FINALLY... new sub.
- Thread starter pektel
- Start date
So, let me know what you audio guys think of this. I used torres box calculator, and precision port's port length calculator to figure this stuff out.
Box dimensions: 26"w x 14"h x 16"d. Gives me about 2.57 net cubes before displacements of sub and port. After displacements, would be around 2.3 cubes, and tuned to somewhere between 33-34hz.
Sound like a good plan? Anything you would change? Go a little bit wider than 26 maybe?
Box dimensions: 26"w x 14"h x 16"d. Gives me about 2.57 net cubes before displacements of sub and port. After displacements, would be around 2.3 cubes, and tuned to somewhere between 33-34hz.
Sound like a good plan? Anything you would change? Go a little bit wider than 26 maybe?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
sounds pretty darn good, the only thing i might change is to go a tad wider to be able to make it a little less deep just to maximize trunk space, i though you could go closer to 30" and still fit between the strut mounts.
Yeah I'm quickly approaching the clearance limit for the back of the port and the back of the box. Right now it's at like 4.25" or something. And my logic tells me I should keep at least the port diameter as a clearance for air to exit the box.
Trust me, I wish I could salvage more trunk space. But I also have a truck and the gf's blazer.
Also going to order a bulk pack of Damplifier (maybe Pro), and a couple sheets of Overkill.
Trust me, I wish I could salvage more trunk space. But I also have a truck and the gf's blazer.
Also going to order a bulk pack of Damplifier (maybe Pro), and a couple sheets of Overkill.
They are 12 gauge wires that go directly to the coils of the sub.
The sub comes built with them:
http://www.audioque.com/Street-Duty-SDC25-10-D4-Subwoofer_p_10.html
and the big brother:
http://www.audioque.com/HDC310-Copper-Coil-Subwoofer_p_13.html
The sub comes built with them:
http://www.audioque.com/Street-Duty-SDC25-10-D4-Subwoofer_p_10.html
and the big brother:
http://www.audioque.com/HDC310-Copper-Coil-Subwoofer_p_13.html
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
yea, your gonna want to kick the up to at least 12 Awg, i used 10Awg just because a 10 awg amp power kit was the same price as the 12 awg speaker wire and i didnt need 30 feet of it.lol
damn black, you better be careful putting that beast too close to your computer, if you run HDD's, strong enough magnets will wipe that sh!t clean!
also good to see your a COD fanGonna go to the local shop after work to pick that up. Was going to order the damplifier, but that will have to wait. Gotta get the trunk resprayed first to fix the rust. That's gonna run 325. Or, maybe just get regular damplifier instead (I really wanted the Pro).
damn black, you better be careful putting that beast too close to your computer, if you run HDD's, strong enough magnets will wipe that sh!t clean!
which one?
my gaming tower is at the bottom with dual 640gb hd's and laptop is to the right. also have a server and a backup machine in the closet.
But yeah sub is back in the vehicle now. Must work extra hours to do some more upgrades.
Damn, you guys notice everything! That's why I usually point it out first or am very aware of what's in my pics!
Pektel, looking forward to what the finished install looks like. I would eventually like a tad extra bass in the LS.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
all of them
man i really need to hurry and find a new house to buy, i need one where i can have a big garage and be close enough to town to get broadband, i just built a killer computer than can only use for playing campaigns or 3D modeling software, its kinda sad to just see it sit there, not conected to the real world, i cant even get a good enough phone signal to tether to
jolinc01
Dedicated LVC Member
How much is the damplifier? Maybe something like the CLD tiles that sound deadener showdown sells would be a better alternative until you get the trunk resprayed. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
By the square foot, those CLD tiles end up being more expensive, when buying damplifier in the bulk pack.
So, just got some good news. I'm going to return the sheet of plywood I bought this morning, because my custom cabinet line will sell me better plywood for cheaper, and they will use their CNC machine to precut all the pieces for me
Tru-Blu
Dedicated LVC Member
Nice score on the plywood deal, Pete. You can't beat a CNC job for accuracy.
Let me know what you end up doing in your trunk. I have a little bit of rattle/buzz on the outside, and I'm thinking that I need to put something on the trunk lid - maybe even on the trunk floor itself.
This is where I defer to the experts.
Let me know what you end up doing in your trunk. I have a little bit of rattle/buzz on the outside, and I'm thinking that I need to put something on the trunk lid - maybe even on the trunk floor itself.
This is where I defer to the experts.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
no kidding, that should go together pretty nicely!
see if you can isolate where the sound is coming from, (1) i had to remove my tire iron from the trunk as it was making an awful noise, (2) the license plate was pretty bad because it only screws in at the top, adding something behind the bottom of the plate to receive screws fixed that. now the only rattles i still have left is some of the heat shield above the mufflers, and something behind the bumper and i really dont want to remove the bumper to hunt it down, its probably somewhere where two pieces of plastic are touching each other.
Hmmm, I just thought of something. It could be rather cheap and easy for my custom shop to do this for more than just me... They could ship direct too... Of course, I will perform the cutouts for port/speaker.
So 1LoudLS, do you think 14" deep is too shallow for a 40# sub? Do I need to worry about it rolling over or something? That's really my only worry now.
So 1LoudLS, do you think 14" deep is too shallow for a 40# sub? Do I need to worry about it rolling over or something? That's really my only worry now.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
i would definitely use something to anchor it down at the top, for the depth i would make sure that if the sub ports out the back of the magnet, that you have ATLEAST the diameter of the port from the back of the box, twice the size would be nice.
Yeah, I changed it again yesterday afternoon. I measured the box I have right now, and it's 18" deep. So, the final dimensions will be 28w x 14h x 15d tuned to 34hz. Gross volume is 2.58 cubes. 2.31 net after port and sub displacement.
lol. I believe it's being cut as we speak. They are not coming up to my area until next week, so I won't get it until then. and I can go smaller in any dimension, but unfortunately I haven't bought a board stretcher yet if I want to go larger.
