joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
V6 or V8, fan operation should be the same.
A Guide to Electric Fan Retrofit / Swap
- Thread starter oddball
- Start date
V6 or V8, fan operation should be the same.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
I have four or so pre-fab boards ready to go. Still lurking around, PM is the best way to reach me.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
New member here and late to the original thread. First, sincere thanks to the OP oddball and others who've offered solutions to this tried and true problem with the LS sedan.
My problem in need of a solution:
I own the 2000 Lincoln LS V6 3.0L sedan. Fairly low miles at 80,000-ish. Well-trodden problems include coil pack replacements, failed heater, replaced air-conditioner, etc. Current problem is overheating due to a failed hydraulic fan. Dealer replacement is 1210 dollars. After research I decided to try the electric fan conversion and purchased a Flex-a-Lite 180 which the folks at Flex-A-Lite confirm is the right part for the job.
Took the fan to my mechanic (he initially misdiagnosed the overheating problem and replaced all hoses, checked for leaks, bled the system, etc. to the tune of just under 600 dollars). After looking at the Flex-A-Lite he said he can't install it and was wary about the modifications needed to fit the fan in. He also didn't seem knowledgeable about how the included adjustable thermostat would activate the fan or how to modify the shroud. Called around to other mechanics -- I live in a Los Angeles, no shortage of shops -- and no shop I spoke with seems comfortable or knowledgeable about doing the conversion.
My question:
I don't have the tools or knowledge to do the conversion myself and rather than have a third party mechanic (if I could find one) do a shoddy job, would it be better to just replace the failed fan with an OEM and keep everything the same? As you all know the overheating problems are a consistent P.I.T.A and we have an Indian summer in LA with temps rising usually thru October. Is this a difficult job for most shops to perform? Your thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
One additional note -- in addition to the failed fan, besides when in stop-and-go traffic the rise in engine temp seems to coincide when the car misfires, usually in the low gear transition b/w 35-40mph. When the misfire occurred before and I had to replace 3 coils (not knowing anything about coil failures at the time). Is it possible the misfiring can also cause the engine temperature to spike? No check engine lights on yet but the symptoms are exactly the same. Car stutters at 35mpg, temperature jumps above the middle line. Again, thanks in advance to all in the forum.
My problem in need of a solution:
I own the 2000 Lincoln LS V6 3.0L sedan. Fairly low miles at 80,000-ish. Well-trodden problems include coil pack replacements, failed heater, replaced air-conditioner, etc. Current problem is overheating due to a failed hydraulic fan. Dealer replacement is 1210 dollars. After research I decided to try the electric fan conversion and purchased a Flex-a-Lite 180 which the folks at Flex-A-Lite confirm is the right part for the job.
Took the fan to my mechanic (he initially misdiagnosed the overheating problem and replaced all hoses, checked for leaks, bled the system, etc. to the tune of just under 600 dollars). After looking at the Flex-A-Lite he said he can't install it and was wary about the modifications needed to fit the fan in. He also didn't seem knowledgeable about how the included adjustable thermostat would activate the fan or how to modify the shroud. Called around to other mechanics -- I live in a Los Angeles, no shortage of shops -- and no shop I spoke with seems comfortable or knowledgeable about doing the conversion.
My question:
I don't have the tools or knowledge to do the conversion myself and rather than have a third party mechanic (if I could find one) do a shoddy job, would it be better to just replace the failed fan with an OEM and keep everything the same? As you all know the overheating problems are a consistent P.I.T.A and we have an Indian summer in LA with temps rising usually thru October. Is this a difficult job for most shops to perform? Your thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
One additional note -- in addition to the failed fan, besides when in stop-and-go traffic the rise in engine temp seems to coincide when the car misfires, usually in the low gear transition b/w 35-40mph. When the misfire occurred before and I had to replace 3 coils (not knowing anything about coil failures at the time). Is it possible the misfiring can also cause the engine temperature to spike? No check engine lights on yet but the symptoms are exactly the same. Car stutters at 35mpg, temperature jumps above the middle line. Again, thanks in advance to all in the forum.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
The prior work may have been justified. Those parts also fail, also leading to overheating. If there were white streaks or white dusty marks on the parts then they were already cracking.
