Harsh reverse engagements

Telco said:
Mine also had a hard shift into reverse, along with hard shifting in other gears. Had the computer checked, shop found several fried control circuits in the computer. No codes. With the new computer, all shifts are now smooth.

I might add that I originally thought solenoid too, replaced it and it wasn't. And the computer is a lot easier to get done than the solenoid pack on an LS.
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Telco, did you remove and send your PCM out to SIA for repair or did you buy a rebuilt one from them (assume it would have to be programmed).
 
lsintoronto said:
Telco, did you remove and send your PCM out to SIA for repair or did you buy a rebuilt one from them (assume it would have to be programmed).
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I have a spare vehicle so I sent mine in. Took a week or so. Another member sent in a junkyard PCM and had to take the car to the dealer after for programming. Both methods work well.
 
Ah ok - sounds like something I'll have to try once I figure out when the downtime on the car can be feasible. Thanks!
 
OK, keep in mind that it only gets worse with time. Don't wait so long that the max pressure commands from the computer cause permanent trans damage.
 
OK thanks - Is the PCM difficult to remove for a non-tech and is there a write-up somewhere? I looked on the deneau link but I'm not sure about the removal instructions for the "cabin air filter plenum" (section 412-01). Is the removal all inside the car (no work needed in the engine compartment)? I have a trip coming up and can probably park the car for that week and send the PCM away for service if I can get it out of the car.
 
The "cabin air filter plenum" is under the hood.
 
No, it's not hard. I put it at about 2.5 of 10 on the hard job scale. Heavily overstupidgeneered (LS_inspired word is copyright pending) but not hard. You remove the windshield wipers. Remove the cowl cover. Remove the strut tower brace. Remove the air filter. Remove the air filter housing. Remove the shield you see under the air filter housing. Remove the three wiring plugs on the back of the computer. Put tape over the connectors to keep water out of the plugs. Remove the glovebox. Remove the computer. Install is the reverse. There are a few wiggly bits on the interior side but you'll see them when you get under there. It's a lot easier to do than anything inside the transmission, I can tell you that. When I pulled my computer I think it took me about 2 hours or so to get it out, and about that long to get it back in. Mind you I work at a slow, deliberate pace and usually without a manual.

Biggest pains on the job, I lost one of the bolts holding the air filter housing down in the fender somewhere because it slipped off the wrench. And, they used some weird retaining slot and pin job holding the glove box stop arms in. Everyone else uses a simple 90 degree bend to hold the glove box arms, Lincoln decided to use a complicated, easy to break if you don't know exactly what it is slot and pin job. Good luck.
 
^^That sounds like fun.

Slot and pin to hold the glove box in place - haven't seen that before.
 
Telco said:
............And, they used some weird retaining slot and pin job holding the glove box stop arms in. Everyone else uses a simple 90 degree bend to hold the glove box arms, Lincoln decided to use a complicated, easy to break if you don't know exactly what it is slot and pin job. Good luck.
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lsintoronto said:
^^That sounds like fun.

Slot and pin to hold the glove box in place - haven't seen that before.
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It's part of the "soft" opening feature. It's been on my Ford products (4 Sable's and 4 LSes) since 1986. That pin is attached to a cord that lowers the door slowly.
 
LS4me said:
It's part of the "soft" opening feature. It's been on my Ford products (4 Sable's and 4LSes) since 1986. That pin is attached to a cord that lowers the door slowly.
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Don't be trying to use facts and reason against a rant..
 
I got everything in the PCM area in the engine bay out tonight to have access to the module except that the middle bolt for the engine strut brace broke off right below the bolt head so have to figure out how to get the rest of the bolt out and see if my local dealer has one. I can put it back together temporarily with the other bolts though.

Ran into the said issue with the glove box though just as light was fading at dusk so will revisit in the morning. I removed the side panel by the door and could see the stop arms and "released" them (from a guide I think as I couldn't see) by pushing outward on them. i could not see a cable attached to them though so not sure how the lower the doors completely to get at the 3 bottom screws of the glove box.

Is there a trick to this? The instructions in deneau.com doesn't have the step for the glove box door arms.
 
I mentioned that the very middle bolt for the factory strut brace sheared/broke while removing it (sheared off at the head - rusted). I've never had to remove a broken off or sheared bolt before. is there a trick to remove this?

