hite337
Hite Performance
You are welcome. I am glad to see this write up is helping a few people change the degas bottle...and the cabin air filter (andrizzle)...lol
Degas bottle replacement with pics
- Thread starter hite337
- Start date
You are welcome. I am glad to see this write up is helping a few people change the degas bottle...and the cabin air filter (andrizzle)...lol
Great write up. Hey, is there a write up with pics on how to bleed an 03 LS V8 cooling system. It looks pretty complex. It is not feasible to do my own degas bottle replacement then not be able to bleed it.
thanks
thanks
Tru-Blu
Dedicated LVC Member
Outstanding tech write-up. I don't need to do this yet, but am glad that this was here so I could get some tips/tricks before I do!
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Click on "Tech Articles" at the top of the page
hite337
Hite Performance
Thanks, I have now done this project on 5 LS's....2 of my own and 3 others and I'm doing another this weekend. I have it down to about 30 minutes now...lol
ok...i thought we had it.....but the overheating problem continued. We have bled the system several times to no avail. We then replaced the thermostat housing (not plastic this time around) and replaced thermostat while we were at it. Bought another degas bottle and replaced that (first one the cap was defective, we think). We have have followed the purging instructions to a T, at least 5 times. Then, when I drive the car with the a/c on, and let it idle for 10-15 minutes after engine is warm, the temp starts to climb....240+....at that point if i turn on the heater, temp comes back down. Any ideas? My husband is now thinking fan problems...doesn't think fan is kicking in high speed with a/c on. Is this a common problem? At wits end....haven't had my car in 2 months!!
hite337
Hite Performance
To test the fan I believe you start your car and note the fan speed. Then turn on your AC and see if the fan speed increases. I may be wrong but I think the fan always runs on high with the AC on. I converted both my LS's to electric fans so I cant test this theory. Maybe someone else will chime in that knows for sure.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, the climate control needs to be on 90 when bleeding the cooling system. Having the AC compressor on isn't required, but may help the engine heat up sooner. Having the AC compressor on will kick the engine fan to a higher speed if you are checking the fan.
Is that the gen I cruise control module? (Wild guess...)
Well if it is, it would explain my cruise control problem (dash lights and buttons work, just no throttle action). While doing my front brakes, I noticed the top half of the aluminum turned to powder and fell off. I'll see if I can dig it up and make a new post. Thanks!
hite337
Hite Performance
Hey...thats my car...lol. I never noticed what that was...I didnt notice anything out of place or strange when I had the wheel well open. I will check when I get home and let you know
YOu have a part number? On rockauto I see a listing for the Coolant Recovery Tank Hose..but not for the Coolant Recovery Tank itself.
It's a $154 MSRP part at the dealer..
Mines leaking again. 2002 V8 LSE that I've had since new. Replaced it the first time around 65k miles or so back in 2006. Now it's 5 years later and I'm at 142k miles..and it's cracked/leaking again.
do a search on this forum the term "clockspring" and see if the associated symptoms for a bad clockspring match up with your cruise control issue..
hite337
Hite Performance
Hi everyone,
First off, thanks Hite for the great post! Definitely is going to make my life a lot easier at some point.
Have a quick question for everyone. I have a problem where everything points to a cracked bottle. The car (02 V8) drives great, occasionally stutters a bit on a downshift (only when the RPM is under 2k, and immediately stops when pushed up over that). No CEL is triggered, just a rough drive. Seems like its running rich.
But the problem I have is that the coolant will dump itself on the ground after a long drive. The pool being just behind the driver side front tire.
Its hot here, 100-110F daytime highs, and after good day of driving I'll come out to the garage the next morning with a big pool of coolant on the floor. If I'm lazy and don't degas it properly it'll let me know by running with the temperature needle sitting just on top of the mid-point line. Once I fill it properly it runs perfectly in the middle until it dumps again.
So my question: is this a sign of a cracked bottle, or could there be another crack somewhere in the region?
I figure that since it dumps infrequently that it must be leaking from a high point in the system. Is it possible that the residual engine heat is boiling the coolant after the car has stopped (with no fan/airflow to cool it and kept inside in a garage). I assume that's not normal behavior, but would that be the tank, the cap, or something completely unrelated?
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
First off, thanks Hite for the great post! Definitely is going to make my life a lot easier at some point.
Have a quick question for everyone. I have a problem where everything points to a cracked bottle. The car (02 V8) drives great, occasionally stutters a bit on a downshift (only when the RPM is under 2k, and immediately stops when pushed up over that). No CEL is triggered, just a rough drive. Seems like its running rich.
But the problem I have is that the coolant will dump itself on the ground after a long drive. The pool being just behind the driver side front tire.
Its hot here, 100-110F daytime highs, and after good day of driving I'll come out to the garage the next morning with a big pool of coolant on the floor. If I'm lazy and don't degas it properly it'll let me know by running with the temperature needle sitting just on top of the mid-point line. Once I fill it properly it runs perfectly in the middle until it dumps again.
