engine&tranny rebuid idea

Doing massive engine work to a non-computer controlled engine is relatively easy. On one as computer dependent as the LS is, good luck! The computer (which controls the whole electrical system; Ask the One Lap of America car guys) has a very limited range of adjustment, even with the Xcalibrator. Don't forget you'll have to do something with the transmission...
 
Doing massive engine work to a non-computer controlled engine is relatively easy. On one as computer dependent as the LS is, good luck! The computer (which controls the whole electrical system; Ask the One Lap of America car guys) has a very limited range of adjustment, even with the Xcalibrator. Don't forget you'll have to do something with the transmission...



There are ways to work with the electrical system on these cars when swapping to a different engine. It is not easy and it is not cheap which is most people's hang up here.

The reason the OLOA guy's did the extent of the mods to piggyback the PCM and electrical is mainly because they didn't have nearly as much control of the stock PCM as what we do now. There have been allot of developments since they took a crack at it. I am not saying it will be easy but it is surely doable without gutting the car.

The transmission is the easiest part of the swap. Either run a 5R55S from the Mustang or run a 4R70W standalone. You could run another tranny if you want but those two are the ones that come to mind when I think of swapping to another Ford engine such as the 2v or 3v 4.6 V8.
 
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The reason the OLOA guy's did the extent of the mods to piggyback the PCM and electrical is mainly because they didn't have nearly as much control of the stock PCM as what we do now. There have been allot of developments since they took a crack at it. I am not saying it will be easy but it is surely doable without gutting the car.

As they were Ford engineers with Ford support, I would wager they had more "control" than we do now.
 
As they were Ford engineers with Ford support, I would wager they had more "control" than we do now.



"Ford Engineer" is a very very broad term. That is like saying that all doctors can perform open heart surgery because they have the title of doctor. Just not the case. There are many different areas of specialty in the vehicular scene just like the medical scene also. If they had an engineer that was locked on with the computer tuning/integration side of things then they could have used the LS PCM to control the other engine with the addition of a few custom machined parts (namely trigger wheels). I am not speaking out of my ass here. I am a custom tuner and have done projects like this before. I know what goes into the programming for these PCM's and engines to make them work. It would not be an easy project but it is doable like I said before. I do not recommend something like this to be tackled by just anyone though. It can and probably will get expensive real quick due to the amount of custom work involved.
 
yeah, i understand, but it will be garage kept...onlu driven on accaisions...plus me and the car has been thru alot, it needs to be rebuilt, so why not go nutz with it of you can?...

after its done it we like a pussy black hole...sucking them in like a SC...

why do you people doubt?...
At the upper limit of 'street-ability', you can have about 450 HP, NA for $12,000-$15,000. The engine will be somewhat touchy, and since my estimate doesn't include suspension work, you'll need to spend extra to get any use from your project.

Everything you're planning leads you away from a comfortable cruiser. On the other hand, although I've not found that females are enchanted, I often have kids on bicycles clustered around to ask questions as they discover the interior changes I've done, such as the cage, instruments etc.
KS
 
Befor i even sunk a dime into it. id wait to see what kind of results the turbo kit gets and how the rest of the car (mainly transmission) will be able to handle it.

Also for the money, if we are talking 10-15k dollars or even more. Id gut the thing completly in regards to electrical wireing, dash wireing, its all gotta go. Then put the money into making a T56 and 03-04 cobra engine fit, or built 5.0L stroker, even a 5.8L stroker. then youd have to do a custom gauge set up and re wire the whole thing. If you get rid of one thing, you have to get rid of it all becuase you need 100% of whats in the car already, for the car to work. from ignition to transmission. The benifits wouldnt be questionable which gets rid of alot of the "what if" factor. You know the 03/04 cobra engine can make power, you know the t56 can handle it. That way the hardest part will be getting it to run, once it runs your pretty much there. you will have alot of room for upgrades also, becuase i for one know that even if we achieve 350rwhp, we will want more and the 3.9L cant offer it. the cobra engine has the aftermarket support to make 600hp happen without being pushed to the limits. the T-56 has the aftermarket support to take 600hp without flinching. A rear diff swap with 4.10 gears would be alot better then "something between a 3.31 and 3.54" also with the T-56 you wont suffer gas mileage loss and still be able to do 70mph on the highway at a reasonable rpm. Even a 4.6L with aftermarket mods would be better weather it be N/A or forced induction. i know the cobra engines are still ALOT of money.

