G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
you know what else would help... no plastic 
Degas bottle replacement with pics
- Thread starter hite337
- Start date
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
man I am catching HELL trying to get the lower hose off lol...I got the clamp pulled back (going off of the picture shown in the thread) and it's like that hose is baked on. As we know, there's no room to work next to the firewall, so I was wondering if anybody had any tips on how to get it outta there. Thanks in advance.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah, leave it attached to the degas bottle and disconnect it at the other end. Once you get the whole thing out, you can disconnect the hose. The OEM bottle comes with a new hose already attached. If you ordered the Doorman one instead, you are in for more grief than just the trouble of disconnecting the hose.
hite337
Hite Performance
If your bottle came with hoses just cut it. If not, put some channel lock pliers on it and work it back and forth till it breaks loose
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
I'm waiting for my new bottle to come in now...the online tracker said it will be here today so I'm trying to be proactive and get that bottle outta there ahead of time...I left the hose directly under the bottle on and am working on the other side by the firewall. I will try to get the channel locks on it, but from what I tried before, it's a no go.
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
and yes....unfortunately I have the dorman bottle....can you please give some insight as to what issues I will be facing?
You'll be doing this again next year since the Dorman has quality issues.
You will need to just keep prying on the hose and eventually it will come loose. If you can have someone pull up on the bottle while you try and loosen the hose might help too.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Your cap may not fit well enough to hold pressure.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=78739
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
EUREKA!!! I was able to get the hose off finally! However, I'm still waiting on the bottle to come in. Thanks for the insight on the aftermarket bottle. My main goal is to have by car up and running again finally after around 3-4 weeks of replacing parts and such. I'll have the knowledge of how to change out the bottle in the future when I go ahead and get the OEM version. Thanks to everybody as usual for all the help with this change. This place rocks!!!
hite337
Hite Performance
Yes the cap is junk and unfortunately you can't buy the Dorman cap separately and the caps that the parts stores sell (for the OEM bottle) do not fit the Dorman bottle.
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
Got the new bottle installed already. Did the bleed process up to the last step where I'm waiting for the engine to completely cool off before adding remaining coolant to the bottle. So far so good, no leaks or anything and the cap is on nice and tight & secure. Thanks for all the help and assistance, this thread helped out immensely.
hite337
Hite Performance
Glad it all worked out for you! Good luck with the LS
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
yea about that lol....turns out the Dorman was a bust lol...I do have a video of what its doing because it overheated again today. Just wanna make sure that what is happening is due to the cap on this POS degas bottle cap not sealing properly and is letting air into the system.
http://youtu.be/5P3Cdk4gLtY
http://youtu.be/5P3Cdk4gLtY
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
also...does anybody have any links to get to a good priced motorcraft/OEM bottle...yes, the one I should've purchased in the first place lol
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/lincoln/ls/cooling_system/expansion_tank.html
this place has a coolant reservoir tank brand named replacement...anybody have any insight on this brand as opposed to the dorman or motorcraft?
this place has a coolant reservoir tank brand named replacement...anybody have any insight on this brand as opposed to the dorman or motorcraft?
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
yea I know....but in my defense, I purchased the Dorman prior to looking on here. so that's really my fault for not checking the holy grail prior to buying lol
hite337
Hite Performance
I have never heard of that one. Motorcraft OEM is what you need and the cheapest I have ever seen them is $140ish
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
You wouldn't happen to have a site would ya?
I got mine from Tasca Parts. I purchased mine from their direct website but here is their ebay listing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-THUNDE...A-/230709297411?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-THUNDE...A-/230709297411?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true
The upper hose with an end cap - is that the bleeder valve?
Yeah, it comes with a new bleeder hose as well as a new lower hose. It doesn't come with a new bottle cap though.
Harlem1Der
Active LVC Member
I don't know if I'm not doing the bleed process correctly. When it comes to the stream coming out, is it supposed to be a slow trickle or should I be looking for a stream something like what comes out of a water fountain? After I do everything and I take my car for a drive, the fan kicks on again and the car starts to overheat, but nothing is leaking a all. Then when I turn the car off I can hear a bubbling as if air is in the system again. But when I do the bleed process again, there's an immediate stream of coolant...what am I doing wrong?
Is this the Dorman tank? See what Joe said about the cap not sealing properly. In my experience the flow from the bleeder is more of a trickle and less of a stream.
Hi All:
Replaced my degas (second time since Ive owned my 2002V8 lse..bought her new) bottle a couple months ago. All was well. The upper plastic connector (tube that connects to the thermostat tower) broke a couple weeks ago. Turns out the plastic began to crumble where it connects to the upper radatior hose. Couple pieces of the plastic fell out onto the ground (under hood) when I removed the hose...but I definitely didnt see ALL of the small pieces of plastic. May have fallen on ground..or may have gone into the cooling system.
Either way..replacement went fine..bled system per procedures. no over heat at all..but now I get no heat. Just barely room temp air from any/all vents. A/C still works fine and blows cold out of all vents. But no heat.
Doesnt sound like DCCV. Is it possible something is clogged? But if something was clogged...wouldnt I get overheat due to poor or lack of coolant circulation?
Also..after driving awhile both upper and lower radiator hoses (two fattest hoses on either side of engine) get warm/hot as they should. Ditto for the smaller diameter hoses going to/from the plastic part and the cooling tower.
Suggestions?
Replaced my degas (second time since Ive owned my 2002V8 lse..bought her new) bottle a couple months ago. All was well. The upper plastic connector (tube that connects to the thermostat tower) broke a couple weeks ago. Turns out the plastic began to crumble where it connects to the upper radatior hose. Couple pieces of the plastic fell out onto the ground (under hood) when I removed the hose...but I definitely didnt see ALL of the small pieces of plastic. May have fallen on ground..or may have gone into the cooling system.
Either way..replacement went fine..bled system per procedures. no over heat at all..but now I get no heat. Just barely room temp air from any/all vents. A/C still works fine and blows cold out of all vents. But no heat.
Doesnt sound like DCCV. Is it possible something is clogged? But if something was clogged...wouldnt I get overheat due to poor or lack of coolant circulation?
Also..after driving awhile both upper and lower radiator hoses (two fattest hoses on either side of engine) get warm/hot as they should. Ditto for the smaller diameter hoses going to/from the plastic part and the cooling tower.
Suggestions?