ETC failsafe: P2107/P2106/P2105 - No misfire

I wonder if the foot pedal is going "out of range". There should be a way to test that with an Ohm meter..

Or... you could try taping a block of wood under the pedal... just thick enough to prevent that last 1/8-1/4" of pedal travel.

You definitely seem to like pushing the gas pedal through the floorboard... so maybe just maybe. ???
 
It'll do it with the pedal half way down. It mostly seems that some aggressively acceleration triggers it.

I did see a Cyl 6 misfire during one of my trips yesterday, it was 1 misfire. But when the vehicle went into failsafe, there was no misfire logged.
 
If the gas pedal does test bad... Don't buy aftermarket. You'd be better off getting a good used one from a junkyard first... as long as there's no sign of water damage on the interior of the donor car.

Should be much cheaper than a new OEM pedal. Get 2 just in case. Most junkyards allow returns.
 
I logged while driving.
First pic is throttle and MAF when it went into Failsafe.
Second pic is throttle and MAF while in Failsafe

Screenshot_2020-07-03-12-53-03.jpg


Screenshot_2020-07-03-12-53-27.jpg
 
04_Sport_LS said:
That is unless Joe has been holding out on us.;)

.
Click to expand...

lmao

Well, I did order a MAF from LKQ. $50 and comes with 6 month warranty, and also they accept returns. (Ford wants $358 cad for MAF).

So what I've done until now:
Replaced TPS
Replaced throttlebody
New high end coils
New plugs (factory gapped 0.93)
Seafoamed engine
Seafoamed gas tank
02 sensor replaced last year.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I suppose it could still be the gas pedal too.
Click to expand...

Look at the first graph when it went into failsafe. You can see my Throttle position go straight down, but the MAF G/S shows some kind of hick up? It goes up and drops slightly then goes up again, boom failsafe. Am I just reading into the graph?

ls hickup.jpg
 
I think you are to the point where you need to start testing individual components... or start checking the connectors and wiring harnesses.

I've said this before. If the "Green" mechanics messed up the connector to the TB... then maybe there are other connectors that have broken pins inside... or are corroded.

You may want to triple check the connector at the TB and the TPS. Quite a few people on this forum have bent or broken a pin on these... or messed up the connector.

Corrosion can be a factor too if the connector doesn't seal properly.

Is your air cleaner box sealed tight? Are you 100% sure there is no bugs or debris on the MAF?

Are you using a cold air intake kit with an "oil-able" air filter? Did you over oil the filter?
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I think you are to the point where you need to start testing individual components... or start checking the connectors and wiring harnesses.

You may want to triple check the connector at the TB and the TPS. Quite a few people on this forum have bent or broken a pin on these... or messed up the connector.

Corrosion can be a factor too if the connector doesn't seal properly.

Is your air cleaner box sealed tight? Are you 100% sure there is no bugs or debris on the MAF?

Are you using a cold air intake kit with an "oil-able" air filter? Did you over oil the filter?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions.
So I inspected the pins on the spark plug cables, because I had to reverse them, they looked good.

I looked at the connectors for the TB and TPS, I didn't notice anything. But I will triple check it.

I did notice the MAF had a little bit of dust on it. So I pulled it out and used a compressed air can, and blew air at it to clean it out. I used the can because they are electronically safe. Should I dip it in some 99% alcohol? Is that safe? I called LKQ and placed one on order.

The air filter itself is pretty clean, side from a caterpillar that managed to make its way in. I cleaned that out.

I'm not using a CAI, I want to tho lol. But it is possible the previous owner or Green Mechanics sprayed something.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Duh... went back and looked at the pics. No CAI. That answers that question. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

But what about the Forscan Log?
Notice the dip, or 'hickup' in the MAF when I WOT? That was right when it Failsafed. I drove over half an hour, and it did not do that at other WOT intervals. Is that something out of the ordinary?

I mean it makes the MAF look like a dirty bastard here, but what if its pointing to something else?
To me, it looks like either there was a moment air couldn't be read, or the PCM decided not to pull air for a split second (throwing off the fuel mix ratio) causing the failsafe?
 
Yes, that would be a huge gap, getting close to 1/2 inch.
The factory spec is 1.0 mm to 1.1 mm (0.039" to 0.043")
 
I really think you need to triple check the pins and connectors at the TB, TPS, and MAF.

Use s bright flashlight to look in there... and it wouldn't hurt to use a small pick type tool... to GENTLY pry on the pins.

If one is cracked and ready to break... you'll find out. A bad pin or corroded connector can cause high resistance... which could play mind games with the electronics.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I really think you need to triple check the pins and connectors at the TB, TPS, and MAF.

Use s bright flashlight to look in there... and it wouldn't hurt to use a small pick type tool... to GENTLY pry on the pins.

If one is cracked and ready to break... you'll find out. A bad pin or corroded connector can cause high resistance... which could play mind games with the electronics.
Click to expand...

I will do just that. I don't know If I have time tomorrow, but If I do, then I'll give the connectors a thorough one over. ty
 
I forgot the 0 meant 0.039-0.043 ..thinking this will be the last time I display gap specs. I made this same mistake 2 or 3 other times :/
 
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