FINALLY... new sub.

Don't add a cap, no real advantage other than something to say you spent money on.

I run over 1200 watts on the stock electrical, and unless you are pounding on it really hard you will be fine. However I think the gen2's alt is higher rated amperage than the gen1, but the extra electrical demands coincide.
 
pektel said:
I just don't know if I want to upgrade the alt in a vehicle with 157000 on it.
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shop around and find one to buy when you need it, but dont pull the trigger until the first signs of the alt failing.

pektel said:
but can't help but think it's only going to put extra strain on the electrical system.
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the yellow top is much better than a cap, so your set

Andrizzle said:
unless you are pounding on it really hard you will be fine.
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agreed, normal every day listing at moderate levels shouldn't really be a problem, i mean you have been running that amp for a while now (i know you havent been running it at full power either, but i also bet you dont normally have it cranked to the max with the directed sub you've been running either)

Andrizzle said:
However I think the gen2's alt is higher rated amperage than the gen1,
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i know i have much more stable voltage now in my 2nd gen, with the same system my voltage was dropping a lot more with the 1st gen

i would also say, if you haven't done the big three yet, your definitely due now. would would definitely grab a couple of feet of 0 gauge to go from one of the alt bolts to the body, and from the battery to the body, but those will be super short. for the battery to the alt, i would at least look at adding to the factory with at least a good quality 4 gauge or 2 gauge run (the 0 for the grounds is over kill for your power but its very short pieces so its just a few buck difference) this is mandatory if you up grade your alt.
 
Thanks for all the helpful info, guys. Much appreciated from a relatively noobish car audio guy.

I used to have faith in my local shop. Until one day I was in there, mentioned the bug 3 upgrade, and they had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. Then tried to sell me a kinetic batcap instead.
 
pektel said:
Until one day I was in there, mentioned the bug 3 upgrade, and they had absolutely no idea what I was talking about.
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yea, i hear ya. I dont mess around with places that have bugs either, sh!t creeps me out :D
 
Lol. Had a few beers by that point last night.
 
Got the aero port in today:

6a12890f.jpg


Now, I'm tempted to get the 3/4 birch from Home Depot. 44.95 a sheet. My custom place has awesome 3/4 11 ply birch for 51.99. But then I'd have to pay shipping, or wait for another order. I'm rather impatient lol.

So I'm really thinking of mounting the sub so it faces the rear seat, and porting up through one of the 6x9 holes. Sleeper style. maybe do something raised on the trunk side like a lincoln logo or something, then stretch the carpet over that...
 
Well there is a brand called Kinetic, otherwise I think a lot of people use shuriken.
 
pektel said:
So I'm really thinking of mounting the sub so it faces the rear seat, and porting up through one of the 6x9 holes.
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its tricky to get it to sound right with the subs facing the front, most of the time you will get cancellation that will make it quieter, usually if you going to face them forward, you need to have the trunk sealed off separate, or they need to be at the back of the trunk facing forward.
 
Yeah, that's not gonna work then. Just an idea from a guy on SMD.
 
I wanted to do a build with plexi in place of the middle seat cubby... But that requires straight up destroying the back of your seat... So that is a big project... lol
 
pektel said:
So I'm really thinking of mounting the sub so it faces the rear seat, and porting up through one of the 6x9 holes. Sleeper style.
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Nope.. Face em towards the back of the trunk.. Facing subs forward cancels the back pressure. TRUST me. :cool:
 
What if you face the subs forward but create the port facing the seats??
 
BlackLS06 said:
What if you face the subs forward but create the port facing the seats??
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subs AND ports should face towards the back.. the ONLY More efficient way to deliver bass is to build a box custom and have the ports in the rear deck. Imagine it like this... sub bass (pressure) reflects harder off metal than it does foam right? see what i mean? face it towards the back so it can hit off the trunk wall instead of facing em forward and having the foam of ur back seats absorbing most of the sound. thats how it was taught to me. :cool:
 
Well im sealed right now but ill be going to ported soon.
 
