then applied some WD-40. I believe this area to be another small area prone to rust on 1998-2002 Continentals.

What it looks like before:
IMG_0058_zps8din4z6m.jpg


Top piece that sticks the weather stripping together in both drivers side and passenger side corners:

IMG_0059_zpsq8hhxmhf.jpg


Applied the POR-15 to the infected areas. Let it dry. Really hard to smooth out the product cause it does run on you:

IMG_0060_zpsa14gtjs8.jpg


Dry time is about an hour or so. Then the next step just snap the weather stripping back onto the area of the trunk.
 
While I was looking over the trunk area I noticed my spare tire cover, spare tire, and jack to be all over the place. So I looked in the owners manual to see about factory assembly it shows how it goes back. ***Also make sure you check the air in your spare tire!! It should have Max 60 PSI. Mine only had about 3 PSI in it. What a nightmare I would have had if I ever needed it. Make note to replace it if its dry rotted or has unusual wear. It is a T125/80 D16.

How the jack and lug wrench look..The J hook that hooks to the metal flap on bottom of compartment goes through the jack. Jack must be raised to fit inside spare, the handle with the hole must align with the J hook it will fit right into middle. Then place the spare tire center so that the J hook goes through then place the Spring onto J hook, place the small metal circle through, tighten everything down with the T-handle tightly. **Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of this. I had to give a how to instead.

IMG_0064_zps7nlgjulu.jpg


Trunk cover now sits flush as it should:

IMG_0065_zpshtfeyitl.jpg


My spare tire, notice some uneven wear and minor dry rot. No rust on rim its like brand new. I will be replacing this eventually:

IMG_0062_zps7hg4fsuc.jpg


This is routine maintenance you'll be happy you did it in the end!
 
Svets96 said:
While I was looking over the trunk area I noticed my spare tire cover, spare tire, and jack to be all over the place. So I looked in the owners manual to see about factory assembly it shows how it goes back. ***Also make sure you check the air in your spare tire!! It should have Max 60 PSI. Mine only had about 3 PSI in it. What a nightmare I would have had if I ever needed it. Make note to replace it if its dry rotted or has unusual wear. It is a T125/80 D16.

How the jack and lug wrench look..The J hook that hooks to the metal flap on bottom of compartment goes through the jack. Jack must be raised to fit inside spare, the handle with the hole must align with the J hook it will fit right into middle. Then place the spare tire center so that the J hook goes through then place the Spring onto J hook, place the small metal circle through, tighten everything down with the T-handle tightly. **Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of this. I had to give a how to instead.

View attachment 828488195

Trunk cover now sits flush as it should:

View attachment 828488196

My spare tire, notice some uneven wear and minor dry rot. No rust on rim its like brand new. I will be replacing this eventually:

View attachment 828488197

This is routine maintenance you'll be happy you did it in the end!
Click to expand...
Ditto on the spare!!! It ended up happening to me on Memorial day 30 minutes before most shops in the area were closing! I was stuck on the side of the road for 3 hours. Thank god Sears was open late and was able to put a tire on for me! I would've had to have it towed 60 miles at my expense if I didn't know someone in the area who was nice enough to take my rim there for me.
 
Damn, on a Holiday of all times! That really does suck, at least you knew someone that could help you. Hopefully the wheel or your car didn't get scuffed up.
 
My lower vanity light near the foot well went out. Very easy to replace, I thought I had to dis-assemble the plastic component to get to the light. That is not the case, just pull the bulb out and push the new one in. Part number is Sylvania #161LL It only costs $5.

Right above the e-brake you can see the black plastic piece, look behind that and you can see the bulb and bulb socket where it lights up the foot well:

IMG_0073_zpsa97cprlk.jpg


Here is the light socket with bulb out:

IMG_0072_zpsuwruqiib.jpg


Here is the light socket with new bulb in:

IMG_0074_zpszatls8a1.jpg


I'll do a write up about this procedure for everyone's view.
 
Throughout the years as I search for things on LVC, I noticed a lot of threads in the Continental section for people looking to create, or ask if there are any aftermarket cold air intakes out there.