The fan itself and the pump seldom fail. They do, but it's fairly rare. The most common cause of fan problems is the actuator on the pump. It's a ~$200 part. Still takes an hour or so to install, but a shop would be more willing to do that. The main diagnosis is if the fan spins slowly at all times, or does not have the full range of speed that it should have. A fan that doesn't turn at all is likely a different problem.
Mechanics don't like doing custom modifications - and installing an electric fan on a car that had a hydraulic fan is certainly a modification - because so many things can go wrong. It's a liability nightmare. Plus they would have to figure out how to do it, and most shops are focused on turnaround - not custom work.
A hot rod shop that builds custom cars might be more open to helping. It's not a terribly long or complicated job, but with research and planning is easily 4 to 10 hours. At a good shop rate you're looking at a hefty bill.
Maybe there's someone in SOCAL that can help? You have to make a few decisions:
1) The pump. I haven't spent much time looking at V6's, but what I've seen is the pump pulley MUST stay in place. The v8 can be removed and the belt re-routed, but no such luck on the V6. Leaving the pump has been done a few ways. You have to be careful because just letting it sit there dry will result in it seizing.
2) Fan install. A few guys did a very clean modification of the stock shroud to incorporate the aftermarket fan. This takes a little more work than just strapping the fan to the radiator, but also lets the fan draw from more of the radiator. So it's a good idea, but not essential.
3) Wiring. A suitable install to get power from the car without overloading the existing wiring. There are several ways to do this.
Good luck!
The fan itself and the pump seldom fail. They do, but it's fairly rare. The most common cause of fan problems is the actuator on the pump. It's a ~$200 part. Still takes an hour or so to install, but a shop would be more willing to do that. The main diagnosis is if the fan spins slowly at all times, or does not have the full range of speed that it should have. A fan that doesn't turn at all is likely a different problem.
Mechanics don't like doing custom modifications - and installing an electric fan on a car that had a hydraulic fan is certainly a modification - because so many things can go wrong. It's a liability nightmare. Plus they would have to figure out how to do it, and most shops are focused on turnaround - not custom work.
A hot rod shop that builds custom cars might be more open to helping. It's not a terribly long or complicated job, but with research and planning is easily 4 to 10 hours. At a good shop rate you're looking at a hefty bill.
Maybe there's someone in SOCAL that can help? You have to make a few decisions:
1) The pump. I haven't spent much time looking at V6's, but what I've seen is the pump pulley MUST stay in place. The v8 can be removed and the belt re-routed, but no such luck on the V6. Leaving the pump has been done a few ways. You have to be careful because just letting it sit there dry will result in it seizing.
2) Fan install. A few guys did a very clean modification of the stock shroud to incorporate the aftermarket fan. This takes a little more work than just strapping the fan to the radiator, but also lets the fan draw from more of the radiator. So it's a good idea, but not essential.
3) Wiring. A suitable install to get power from the car without overloading the existing wiring. There are several ways to do this.
Good luck!
grizzlyls
Dedicated LVC Member
Ya I live here in LA area. You will have a hard time finding a shop that will do that. You should have seen me trying to find a shop that wouldnt use the book of 15 hours for replacing the upper tensionors. It was even obvious the book wasnt showing the uppers, but the lowers.
Honestly, it seems alot, but the 1200 for a dealer to do seems a good deal. Look at this way, if what Oddball states for labor is right, you know custom wont do it for less than 10 hours. Here, thats $95 (avg) for a total of $950. Not to mention the handful of add ons and you are at the 1200$!
I look for the most for my money like you, and if you got 200k off the first pump, 1200 for 200k more not so bad.
Honestly, it seems alot, but the 1200 for a dealer to do seems a good deal. Look at this way, if what Oddball states for labor is right, you know custom wont do it for less than 10 hours. Here, thats $95 (avg) for a total of $950. Not to mention the handful of add ons and you are at the 1200$!
