Coolant woes once again...Sigh

AmsterDutch

AmsterDutch

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Well I replaced my upper and lower coolant hoses...DCCV ...Aux Pump ' was ' working good so I kept it ...upon removing the existing DCCV I noticed it was OEM and it looked way to good to be the Original ...so now I'm kicking myself in the ass for changing it out...put in new Generator/alternator and proceed to fill and bleed the system...now while I'm bleeding the system the coolant is rising and boiling over out of DEGAS reservoir ...it goes up and then goes down ...goes up then goes down...repeated this four or five times...coolant was at 112 Celcius while this happened ...the needle stayed in the middle of temp gauge the whole time...is the DEGAS reservoir cracked? Or would this be water pump problems? I also noticed that the heat would get hot and then cool off even while at 90 degree setting...I'm starting to think these cars are possessed by something...once again I'm pulling out my hair trying to figure this out
 
It sounds like you have a lot of air in there.
Filling and bleeding is way easier with the car's nose pointed down. It's very difficult with the front pointed up hill or on ramps.
 
joegr said:
It sounds like you have a lot of air in there.
Filling and bleeding is way easier with the car's nose pointed down. It's very difficult with the front pointed up hill or on ramps.
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Thanks for responding Joe ...I was thinking the same thing ...but like always with this coolant system I'm never 100% sure...I will put the car's rear wheels on ramps and keep trying to bleed the air ...I let it rest for 30 minutes and went back out and started it up ...the temp went to 112 celcius again 233 F' and steam was coming out of good g5 degas reservoir...I then added so.e coolant and it stayed at 98 celsius ...only Luke warm air coming out out of heater when it's on 90 degree setting still...I guess I will keep bleeding ...if it's not a successful bleed by tonight ...guess I'll change out degas reservoir next
 
joegr said:
It sounds like you have a lot of air in there.
Filling and bleeding is way easier with the car's nose pointed down. It's very difficult with the front pointed up hill or on ramps.
Click to expand...
Joe one thing I notice just now as I'm bleeding this coolant system...the only way I can get coolant out of the heater bleed hose is by placing the heater bleed hose downward ...I mean I have to push it down past my coil covers otherwise coolant wont bleed out....Any thoughts on this?
 
Your system is not pressurizing for some reason. You'll have to find and eliminate the leak.
 
joegr said:
Your system is not pressurizing for some reason. You'll have to find and eliminate the leak.
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yup that's what I thought...has to be the degas reservoir...everything else is brand new...thanks for the conformation
 
My temperature range since my last drive is between 208-215 Fahrenheit...if plastics are Okay ....where do I start?
 
Check your t-stat...
Before I noticed my radiator leaking, mine was acting very similar.

You saw in my post how one of the ears in the T-stat housing had busted, making the T-stat all caty-whompus which was no doubt affecting coolant flow and temp issues.
 
Archangel said:
Check your t-stat...
Before I noticed my radiator leaking, mine was acting very similar.

You saw in my post how one of the ears in the T-stat housing had busted, making the T-stat all caty-whompus which was no doubt affecting coolant flow and temp issues.
Click to expand...
I have the Aluminum Uro Jaguar T-stat housing ...remember I'm in a 2002 LSE V8 ;)
 
This is kind of what led to my engine getting a cooling system compromise a few years ago. It was the hardest problem to t-shoot. After a few hours of changing thermostats and everything else I could think of while being 40 miles from home at work, I finally cracked something and the water started rising up out of the degas with lots of carbon in suspension. The block or a head had cracked. I bought a new V6 with 110K on it the next day, swapped the engine in... My old engine had a 5 year old Autozone water pump in it with lifetime warranty. So I swapped that biotch over to the replacement engine, since it had been sitting a long time and had a rusty drive pulley on the water pump. I started the replacement engine, attempted to bleed it the normal way, no pressure on the heater vent-purge line unless I handed it a couple thousand RPMs. Tried everything but this thing was doing exactly what happened to the original engine! Thought about the DCCV which was not old, that wasn't it. The only thing left to try was the G damned water pump. I pulled it off and low and behold, the impeller was off the shaft! That was my original problem and I had moved it to the new engine! So yeah, I got a free replacement water pump but Autozone said they were not able to help me on the blown engine... Check your water pump before it is too late! Again, same symptom as yours, no pressure or flow on the heater purge line!!! I know, it is a brain buster of a problem for which there are almost no explainable symptoms. Good luck man!
 
