Adding a Sub to the Factory System

Get a line output converter, splice into one or both of the rear speaker wires, run the RCAs from the LOC to the amp, find the remote wire to turn the amp on, run your positive and negative cables and you're done.
 
NYC LSC said:
Get a line output converter, splice into one or both of the rear speaker wires, run the RCAs from the LOC to the amp, find the remote wire to turn the amp on, run your positive and negative cables and you're done.
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The line output converter, can I slice into the speaker wires from the trunk? or is it best to access it from behind the radio and run RCA jacks from the radio to the back?
 
Dont the bazookas have the option of rca's or high level speaker inputs? If so this will save you the trouble of the high to low adapter.
 
turborich said:
Dont the bazookas have the option of rca's or high level speaker inputs? If so this will save you the trouble of the high to low adapter.
Click to expand...

Yes you are right. I don't need the RCA jacks. Now The question is can I access the left and right speaker outputs from the trunk by the factory amp? If not, where is the best place to access them?
 
I wish I could help you but I'm not sure? Maybe Ray would know.
 
Im sure you could "t" into them at the amp if you know the colors... If not just get them from the speakers themselves...

You are overthinking this... its a really easy thing to do! Just dig in and you will pleasantly surprised
 
what i did was tap into right rear speaker run wires under seat to trunk .
plug in rca cables . run remote and pos wire to front a peice of cake to do
 
Ok, according to the Bazooka install manual, I don't need the RCA jacks when keeping the factory system. So I am just going to tap into the left and right output and run the power and ground. That should do it.
 
The amp turn on lead, Couldn't that be taken from the power antenna? If so it's allready in the trunk. That is if it's a gen 1.
 
I would think that when the motor stops working, the power gets cut off from the antenna which would make the amp work for a few seconds. I'd just pull a wire from the amp to the fuse box and tap into the radio fuse for that lead. You can't tap off the stock amp because they don't put out 12 volts (or at least the one in the LS doesn't...I would think the VIIIs are similar).
 
They sure do make the factory stereo/amp wiring strange. I wonder why?
 
You can access the wires in the trunk pre-amp. not post or you are asking for lots of distortion. The line out converter should have rca's that come out the other side to hook into your powered sub. I ran power to the battery of course w/an inline fuse, power on wire to the fuse block, and ground the the rear seat.

Let me know how the bazooka sounds my Basslink is AWESOME and the gain is remotely controlled to help with differences in recording quality!
 
a friend of mine used the power ant to turn on his amp, it worked EXECPT when he played a cd the radio would retract the ant and the amp would shut off, so it depends on the radio, i think his was a sony, being stock uhhhhhh i dunno
 
The Bazooka has a yellow quick connect wire that connects to a loop. If I disconnect it, it means that I am using the orange wire for the remote turn on with a switch or power antenna. I've been thinking of putting in a toggle switch to flip the switch when I want mega bass. If I keep the loop connected, then I don't need the remote turn on. It will automatically turn on when the power is turn on.
 
i tapped into the factory amp inputs right under the rear deck. there is also a remote turn on going to the amp. being the lazy ass i was i used the power/ground for the 2nd OEM amp my car didnt have for my new amp.
 
I am installing a small 10 inch box next week.

Just want to make sure, what color is the speaker wire for the back speakers, I want to get the feed from the amp and run it to my after market amp. In has Hi and LO inputs.
This is with a stock radio unit, so no RCA outputs.

Thank you.
 
Cal is an idiot.

The JBL amp is filled with subsonic filters, crossovers and active EQs and all that is bad for an aftermarket sub. To have it sound proper you need to get the signal BEFORE it enters the amp and feed the new sub/amp.
 
well yeah, i had alittle brain fart earlier..I got myself a little confused.
 
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