I look for the most for my money like you, and if you got 200k off the first pump, 1200 for 200k more not so bad.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
Thanks oddball and grizzly for your replies. Much appreciated.
As I did more research I'm starting to think it's better to return the Flex-A-Lite and just do the OEM fan install. The one mechanic I found -- a cooling and heating shop -- who said he would consider it voiced his concern about canceling and rerouting the pump (oddball there are 2 pumps in the V6 3.0). He wasn't so much concerned with the wiring or the shroud. Eyeballing it and without accounting for problems that may arise during the planning/install he estimated +/- $900. Another shop (not the dealer) who I've used before quoted $972 to do an OEM (genuine Ford part) fan install and I believe they offer a 3-year warranty on their work. Drop off in the morning, pickup around closing time. They replaced my air conditioning unit before and I trust them enough to ask if they'll do it for about $900. My concern, grizzly, wasn't so much the cost per se (trust me I'm not rich) but the fear that another OEM fan would just fail again. I suppose there's no reason to think it shouldn't last for at least another 60-100K miles if done correctly. 80K mi. in 16 years prior was not that much driving.
Oddball, I'm curious about the actuator you mentioned. Is there a way for a shop to test the actuator before seeing if the entire fan needs to be replaced (wishful thinking)?
Shame because I was excited about doing an electric conversion just for the efficiency -- it pushes 3300 cfm with just an 18-amp draw, including an adjustable thermostat -- but don't want to run the risk of spending 1K and having all the windows roll down and the horn go off when the fan is supposed to kick on.
I also figure to replace the DCCV valve while the fan is out and the heater is again blowing nothing but cool air. After that, checking the coils/valve cover gasket/plugs trio to see if I can eliminate the recurring misfire. Have a mysterious oil leak coming from somewhere down there but can't figure it out. Damn Jaguar design!
Funny, driving it 30 miles round trip this morning in 90 degree heat with the air-con running and it only threatened to overheat once when traffic stopped on the freeway. No misfires either, smooth as silk. Go figure.
I'll let you all know what I decide to do and if/whether the OEM install solves the overheating problem(s). We in the overheating/misfiring/no heat in the winter Lincoln LS community need all the help we can get. Cheers. :Beer
As I did more research I'm starting to think it's better to return the Flex-A-Lite and just do the OEM fan install. The one mechanic I found -- a cooling and heating shop -- who said he would consider it voiced his concern about canceling and rerouting the pump (oddball there are 2 pumps in the V6 3.0). He wasn't so much concerned with the wiring or the shroud. Eyeballing it and without accounting for problems that may arise during the planning/install he estimated +/- $900. Another shop (not the dealer) who I've used before quoted $972 to do an OEM (genuine Ford part) fan install and I believe they offer a 3-year warranty on their work. Drop off in the morning, pickup around closing time. They replaced my air conditioning unit before and I trust them enough to ask if they'll do it for about $900. My concern, grizzly, wasn't so much the cost per se (trust me I'm not rich) but the fear that another OEM fan would just fail again. I suppose there's no reason to think it shouldn't last for at least another 60-100K miles if done correctly. 80K mi. in 16 years prior was not that much driving.
Oddball, I'm curious about the actuator you mentioned. Is there a way for a shop to test the actuator before seeing if the entire fan needs to be replaced (wishful thinking)?
Shame because I was excited about doing an electric conversion just for the efficiency -- it pushes 3300 cfm with just an 18-amp draw, including an adjustable thermostat -- but don't want to run the risk of spending 1K and having all the windows roll down and the horn go off when the fan is supposed to kick on.
I also figure to replace the DCCV valve while the fan is out and the heater is again blowing nothing but cool air. After that, checking the coils/valve cover gasket/plugs trio to see if I can eliminate the recurring misfire. Have a mysterious oil leak coming from somewhere down there but can't figure it out. Damn Jaguar design!
Funny, driving it 30 miles round trip this morning in 90 degree heat with the air-con running and it only threatened to overheat once when traffic stopped on the freeway. No misfires either, smooth as silk. Go figure.