milehighmikey said:
This is kind of what led to my engine getting a cooling system compromise a few years ago. It was the hardest problem to t-shoot. After a few hours of changing thermostats and everything else I could think of while being 40 miles from home at work, I finally cracked something and the water started rising up out of the degas with lots of carbon in suspension. The block or a head had cracked. I bought a new V6 with 110K on it the next day, swapped the engine in... My old engine had a 5 year old Autozone water pump in it with lifetime warranty. So I swapped that biotch over to the replacement engine, since it had been sitting a long time and had a rusty drive pulley on the water pump. I started the replacement engine, attempted to bleed it the normal way, no pressure on the heater vent-purge line unless I handed it a couple thousand RPMs. Tried everything but this thing was doing exactly what happened to the original engine! Thought about the DCCV which was not old, that wasn't it. The only thing left to try was the G damned water pump. I pulled it off and low and behold, the impeller was off the shaft! That was my original problem and I had moved it to the new engine! So yeah, I got a free replacement water pump but Autozone said they were not able to help me on the blown engine... Check your water pump before it is too late! Again, same symptom as yours, no pressure or flow on the heater purge line!!! I know, it is a brain buster of a problem for which there are almost no explainable symptoms. Good luck man!
Click to expand...
You know I was actually thinking about the water pump...why I didnt change it is just stupid....by the way...what brand should I go with or do you suggest?
 
milehighmikey said:
This is kind of what led to my engine getting a cooling system compromise a few years ago. It was the hardest problem to t-shoot. After a few hours of changing thermostats and everything else I could think of while being 40 miles from home at work, I finally cracked something and the water started rising up out of the degas with lots of carbon in suspension. The block or a head had cracked. I bought a new V6 with 110K on it the next day, swapped the engine in... My old engine had a 5 year old Autozone water pump in it with lifetime warranty. So I swapped that biotch over to the replacement engine, since it had been sitting a long time and had a rusty drive pulley on the water pump. I started the replacement engine, attempted to bleed it the normal way, no pressure on the heater vent-purge line unless I handed it a couple thousand RPMs. Tried everything but this thing was doing exactly what happened to the original engine! Thought about the DCCV which was not old, that wasn't it. The only thing left to try was the G damned water pump. I pulled it off and low and behold, the impeller was off the shaft! That was my original problem and I had moved it to the new engine! So yeah, I got a free replacement water pump but Autozone said they were not able to help me on the blown engine... Check your water pump before it is too late! Again, same symptom as yours, no pressure or flow on the heater purge line!!! I know, it is a brain buster of a problem for which there are almost no explainable symptoms. Good luck man!
Click to expand...
Hey Mike...the only thing that kept me from pulling the trigger is that I think I can actually feel the water moving in the upper radiator coolant hose...not sure but I was squeezing on some of the hoses last night and coolant would come out of the heater bleed hose ...and I swear when squeezing the hoses I could feel the coolant moving in them...not 100% sure ...the water pump is cheap enough to replace so I'm just going to do it
 
Hehe after reading my story, I would stay away from Autozone, unless their V8 pump is equipped with a metal impeller. Motorcraft would be my choice if I was to do it again. Good luck bro!
 
milehighmikey said:
Hehe after reading my story, I would stay away from Autozone, unless their V8 pump is equipped with a metal impeller. Motorcraft would be my choice if I was to do it again. Good luck bro!
Click to expand...
Update: After work I proceeded to try bleeding the system again and had my wife come out and rev it up to 2000-2500 RPMs ...nothing came out of heater bleed hose...would this confirm 100% that the water pump is totally gone?
 