So I found this info to be very useful. K&N and Airaid look to have a good process to go about creating your own. K&N has a program in Riverside California that you fill out a survey and they'll put it in their system to keep you posted when and if they place your car for a custom air system, they will take your own car and create a system for it. Airaid has many kits you can buy whether it be a master kit 1 or master kit 2, for the customer to fab up their own. The only thing is they cost $380 on up. One could also get plastic flex pipe to create one. Its up to the owner of the car. Although at least there are options. Wanted to share this info. Maybe down the road I'll dive into this project. I'm saving up right now for other things for the car. Me personally for my car, its worth the money to me. I don't think I'll ever sell mine. Happy Hot Rodding.

Airaid custom kit link: AIRAID Custom Air Intake UBI Master Kits

K&N prototype your vehicle program: K&N Vehicles Needed in Riverside, California USA
 
I’ve used K&N air filters for decades.
The stock type replacement units, not the cold air cones.
I like them because they are quality filters and can be cleaned and reused.
But, as far as I’m concerned, they have gotten so expensive they are no longer worth the cost.
I have a stock type K&N in my daily driver.
The Conti came with a regular pleated filter that looks brand new.
Since it sees limited use, I’ll stick with the pleated filter.
 
K&N cold air intake and/or filters are just a waste of money. stick with your stock setup and paper filter. I have been using the paper filter for more than 10yrs and haven't replaced it yet (I guess replaced it at 2006)

I've tried using a cold air intake on my lincoln ls just because I'm curious about this mod (it's also cheap) and it didn't help at anything besides the look and the noise in the intake.
 
Svets96 said:
While I was looking over the trunk area I noticed my spare tire cover, spare tire, and jack to be all over the place. So I looked in the owners manual to see about factory assembly it shows how it goes back. ***Also make sure you check the air in your spare tire!! It should have Max 60 PSI. Mine only had about 3 PSI in it. What a nightmare I would have had if I ever needed it. Make note to replace it if its dry rotted or has unusual wear. It is a T125/80 D16.

How the jack and lug wrench look..The J hook that hooks to the metal flap on bottom of compartment goes through the jack. Jack must be raised to fit inside spare, the handle with the hole must align with the J hook it will fit right into middle. Then place the spare tire center so that the J hook goes through then place the Spring onto J hook, place the small metal circle through, tighten everything down with the T-handle tightly. **Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of this. I had to give a how to instead.

View attachment 828488195

Trunk cover now sits flush as it should:

View attachment 828488196

My spare tire, notice some uneven wear and minor dry rot. No rust on rim its like brand new. I will be replacing this eventually:

View attachment 828488197

This is routine maintenance you'll be happy you did it in the end!
Click to expand...
where do you even got to replace the spare? mine is about worn out , id be afraid to drive on mine
 
I haven’t had to buy one, but it appears they can be had from any tire store or on ebay.

As a side note -- The spare in my ’02 is a T145/80r16
A tad bigger than in Svet’s ‘99
 
lincolnelite said:
K&N cold air intake and/or filters are just a waste of money. stick with your stock setup and paper filter. I have been using the paper filter for more than 10yrs and haven't replaced it yet (I guess replaced it at 2006)

I've tried using a cold air intake on my lincoln ls just because I'm curious about this mod (it's also cheap) and it didn't help at anything besides the look and the noise in the intake.
Click to expand...

I know, its just cool to tinker around and such. My background is in Product development and R&D so its just natural.

Yea those K&N's clog up the MAF because of the oil. I always stayed far away from those as I can.
 
Svets96 said:
My lower vanity light near the foot well went out. Very easy to replace, I thought I had to dis-assemble the plastic component to get to the light. That is not the case, just pull the bulb out and push the new one in. Part number is Sylvania #161LL It only costs $5.

Right above the e-brake you can see the black plastic piece, look behind that and you can see the bulb and bulb socket where it lights up the foot well:

View attachment 828488764

Here is the light socket with bulb out:

View attachment 828488765

Here is the light socket with new bulb in:

View attachment 828488766

I'll do a write up about this procedure for everyone's view.
Click to expand...

It would be cool to see a write up about vanity light. We will be working on the Lincoln right after we finished installing the Moto metal wheels and new tires on the current truck project. The vanity light on the Lincoln recently went out.
 