I'll let you all know what I decide to do and if/whether the OEM install solves the overheating problem(s). We in the overheating/misfiring/no heat in the winter Lincoln LS community need all the help we can get. Cheers. :Beer
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, there are two hydraulic pumps. One is power steering, the other is cooling fan. Completely separate circuits and separate units.
A correct diagnostic can identify if the actuator is likely. I gave you the two sentence version. The dealer is most likely to be able to do this, but they may just throw parts at it too.
The DCCV usually fails in the "always open" mode (i.e., you only get hot air out the vents). It seldom fails closed. So replacing the DCCV may not solve that issue.
A correct diagnostic can identify if the actuator is likely. I gave you the two sentence version. The dealer is most likely to be able to do this, but they may just throw parts at it too.
The DCCV usually fails in the "always open" mode (i.e., you only get hot air out the vents). It seldom fails closed. So replacing the DCCV may not solve that issue.
grizzlyls
Dedicated LVC Member
I get it on the fail round two as it were. I feel your on the right path, and if you have a good mech that uses Ford parts (for reasonable markup) then you good. That is the one thing about Motorcraft and ASE cert mechs - 3 year warranty, at least 2 year in some cases.
If I had to buy again, I would like others tend to go for the 2005/6 to avoid alot. Sadly, I found a well cared for (by owner) 2001 for great price that turned out was hacked by ****ty mechanic. Probably the bad part about living in a small town in CA - if you go to local mechanic thats the only one nearby could be bad. This car sure was hacked. Oh well, my new mech will fix all that.
In a nutshell, for anyone not DIY, shop around for the right mechanic and price.
If I had to buy again, I would like others tend to go for the 2005/6 to avoid alot. Sadly, I found a well cared for (by owner) 2001 for great price that turned out was hacked by ****ty mechanic. Probably the bad part about living in a small town in CA - if you go to local mechanic thats the only one nearby could be bad. This car sure was hacked. Oh well, my new mech will fix all that.
In a nutshell, for anyone not DIY, shop around for the right mechanic and price.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
I'll mention this to them. Couldn't hurt.
I recall there being a self-test that can be done from the console that might give some feedback about the DCCV. If my memory serves correctly (it usually doesn't
) the heat stopped working after they repaired the air conditioner. Sent the Flex-A-Lite back yesterday, plan to get the work done next week.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
Yes. As others have found out the early generation LS's have some recurring problems, esp. the V6. While they've solved some of them -- the fan, coil packs/valve cover gasket setup immediately comes to mind -- others remain. Fun, comfortable car with good power when it's running well. Good looking box of bolts when it's not.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
Hi All, here's the latest update:
I replaced the hydraulic cooling fan with an OEM Motorcraft fan. My (independent shop) mechanic who did the work suggested I also replace the radiator which I did. We also replaced the DCCV which was rusted and gunked up inside like a full tub of vaseline. The fan/radiator replacement plus the previous job he did replacing all the radiator and cooling hoses broke down as follows:
Replace radiator & cooling hoses -- $600.00
Replace cooling fan & radiator (both OEM) -- $1,095.00
Subtotal $1,695.00
Now here's where it got interesting. After he completed the fan, radiator and DCCV job the engine temp stabilized (it now sits just below 9 o'clock even in stop-and-go with the A/C on) but then he told me now that the heater is repaired the A/C is blowing warm air. His solution (he couldn't quite figure it out) was that he thinks either the brand new DCCV is faulty (unlikely IMHO) or the climate control (I have no idea what he meant by this) is bad. By 'climate control' I assume he meant the entire in-dash control system which didn't make any sense to me (I could be wrong). As a temporary fix he put a clamp on the heater hose so the A/C still works but the heater will not. As I was so pleased about getting the fan replaced, the overheating eliminated and the car back after 2 days I didn't have the energy to get pissed back off about the A/C. Yet.
So I decided l'd take it to the dealership the following week to have them diagnose the 'new' A/C problem before I start buying more parts for my independent shop to fix. So the dealership informs me that the A/C manifold is 'leaking badly', needs to be replaced and the system retested for additional leaks after the repair. $100 that day to diagnose -- estimate to repair $950.00. So now that the car's finally running cool it's me that's getting hot again. $950?!?! Da-yum!!!!
