GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul

I can't tell what hoses you are showing in those pictures. Autozone will not have all of the parts that you need, and don't get any brand of degas bottle other than Motorcraft.

Here are two discount Ford parts places.
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/
http://www.tascaparts.com/
They will have the "hose that runs underneath intake manifold" and all the rest of it.
 
mujahid1994 said:
View attachment 828472840 this hose is also part of the cooling system I haven't seen many suggestions to replace this hose why is that
Click to expand...

actually it is, every body that knows what is going on and how to truly fix i, knows that you need to replace EVERY plastic cooling system part, that being one of them.

mujahid1994 said:
View attachment 828472841 should I replace this hose to
Click to expand...

ask you self this one, does it contain plastic? and does coolant run through it?

any parts that you don't replace, could break or leak at any time after your first sign of a problem. and there have been a lot of people who refuse to listen and only replace the one bad part, then next month they are replacing another part, then two weeks later they are wondering why they are starting to overheat again... #ViciousCircle

mujahid1994 said:
And is autozone a reliable source to get my car parts from because if I get them from ford it would cost way more
Click to expand...

not unless you can get the Motorcraft part from there (then its OK)
 
What Loud said about all the plastic parts,,, also goes for all of the rubber hoses too. Think about it. Thousands of heating and cooling cycles over 100,000 + miles... also causes rubber to deteriorate and break down. You can do this once... or do it a few times.

If I was broke down out of town and the only AP store available was AutoZone,,, then I would buy from them. Otherwise,,, I drive right past them. There is a reason their "house brand" parts have a lifetime warranty. By the time you replace it 3 or 4 times,,, AZ is probably just breaking even on their cost of the part,,, while you have had the aggrivation of replacing things more often than you should. OEM specifications doesn't always mean what most people think it means.

Listen to Loud, Joegr, and LS4. Buy Motorcraft or factory parts. Joegr provided some good links to factory parts at cheaper prices than most people can get from a dealer. LS4 made a goog recommendation with Rock Auto. They have better pricing on Motorcraft parts, (and most any quality part). I use Rock Auto any time I have a "planned" project coming up.

If you are trying to do this cheaply,,, because money is tight... we get it. But in the long run it will come back to bite you where it hurts. if you are trying to do this cheaply,,, just to be cheap... don't because it will come back to bite you where it hurts. Point is... spend the money now,,, do it once,,, do it right... and you will be happier for it.
 
26274bfb325e78146857ffe0699a055c.jpg
what's the part number for this
 
welp - here we go. overheated this afternoon. temp gauge spiked really quickly. pulled off, shut her down, and noticed what i think is a hairline crack in the "8548A" / "4Z-8548-AD" (Main Plastic Body), as indicated by the red circle.

9172ZNeMlnL._SL1500_.jpg


coolant had spewed a bit and was at that time barely bubbling out. tank was a little low so i filled that up and let it sit. after an hour or so, turned it back on and let it idle - seemed fine, no coolant coming out of crack. so i drove it a block down the road and back, still nothing. anyway, i'm sure i need to replace that item (along with everything else), question is can i simply use this item and cover 2 separate pieces?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5790486&cc=1426137&jnid=434&jpid=2

9172ZNeMlnL._SL1500_.jpg
 
Someone else on the forum is trying it right now, but it hasn't been long enough to say if it was wise or not. Dorman makes a really terrible degas bottle of the LS. It's possible that this part will be good, but it seems to me that the odds of that are low.
 
i know, i know...dorman. just seems convenient that this is already put together.
 
illyc said:
i know, i know...dorman. just seems convenient that this is already put together.
Click to expand...

The amount of time and effort required to put that together is nothing compared to the effort to install those and the rest of the plastic parts, especially the one that those connect to.
 
fair point joe. i drove the car a few miles yesterday to a safe location with the A/C off and it did fine. just have to decide if i want to bite the bullet and pay someone to do this for me, or accumulate the parts and do it myself. ugh.
 
joegr said:
Here's some of the full part numbers.

96JV-8255-CB
XW4Z-8255-CA
2W9Z-8575-AB
3W4Z-8548-AD
2W9Z-8590-AB
3W4Z-8592-AA
W500215-S309 (the bolts that hold down the 9N499 tube)
5W4Z-8A080-AA
2W9Z-9N499-AC
2W9Z-8620-GB
3W4Z-9F814-AA
W707299-S300
3W4Z-8A511-AB
2W9Z-9439-AA
2W9Z-8501-BB (water pump - comes with gasket)

Match these up to the partial part numbers at the start of the thread.
PS: Maybe SoulSoak could edit his first post to fill in the full numbers...
Click to expand...


sorry for the trouble, but how many of the gaskets/seals/bolts do we need?

local indy shop quoted me $780 to replace the thermostat, housing, cover, radiator cap, and 9N499 tube. another $700 to do the entire system.
 