So my question: is this a sign of a cracked bottle, or could there be another crack somewhere in the region?
I figure that since it dumps infrequently that it must be leaking from a high point in the system. Is it possible that the residual engine heat is boiling the coolant after the car has stopped (with no fan/airflow to cool it and kept inside in a garage). I assume that's not normal behavior, but would that be the tank, the cap, or something completely unrelated?
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
I have a 02 V8 as well..142k miles. Had the same overheating/puddle behind drivers wheel symptoms you describe. Degas bottle was issue both times. First time was around 65k miles..second this past weekend. Stress cracks form from the inside out..almost in exact same locations on the bottle. Years of heat and lots of pressure take its toll on the plastic. Tip: Take your time bleeding the system after the degas bottle replacement. If it overheats after the first bleed. Let it cool completely, check the cooling tower tank level again..refill to the brim if necessary.
your stuttering issue is most likely a COP (Coil On plug) in the initial stages of failing. Gun it a few times and run the engine hard. YOu'll pretty soon trigger a CEL pointing to the failing COP. Or..go on ebay and order 8 and replace all 8. Total cost will be about $150 or so for all 8 combined. However..when u pull the plugs dont be shocked to find oil in your spark plug wells. If you do, time to replace Valve Cover Gaskets. Passenger side easy..rear bolts on the drivers side..not so much.
your stuttering issue is most likely a COP (Coil On plug) in the initial stages of failing. Gun it a few times and run the engine hard. YOu'll pretty soon trigger a CEL pointing to the failing COP. Or..go on ebay and order 8 and replace all 8. Total cost will be about $150 or so for all 8 combined. However..when u pull the plugs dont be shocked to find oil in your spark plug wells. If you do, time to replace Valve Cover Gaskets. Passenger side easy..rear bolts on the drivers side..not so much.
Thanks! Its good to know its just the bottle. Where are the cracks usually found? Could I see them with the bottle in place or am I going to have to take it off either way?
As for the stuttering, I thought that too. I had the valve cover gasket done a year or so back. There was some oil in there, I cleaned it up but got distracted by a bad rear wheel bearing and never changed the COPS. This stuttering has been going on for over a year and a half now, and hasn't seemed to get any worse over that time. Its also rare that I ever drive right at 50mph (which is seems to be the only speed it stutters at), it might give a quick single stutter while crossing 50mph, but over or under I can accelerate all I want, even gunning it and its smooth.
So basically I've ignored it until I figure I'll inevitably have to change the COPs.
Kevin
As for the stuttering, I thought that too. I had the valve cover gasket done a year or so back. There was some oil in there, I cleaned it up but got distracted by a bad rear wheel bearing and never changed the COPS. This stuttering has been going on for over a year and a half now, and hasn't seemed to get any worse over that time. Its also rare that I ever drive right at 50mph (which is seems to be the only speed it stutters at), it might give a quick single stutter while crossing 50mph, but over or under I can accelerate all I want, even gunning it and its smooth.
So basically I've ignored it until I figure I'll inevitably have to change the COPs.
Kevin
hite337
Hite Performance
Most likely you will have to remove the bottle to see the cracks. They usually form along the corners that are not visible with it in the car. They may not be obvious when you first look at it because they are small and only leak coolant when the bottle is heated up and it expands which explains why the coolant doesnt leak out when you fill the bottle cold. Very common problem with the LS
And change those COPS, 99% of the time a shudder or hesitation is caused by a misfire which doesnt always give you a CEL
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Totally agree 100% with everything here.
Note* First time I had a bad coil, I changed em all with ones from Ebay. Maybe about..50k miles later, had a misfire issue again..but this time the CEL went on within..a day or two. Let me right to the specific COP which I replaced. Fixed the issue. Maybe..30k miles later..another stutter followed by a CEL almost immediately. Led me to a different coil that I replaced. Fixed the issue. Running fine now. I ordered 4 more COP's just to have as spares in the garage.
Oh..and never had leaking valve cover gasket issues after the first time the VCG was replaced. Makes me wonder if oil in the wells truly is the problem when COP's fail
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Ford says it's a problem with the epoxy in the coil.
vinnmann11
LVC Member
Degas Bottle Purchase
From what I have seen, every parts store carries the same Dorman 603-207 degas bottle. However, some stores list a lifetime warranty and some a 1-yr warranty.
From what I have seen, every parts store carries the same Dorman 603-207 degas bottle. However, some stores list a lifetime warranty and some a 1-yr warranty.
hite337
Hite Performance
I think the local parts store can get a Motorcraft one but they'll have to order it. Internet may be cheaper tho
hite337
Hite Performance
No problem, I'm glad this writeup has helped so many people. All the bottles I have seen have had cracks in the same place as yours.