While I'm at the dealership -- btw, they're in the middle of a fancy, big scale remodel which partly explains the higher diagnostic fee ($65 to $95) and the elimination of the 'free' customer drop off and pick-up shuttle (now they just drop off) -- I ask them to print up my entire repair history because I thought I had them repair the A/C within the last couple of years. Turns out they replaced the A/C compressor assembly back in September 2014 to the tune of $1200. Of course the manifold hose assembly (Motorcraft YF-2593) is altogether different so I'm SOL on a warranty A/C repair.
As I thumbed through my prior work orders I also realized since 2012 I've replaced, separately, 4 (out of 6) coil packs, a valve assembly, a valve exhaust air supply, a water pump and have been reporting on and off overheating problems since 2011. At some point you just start to feel dumb.
So… as it stands now I'm researching A/C manifold leaks and solutions, have priced the replacement part and will consult with my independent shop to see if they feel comfortable doing the work and for how much. I'd read another thread about a possible leaking Schrader(?) valve and may look into that as well. I'm certainly not ready to drop another 1G to the dealership which would mean nearly 3K spent fixing the heater and A/C in the last 2 years alone.
Needless to say I'm happy as h*ll about finally eliminating the overheating problem but remain cautious on whether it holds. The brand new factory fan, radiator and hoses give me some peace of mind but the fact that this problem has been so difficult for the 'experts' to diagnose for nearly 3 years doesn't exactly inspire confidence. My ignorance about the best solutions probably didn't help either.
Couple of questions for you experienced guys:
1. If the A/C manifold (ACM) is 'leaking badly', would I see oil, refrigerant or some fluid on the ground underneath and from what side of the car?
2. Would replacing the ACM explain why the heater and A/C aren't working independently and without sticking a dumb*ss clamp on the hose?
3. Getting the overheating problem under control for now seems to have eliminated the car missing (stuttering) between 1st and 2nd gear (usually b/w 30-40mph). From past experience I assumed it was another failing coil pack causing the car to briefly lose power but it seems much less pronounced (for now) after the fan repair.
Thanks all, hope everyone's LS's are running cool, smooth and free. :Beer
I replaced the hydraulic cooling fan with an OEM Motorcraft fan. My (independent shop) mechanic who did the work suggested I also replace the radiator which I did. We also replaced the DCCV which was rusted and gunked up inside like a full tub of vaseline. The fan/radiator replacement plus the previous job he did replacing all the radiator and cooling hoses broke down as follows:
Replace radiator & cooling hoses -- $600.00
Replace cooling fan & radiator (both OEM) -- $1,095.00
Subtotal $1,695.00
Now here's where it got interesting. After he completed the fan, radiator and DCCV job the engine temp stabilized (it now sits just below 9 o'clock even in stop-and-go with the A/C on) but then he told me now that the heater is repaired the A/C is blowing warm air. His solution (he couldn't quite figure it out) was that he thinks either the brand new DCCV is faulty (unlikely IMHO) or the climate control (I have no idea what he meant by this) is bad. By 'climate control' I assume he meant the entire in-dash control system which didn't make any sense to me (I could be wrong). As a temporary fix he put a clamp on the heater hose so the A/C still works but the heater will not. As I was so pleased about getting the fan replaced, the overheating eliminated and the car back after 2 days I didn't have the energy to get pissed back off about the A/C. Yet.
So I decided l'd take it to the dealership the following week to have them diagnose the 'new' A/C problem before I start buying more parts for my independent shop to fix. So the dealership informs me that the A/C manifold is 'leaking badly', needs to be replaced and the system retested for additional leaks after the repair. $100 that day to diagnose -- estimate to repair $950.00. So now that the car's finally running cool it's me that's getting hot again. $950?!?! Da-yum!!!!
