FINALLY... new sub.

when figuring out lengths based off of volume, it needs to be net volume, after port volume and sub displacement is taking out. because the formula for figuring it out has to be the actual volume inside of the box (since all subs would have a different displacement)
 
Thanks. Kinda what I figured, but the calculator was rather vague by only stating "volume".

So, I used net after sub displacement, but before port displacement because I didn't know the length of the port yet to figure a volume.

And I came up with 10.23" of flared port. Hopefully that's okay on a 15" deep box.
 
that's more than enough clearance, you'll be good with that especially with the flair at the end
 
Awesome. Thanks for all the help guys. I wanted to make sure I only had to do it once.
 
Pics when it's built

wait a minute, did I actually ask Pete for pics thinking that he might not post them?

:slam
 
Tru-Blu said:
wait a minute, did I actually ask Pete for pics thinking that he might not post them?
Click to expand...

well this thread is up to 6 pages and Pete only has about 7pics so far...
he is far below his average!
 
Materials show up Thursday. I suppose I could take pics of the glue, screws, and drill to hold you over Til then :D

Actually, it is a pretty nice impact drill...
 
i love my impact driver, dont think ive picked up my regular grill more than three times since i bought it, be careful, mine will break screw heads off like they are plastic if im too aggressive on the trigger.
 
Materials just showed up. I love not having to cut these pieces except for the speaker and port holes :D

IMG_0834.jpg


IMG_0833.jpg
 
REally stupid question. What's the order of assembly? Do I assemble in steps? Like glue/clamp one side and the back to the bottom, then wait to set up, then the other side and the front? Or can I assemble the sides, front and back, and bottom, and clamp them all at the same time?

And I'm also wondering if clamping is even necessary if I'm driving screws every 4-6 inches anyways... Seems like it would be okay to just put the line of glue, and screw it together. But I've never built a sub box before, so my thinking could be way off...
 
Just start assembling... I start with bottom piece, then add sides and work up.

Also cut the sub hole and port on the side piece before attaching. This will prevent additional clean up in the form of fishing debris out of the box.

(optional) Run a thin bead of silicon along all the seams before attaching the top piece, then use the sub hole to reach in and run a bead along the top seam to finish it up.


No clamps needed, just keep working. Use alot of glue, be generous on every joint and make sure all joint-ground is covered. If you have a right angle clamp they can be very helpful, but not necessary.
 
Thanks, bud. I tell you what, I really like that I don't have to maneuver a 4x8 sheet of plywood around the table saw for an hour before starting assembly.
 
i like to place the back on last, this way you can put some silicone on all of the front seams easily then you can seal up the back seams through the sub hole


agreed, screws means no clamps needed (the glue is what really holds it together, the screws just hold it until the glue cures)
 
Thanks! That's what I planned on.

Andy, I'll probably just cut the hole once it's all assembled. Just because I have a nice Metro Vac n Blow that will take care of interior cleanup :D
 
Started assembling last night. A note to those going to do a project like this... it's probably best not to drink before and during lol. I went a little heavy on the glue, and went through a good half roll of paper towels cleaning up the overflow :lol:
 
Lol. :)

Crappy cell phone camera pic. It's actuall not a crappy camera. The lens cover is all scratched up. New back glass on the way right now.

3d2324f2.jpg
 
Can I just use any wood filler for the screw holes? Or is there something that is preferred?
 
dont think it really matters, i always just mix up some of the sawdust leftover from the cutting with wood glue to use, so i would imagine that any wood filler should be fine
 
I do the same. But if I am carpeting and I counter sunk, then i don't have anything to fill in, I only sink the screwhead depth and it doesn't show through carpet.
 
I went a little crazy with the countersinking I guess... I'll pick up whatever wood filler tonight after work.

I am going to hook everything up before I carpet though. I'm thinking about running 2 bolts through the box, use lock washers, and use ring terminals instead of a spring terminal box. I had one melt on me before, and don't like them.

Probably get some foam tape to seal up between the sub/box and port/box until I carpet it.
 
Yea that is an effective method for wiring. Since you used birch, stain her and finish the rough edges off. Lol
 
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