joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't have the list for the gen I, but I think that Quick does.
It has to do with how far you drive, what the temperature is, and what the level of the gas in the tank needs to be.
Fml...
- Thread starter toast9897
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I don't have the list for the gen I, but I think that Quick does.
It has to do with how far you drive, what the temperature is, and what the level of the gas in the tank needs to be.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
That's for high altitude. Basically you need to drive it in the city, on the highway and do some coasting(no brakes say from 65-45mph). Day one you should do these driving, probably 20 minutes at least. Don't be afraid of 1/2-3/4 throttle accelerations from a stop a few times. Then let it set overnight. Do the same on day three. Let it set overnight. Then on day 3 the computer should be enough monitor running to either throw a new code or pass emissions.
Make sure you reset the computer before doing this. Also, you can drive it as long as you want in a given day so long as it sits for at least 8 hours before being driven next.
If it still says that you have a lean condition and you think it might be because the PCV elbow then cap it off. Put some tape over the fitting(MAKE SURE IT CAN'T GET SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE) and try it that way. If your lean condition goes away then you know you have a bad elbow.
Ordered the PCV valve and applicable gaskets including valve cover gaskets. Figured might as well. Deleted the tb heater thing.
Heard the sound of a vacuum leak today that I hadn't noticed before; it might have already been there and I missed it. It's coming from back here
When I jiggle the vacuum hose that leads to the tb back there, I hear the noise change a bit. (tb, running lean... connection? probably.)
Can't see back there; what can I expect?
Heard the sound of a vacuum leak today that I hadn't noticed before; it might have already been there and I missed it. It's coming from back here
When I jiggle the vacuum hose that leads to the tb back there, I hear the noise change a bit. (tb, running lean... connection? probably.)
Can't see back there; what can I expect?
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
You only ordered the PCV valve and not the elbo? Make sure you get the elbo and I recommend getting the rubber connector that you see in that picture as mine was cracking pretty bad.
While you are in there take a good look at the lower intake where the injectors are. Make sure it isn't crack and that the intake gaskets are good. If you need help while you're down there post here or PM me. It can get tricky.
While you are in there take a good look at the lower intake where the injectors are. Make sure it isn't crack and that the intake gaskets are good. If you need help while you're down there post here or PM me. It can get tricky.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
This will help you get most of the way there.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/IntakeManifoldV6/
More can be had from the tech articles found next to search.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/IntakeManifoldV6/
More can be had from the tech articles found next to search.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
This is what my elbow looked like:
It wasn't leaking yet, but it was cracking so I replaced it anyway.
It wasn't leaking yet, but it was cracking so I replaced it anyway.
craigh
Dedicated LVC Member
I had that same little coolant hose break in my LS a few weeks ago. The assembly is over $300.00 from the dealership and that is the only place you can get one.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
That's why I plugged it.
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
Max set me up a couple of years ago for around 2 bills for that complete assembly. I'm still waiting to install it! My car had a small seeping leak at the plastic to rubber transition on the upper radiator hose, just at the end of the area shown above.
Working on the PCV elbow tonight.
Good news: discovered that the PCV elbow did in fact have a hole in it, most likely causing the lean banks 1 & 2. Also, got started on the valve cover gaskets tonight. Enter bad news... while cleaning up for the night, being only halfway done (d-side valve cover gaskets changed, plugs replaced, etc.), we replaced the valve cover and started pulling tools, bolts, sockets, and other odds and ends out of the engine bay, and my buddy decided it would be fine to set the hood down on top of a few rubber hoses hanging over the fender. Problem is, one wasn't rubber, but hard plastic, and when he set the hood on it, it broke. It was the PCV hose (from the intake manifold to the PCV valve). I'm assuming this is a dealer part...
Also, one of the (blue) O-rings on where the fuel rail connects to the injectors got lost (or was already missing). Autozone...
...Also, still need to find out which bulb is in the CEL and how to get to it.
Good news: discovered that the PCV elbow did in fact have a hole in it, most likely causing the lean banks 1 & 2. Also, got started on the valve cover gaskets tonight. Enter bad news... while cleaning up for the night, being only halfway done (d-side valve cover gaskets changed, plugs replaced, etc.), we replaced the valve cover and started pulling tools, bolts, sockets, and other odds and ends out of the engine bay, and my buddy decided it would be fine to set the hood down on top of a few rubber hoses hanging over the fender. Problem is, one wasn't rubber, but hard plastic, and when he set the hood on it, it broke. It was the PCV hose (from the intake manifold to the PCV valve). I'm assuming this is a dealer part...