While I'm at the dealership -- btw, they're in the middle of a fancy, big scale remodel which partly explains the higher diagnostic fee ($65 to $95) and the elimination of the 'free' customer drop off and pick-up shuttle (now they just drop off) -- I ask them to print up my entire repair history because I thought I had them repair the A/C within the last couple of years. Turns out they replaced the A/C compressor assembly back in September 2014 to the tune of $1200. Of course the manifold hose assembly (Motorcraft YF-2593) is altogether different so I'm SOL on a warranty A/C repair.
As I thumbed through my prior work orders I also realized since 2012 I've replaced, separately, 4 (out of 6) coil packs, a valve assembly, a valve exhaust air supply, a water pump and have been reporting on and off overheating problems since 2011. At some point you just start to feel dumb.
So… as it stands now I'm researching A/C manifold leaks and solutions, have priced the replacement part and will consult with my independent shop to see if they feel comfortable doing the work and for how much. I'd read another thread about a possible leaking Schrader(?) valve and may look into that as well. I'm certainly not ready to drop another 1G to the dealership which would mean nearly 3K spent fixing the heater and A/C in the last 2 years alone.
Needless to say I'm happy as h*ll about finally eliminating the overheating problem but remain cautious on whether it holds. The brand new factory fan, radiator and hoses give me some peace of mind but the fact that this problem has been so difficult for the 'experts' to diagnose for nearly 3 years doesn't exactly inspire confidence. My ignorance about the best solutions probably didn't help either.
Couple of questions for you experienced guys:
1. If the A/C manifold (ACM) is 'leaking badly', would I see oil, refrigerant or some fluid on the ground underneath and from what side of the car?
2. Would replacing the ACM explain why the heater and A/C aren't working independently and without sticking a dumb*ss clamp on the hose?
3. Getting the overheating problem under control for now seems to have eliminated the car missing (stuttering) between 1st and 2nd gear (usually b/w 30-40mph). From past experience I assumed it was another failing coil pack causing the car to briefly lose power but it seems much less pronounced (for now) after the fan repair.
Thanks all, hope everyone's LS's are running cool, smooth and free. :Beer
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
1. You could see some oil residue where the leaks are. Note that it has UV dye in it. It is unlikely that the leak would be big enough for oil to drop down and the system still work at all. Refrigerant is a gas at atmospheric pressure. It doesn't hang around, and you can't see it except in very high concentrations.
2. No, not at all. If clamping the heater hose(s) causes it to cool correctly, then fixing any refrigerant system problems still won't correct your current problem. Are you sure the DCCV used was Motorcraft? Aftermarket DCCVs don't seem to work well at all.
3. They're COPs (Coil-on-Plug), not coil packs. There's just one coil in each. You likely really need to replace the ones not recently replaced. It's also very important to replace the associated spark plug(s) at the exact same time. New plug gap(s) should be verified as well.
2. No, not at all. If clamping the heater hose(s) causes it to cool correctly, then fixing any refrigerant system problems still won't correct your current problem. Are you sure the DCCV used was Motorcraft? Aftermarket DCCVs don't seem to work well at all.
3. They're COPs (Coil-on-Plug), not coil packs. There's just one coil in each. You likely really need to replace the ones not recently replaced. It's also very important to replace the associated spark plug(s) at the exact same time. New plug gap(s) should be verified as well.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
Thanks for the reply, joegr, and your longtime experience on the board. There has been a strange (looks like) oil leak underneath the car, couple drops a week but neither dealer nor indy shop have been able to pinpoint it as of yet. I asked them to look around while replacing the parts but no dice. Meantime I've slid a large piece of cardboard underneath to see if/where it's still drips.
DCCV is Motorcraft (YG-355) so I thought it unlikely it's defective. My indy shop thinks it's either the DCCV or the 'climate control' but didn't mention any leaks in the A/C manifold. Different mechanics seem to always tell different things.
And yes, COP's. I've had 6 of them plus plugs and a VC gasket in the trunk and ready to go for some time now. I planned it to be the next job before the dealership told me about the A/C manifold leak. $600 labor seems a lot to replace that manifold assembly (my service guy always reminds me how hard everything is to get to) but for my troubles at least they filled all the air in my tires back to factory specs after I shelled out the 100 bucks.