Too bad the ls isnt a hatchback...those sound amazing with systems.
 
Ok im lost so its better to have a ported box? i have two 12" subs in a small box i'll post a pic in a little bit let me know what you guys think?
 
manoli said:
Ok im lost so its better to have a ported box? i have two 12" subs in a small box i'll post a pic in a little bit let me know what you guys think?
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small sealed = the best sound quality and most accurate and even levels across a huge range of freq's

ported or vented = much louder but only in a smaller range of freq's, little less SQ because of the range of freq's that have been boosted (the freq that the port is tuned to)

bandpass = very low quality of sound, usually the loudest of any types of box, but very very small range of freq's
 
Yeah typically youll want a sealed box if you prefer more sq and if you prefer to have more spl you want ported.

But ive heard some ported setups that sound amazingly clear and some sealed setups that sounded horrible.
 
BlackLS06 said:
What if you face the subs forward but create the port facing the seats??
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you just dont ever want the ports and the subs on opposite sides of the box(some home speakers do this but the distance from the speaker to the wall behind it is super critical), its usually pretty good if they are on adjacent sides, but most of the time its most efficient to have them on the same side

StackZzz LS said:
Imagine it like this... sub bass (pressure) reflects harder off metal than it does foam right? see what i mean? face it towards the back so it can hit off the trunk wall instead of facing em forward and having the foam of ur back seats absorbing most of the sound. thats how it was taught to me. :cool:
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thats kinda on the right track, but its really all about the sound waves and timing, if the direct sound waves and the reflecting sound waves get close to 180 degrees, they will cancel each other out (@ 180 degrees, it will almost completely cancel itself out, except for the reflecting wave will have a lower strength due to the object that it reflected off of absorbing some of it) the closer both of the sound waves are to 0 degrees, the more it boost itself or the less it fights itself. and this is true for all types of boxes, sealed and ported alike.
 
BlackLS06 said:
But ive heard some ported setups that sound amazingly clear and some sealed setups that sounded horrible.
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ive actually seen this a ton of times, a lot of the time, its because either the box it the wrong size or orientation, or the driver was not designed for that type of box. most subs perform pretty well in both types, but there are some that do not.

i personally like ported boxes because they are much more efficient (louder @ the same power) and as long as they are built to spec, and you have quality amps and drivers, the SQ shouldn't be "bad" in anyway, i usually only build sealed boxes when size is a concern (like when having to fit two 15" L7s into a trunk and still have room left over :cool:) or when the customer has certain music taste like jazz or classical as the bass is usually nowhere near low enough to be in the "sweet spot" of a ported box, and they really need the even range of all freq especially on the higher end of the scale(60Hz-90Hz)
 
Andrizzle said:
I wanted to do a build with plexi in place of the middle seat cubby... But that requires straight up destroying the back of your seat... So that is a big project... lol
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yea, ive been trying to convince some of my friends to go with something like that, a box with a big plexi back that you can see everything inside the box with the seats down and acrylic mirrors inside the box, but trimming the edges of where you cut out behind the rear arm rest would be a pain and i havent found a good upholstery guy yet.
 
Anyone know of a good freeware enclosure program? I want to design this box and get er built.
 
manoli said:
Ok im lost so its better to have a ported box? i have two 12" subs in a small box i'll post a pic in a little bit let me know what you guys think?
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IMHO.. ported boxes are the best.

1LoudLS said:
small sealed = the best sound quality and most accurate and even levels across a huge range of freq's

Not necessarily.. Depends on sub and box specs.

ported or vented = much louder but only in a smaller range of freq's, little less SQ because of the range of freq's that have been boosted (the freq that the port is tuned to)

Not true.. If tuned correctly the subs will hit the same freq as the sealed box.. again it comes down to subs and box specs..

bandpass = very low quality of sound, usually the loudest of any types of box, but very very small range of freq's
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I agree.:cool:
 
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