Thanks!

IMG_20150529_223925_zpsjsr80qsg.jpg
 
Got the glove box out and one of the bolts holding the PCM bracket (the one that is easier to access). Still trying to get the other one that's further back.
 
Yes, I rant and yes, I will be selling the car. My house stuff should be wrapped up by the end of September and the only reason I've not ditched it yet is because I can't make major financial changes with a pending mortgage. Immediately after I move into the new house the Lincoln is gone. I understand the rest of you are happy with your cars, and that's fine. Just don't want it to be mistaken that I do. And no worries about my leaving either, there won't be any tantrums thrown. Just a simple post saying I've sold, here's a pic of the replacement, and good luck to the rest of you. I may not like the car, but the community here (while a little rough on new members) is pretty good.

Nevertheless, while I rant about things with the car I do feel the information provided around the rant is valuable to someone digging somewhere they've not been before and I have. That pin thing was a major pain to deal with because you not only can't see it but it's not a common way of retaining the glove box door.

On the broken bolt, an easy out will work. Those bolts are large enough that an easy out will be easy to use. On the replacement bolt, this is a hidden bolt so you can replace with any bolt of the correct length and pitch. It'll be a lot cheaper to pick one up at the hardware store than the dealer. The dealer bolt can be as high as 10 bucks for one.

For the bolt on the computer that's hard to get at, I had to remove a couple of the wire plugs on the sidewall of the car and move them aside to get to it. Also, I think there are a couple of bolts on the engine side of the firewall holding the computer in.

There is also a wire cable bolted to the back of the glove box that will keep the box from coming out. I don't know what it's for but it seems weird to have bolted this to the back of the glove box instead of to a brace behind the dash. On the glove box door, once the door stops are out the door will swing down enough to get at the screws holding the inner box in place.
 
I had a Jag some years ago. Had trouble with the trans. Dealer told me I needed a rebuild of my TH400 trans. I objected that the trans was a ZF. (The TH400 was only used with the 12 cylinder engine.) I scratched my head for a few days and decided to try changing the relay that supplied electric power to the trans. Found a duplicate (except for plastic housing color) at O'Reilly's for about $6. Problem solved.

They wanted $2800 to 'do' the trans.

KS
 
Yeah I figure the PCM diagnostic/repair is a decent shot before looking at any big jobs with the car. Got it out and it's ready to ship out to SIA tomorrow. One of the studs on the PCM bracket broke off in the nut while trying to undo it (one of the 2 in the engine bay - seized to the nut).

Is it ok to re-connect the battery with the PCM out of the car so I can at least lock the doors? Does that mess up anything?
 
Oh, anyone have a link to the SIA Electronics special on eBay (PCM rebuild for $160 including return shipping)? Can't seem to find it on there now.
 
lsintoronto said:
...Is it ok to re-connect the battery with the PCM out of the car so I can at least lock the doors? Does that mess up anything?
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It should be okay as long as the connectors aren't touching anything. You know, you can lock the doors manually without power, at each door. (And you can unlock the driver's door and the trunk without power using the key.)
 
joegr said:
It should be okay as long as the connectors aren't touching anything. You know, you can lock the doors manually without power, at each door. (And you can unlock the driver's door and the trunk without power using the key.)
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I knew about the driver door and trunk but wasn't sure how to lock the others without the key.
 
I don't know where you are, but put duct tape over the computer connectors on the wiring harness. Very important, you don't want water in there at all. While the computer is gone you can use an Easy-Out to drill that broken bolt out. You're going to want all the bolts to put the computer back, otherwise you might get mystery water leaks in the passenger floorpan after hitting large puddles.
 
Telco said:
I don't know where you are, but put duct tape over the computer connectors on the wiring harness. Very important, you don't want water in there at all. While the computer is gone you can use an Easy-Out to drill that broken bolt out. You're going to want all the bolts to put the computer back, otherwise you might get mystery water leaks in the passenger floorpan after hitting large puddles.
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Thanks, will do. The one stud on the bracket broke about half way so I should be able to reinstall/tighten up both sides as long as I can find another nut that fits....or another bracket if I can find one quickly for a good price.
 
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