Heater blows cold air

[Jonathan]

Removed the engine fill cap and degas cap, filled both to proper levels. Ran the car for 2-3 min idle then opened bleeder valve until steady stream of coolant was coming out. Installed the bleeder valve cap back on and ran the car again for 2-3 min this time around 2000rpms. And i did have the heater turned up to 90degrees on both passanger and driver side. Im only getting heat off the passanger side though. The air thats blowing out the driver side vents are still cool, not even close to how hot the passanger side is. I drove it around today and havent had an overheating problem yet. Although the vent situation is still the same. I suspect its probably DCCV. I did that test as i said before and got 88.8 / 188.8

 

[Jonathan]

Havent seen anything leaking from under the car yet. And i recently found that the old radiator had been patched with something like JB welds. Turns out there was a rather big crack in the radiator that was causing air to get into the cooling system. I replaced the radiator because i could hear bubbling in the degas the other day. thats when i found the crack. other cooling system parts checked and everything seems fine. still want to look into this purge valve or whatever its called at the bottom left under the radiator that is supposedly what controls the heat for the passanger and driver side air. I read about it online the other night but cant remember what its called. Any clue to what the rattling/grinding sound is under the car? Trans????? Maybev torque converter?

 

[joegr]

... Im only getting heat off the passanger side though. The air thats blowing out the driver side vents are still cool, not even close to how hot the passanger side is. ...

Your DCCV is bad. One side has stuck closed (unless a previous owner plugged one of the hoses).
The DCCV is what you are asking about in your 2nd post. Some places also call it a heater valve. DCCV = Dual Coolant Control Valve.

 

[DANRS112]

Havent seen anything leaking from under the car yet. And i recently found that the old radiator had been patched with something like JB welds. Turns out there was a rather big crack in the radiator that was causing air to get into the cooling system. I replaced the radiator because i could hear bubbling in the degas the other day. thats when i found the crack. other cooling system parts checked and everything seems fine. still want to look into this purge valve or whatever its called at the bottom left under the radiator that is supposedly what controls the heat for the passanger and driver side air. I read about it online the other night but cant remember what its called. Any clue to what the rattling/grinding sound is under the car? Trans????? Maybev torque converter?

Ooh maybe flexplate too. I have a thread here with a video of the sound mine makes.....coming from bell housing. I have a flex plate ordered....and found reman torque converters for $175....not sure if ill pay somebody to replace flex plate($45). But if I'm wrong just buy the tv while still apart and throw it in. Or if I just bite the bullet and replace both at once, no matter which is bad.

 

[Nuttso Black]

I have the same issue! I have a leak by the driver side tire that is fairly slow but noticeable and I dont get any heat. I believe that I have the cracked reservoir, but not sure. Whats the easiest and cheapest way to fix this? I have a 2000 V8 LS