04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Well... I did some digging on the net... and found this:
Coolant Refill Tool - The Garage Journal Board
Read post #10 for sure... and post #14
Boiling in Degas Reservoir but coolant is 210 F.
- Thread starter AmsterDutch
- Start date
Well... I did some digging on the net... and found this:
Coolant Refill Tool - The Garage Journal Board
Read post #10 for sure... and post #14
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I agree it sure looked watered down instead of a nice red Mercon V it was like milky pink
I will check that ...I will have to mess with the connection settings ...I usually leave everything on Auto and it connects up smoothly...I seen you suggested the VINT OBDII Diagnostic Interface adapter off of Amazon on a different thread so I bought that one and it's been working great still kinda unsure what the little switch does...anyway it was working on the LSE and the 06' LS but now only connects to the LS I used it on my neighbors GF's Focus and it also worked great...will have to mess with it some more unless the PCM is Fried now
Not sure how long it sat...but it did have Dex Cool in the Coolant system so who knows what the previous owners were putting into the fan Reservoir
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
I have that UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit, bought it off Amazon last year. Great tool, used it several times on three different vehicles. Never had any problem with trapped air. If anybody purchases this tool, they will need a good size air compressor to make it work properly. I have a 5 gallon pancake and a 30 gallon air compressor. The 5 gallon did not work very well, the 30 gallon worked much better. It still took about 15 to 20 minutes to pull a good vacuum.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I would need to buy a larger compressor than I have now ...jmeecer said he uses 30 gallon Money money money ")
jmeecer
Active LVC Member
That specific tool need 90 psi of air to operate correctly. My little 5 gallon air compressor (non-oil compressor) was running continuously in order to build enough air pressure, my 30 gallon (oil compressor) was more than enough. So, I think 15 to 20 gallon compressor would work, but it would likely run continuously for a while in order to keep the air pressure about 90 psi. I think this tool was designed for shop air with very large tanks with high air pressure. Home systems will work but will take a while and your smaller air compressor with run continuously, I did not want to my little 5 gallon non-oil air compressor to run for 10 to 20 minutes continuously. My 30 gallon air can run continuously for hours and it will not hurt the pump.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Nevertheless I will need to upgrade if I want this tool to perform at its best...I have a Campbell Hauser maz is 100psi but it's a compact and this tank is made to pump up tires and that's about it ...I've been wanting to get a new compressor for quite some time just never broke down and bought one ...will have to price them at Harbor Frieght
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Update: I Changed out the degas reservoir today and after refilling the system there was no bubbling...but there was also no stream of coolant out of the bleeder valve either ... but damn I must say I have some clean coolant...I let it sit at idle for about 20 minutes, nothing came out ....closed bleeder and left it run for about 15 minutes ...when I turned the car off steam was pouring out of the hood ....I looked at degas bottle and coolant level had dropped significantly....I looked under the car and coolant was running down the driveway ...well coolant rebuild is once again upon me ....at least I know there is a leak now will have to look exactly where its leaking tomorrow it was getting to late tonight
will have to look exactly where its leaking tomorrow it was getting to late tonight
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Never had such a crazy cooling system in a car...I went out today to check out where its leaking ...turned the car on and nothing ...no leaks again ...holding steady at 210F ...running great but nothing coming out of bleeder valve...also the upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose is super soft...going to run it until I get a leak again I guess
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh for crying out loud... You know you want that 80 gallon 2 stage Ingersoll at your local TSC... so just go buy it.
Then order the U-view.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
There ya go.... But you don't want the Harbor Weight. Your CH is better than that. You don't want Husky, Wen, Kobalt, or Masterforce either.
If you have a Big R near you... Go check out the Quincy's they sell. You'll have one of those for a lifetime. the Industrial Airs aren't bad either.
something to keep in mind... (from the internet)....
For a given compressor, such as a 50-hp (37.3kW) one, flow will decrease as pressure increases, and vice versa...
and...
