CEL - Anyone?

S

stink 'N linc 'N

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Alright. so i've still got the antilock light coming on. working on getting that outta there still. but now, twice in the past 2 weeks, after driving on the highway for 10-15 minutes the CEL would come on for 2 minutes? or so. then turn back off? I had just brought it in to my mechanic friends shop to do some work and for both warning lights, there wasnt anything that had come up on the scanner? When he scanned it tho none of the lights were on. the antilock comes on @ 20mph and the CEL has only came on twice and turnd off moments later. Any ideas? Thanks!
 
i usually put a piece of tape over the cel....that usually makes it go away

if you dont look at it.....its not there
 
Sounds like a abs sensor going bad to me. Mine came off and on for about 3 weeks before it stayed on.
 
Does your TRACTION CONTROL switch come on too when the ABS comes on? If yes, then like was stated ABS relay.
 
If it's the ABS relay, it's located in the driver's side wheel well behind the cowling and you can take the one from the passenger side wheel well behind the cowling that's for the Air Ride just to check if that is your problem, they are interchangeable. If it's a sensor then you will have to check wheel by wheel.:)
 
ABS light coming on along with the traction off doesnt' mean that the relay is bad. The two systems are integrated and that's why any error from ABS triggers the traction light.

You don't need to check any wheels or other crap. USE the technology that's built into the car. READ THE CODES !!!

ABS system sends error signals the same way ECU does:

"The ABS Test connector has 3 wires: Anti-Lock Indicator Output (DG - dark green), Anti-Lock Test Connector Input (W/LB - white/light green) and Ground (BK - black). In order to get the DTC displayed by the ABS warning light, just connect the Anti-Lock Test Connector Input with a jumper wire to Ground. Then switch the ignition on (no start)."
Count the flashes and come back here. I'll reference them for you.
 
What kind of code reader do you need for the ABS? I can't plug my EEC-IV into it, can I?
 
m-marker (In order to get the DTC displayed by the ABS warning light, just connect the Anti-Lock Test Connector Input with a jumper wire to Ground. Then switch the ignition on (no start)."
Count the flashes and come back here. I'll reference them for you.)

So i just put a wire in the ground spot on the test connector and ground it on the car. Then turn the ignition on. Count how many times the anti lock light / traction light flashes? then ill let you know how many times to find out what i need to do?

Any ideas on the check engine light coming on then coming off. Cause it happened again today on my way home from work.
 
No, you connect the Anti-Lock Test Connector Input (W/LB - white/light green) and Ground (BK - black) wires with a jumper. The codes are two digit numbers. Most likely you will get 31, 32 or 34.

You can check ECU CEL the same way if the car is an obd I EEC IV (pre-96).
I need to dig up the procedure for that.
 
Just want to make sure im doin everything right here.
A wire from the ground to the Light green wire in the anti lock test connector. and will these numbers be displayed on the message center?

Can is a 94' mark. does that mean that its obd I ?
 
m-marker?


OK I just hookd up that wire. turned ignition on, no start. and I got a series of 6 flashes. then a short pause and another 3 flashes. After those 3. I left the key in the same position for a couple more seconds. How long should i let it sit like that for? And does the amount of flashes I got mean anything?

code 63?
 
Just so we are on the same page ... you're looking at the ABS light, not CEL ?

63 - voltage supply interruption
(detects ignition voltage but not voltage for ABS controller)

bad fuse, bad relay, bad ground, etc ...
 
Yup, im looking at the ABs light. CEL, is a whole other thing. One at a time..

OK. So where did you get the code definition for 63?

Bad fuse, relay or bad ground.

Where should i start with that? start replacing the abs fuse and relay??
Where would both of these be located?

Should i be looking towards a new alt.?
 
Check the fuse (see manual for specific fuse), then swap the suspension relay with the abs relay ( see few posts up ), check main grounding points ... your usual troubleshoot ... something is either rusted and lacks connection or the relay is stuck closed.

Did you test the voltage at the battery yet ?

Like you said, one thing at a time.
 
I just checkd the high current fuses. the 30A number 9 anti-lock brake power relay was is good working order.
Now on to the abs and suspension relay. Where exactly are those 2 relays?
havent tested the battery, i dont have a voltmeter or anything.
 
Suspension relay is mounted to the compressor frame, and ABS relay is mounted in front of the abs pump. Remove the wheel well liners on both sides, or pull the bumper cover for easy access.
 
Dont know how much i wanna take the front bumper off. I hope i can just get at it with the wheel wells out. While im in there trying to switch those relays. i should take out the air silencer also while im there.


They are on opposits sides. suspension relay is on the passenger side abs is drivers?

I think im goin to for now just attempted those relays try to get the abs light gone before i start doin anything else. When the wells are off am i goin to be able to see what im looking for easily? Anything special im gonna need to take care of this?
and when i do get to the relays and i pull them both out. just switch abs to suspension and suspension to abs spot. Then should i drive the car for alil bit untill when normally the Abs light turns on. and if it doesnt turn on. then my relay for the abs is bad. but would because its bad would it make a suspension light come on?
 
It's gonna be difficult with silencer in the way. The relays are located in front of other stuff that gets in the way. That's why it's easier with the cover off. It's doable with the cover in place though.

When you remove the suspension relay, switch the airride off and leave it that way. If the original ABS relay is bad, you want to avoid re-using it since the compressor is not gonna run with a bad relay and the car will most likely vent all the way.
 
On a related note, my message center is giving me a "check traction control" message, and my abs light is on. this started after I passed another car and stomped it in the process. Sound like a ABS relay as well?
 
I've converted over to coils. I've left all the air compenents in still. I did cut a wire to make the "check air ride" stop.

As I wont be able to tackle this just yet. Ive got a 3 day weekend coming up. I'll try and see what i can do then.

After i've taken the susp. relay out put it in where the abs would go. Then would i drive the car around a lil bit seeing if the light comes on or not?
 
That's what I would do and since you have coils you wouldn't have to replace the relay on the passenger side so all it will cost you is your time, that's if the relay is bad. Before you install the relay I would spray DeoxIT or similar cleaner on both connections before assembly, it's a contact cleaner and rejuvenator for better electrical connections. When you remove the driver's wheel well liner the ABS relay will be to your left, can't miss it, just look for the connector with wires.:)
 
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