Mine was doing that exact same thing before I found the radiator leaking.
My 15 year old water pump was wearing but not shot. I replaced it cuzz it was 15 years old and since I had all the fan shroud/radiator out of the way, seemed like the prudent thing to do.

mine would only bleed with the engine above 1500 rpm and only weak like.

hope this may help.
 
There is a hose with a middle aluminum connector that goes from the T-stat housing and has another hose connect to the aux pump...I'm almost wondering if that rubber hose that is crimped with the aluminum adapter might be shot...It certainly looks a little sketchy to say the least ...while visually inspecting the radiator...I cant ser any coolant leaking from it ...I will give it a better look after work tonight...I ordered the water pump ...should be here by the end of the week. ..I hope ...the temp outside is rising and I need to get this under control quickly
 
milehighmikey said:
This is kind of what led to my engine getting a cooling system compromise a few years ago. It was the hardest problem to t-shoot. After a few hours of changing thermostats and everything else I could think of while being 40 miles from home at work, I finally cracked something and the water started rising up out of the degas with lots of carbon in suspension. The block or a head had cracked. I bought a new V6 with 110K on it the next day, swapped the engine in... My old engine had a 5 year old Autozone water pump in it with lifetime warranty. So I swapped that biotch over to the replacement engine, since it had been sitting a long time and had a rusty drive pulley on the water pump. I started the replacement engine, attempted to bleed it the normal way, no pressure on the heater vent-purge line unless I handed it a couple thousand RPMs. Tried everything but this thing was doing exactly what happened to the original engine! Thought about the DCCV which was not old, that wasn't it. The only thing left to try was the G damned water pump. I pulled it off and low and behold, the impeller was off the shaft! That was my original problem and I had moved it to the new engine! So yeah, I got a free replacement water pump but Autozone said they were not able to help me on the blown engine... Check your water pump before it is too late! Again, same symptom as yours, no pressure or flow on the heater purge line!!! I know, it is a brain buster of a problem for which there are almost no explainable symptoms. Good luck man!
Click to expand...
After replacing the water pump and degas reservoir now I have just the opposite problem ...Coolant is shooting out of the heater bleeder valve like a hose...this is almost comical...Is this car possesed?
 
By the way my car was still overheating and steam was shooting out of the heater bleed valve like a steam kettle! I'm bringing it to a shop to have it professional bled tomorrow...I will give you an update how it goes
 
I think I'm going to get it checked for a blown Head Gasket while I'm there...just wanna make sure I'm not wasting my time with all this bleeding
 
joegr said:
It sounds like you have a lot of air in there.
Click to expand...

milehighmikey said:
The only thing left to try was the G damned water pump. I pulled it off and low and behold, the impeller was off the shaft!
Click to expand...
Wow! just amazing the knowledge this Lincolnvscadillac forum produces from Senior members who have worked on these cars for years and years...Joe you were right I had a huge air pocket in the system ...after having it bled professionally today I'm sitting at 195F and doesn't go past 205 at highway speeds ....Once again you were spot on...Mike you were right also...upon removing the water pump the plastic ring had corroded of and was stuck up in the propeller channel... I also replaced the Degas reservoir...with that being said you can go from underneath the car and fit your hand on the hose to slide it nice and easy onto metal adaper line...not sure if this was ever noted...I never seen it in any post...hope it helps out the next guy....but thanks for all your help Joe and Mike!!! You saved many gray hairs lol
 
milehighmikey said:
Right on man! Effing water pumps can be such a b*tch to troubleshoot. It cost me an engine!
Click to expand...
Mike you're a Fing Life saver!!!!!! Thank you so much for chiming in and saving me a lot of heartache....That could've ended really badly...Thanks so much man!
 
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