Bad Head Gasket?

...If it's a common issue though I see the need.

I know that mine did.
You might get away with waiting on the lower hose, since it does not get nearly as hot, but it too is much easier to do while everything else is out.
 
I know that mine did.
You might get away with waiting on the lower hose, since it does not get nearly as hot, but it too is much easier to do while everything else is out.

Yeah that's what I figured I already bought the lower hose because I saw it'd be easy to do when it's torn apart. I think I found an upper for like $70 on eBay so I'll get it on the way.
 
About the lower hose... The connections at the oil cooler were more difficult to deal with than they should have been.
 
... I didn't buy the upper radiator hose ...

attachment.jpg
 
Quote Joe:

"The connections at the oil cooler were more difficult to deal with than they should have been. "

+1

They can be a challenge. I found that by pulling the oil filter first... and using "bent nose" pliers,,, it worked out pretty good. Just make sure you cover the oil filter mount with a plastic bag and zip tie... otherwise you will be changing the oil when the coolant flows out of the pulled oil cooler hoses,,, and dumps into the oil filter mount.

On the new lower hose, (with oil cooler), the clamps weren't orientated quite properly. So I loosened them from the glue on the hose and repositioned them facing down. Much easier to install then. Oil filter went back on last.
 
Quote Joe:

"The connections at the oil cooler were more difficult to deal with than they should have been. "

+1

They can be a challenge. I found that by pulling the oil filter first... and using "bent nose" pliers,,, it worked out pretty good. Just make sure you cover the oil filter mount with a plastic bag and zip tie... otherwise you will be changing the oil when the coolant flows out of the pulled oil cooler hoses,,, and dumps into the oil filter mount.

On the new lower hose, (with oil cooler), the clamps weren't orientated quite properly. So I loosened them from the glue on the hose and repositioned them facing down. Much easier to install then. Oil filter went back on last.

I wondered why they used antifreeze to cool the oil..confused me how that would all work when I tore it apart. I'm changing the oil also..does that make it easier?

Parts are all in Allen Park so my Saturday is for sure dedicated to getting the car on the road. Somehow gotta find time to watch them Lions though! :)
 
I wondered why they used antifreeze to cool the oil..confused me how that would all work when I tore it apart. ...

How would you have done it? Most engine oil coolers are oil-to-water. Anyway, it's also (perhaps more so) to help warm the oil up quicker.
 
How would you have done it? Most engine oil coolers are oil-to-water. Anyway, it's also (perhaps more so) to help warm the oil up quicker.

That why they should be more correctly called oil temperature equalizers. Yes during cold start, they help to warm the oil up quicker. Once up to temp they help to remove extra heat from the oil and uses the coolant to reject the extra heat via the radiator. It is a fairly efficient setup since oil to water is a more effective heat exchange than oil to air. Also with an oil to air cooler, you need a thermostatic controlled bypass value to keep the oil from being over cooled.
 
How would you have done it? Most engine oil coolers are oil-to-water. Anyway, it's also (perhaps more so) to help warm the oil up quicker.

Yeah, I didn't know it warmed it faster I just thought it helped cool it down. I've never seen any car we have with this setup but I haven't looked for it either.
 
Back in '95... I ordered my F150 4x4 with the Off Road package... and the Trailer Tow package, (which included the engine oil cooler). During that part of my life... the now ex would go out and start my truck in the winter... while i was wolfing down breakfast in under 5 minutes. When I got into my truck to leave for work,,, I already had full heat, (in the dead of winter)... when the 5.8 was known to be a cold blooded engine unless it was working hard.
 
Back in '95... I ordered my F150 4x4 with the Off Road package... and the Trailer Tow package, (which included the engine oil cooler). During that part of my life... the now ex would go out and start my truck in the winter... while i was wolfing down breakfast in under 5 minutes. When I got into my truck to leave for work,,, I already had full heat, (in the dead of winter)... when the 5.8 was known to be a cold blooded engine unless it was working hard.

Takes the LS a long time to get to tempature at idle it seems. If I get in and go it probably takes 3 miles.

Must've jinxed my dads car haha..he was driving it home and it started cutting out and had no power. Pulled it in the shop, took off the coil covers and pulled a COP...gushed out a bunch of oil. Whoops but yeah that probably explains the bad smell I've noticed. Valve cover gaskets on the way!
 
And I had some time today to get the LS back on the road. Did the degas bottle first which isn't all tht bad to change the 2nd time around. Probably 2 hours I'd guess..definetley learned a few tricks to get it off fast. Not sure how to attach pictures I'll try it but I think the degas was the problem. Had a couple cracks and just nasty overall.
Everything else goes on tomorrow hopefully goes as well as today..probably will take longer though.
 
I wouldn't fret the valve cover gaskets too much on the gen 2 LS. I've got almost a 180K miles on mine with no problems, (probably jinxed myself now). That issue was SUPPOSED to be resolved by MID 2003. Don't get me wrong... I have very minor seepage, (on top), but no cause for alarm at this point. However... I do have a Fel-Pro set standing by when the time comes.

Yes cam... I did actually buy an aftermarket VC gasket kit!!! Oh the horror, sacrilege, and hypocrisy :)
 
Had to change the valve cover gaskets on my 04 a year or two back, at about 180K miles. They don't last forever on any car.
 
Someone explain to Morgan it's not the VCG per say but rather the internal plug well rubber O ring seals he needs to focus on.

Wait ... I just did. NVM
 
Someone explain to Morgan it's not the VCG per say but rather the internal plug well rubber O ring seals he needs to focus on.

Wait ... I just did. NVM

Yeah I know it's all included in the kit. Only 2 wells had oil in them but it was a lot. His has over 200K so have to expect it.

Can you guys see the images I attached of the degas bottle in my previous posts?
 
Did not get the car done today..thermostat housing is the only part that failed to show up. Impatiently waiting..sat in Pontiac for 2 days then moves South to Allen Park. Hopefully they get it figured out because I am north of Pontiac by a long ways. Looks like Monday I'll have to find time and get it done.
 
Quote Rig:

"Someone explain to Morgan it's not the VCG per say but rather the internal plug well rubber O ring seals he needs to focus on."

Once again... Rigs right. :)
 
Can anyone give me a labor time on replacing the thermostat housing, the elbow, and the intake gaskets? Just a rough estimate would help a lot. Thanks
 
Can anyone give me a labor time on replacing the thermostat housing, the elbow, and the intake gaskets? Just a rough estimate would help a lot. Thanks
For yourself, doing it the first time, allow a whole day, but it should be more like four or five hours.
Someone professional that has all the right tools and has done it before, two or three hours.
 
Need some help on getting the intake off. Is there a way to remove the line that runs from one side of the fuel rail to the other? IT goes over the intake and throttle body. Do I need to remove the fuel rail? Or remove the throttle body from the intake? I was thinking of taking off the throttle body but my dad thinks they're hard to remove and look really rusty. And I wish I bought every dumb plastic line because they all break. I'm trying to be careful and they still break..all the release tabs broke.
 

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