Gen 1 Headlight Project w/ HID install

to make all 4 light up you need to take the clam shell off from around your steering column, take the multifunction switch off and splice pinds 13 and 15 together, this allows the high beams to come on when you hit the sswitch, but also keeps the low beams on too, see martins pictures in the begining of the post it shows all this being done.

my hid kit is installed, re-aimed and i love it, they are very bright and i can see just fine now.
 
Dark_Majesty_06 said:
Oh okay.. so i'm assuming we can't replace these bulbs.. when they go out.. we repay the 88 dollars and just use the lights out of there and resell the other stuff.. or can you replace the bulbs.. I really.. honestly need a set.. my dims are horrible.. and I don't think i'm brave enough to cut open my stock headlights on my DD... so do you think atleast my dims will atleast be equal to the stock dims? If this does require me to do the restoration.. my chrome looks fine.. but my lens are just so yellow.. I'm gunna try an easy 20 dollar kit this weekend.. that removes all the film and go from there.. either way.. this looks like the best anyways... I want blue HIDs... and i'm getting them.. lol. I wanna look fancy too!
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The HID bulbs are available separately from various outlets, not sure how expensive they are though. (might work out cheaper to just buy another kit, however, they should last a while and some vendors offer warranties)

Your dims will be better with the HID kit versus halogen, but nowhere near as good as they could be unless you address the chrome and lens issues.

When i got my car, the lenses were very yellow - wet sanding with various grits and then final polishing made them look like new - when you have cleaned them, keep them waxed so they look good for longer.

If you want a blue tint to the lights, then go 6000K or maybe 8000K, higher than that tend to look purplish. Remember that the more blue the light, the less output (lumens) on the road and also the more strain on the eyes.

The Rev: Yeah, you can do the switch mod i detailed on the first page easily enough to keep the lows and highs on. (just means you will have to push the stalk forward when the lights are on) There is probably another way to splice them, so that they operate all the time without using the stalk, but i don't have a circuit diagram, so don't know which wires to splice for that. I hope the police are ok where you live, cos if you dazzle them with the lows and highs you may get in trouble!
 
93' Blue on blue said:
The Rev: Yeah, you can do the switch mod i detailed on the first page easily enough to keep the lows and highs on. (just means you will have to push the stalk forward when the lights are on) There is probably another way to splice them, so that they operate all the time without using the stalk, but i don't have a circuit diagram, so don't know which wires to splice for that. I hope the police are ok where you live, cos if you dazzle them with the lows and highs you may get in trouble!
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I read that but I guess I was misunderstanding it. After I do that, having my MFS pushed foward (as it is now) would allow me to have both lows and highs on at all times? Because if so that'd be so sick, having lows and highs in hids at the same time. Would there be any harm by doing that? If not I'm so doing it. Cops don't make a big deal about hids, they're more concerned with tinted windows loud exhausts and systems, and so far I've only got the exhaust so I'll be fine.
 
93' Blue on blue said:
The HID bulbs are available separately from various outlets, not sure how expensive they are though. (might work out cheaper to just buy another kit, however, they should last a while and some vendors offer warranties)

Your dims will be better with the HID kit versus halogen, but nowhere near as good as they could be unless you address the chrome and lens issues.

When i got my car, the lenses were very yellow - wet sanding with various grits and then final polishing made them look like new - when you have cleaned them, keep them waxed so they look good for longer.

If you want a blue tint to the lights, then go 6000K or maybe 8000K, higher than that tend to look purplish. Remember that the more blue the light, the less output (lumens) on the road and also the more strain on the eyes.

