At my wit's end! neutral safety switch

The car is getting water in the crank case when I put the garden hose into the coolant intake hose that goes into the top of the intake manifold so it's not the heater core I put the hose on the heater core port and I have water coming from both heater core ports so it's definitely internal I am gonna pull the lower intake manifold tomorrow and see if I can Isolate my overheating issue because it seems the hoses are all flowing properly.
 
Spclett said:
The car is getting water in the crank case when I put the garden hose into the coolant intake hose that goes into the top of the intake manifold so it's not the heater core I put the hose on the heater core port and I have water coming from both heater core ports so it's definitely internal I am gonna pull the lower intake manifold tomorrow and see if I can Isolate my overheating issue because it seems the hoses are all flowing properly.
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I probably just bought a bad engine but I way to make absolutely sure it's something not easy to fix.
 
I really should proof read these posts before I send them. I have to make absolutely sure it's not worth fixing.
 
Spclett said:
I really should proof read these posts before I send them. I have to make absolutely sure it's not worth fixing.
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I would rather it be a gasket than a crack in the block but as water passages go its probably a crack somewhere below the lower intake.
 
Spclett said:
Second thing is when I pressure tested the cooling system by hooking the garden hose to the overflow outlet tube on the bottom of the degas bottle I got water coming out of my oil pan
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This IS the same engine that has the cracked block , (and bars leak) correct?

And you are wondering why you are getting water out of the oil pan???
 
Spclett said:
.... I pressure tested the cooling system by hooking the garden hose to the overflow outlet tube on the bottom of the degas bottle ...
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Great way to kill the cooling system. It can't begin to handle the pressure a water hose supplies.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
This IS the same engine that has the cracked block , (and bars leak) correct?

And you are wondering why you are getting water out of the oil pan???
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Yes it's the same motor but I am speculating on where the water that is mixing with my oil is coming from. I put the bars leak in it and I don't think it fixed anything but I am also losing a lot of coolant so I am on a mission to find out where it is going.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Where do you think the coolant goes... when the block is cracked???
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I don't have much else going on so I guess you could say I'm working my way up to pulling the engine back out. I just wanted to test the lines and see where all that bars leak went if it didn't seal my coolant leak.
 
Bars Leak is for radiators... NOT for engine blocks. Especially aluminum engine blocks. I can think of about 3 other "block sealers" that would work better... but none of them will fix what you are dealing with.

No offense meant... but you are in over your head at this point.
 
I agree
04_Sport_LS said:
Bars Leak is for radiators... NOT for engine blocks. Especially aluminum engine blocks. I can think of about 3 other "block sealers" that would work better... but none of them will fix what you are dealing with.

No offense meant... but you are in over your head at this point.
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The formula that I bought said head gasket sealer but you are right when you are dealing with an aluminum block there isn't any gaurentee it's gonna seal it up.
 
It slowed down the leak but it didn't seal it up so at this point the motor has to come back out and I will test it down to see what I'm dealing with. I am not a mechanic so I am definitely in over my head!
 
Waste of time and energy... that could be applied to installing another engine.

Right now you have a pile of scrap between the front wheels... unless you are a master TIG welder. Even then you won't be able to weld any internal cracks.

You are wasting your time... but what do I know??? :rolleyes:
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Waste of time and energy... that could be applied to installing another engine.

Right now you have a pile of scrap between the front wheels... unless you are a master TIG welder. Even then you won't be able to weld any internal cracks.

You are wasting your time... but what do I know??? :rolleyes:
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Yes I'm wasting time that could be better spent disassembling the parts that have to come off to pull the motor I have the intake manifold off so that's one piece out of the way
 
Spclett said:
Yes I'm wasting time that could be better spent disassembling the parts that have to come off to pull the motor I have the intake manifold off so that's one piece out of the way
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Wasting time and you have probably ruined your DCCV, and maybe the heater cores with that stuff.
 
DCCV wasn't working when I purchased the car and I ran water thru all the hoses and lines there are no blocked lines as far as I was able to verify I don't know where the rest of it went that didn't seal up the cracks in the water passages but I couldn't find any blocked anything.
 
I couldn't let it go what you are seeing is the wounded motor I bought from the salvage yard two months ago. To recap I paid 265 dollars for this motor and it's been burning coolant and leaking coolant into my crank case. I know how to take thing apart and put them back together but diagnoses aren't my strong suit. Can anyone see where the head gasket failure point is?

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On the plus side I don't see any cracks in the aluminum. I am going to attempt a rebuild. I was going to get another motor from the junkyard but another one I found here locally wants 450 for an LS v6 with 180,000 miles on it. Their direct competition that I bought an engine from in the past want 700 dollars for an LS v6 and I want to say he said that motor had 150,000 miles so I think I will leave the salvage yards alone and work with the problem I have already purchased.
 
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