This is an excellent thread Svet96. Thanks....I've gotten a lot of help in identifying parts I will need soon as well on my 2002 with 78K miles. I checked out pricing at Tasca and they generally beat the Ford dealers. I noted you replaced the radiator lower air deflector (dam) on your car. That got me to looking more closely at my car...and by George the vertical part has been completely ripped away. I can't recall if I got the car that way or it's something I did over 8 years. In doing some reading up on air dams they create a low pressure area under and behind the radiator to help pull air through it, especially speeds of 30 mph or less. They also smooth out the air under the car to lower wind resistance and improve mpg a small amount. I'm thinking of buying a new one for $65 from Tasca. Mine also has 2 of the 5 mounting tabs broken. I haven't noticed the car's coolant temp running any differently though. But if it can lower the coolant temp closer to set point, that's a big plus, especially for helping to keep the trans fluid cooler.
 
ricker45 said:
It would be cool to see a write up about vanity light. We will be working on the Lincoln right after we finished installing the Moto metal wheels and new tires on the current truck project. The vanity light on the Lincoln recently went out.
Click to expand...

Good deal, can't wait to see the transformation on your Lincoln.
 
Firebrian said:
This is an excellent thread Svet96. Thanks....I've gotten a lot of help in identifying parts I will need soon as well on my 2002 with 78K miles. I checked out pricing at Tasca and they generally beat the Ford dealers. I noted you replaced the radiator lower air deflector (dam) on your car. That got me to looking more closely at my car...and by George the vertical part has been completely ripped away. I can't recall if I got the car that way or it's something I did over 8 years. In doing some reading up on air dams they create a low pressure area under and behind the radiator to help pull air through it, especially speeds of 30 mph or less. They also smooth out the air under the car to lower wind resistance and improve mpg a small amount. I'm thinking of buying a new one for $65 from Tasca. Mine also has 2 of the 5 mounting tabs broken. I haven't noticed the car's coolant temp running any differently though. But if it can lower the coolant temp closer to set point, that's a big plus, especially for helping to keep the trans fluid cooler.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your kind comments. I started this thread on my car to help out fellow owners and members. Make sure you create your thread on the progress on your car and pictures of your car. I'll definitely be subscribing. Tasca is the way to go, they are mainly a wholesaler, so they pass the savings on to you which is always great! The lower air dams do take a beating.
 
If you (or anyone else for that matter) are looking for rims OR tires, try:
Wheels

The details are set for my 99' Continental, but should be near identical for others of similar vintage (update the details to be sure) but gives an idea of what's out there. Most are extremely competitively priced, and look nice. If possible, go for ones that are lighter than stock. Freeing up "unsprung" weight has very nice side effects which benefit heavier cars too.

I bought a set of 4 tires from TR several years back, and IIRC, they shipped from an Indianapolis warehouse which might be a main hub. Think I placed the order on a Thursday and the FedEx truck was at my door Friday afternoon being N/E Ohio is close.

Chrome dipping is VERY expensive bwt. If you are set on chrome factory rims, just look religiously. Can also try a junk yard search engine like car-parts.com. A ton of local and semi-local hits should pop. Getting the yards to look at the rim, and ideally send pics is another story, but most should be willing. Curb rash can be corrected/blended on aluminum rims, but chrome is an issue. Try and avoid rims with outer lead weights as they might have damaged the surface being installed, or might be way out of balance.

Oh yeah, if you get tires from somewhere like TR, make SURE you check around as some shops might have issues installing them (politics).
 
OK so about the Dayton wheels that I was thinking about getting.....Lets just say that they would be a real PITA to even own. To those thinking about getting them for any of their cars think wisely about what needs to be done for maintenance.

Here is why:

1. You need a special tire tool concaved, or convexed to place on the tire machine. Need a good tire shop who knows their Sh*+. Good shops are hard to find.
2. You have to watch which weights you need to have whether a side wall with a hammer approach or a stick on weight on the inside.
3. Cost is over $2,000 for certain style you want. (its up to the owner of the car for this)
4. Every so often you have to break down the tires and "reseal" the center of the wheels with silicone or silicone strips. No thanks!
5. No high speed runs!

So after doing countless hours of research on these wheels I am NOT buying them. Yea they look good but for what you go through, to me, its not worth it. Others have their own feelings about it which is fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 184 (members: 0, guests: 184)
Back
Top