Also, one of the (blue) O-rings on where the fuel rail connects to the injectors got lost (or was already missing). Autozone...
...Also, still need to find out which bulb is in the CEL and how to get to it.
Got her all put back together and got her fired up. She runs...
Two new problems.
1. Fuel leak from the cap at the end of the fuel rail (? I thought fuel rails were metal...).
2. Oil leak from d-side valve cover back towards the firewall. I didn't use any gasket maker (there wasn't any when I pulled the old one off). Should I have?
Thanks.
Two new problems.
1. Fuel leak from the cap at the end of the fuel rail (? I thought fuel rails were metal...).
2. Oil leak from d-side valve cover back towards the firewall. I didn't use any gasket maker (there wasn't any when I pulled the old one off). Should I have?
Thanks.
Also, temp gauge reads at exactly half give or take a needle's width once warmed up. However, the heater won't get hot. I'm afraid to even use the word warm. Could this be related to me plugging the hose that broke on me last week?
I'm pretty stumped on all these problems, guys. Any help appreciated.
I'm pretty stumped on all these problems, guys. Any help appreciated.
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
It could be related to the broken hose, because it is part of an active air removal system. You need to purge the air out of the system more. Did you bleed coolant at the hose with the slotted screw plug by the brake booster? Did you let all of the air out of the black plastic bleeder where the hose barb broke off? That should cure your water temp issues, if you can manage to get the remaining air out. Unfortunately, that throttle body warming loop is also used for burping the system at all times to the degas bottle. With it no longer working, a perfect air purge at refill time is needed.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
Can you give us pictures?
I'm not sure from memory how the fuel rail could be leaking unless it's broke.
On the oil leak this cars have plugs on the back of the cylinder heads to block off were the water pump would mount on FWD cars and that could be causing your issue, or (if possible) you installed the gasket upside down because the gasket is larger were this piece is.
Mine reads about a needles length under the halfway point. milehighmikey is right, it's going to be harder to plead the system with that line off but I haven't had a problem with it. I turned my heater on high and bleed from the bleeder between the brake booster and degas tank. With engine running I took the bleeder cap off until coolant flowed regularly. I then let the engine warm up more and did it again just in case more air would come out. Remember it will be hot now.
Does the bleeder screw where I have the broken hose piece come all the way out? I was twisting it, it was spinning, but wouldn't move up or down. Also, the heater never got hot.
I'll try and take a look at the oil leak tomorrow to get more specific info.
As for the fuel I'm thinking it fixed itself. Perhaps an o-ring hadn't set properly or something. At any rate the leak appears to be gone.
I'll try and take a look at the oil leak tomorrow to get more specific info.
As for the fuel I'm thinking it fixed itself. Perhaps an o-ring hadn't set properly or something. At any rate the leak appears to be gone.
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
I had the same problem, that's why I told you how I did the one by that brake booster.
Keep an eye on the fuel leak. Did you take the fuel rail off the injectors? If you did you should have replaced the o-rings.
I did replace half of the O-rings. Autozone only had one set, and they come in packs of 4. The dealership wanted $31.xx for a pack of 10. Eff that. I'm going to try switching the one that I think is leaking with the last new O-ring. (lol I feel like I should explain why I only did 3, when I had 4 new O-rings. The ones on the car were blue. The ones I bought were grey. I have this weird thing about symmetry and patterns, so I alternated blue and grey to keep a pattern lol. Of course, if it will stop the leak, I'll give up the pattern. Nobody will ever know anyways...)
The oil is only leaking from a very small portion of the valve cover, specifically from where the bolt that is nearest to the firewall and on the right side of the right bank. I'm thinking that that one tiny part of the gasket didn't get pressed in all the way...
Fuel Leak:
Oil leak (you can't actually see the leak, but if you reach down you can feel it):
The oil is only leaking from a very small portion of the valve cover, specifically from where the bolt that is nearest to the firewall and on the right side of the right bank. I'm thinking that that one tiny part of the gasket didn't get pressed in all the way...
Fuel Leak:
Oil leak (you can't actually see the leak, but if you reach down you can feel it):
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
When I replaced my injector seals I would lick them to help them slide on easily.
On the oil leak, is it to the right or left of center? Or is it centered?
On the oil leak, is it to the right or left of center? Or is it centered?
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
Ditto. It has the metal center pieces that limit how much you can tighten the valve cover. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and hand tightened it.
Back together, again, and running. No leaks that I can see, no codes, and only evap not set. Hopefully I can pass smog tomorrow if I can find a smog place that'll let me slide with no functioning cel bulb...
Mechanicboy
Dedicated LVC Member
Good luck!