Car wont start or even try to click over PLEASE HELP

0

02LincolnLS.

Active LVC Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
83
Reaction score
0
Location
up north
ok, so i just installed a new head unit but i dont believe this problem was because of that because i had the car running after i installed it, after i installed it and turned the car off i went in for dinner then came back out to fire it up and leave... well it wouldnt even click or even try to start. i tried jumping it, that didnt do anything. i hooked my battery up to a charging box, that didnt do anything, so the battery is now out of the situtation (i know thats not the problem) i started reading on google that maybe it was the starter... it may very well be but the weird thing is that my key pad to unlock my car wont work or my windows wont go up... the red theft light by my windshield is rapidly flashing... i read that maybe the key has gone bad... i am very confused on what is going on, do any of you have any idea what may be the problem? i need help!!!:confused::mad:
 
if I was a betting man, i would put money on a dead battery or you some how blew every fuse.

if the battery had power, the windows should roll up even if the key was "bad"

having too low of power could cause a problem with the PATS and the system might not have enough power to read the code in the key, and that could be why it would not try to start. (flashing PATS light will cause the car not to crank)


many times i have seen batteries so dead (clue of this is that you dont even get a "click" when trying to start, windows and locks dont function) that even jumper cables or a charger wont work (right away at least) i would either leave the battery on the charger for awhile (depending on power, probably an hour or so) or leave the car hooked up with jumper cables with the other car RUNNING for at least a half hour then retry and see what happens)

it should also be noted, if your battery was old/weak, and it was drained completely dead, you may have damaged it too far to bring back.
 
1LoudLS said:
if I was a betting man, i would put money on a dead battery or you some how blew every fuse.

if the battery had power, the windows should roll up even if the key was "bad"

having too low of power could cause a problem with the PATS and the system might not have enough power to read the code in the key, and that could be why it would not try to start. (flashing PATS light will cause the car not to crank)


many times i have seen batteries so dead (clue of this is that you dont even get a "click" when trying to start, windows and locks dont function) that even jumper cables or a charger wont work (right away at least) i would either leave the battery on the charger for awhile (depending on power, probably an hour or so) or leave the car hooked up with jumper cables with the other car RUNNING for at least a half hour then retry and see what happens)

it should also be noted, if your battery was old/weak, and it was drained completely dead, you may have damaged it too far to bring back.
Click to expand...
so i should try a new battery?
 
I think that you blew some fuses, or otherwise killed some of the front power circuits.
 
02LincolnLS. said:
so i should try a new battery?
Click to expand...

or just have the battery tested somewhere that does free testing.


as mentioned above, the easiest thing to do first is to visually test every single fuse (pull the fuse out and look at it and make sure the bridge is not burnt up) in all three fuse boxes to make sure they are all good.



also, not necessarily blew EVERY fuse as mentioned in the first response, but any fuses for any things not working in the car
 
yeah test the battery, but maybe you set off your alarm. Do your lights come on? If so maybe you have to reset your alarm. The car wont make any noise if you tripped the alarm. There's a little black button probably by the kick panel that you have to push and then turn the key. But also if the battery is good and there are no burnt fuses then the starter might be it.
 
cmack said:
The car wont make any noise if you tripped the alarm.
Click to expand...
not true, if you set off the alarm (OEM) the horn will honk (hell, any aftermarket alarm should definitely make noise if the system has been tripped as well)


cmack said:
There's a little black button probably by the kick panel that you have to push and then turn the key.
Click to expand...
not from the factory its not
 
1LoudLS said:
not true, if you set off the alarm (OEM) the horn will honk (hell, any aftermarket alarm should definitely make noise if the system has been tripped as well)
Click to expand...

yeah the horn will sound, forgot about that. I meant the car won't make any noise if u turn the key.

not from the factory its not
Click to expand...


I thought all alarms have those reset buttons? I have the factory keyfob and an alarm.
 
thanks guys, i threw her on the trailer and took it up to my buddy who is a mechanic. he is gonna look at it. i checked all fuses and battery, both were fine
 
cmack said:
I thought all alarms have those reset buttons?
Click to expand...

disarming the system resets the OEM alarm (hitting unlock on the remote, using the key in the door, or using the entry pad.)


when your alarm goes off, does only the horn honk, or do you also have a siren (typical alarm sound)?
 
02LincolnLS. said:
the red theft light by my windshield is rapidly flashing...
Click to expand...

always amazes me when some ppl throw out some random solution w/o reading the problem description. man_ual sez:

NOTE: Prior to removal of the instrument cluster,
it is necessary to upload the instrument cluster
configuration information to the diagnostic tool.
This information needs to be downloaded into the
new instrument cluster once installed. For
additional information, refer to Section 418-01.
NOTE: If either the instrument cluster or the
powertrain control module (PCM) are installed,
update, or configured, both modules require a
parameter reset to allow both modules to recognize
the passive anti-theft system (PATS) keys.
Failure to carry out the parameter reset to both the
instrument cluster and the PCM may result in a no
start condition.

NOTE: Once the new instrument cluster is
installed, it is necessary to download the
module configuration information from the
diagnostic tool into the new instrument cluster.
For additional information, refer to Section
418-01.

Following installation of the instrument cluster,
carry out the Parameter Reset and Key
Programming procedure in this section.
Section 501-12.
The parameter reset must also be carried out for
4 the PCM. For additional PCM information,
refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis
manual.

I advise a trip to your local lincoln/mercury dealer's service dept.
 
joegr said:
I think that you blew some fuses, or otherwise killed some of the front power circuits.
Click to expand...

BTW, this theory comes from the fact that the PATS light is flashing. One of the reasons that it will flash is if the PCM does not have power or can't respond on the bus.
Turn the key to run and watch the light flash rapidly for a while. When it slows down, it will flash out a repeating two digit code for a bit. Count the flashes and post the two digit code to get better help.
 
if the old one saves the parameters, and im not 100% certain that it does, you might be able to just put the old one back in so you can at least drive it to someone who knows more about it. i would recommend ford/lincoln unless you have a service manual and a pced for your model, although i believe all of the gen 2s are probably the same.
 
OP changed the radio headunit, not the instrument cluster or the PCM, unless I missed something.
 
Yes he is

jrand said:
if the old one saves the parameters, and im not 100% certain that it does, you might be able to just put the old one back in so you can at least drive it to someone who knows more about it. i would recommend ford/lincoln unless you have a service manual and a pced for your model, although i believe all of the gen 2s are probably the same.
Click to expand...

Please explain this post
 
dont take that post out of context, read the two above it to see where im going with it; My main point is that OP definitely tripped his pats, which would not let his car start. my guess is that it thinks his head is stolen, but i dont know how to read specific pats dtc's so i dont know for sure and i dont think too many people can read those codes, so i would advise going to lincoln.
my 2nd point is that like the other major units (cluster/pcm) in the car, there is a parameter/serial#/general code/etc associated with the unit that the other units and pats use to identify the unit and verify that they are communicating with the correct unit. without saving the parameter/serial#/general code/etc associated with the unit before removal, the unit may have lost that parameter/serial#/general code/etc, but it is possible that it is still saved into said unit and that he could re-install said unit into the vehicle and it may rid his pats dtc and allow him to start the car instead of towing it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 173 (members: 0, guests: 173)
Back
Top