DCCV bypass question

joespanova

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The outlet ports to the heater core are controlled by solenoids. The core return port to engine is T'd into line that is also return from degas bottle. I'm considering bypassing aluminum supply lines to core with rubber heater hose and manual cutoffs. I'm over replacing the DCCV any more. Since the solenoids only control 2 lines to core , what's to stop the return from back feeding hot water into core? Seems like if this was an issue the functioning solenoids would do no better than manual cutoffs and hot water would still back feed into the core?
 
... what's to stop the return from back feeding hot water into core? ...
Because there is no circulation.
Water has to flow to transfer heat, and it can't flow if both ends of the circuit are not open.
 
I understand , but its possible warm water will radiate back up the line in to the core? 2000 LS. Then there would be no need to cutoff all 3 lines to core....I've had this car for years.
 
No, doesn't happen enough to measure. It's the same reason that you probably have to run your shower a little bit before you get hot water. The water in the line cools off and doesn't reheat because there is no circulation, even though the connection to the water heater is open.
 
No, doesn't happen enough to measure. It's the same reason that you probably have to run your shower a little bit before you get hot water. The water in the line cools off and doesn't reheat because there is no circulation, even though the connection to the water heater is open.
Makes sense. At least it'll be easier to block...LOL. Have you heard of anyone coming up with a way to block like my proposal , or some creative way?
 
Makes sense. At least it'll be easier to block...LOL. Have you heard of anyone coming up with a way to block like my proposal , or some creative way?
Not so much. The factory DCCV lasts six or so years (how much longer will you have this LS). The aftermarket ones last a week to a few months. I had two LSes and kept both to close to 250K miles and about 15 years. I think I had to replace the DCCV twice on one of them, and three times on the other. It doesn't seem to be worth trying to hack. Note that the PCM sometimes opens the DCCV and turns on the aux pump for a little while after shutdown to reduce heat soak on the engine. You will be eliminating that ability. The heater core may fail (corrode and leak) sooner due to lack of circulation.
 
Not so much. The factory DCCV lasts six or so years (how much longer will you have this LS). The aftermarket ones last a week to a few months. I had two LSes and kept both to close to 250K miles and about 15 years. I think I had to replace the DCCV twice on one of them, and three times on the other. It doesn't seem to be worth trying to hack. Note that the PCM sometimes opens the DCCV and turns on the aux pump for a little while after shutdown to reduce heat soak on the engine. You will be eliminating that ability. The heater core may fail (corrode and leak) sooner due to lack of circulation.
I've replaced the DCCV 3 times already...the original and 2 aftermarket , although I believe at least 1 if not both were Motorcraft parts. Adding 2 shutoff valves shouldn't be any different than both solenoid valves closed all Summer? Only to be re-opened in the fall....my guess. I have it as a spare vehicle as long as it moves , which to this day still drives about like new.
 
Use a Bosch DCCV and just replace it. We know the no name after market ones won't last long.
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... Adding 2 shutoff valves shouldn't be any different than both solenoid valves closed all Summer? ...
No, it would be very different. The DCCV, even in summer, opens every single time you turn the key off. (It is wide open when the power is off.) And, if the engine is hot, the aux pump runs for several minutes after cutoff. Also, while running, once the cabin temperature reaches the set point, the valves open a little bit to reduce unneeded cooling and increase de-humidification.
 

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