Extra hp?

IMO keeping up a high mileage gen 1 is nearly a fruitless effort now a days. Just drive it and take it one day at a time. I'm astonished when I see one on the road - between the cooling system, tensioners, transmission etc.

And I would let an LS beat my Coyote, not worth the ticket.
 
stugots said:
IMO keeping up a high mileage gen 1 is nearly a fruitless effort now a days.
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High milage Gen 2's are almost as bad. Besides... if you don't keep up on maintenace... it's only gonna get worse.

As far as a ticket... it would have been worth it. Punk ass kid that cackles up an down my road all the time. My next door neighbor has kids... and there are no sidewalks. (rural area) Neighbor went down and had a talk with the punks mom. That helped for a while... even then he was still revving the engine as he went by.

Guess what??? Haven't heard a thing since he got showed up by a pokey Lincoln. He must be going the opposite way now. :cool:
 
04_Sport_LS said:
You don't have to replace the coolant to use a hydrometer or refractometer.
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Never heard of these before, but it makes sense. I will see about buying one. Just purchased the obd 2 adapter to check actual coolant temp. Should arrive Mon.
I really appreciate all the advice you guys give, wish I could return the favor.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
High milage Gen 2's are almost as bad. Besides... if you don't keep up on maintenace... it's only gonna get worse.

As far as a ticket... it would have been worth it. Punk ass kid that cackles up an down my road all the time. My next door neighbor has kids... and there are no sidewalks. (rural area) Neighbor went down and had a talk with the punks mom. That helped for a while... even then he was still revving the engine as he went by.

Guess what??? Haven't heard a thing since he got showed up by a pokey Lincoln. He must be going the opposite way now. :cool:
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I seem to be in the minority of Mustang owners. I had a modded 2013-2014 Mustang try to incite a race the other day being a real di**. Almost as bad as the Mopar guys around Detroit, it's like I'm getting hunted down.

I couldn't hook up if I needed to with my Blizzaks and the 10 speed anyway. ;)
 
The ls ss said:
Never heard of these before, but it makes sense. I will see about buying one. Just purchased the obd 2 adapter to check actual coolant temp. Should arrive Mon.
I really appreciate all the advice you guys give, wish I could return the favor.
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Good Deal! Which one did you end up purchasing?
 
The ls ss said:
I do have windows, not a big fan of apple.
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Okay you can download the App for free ...Forscan is the only way to go when it comes to this car...If you have any questions feel free to ask but it's pretty user friendly
 
I have a gen 2 with 122,7xx miles and the only coolant related part I've had to replace is the thermostat housing. On a unrelated note my ac doesn't seem to get very cold and I just had it recharged and got the rubber washers that go into the condenser replaced because it was leaking from there but now after a few months it seems to be blowing Luke warm again. Could be the dccv again it was replaced with non motorcraft part.
 
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Lincoln05V8 said:
I have a gen 2 with 122,7xx miles and the only coolant related part I've had to replace is the thermostat housing. On a unrelated note my ac doesn't seem to get very cold and I just had it recharged and got the rubber washers that go into the condenser replaced because it was leaking from there but now after a few months it seems to be blowing Luke warm again. Could be the dccv again it was replaced with non motorcraft part.
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It could be the Heater Valve (DCCV) but it could be several other things also ...where did you have the AC system serviced?
 
Lincoln05V8 said:
but now after a few months it seems to be blowing Luke warm again
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You probably still have a leak in the A/C system... or a new leak developed.

DCCV is for heat only... not A/C. If you unplug the DCCV... it will not flow coolant to make heat. If you still get warm air after unplugging the DCCV... it's most likely an A/C issue.
 
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04_Sport_LS said:
You probably still have a leak in the A/C system... or a new leak developed...
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I agree that this best fits his description of the symptoms, and this is where I would start.

04_Sport_LS said:
... If you unplug the DCCV... it will not flow coolant to make heat. If you still get warm air after unplugging the DCCV... it's most likely an A/C issue.
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Unfortunately, this is completely wrong. If you unplug the DCCV, you get full heat all the time. The valves are powered to close them. Unpowered is open.
 
AmsterDutch said:
Okay you can download the App for free ...Forscan is the only way to go when it comes to this car...If you have any questions feel free to ask but it's pretty user friendly
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If you have Android, Torque runs smoother than Forscan and is perfectly fine for engine temp and general CEL P____ codes. Anything beyond the standardized OBDII things is where Forscan takes over. I use Torque [Pro] on a retired Nexus 5x most of the time while driving, mainly to monitor temp

Forscan on Windows is also more powerful than the read/reset functions in the mobile app
 
I got the obd2 hooked up, the car battery was nearly dead, got codes. Had several codes about circuit failures and circuit shorts. It says all windows are shorting to battery. Also I have a code saying cyl 8 misfire detected, and cyl 8 misfire detected on startup. Any suggestions? Didnt start it to watch coolant temp, I am not feeling well, and it is cold out. Hopefully tomorrow or Saturday.

Why didnt this misfire set off the check engine light?
 
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The ls ss said:
I...It says all windows are shorting to battery. ...
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No, it does not.

Please post the actual (five character) codes that you are getting, along with which module that each comes from.

Ideally, post a copy of the Forscan report that you can save as a txt file.
 
I don't know if it came through, but these are the codes that were on. Cleared them, gonna see which ones reappear.
 

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The ls ss said:
I don't know if it came through, but these are the codes that were on. Cleared them, gonna see which ones reappear.
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So when you get your battery to adequate power ...use the " live" feed and choose misfires detected you can then see in real time if its misfiring on #8
 
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