QUOTE]

Oh okay.. so maybe just going with 8000k looks bright enough.. but i don't want to sacrifice vision.. so maybe i'll stick with 6k... Okay.. I sure will... because from the look of the inside.. thier chrome is fine.. but then agian.. its so yellow... i can't tell.. mine are also getting moister in them... so i guess the seal is already broken... I guess my best bet would be to tear them open... so if nothing else... just to reseal them really well.. how is the goop holding up? Is there anything stronger with a stronger hold I can get... someone told me High temp RTV silicone.
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That Goop is pretty strong - its a strong silicon type sealant. Never used that RTV so couldn't really comment on it. If you are getting condensation inside your lights then it could be a bad bulb O ring seal, or possibly the lens glue, or a crack etc. (if it is the lens glue, no need to take 'em apart - just cover the lens seam with a bead of Goop and let it set, dry out the lights and all should be well) Been a couple of weeks now since i did mine and they are still fine - no condensation at all.
 
I used rtv silicone on mine, overall I was satisfied, but I'd rather go with goop next time I hack em open, only reason is that its thinner when wet, easier to apply, I found it a little hard to apply, but both should be fine.
 
The Rev said:
I read that but I guess I was misunderstanding it. After I do that, having my MFS pushed foward (as it is now) would allow me to have both lows and highs on at all times? Because if so that'd be so sick, having lows and highs in hids at the same time. Would there be any harm by doing that?
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Yup, when you do the mod, your lows and highs will operate together for flashing (not recommended with HIDs) and constant with the MFS pushed forward. Assuming you have good chrome inside your housings, a full set of HIDs would be very bright - even more so if you were remove the metal anti - glare shields in the low beam housings. If you are dead set on doing this, then aim 'em down and right a fair amount, cos bad glare can cause accidents.

Im not sure if the stock wiring would be up to the task of running a full set of HIDs all the time - keep an eye on that issue - you may need thicker harness wiring and possibly relays.

I think what you suggest may be abit 'over the top' A set of nicely chromed housings with clear lenses and a set of cheap HIDs in just the lows would be a BIG improvement over the stock halogens. If aimed right, this set up will be good, without dazzling people and possibly attracting cops.
 
If the wiring can't handle it I dont assume I'd do it then. I may have to hack these housings open and rechrome these as well. Did you rechrome the deflector? Reason why I ask is that on my old housings they had no chrome so I don't even know if they had chrome when they were new. I'd want to chrome the inside of the deflector, if I decided to keep em. If I were to take em out, there would be no reason to switch the hids from my high socket to low socket, would there be? Does it light up any differently in the low socket w/ the deflectors removed? Maybe a little wider light on the ground?
 
The anti - glare shields stop the eyes from seeing very bright parts of the bulb and alters the beam pattern - removing them would give you abit more light, but it would be unfocused, wide and could possibly dazzle.

The shields are black and not chromed. I chromed the outsides of mine to make them look nicer, but left the insides alone, as rechroming the insides would defeat their purpose.

Why don't you rechrome your housings, fit the HIDs in the lows, do the MFS mod, put the lenses on loosely and try them with and without the shields? That way, you will see if the beam is any better and if there is any glare to be worried about. Make your choice, then reseal the lenses.
 
do no tremove the refractors from inside the lenses your light will be totally unfocused and you will not get a beam in front of the car where you need it, it will only light up the road close to the nose of the car anf light up everything on each side of the road but you will not get light out in front of the car where you need it. i just finished mine today, i took the refractors out and painted them silver inside and out with a rattle can, rechromed the hosuings, put them back in and installed. tonight i re-aimed them and i am not joking when i say these things are 10 times better them my stock 98 lsc housings. they dont even compare, and they make my hid lenses and factory hid's in my other 93 look like flash lights. i went with a 6000k kit, and the bulbs are avail through the same guy who sold the kit, the bulbs are sold in packs of two, for 22.95 buy it now. thats nothing. martin, the next time you come to the shop you'll have to make it after sunset so i can take you for a ride in the dark you are gonna crap yourself, these things are insane i am so blown away. for about 95 bucks total for the kit and trim brite and about 6 hours labor i am so happy how they turned out, after all the resto's i have done this one tops it all, i have never seen light output of this kind in any gen 1 mark VIII. just look at how they light up my garage.
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Look good Jamie! Will come down in a few days and check 'em out. I could take a pic of yours and mine parked side by side in the dark and post it here for a direct 4300K and 6000K comparison.