As you lower the PSI output, CFM increases. A compressor with a higher CFM rating can deliver more air and is better suited for heavier applications,
So anyone using the U-view could dial down the regulator on the compressor to say 50psi, and get a vacuum quicker than at 90psi.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I apologize for the late response...I was trying to tackling other things on the car first...it's come to a full circle ...and now I'm back to trying to read live data again with Forscan ...yes you're 100% correct Joe the 2006 LS is a CAN car and my ELM`s CAN pair works great on it and the 2002 Lincoln is older than CAN protocol and has K and L line.. which means that my ELM`s K and L line might not work...I have the same ELM connector as you the Converter USB-SERIAL CH340 (COM4) So my question is ...Do you know what I'm doing wrong...I had the 2002 LSE hooked up with Forscan a few times but now
When I attempt to connect to my 2002 Lincoln LSE (3.9 if that matters) I get unable to connect, TURN IGNITION SWITCH ON errors. I have tried with the switch in the run position and with the car running. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated?
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
You could try a different ELM adapter. They are not created equally and some work better that others. I had to get a new one since I had issues with the one I had. It would connect sometimes but mostly it would give me trouble.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I was thinking the same thing...do you have a bluetooth adapter or cable?
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
The old one is bluetooth which was giving me trouble so I bought a cable one off of amazon. I bought the cable one so I wouldn't have to go into my bluetooth settings and disconnect my radio which connects right away. I don't think that was the issue with the adapter though because I don't have that problem with any of my other vehicles just the Lincoln.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBD...1&s=gateway&sprefix=forscan+e,aps,219&sr=8-50
This is the one I bought. I don't have any trouble connecting anymore but I have had some tasks not complete properly. I think this is probably an android app issue but I can't say for sure since I haven't got around to testing it yet with my computer.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Well in my haste and just not THINKING! I saw today that two pins in the middle of my adapter were bent over towards the side of the plastic wall inside the adapter where the Pins sit...So believe it or not after letting the LSE sit that last two weeks or so I went to start her up and see if the Forscan would connect and sure enough were back in business...with all that being said ...I let the car warm up to operating temp range and LOW AND BEHOLD NO Bubbling and the Coolant is staying at 195 Fahrenheit I will still be doing a coolant rebuild of course but it makes me wonder if this system bleeds itself over a period of time while it sits at idle...probably not ...so I ordered the Solenoid pack and will be replacing it this weekend ...wish me luck that my reverse comes back after I throw it in...
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks Joe! That's good to know!
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay heyjewel, 04_Sport, FDR and Joegr I just dumped $3000 into 2002 LSE 3.9 and had the Transmission upgraded and rebuilt... my Transmission Specialist took it for a test drive after rebuilding the Transmission to make sure everything was up to snuff...he said he didn't hear the fan when the temp gage climbed past the middle reading...he drove it about 6 miles and shut the car down right away after he noticed the Temp gage was past the middle ...he said he couldn't hear the fan running when the car was overheating and I new I would have to replace the fan due to the fluid looking so milky ...The transmission is flawless so now it's time to get the fan fixed ...where do I start?
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay that's what I've read on the Forum with different threads about the hydraulic fan ...wasn't sure if I should get a whole new fan with hydraulic motor ..Rockauto has MotorCraft for $215
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's the fan motor and fan right? The actuator is on the pump.
rgorke
Dedicated LVC Member
What do you mean "the Temp gauge was past the middle"? Do you mean that the gauge was rising to the top or it was just stopped and pointing past the middle of the gauge? I have seen some the are dead center (like 9 o'clock) and others that are a little past that at say 9:30.
Maybe will all the super upgrades you have done, upgrading the fan to a Gen 2 fan would be advisable. Or as some say, Gen 2 FANS....Right Joe? LOL
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes I was thinking about it but not sure if it's more work than just fixing the existing hydraulic fan ...and he said the P1299 code came up after the check engine light came on so it was past the middle mark on needle
So I guess that is my question...what are the odds I will need the entire fan and motor or will I more than likely just need the actuator on the pump?