I wish we had a moderator on this forum so this thread could be stickied, would probably (unlikely) cut down on the overheating threads created every 20 minutes and save Joe a copy/paste.
 
PM rolling and ask him to do it.

doesnt look like he gets on every day anymore, so he might not get back to you right away, but it will be your best bet to get it done.



BUT fair warning, without the title of this thread saying "what to do if your car is overheating" it wont get read, and 100% of new people are not going to think this pertains to them...


personally, I would create a thread called "what to do if your car is overheating" then I would link to this thread for 2nd gens, and then find the best thread about hydraulic fan system for all the 1st gen guys.

THEN as a must, every time some dickhole starts a new thread, the only response that is appropriate would be "stickies"
 
yes.. definitely a "sticky"!!!! +100. Anyone who reads this thread,,, and is thinking about using aftermarket parts... needs to go back up to post #79. Just because an aftermarket part "claims" it meets or exceeds OEM, (Original Equipment Manufacturer), specifications... doesn't mean it actually does.

To further explain:

After a vehicle is in production and on the road for a few years,,, problems arise with certain parts on the vehicle that are noted by the dealers service department... and passed on to corporate people higher up the manufacturers food chain. Many parts are re-designed slightly... to a different specification, dimension, material, or tolerance. The LS water pump proves this. You'd be surprised how many times I have called up my buddy at the Ford dealer,,, and he tells me a part has been superceded with a different part number. Why is that??? A slight design change in the part.

So... the aftermarket parts manufacturers may be having parts built to the "original" OEM standards,,, but they don't have the specs on the latest design change in the part. This means that whatever caused the original part to fail the first time,,, may cause the aftermarket part to fail in the same way.

I started working on cars and small engines with my dad at age 10. That was over 30 years ago. I remember when you could walk into a parts store... and buy a name brand aftermarket part made in the USA,,, and know that you were getting a good replacement part for a reasonable price, (because most aftermarket parts manufacturers were building the factory parts at the time). That started fading in the 90's,., and has all but disappeared today. Most parts are made overseas now,,, especially in china or third world countries. If I buy an aftermarket part anymore,,, it's USA made... or at least from a very prominent manufacturer that has been around in the USA for decades. Many times now,,, I buy parts from dealers... just because I know the quality control on parts is more strict.

The old addage "you get what you pay for",,, is never more true that now... especially with auto parts.

I'll get off my soapbox now.
 
yes.. definitely a "sticky"!!!! +100. Anyone who reads this thread,,, and is thinking about using aftermarket parts... needs to go back up to post #79. Just because an aftermarket part "claims" it meets or exceeds OEM, (Original Equipment Manufacturer), specifications... doesn't mean it actually does.

To further explain:

After a vehicle is in production and on the road for a few years,,, problems arise with certain parts on the vehicle that are noted by the dealers service department... and passed on to corporate people higher up the manufacturers food chain. Many parts are re-designed slightly... to a different specification, dimension, material, or tolerance. The LS water pump proves this. You'd be surprised how many times I have called up my buddy at the Ford dealer,,, and he tells me a part has been superceded with a different part number. Why is that??? A slight design change in the part.

So... the aftermarket parts manufacturers may be having parts built to the "original" OEM standards,,, but they don't have the specs on the latest design change in the part. This means that whatever caused the original part to fail the first time,,, may cause the aftermarket part to fail in the same way.

I started working on cars and small engines with my dad at age 10. That was over 30 years ago. I remember when you could walk into a parts store... and buy a name brand aftermarket part made in the USA,,, and know that you were getting a good replacement part for a reasonable price, (because most aftermarket parts manufacturers were building the factory parts at the time). That started fading in the 90's,., and has all but disappeared today. Most parts are made overseas now,,, especially in china or third world countries. If I buy an aftermarket part anymore,,, it's USA made... or at least from a very prominent manufacturer that has been around in the USA for decades. Many times now,,, I buy parts from dealers... just because I know the quality control on parts is more strict.

The old addage "you get what you pay for",,, is never more true than now... especially with auto parts.

I'll get off my soapbox now.
 
By the way...

When I say "name brand"... I don't mean everlast or dura-whatever or any house brand. I mean Moog, Precision, Ac Delco, Standard Motor Products, Bosch, Motorcraft, GM, Ford, Chrysler, Fel-Pro, Timken, National, Wix, Raybestos, Bendix... and others.
 
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