Changing gears? (first time)

the1andonlyGR81 said:
so like this.....
2012-06-24002330.gif
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Old hot rod mustang trick is to also replace that S spring with stronger one out of F-150 to make posi bite more. I got it in mine.
 
the1andonlyGR81 said:
when you got your trac loc it wasnt from a irs car anyways,right. all i remember was it said it would fit both straight and irs applications, but have since discontinued the item and i deleted it off bookmark lists. no way to retrieve it is there?
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You should be able to look in there with flashlight to see if bevel is cut in. I would think Ford would just do them all after they made mustangs IRS for couple years.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Old hot rod mustang trick is to also replace that S spring with stronger one out of F-150 to make posi bite more. I got it in mine.
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i do too. but in reality, more pre-load only helps in super low traction environments. snow/ice/mud.
the real locking effect is created with the engine torque squeezes the spider gears outward into the clutches. many people run without an s spring at all for better street manners.
 
chris2523 said:
i do too. but in reality, more pre-load only helps in super low traction environments. snow/ice/mud.
the real locking effect is created with the engine torque squeezes the spider gears outward into the clutches. many people run without an s spring at all for better street manners.
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During a water burnout, not much power is needed to spin the tires, so not much clamping force is applied to the clutches...this is why they lock up poorly during burnouts. The "S" shaped spring is there for clutch pre-load, mostly to provide clutch pressure when there is no traction at all (and little power passing thru the spyders) such as ice/snow/wet/etc. Under minimum traction conditions such as these, without the "S" spring's pre-load, even a brand new 8.8 TracLoc would lose all it's limited slip abilities. If you want to add clutch pack pre-load, the F-150's got a thicker/heavier/stronger pre-load spring.
 
the1andonlyGR81 said:
kinda hard to tell with the flashlight, but there is an edge cut there but cant tell if its a 45 or just a notch
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If you really want to find out just take out S spring and look. Also when S spring is out you can pull side gear then you can test fit on axle to see if pops off no problem. I like to pull all clutches anyway and soak for 30-60 minutes in gear lube. You want them to suck up fluid like sponges before install. Make sure you restack same as they came out.
 
Yes, those pics show the beveled side gears. Posi units can be found cheap enough - I got mine for free when a friend was junking an old '88 TBird. I looked under it and voila, it had a trac-lok! I yanked that puppy out and he just let me have it. It probably doesn't have beveled side gears, but I can do that myself easy enough.
 
beerdog

i have the trac lok and the 4.10 gears what more do i need?
 
I just want to FYI peeps on this. You are not just taking out gears and putting new gears in. (sometimes FMS gears do drop in) You will be trial setting up gears and then checking gear wear pattern. Then reading the pattern if its right you then take apart and final assemble it. If not and most of the time you will have to move pinion in or out to get pattern correct. But once you move pinion in or out you have to change the side diff shims on both sides to move diff either left or right to give correct backlash(bl) You also have to set pinion bearing preload on settup without the crush collar and learn to use rag to preload the ring when checking wear pattern.
 
when i swapped my pumpkins i didnt have to deal with ANY c clips. i just popped one half shaft off and dropped the heavy mf. then i put another pre built heavy mf back in and, and also didnt deal with any c clips
 
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