Finally getting around to it..

Missing Linc'

Missing Linc'

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Well, the passenger side rear wheel bearing is on its last leg so I figured I should stop fukking around and go replace it.. Gonna do both at the same time. Any advice you guys have to offer is welcome. I looked for a write-up but didnt see anything, most of the threads were for front wheel bearings. Gonna be tearing into her bright and early tomorrow morning.

Edit : Joe if you have a link or something to the manual for this that would be ideal :D
 
your a smart fella so I'll leave out the BS. Biggest thing is, when you put it back together you have to make damn sure that the axle is seated all the way into the hub, or it will come loose, and ruin the new bearing.

obviously you know you have to go to a machine shop and have the bearing pressed out, then the new in.

And make sure you have alot of WD-40 cuz my axle was frozen inside my hub, and the metal is pretty soft so it mushrooms very easy.
 
How do you know if you are having wheel bearing issues? I'm trying to pin point the issue I'm having thanks
 
Its a hum from the bearing, it will kinda sound like you have snow tires on that wheel and if it gets bad enough it will also shake.
 
I got a 'round tuit' at the bolt store the other day. Mine is wood, about an inch across and about a quarter inch thick. It actually says 'round tuit' on it and best of all, they gave it to me!
KS
 
So hows this sh!t gonna go down, is there like a big bolt/nut behind the rotor holding the hub to the halfshaft/axle or something? Im a complete newb to IRS and technology in general. Carbs and solid axles FTW :shifty:
 
yes, its similar to a front wheel drive, the caliper and rotor come off (IIRC) and the big nut is in the middle of the hub, behind a metal cover. its 36mm I beleive.

then you just remove the upper ball joint,tie rod, lower ball (not really a ball joint, just a bolt) and then tap...(cuz you cant hit it with a BFH) out the axle, ten head to your local machine shop. I think they charged me 30$ to press it in/out.
 
221??? Damn i think my tq wrench only goes to 150 or so?? The two caliper bolts im pointing to in the picture were a complete :q:q:q:q and thus cause my knuckle carnage lol, grabbin a drink and going back out, un-bolted that bar(tie rod?) towards the rear, lower control arm is next. I need to find some wd40 or pbblaster first tho.

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DSCF4010.jpg
 
oh! what size is the hub retainer nut? looks like a 30mm maybe?? need to go buy one of those.
 
loosen the axle nut BEFORE removing the upper and lower otherwise its a bit** to get off..

I work at a trucking company and used a 3/4inch drive tq wrench for big trucks.
 
Alright Ill do that then, for the upper control arm, do you have to remove it from the body or what? I cant get that sob off.
 
no, there is a nut under the top that comes off, then you pop the ball joint out the top...but it may spin...which usually means the ball joint is bad...

the actual stud has an 8mm head on it so you can hold it while unthreading the bolt.
 
I suppose you could take the whole control arm off, it should still fit in the press.

BTW if you do take it off, when you re-tighten the control arm bolts, make sure everything is at ride height or it will squeak.
 
lol @ the knuckle carnage. Mine looked the same after changing my front wheel bearing. But mine was from something really dumb. I was trying to pull the plugs for the wheel well liner, and the pliers slipped when removing the bottom plug, causing me to drag my knuckles on the pavement. I hate those scrapes.
 
The nut is probably accessible from underneath. I don't remember though. Been a long time since the LSD install.

motherfucker.jpg
 
under it...not under the cap, look under where that piece connects with the spindle.
 
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