DCCV is Motorcraft (YG-355) so I thought it unlikely it's defective. My indy shop thinks it's either the DCCV or the 'climate control' but didn't mention any leaks in the A/C manifold. Different mechanics seem to always tell different things.
And yes, COP's. I've had 6 of them plus plugs and a VC gasket in the trunk and ready to go for some time now. I planned it to be the next job before the dealership told me about the A/C manifold leak. $600 labor seems a lot to replace that manifold assembly (my service guy always reminds me how hard everything is to get to) but for my troubles at least they filled all the air in my tires back to factory specs after I shelled out the 100 bucks.
Triojeepy
LVC Member
I stopped by my indy mechanic's shop on the way home to share the dealership's findings with them. When I told him about the leaking A/C manifold and the dealer's estimate to repair it ($950) he laughed. He said he didn't find any leaks. He's also sticking by his opinion that it's either the climate control system that isn't sending a signal for the heater valve to open or the brand new DCCV he just installed is faulty. Looking at my old DCCV I only saw one place where the electronics connect. The odds it's faulty seem low to me.
He also opined that the A/C wouldn't work if there was a massive leak in the manifold. As of now it's working fine with the heater hose clamped.
His opinion of the dealership, of course, is that since the car is older (LS 2000 3.0L V6 with a little over 81K) they'd rather just start replacing major $$$ components instead of investigating the minutiae or researching other problems. In my experience this is sometimes true.
He also stands by his recommendation that I replace the climate control unit and if that doesn't fix the heater problem he believes it could be a faulty DCCV. P*ssing contests between indy mechanics and dealerships isn't new but not sure who to trust here. Thoughts and opinions on replacing the climate control unit or another DCCV (it's under warranty) would be appreciated.
Also, would the console self test reveal any codes about a possible climate control problem? Haven't run the test before but it could be worth a try.
He also opined that the A/C wouldn't work if there was a massive leak in the manifold. As of now it's working fine with the heater hose clamped.
His opinion of the dealership, of course, is that since the car is older (LS 2000 3.0L V6 with a little over 81K) they'd rather just start replacing major $$$ components instead of investigating the minutiae or researching other problems. In my experience this is sometimes true.
He also stands by his recommendation that I replace the climate control unit and if that doesn't fix the heater problem he believes it could be a faulty DCCV. P*ssing contests between indy mechanics and dealerships isn't new but not sure who to trust here. Thoughts and opinions on replacing the climate control unit or another DCCV (it's under warranty) would be appreciated.
Also, would the console self test reveal any codes about a possible climate control problem? Haven't run the test before but it could be worth a try.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Certainly do the diagnostics. I assumed you already did.
Since clamping the hose off worked, it is narrowed down to the DCCV, the wiring, the DATC, or a temperature sensor.
Here's how to narrow it more.
With the DCCV plugged in, engine running, climate control set at 60, measure the voltages at the DCCV. Measure from the center pin to one of the outer pins. You should get 12+ volts. Now measure from the center pin to the other outer pin. You should also get 12+ volts.
If you got 12V in both cases and the system is heating, then the DCCV is bad.
If you didn't get 12V in both cases, then the DATC, wiring, or a sensor is bad. We can step through that too.
When you do all this and resolve the main problem. You may find that the refrigerant system really is leaking too, just not as much as was implied. However, a refrigerant system problem is not causing the system to heat.
Since clamping the hose off worked, it is narrowed down to the DCCV, the wiring, the DATC, or a temperature sensor.
Here's how to narrow it more.
With the DCCV plugged in, engine running, climate control set at 60, measure the voltages at the DCCV. Measure from the center pin to one of the outer pins. You should get 12+ volts. Now measure from the center pin to the other outer pin. You should also get 12+ volts.
If you got 12V in both cases and the system is heating, then the DCCV is bad.
If you didn't get 12V in both cases, then the DATC, wiring, or a sensor is bad. We can step through that too.
When you do all this and resolve the main problem. You may find that the refrigerant system really is leaking too, just not as much as was implied. However, a refrigerant system problem is not causing the system to heat.