This morning I got into my car to go to work, started the car and there it was staring at me square in the face; the dreaded E. I got the transmission rebuilt a few months ago with a 24k 2yr warranty. As i was drivjng to the shop, it slammed into 2nd gear and It disappeared. it came back at a red light, then Slammed again and went away. it did this until i literally was 5 blocks from the shop and it shifted perfectly without any E. i was so annoyed. The owner left on vacation so I'm stuck with a guy whose telling me my PCM is causing the E and to keep driving it until the symptoms come back. Do you guys think this is necessary or is the solenoid failing again and they just want to play lazy and drain my pocket?
E is back in less than 2.5k
- Thread starter flash2010
- Start date
JoshMcMadMac
Dedicated LVC Member
If it gets bad, take him for a test drive to experience it happening. If it was recently rebuilt, it would be quite a coincidence for the PCM to be the culprit.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
they very well may have misdiagnosed the original problem with the car, rebuild the trans and never fixed the original issue.
they also may not have fix the tran correctly.
the only way to tell for sure would be to properly diagnose the car.
they also may not have fix the tran correctly.
the only way to tell for sure would be to properly diagnose the car.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I would approach it this way.
You diagnosed the problem as the transmission.
I paid you what you quoted to fix the problem that I had.
I still have the problem and you still have my money, fix it or give me my money back.
Of course, I would try to say all that in a nicer way.
did you try clearing your shift schedule and recalibrating?
you could probably get your $ back as noted above, but clearing the shift parameters is what i would do. it is free after all...
if problem persisted and the car was worth it i would take it to lincoln.
you could probably get your $ back as noted above, but clearing the shift parameters is what i would do. it is free after all...
if problem persisted and the car was worth it i would take it to lincoln.
Well it shifts fine now, i think the E could've saved my skin if I only would've stayed home when it came on. Coming home from work some a$shole slammed his brakes. Long story short, i swerved and hit another car. Now I have a huge dent in my fender. On her car its a damaged fender, part of the bumper, and maybe a piece of her mirror. Her hood it pushed up a little bit from the impact. The guy who slammed his brakes was long gone and I'm left to blame.
***************************************
* ANNOUNCEMENT *
***************************************
* DONT SLAM YOUR F**KING BRAKES IF NO *
* ONE IS AHEAD OF YOU. *
***************************************
~End announcement.
***************************************
* ANNOUNCEMENT *
***************************************
* DONT SLAM YOUR F**KING BRAKES IF NO *
* ONE IS AHEAD OF YOU. *
***************************************
~End announcement.
RigsLS
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Stop tailgating people, only reason he slammed on his brakes was because he couldn't see your headlights you were so far up on his @ss.
If you had followed at a safe and moderate distance you wouldn't have had to swerve and pile into other objects.
Seen it a hundred times.
By default humans tailgate too closely because in todays rat race everyone has somewhere to go and needs to get there first.
Say what you want, you were following too close and he taught you a lesson.
Glad to hear you are OK.
If you had followed at a safe and moderate distance you wouldn't have had to swerve and pile into other objects.
Seen it a hundred times.
By default humans tailgate too closely because in todays rat race everyone has somewhere to go and needs to get there first.
Say what you want, you were following too close and he taught you a lesson.
Glad to hear you are OK.
how did you get rid of the 'E'?
that sucks when ppl do that, but still you need to be a bit more cautious.
i had that happen to me, except i stopped in time but the guy behind me didnt. he tried to run but i chased him. good thing he got scared and stopped bc my low fuel light was on..
that sucks when ppl do that, but still you need to be a bit more cautious.
i had that happen to me, except i stopped in time but the guy behind me didnt. he tried to run but i chased him. good thing he got scared and stopped bc my low fuel light was on..
Speaking of slamming on brakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HROigWi-CcU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HROigWi-CcU
RigsLS
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If that was my personal recording, it'd be all over the 6'o clock new.
The E went away by itself. I haven't seen it back since.
During the time of braking, I mashed the brakes twice. It engaged the first time but it wasn't enough to slow down in time, so i quickly mashed it another time. The second time the brakes had a lot of resistance which had barely any effect on slowing the car and that's where I had no other option but to switch lanes. At the shop, the mechanic pointed out that the brake fluid was barely on the min mark. Today I added more and now the brakes work as they should after bringing the car up to 55mph and slamming the in the same manner. ATS engaged and the tires screeched. None of that happened prior to the accident. A simple $5 bottle of brake fluid could've avoided the $2k damage.
During the time of braking, I mashed the brakes twice. It engaged the first time but it wasn't enough to slow down in time, so i quickly mashed it another time. The second time the brakes had a lot of resistance which had barely any effect on slowing the car and that's where I had no other option but to switch lanes. At the shop, the mechanic pointed out that the brake fluid was barely on the min mark. Today I added more and now the brakes work as they should after bringing the car up to 55mph and slamming the in the same manner. ATS engaged and the tires screeched. None of that happened prior to the accident. A simple $5 bottle of brake fluid could've avoided the $2k damage.
What's funny yet annoying is that the headlight for the car I hit is $1040 and the bumper and fender together was barely $800 combined. If anyone has a '06 Avalon xenon headlamp assembly, for a reasonable price let me know.
After work I experienced the same deal again even with a full brake reservoir. I'm having a hunch maybe my booster is going out or I'm losing pressure at one of the vaccume hoses. Would a live data scan tool be able to tell me anything about the brake system?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't think it would help with the symptoms you describe.
Does the brake pedal get too hard to push all the way down? - If so, then maybe it's the vacuum booster, the vacuum check valve, or the related vacuum plumbing.
Is it instead that the pedal travel and feel is the same (or even easier to push)? - If so, then it is very likely to be the master cylinder. This is not an unheard of failure mode for master cylinders.
The brakes feel too hard to push all the way down. It feels like how it would when you press the brakes while the car is off. It goes down a little and then it's rock hard. I do have a brake circuit switch malfunction, but the guy the shop said it shouldn't have any effect on how the brakes should feel and engage. Anyones 2cents here too would be appreciated.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
What's the exact code?
Is it C1286 or C1287? If so, get another mechanic. Either can be an indication of mechanical failure of the brake vacuum booster. Code + your symptoms = pretty clear diagnosis of problem.
On the other hand, something in the B27xx range means the pedal position sensor is bad or miscalibrated. This can cause the ABS to fight you when it triggers. When the ABS triggers, it can push the brake pedal back up against your foot. This too will prevent full braking force. Again, new mechanic if you told you this fault isn't serious.
Is it C1286 or C1287? If so, get another mechanic. Either can be an indication of mechanical failure of the brake vacuum booster. Code + your symptoms = pretty clear diagnosis of problem.
On the other hand, something in the B27xx range means the pedal position sensor is bad or miscalibrated. This can cause the ABS to fight you when it triggers. When the ABS triggers, it can push the brake pedal back up against your foot. This too will prevent full braking force. Again, new mechanic if you told you this fault isn't serious.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
So, you want that one to work so that the torque converter will unlock and stop fighting you.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It doesn't seem like it should be.
I think that you need to find someone else to diagnose and fix this before you have more trouble. If nothing else, if there is another crash, a lawyer would have evidence that you knew you had a problem and didn't get it fixed.