Nice to know spare bulbs are available cheaply too!
 
Yeah that looks really good, almost as good as when I redo mine next week haha. Nah but Jamie do you have the headlight tabs for a housing in all of those boxes on your ebay store? I need the 2 longer of the retaining tabs as the housing I got for cheap didn't have any. I also need 4 clips as well. Can you list them on the store for me to buy or maybe PM me with a total and I could get that paypal'd out to you.
-Billy
 
The Rev said:
Yeah that looks really good, almost as good as when I redo mine next week haha. Nah but Jamie do you have the headlight tabs for a housing in all of those boxes on your ebay store? I need the 2 longer of the retaining tabs as the housing I got for cheap didn't have any. I also need 4 clips as well. Can you list them on the store for me to buy or maybe PM me with a total and I could get that paypal'd out to you.
-Billy
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billy i got your pm i will write back tomorrow its late and im beat lol! i should have what you need. i will sell it outright screw ebay!
 
Figured id throw the damaged chrome pics in this thread too, show you folks how the original chrome looks after a few years use, and why rechroming is necessary to restore decent light - not just a lense buff! Notice the brown? Thats the actual housing plastic starting to burn!

View attachment 33608 View attachment 33609
 
Yes it is, the housing I have I just bought from hellvez (which is in GREAT condition) still has this so guys it is imperative to do the rechrome. As far as the brown spot, its bubbling on one of mine so I dremeled it smooth.
 
Here's a quandry-how would you remove the ignition barrell WITHOUT the ignition key? That's the only reason I have to change the barrell.

Professional looking post btw. Am about to do full set of HIDs as well once this gets started again.
 
Thanks, and welcome!

I have no idea on how to safely remove the barrel without the key - may have to be drilled out. I would consult with a mobile lock smith. (a dealer could do it, but would probably be more expensive, plus you would have to get the car there)
 
Thanks and yep, time to pay the piper...I have 2 porto blue 94s btw,
 
Head light project

93' Blue on blue
I saw the outline of your headlight refurb project, and it is fantastic. I am following your lead and attempting to refurb my '94 mark VIII headlights, but not as far as the HIDs.
I saw in the post that you used Trimbrite chrome tape. I purchased some trimbrite chrome tape, but I am concerned that there may be too much heat for the tape and burn it up. Do you know how much heat the tape would have to endure?

Mack
 
Hi Mack! That tape is pretty durable - should be ok with the extra heat of halogens although i can't speak from experience as i switched to HIDs in the low beam as soon as i did the refurb.

I say do them and when funds permit, get that cheap 89 dollar HID kit - takes 10 mins to fit and makes a HUGE difference to the light output.

Jamie97lsc is the expert when it comes to chrome tape head light refurbs - he can probably tell you more about the tape's durability with halogen bulbs.



Edit: Wow. Jamie answered with Jedi speed! Looks like you are 'good to go' Mack!
 
mack i have done a dozen sets of these headlights both with the use of halogen standard bulbs and hid's and i have yet to see the tape affected by heat. unless the bulb actually touched the tape it will not burn, it is real metal so if cant stand up to some decent heat.
 
OK. good enough. I will try it. I was just cleaning the rust and dirt out of the lens and casing. there are some stuborn rust stains to remove. next I will start the template and chroming.

When i bought this car people were laughing at its condition. Now as they see the car coming to life on a shoestring budget I 'm hearing silence.

I appreciate the help from you guys. I look to help others on this forum and those out on Long Island, NY.

Mack
 
Thats cool Mack! It will take you a while but it will be worth it!

You know, my car looked like a turd when i got it - now its starting to look decent - passers by make comments so i must be doing something right! Lol.

Good luck! Any Qs just ask away.
 
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