In my eyes 350rwhp for 10-15k is ricer talk. Its without a doubt a total waste of money. Its your money but in my eyes and 80% of everyone in this thread, that includes the big shots who have been here forever, and the people who have turbo or supercharged there car, what your wanting do to is STUPID. thats the only way to describe it. everyone else was nice and kinda through shots at you that would hide the truth and perhaps save a fight. im telling you right now its stupid. its a horrible investment for such a cheap power gain. if you want 300-350RWHP, buy a nitrous kit for 800$. if you want real horsepower, buy a different car, or start looking at different engines swaps where that 10-15k dollars will actually be useful.
 
it was an all-timer...

LSVIPDEMON
ElliotNessLS
dunitright
midi junkie
thethirdeye88
 
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Porting and polishing has been done to at least one set of LS V6 heads, so it can be done. The guy who did it didn't get a chance to install them, though, as he had other problems that resulted in an engine replacement, so we don't know if it will make any difference.

To the OP, I think you have the right idea: Go big or go home. More power to you if you can git 'er done.

i had my v6 heads ported and polished and my car made 8 more horse and 6 more torque on stock heads. funny thing was the custom tune used on both sets was done with the ported heads. the same tune made more power on stock heads. what a waste of money and time that was. worth a shot though. custom building this engine would be sooo exspensive but can be done. custom crank, rods pistons, cams. lighter valves which cost as much as an engine, would be good. i say put a bigger fuel pump in, nitrous the hell out of it, just watch a wideband and an egt gauge. if it blows, buy a used engine for like $800 and back the nitrous off just a little. f--it man these engines are a breeze to change. and their cheap as hell used. im on my third setup, takes me 5 hours to swap.
 
Why not try and find a 3.5 V6 and see if that will swap in place. The blocks look very simular. This motor is good for 26 more HP and and about 32 more torque, this is compared to the Gen2 V6. If th intake or the accesories will bolt up. I guess until you have the two motors next to each other to tell the difference if any.
 
well quik. remember the nitrous backfire? it broke a valve retainer which we replaced from one of my extra sets of heads. few weeks later a ticking sound made me pull the valve cover. a few of my mechanical bucket tappets were chewed up and the cam was scratched a little.once again went to my extras and replaced the tappets. used a magnet to fish the metal out and thought we had pieced the trashed tappets back together thus removing all the metal. wrong! some metal shavings made their way through the oil and a few weeks later while racing a buddies m5 i blew the front passenger side piston and rod out the side of the block. my buddy checked it out and says i starved it for oil and had the bearing spun and the load blew it out. it was pretty crazy throwing oil under the tires at over 120mph. got pretty loose on me but made it through. put a used motor in that i paid 700 for, now were back in business
 
wow man! sorry to hear that - I remember talking with you just after it backfired....

You have a lot of determination!!!
 
well quik. remember the nitrous backfire? it broke a valve retainer which we replaced from one of my extra sets of heads. few weeks later a ticking sound made me pull the valve cover. a few of my mechanical bucket tappets were chewed up and the cam was scratched a little.once again went to my extras and replaced the tappets. used a magnet to fish the metal out and thought we had pieced the trashed tappets back together thus removing all the metal. wrong! some metal shavings made their way through the oil and a few weeks later while racing a buddies m5 i blew the front passenger side piston and rod out the side of the block. my buddy checked it out and says i starved it for oil and had the bearing spun and the load blew it out. it was pretty crazy throwing oil under the tires at over 120mph. got pretty loose on me but made it through. put a used motor in that i paid 700 for, now were back in business

Damn I would've paid to see that.
 

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