How do you drive SST mode?

My last purchased LS has a hitch, and I guarantee you that if I pull anything of substantial weight considering the hitch class, I will put it in D4 on any uphill that is long or against any STRONG headwind on level roads.
I will not strain an overdrive, ever. don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
My last purchased LS has a hitch, and I guarantee you that if I pull anything of substantial weight considering the hitch class, I will put it in D4 on any uphill that is long or against any STRONG headwind on level roads.
I will not strain an overdrive, ever. don-ohio :)^)
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4th is an overdriven gear.......
 
D4 is the only gear of choice to maintain road speed. Sure,3rd is better,but too slow on moderate hills......so it's a waste of time and gas. Going to D5 will just wear not only the tranny but the engine as well. don-ohio :)^)
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Quote Loud:

"it just increases the chance of messing up a shift due to human error..."

Been there... did that a few times when I first got my LS. My hand/ear coodination isn't quick enough to properly use SST,,, so now I rarely touch it.
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its not a coordination thing for me, its the inconsistency of the system that I have a problem with...

sometimes when I pull the shifter back it will shift rather quickly ( <.25 secs) sometimes it waits a full second or more and then it bounces off of the limiter once or twice before shifting, then sometimes it doesn't even recognize the command to shift at all, then it really tags the limiter... when it does this, I'm wondering if I'm slamming it back to up shift too hard and then it bounces forward far enough to register a down shift and they cancel each other out. regardless, I mostly only use it for holding a gear through turns, and I will shift it into 1st for launches and then as soon as the car is moving, i shift it back into D5 and let it do its thing.
 
don-ohio said:
My Ford manual shows a ratio in 4th gear of 1 to 1, not overdrive. don-ohio :)^)
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Except the transmission is a 3-speed with an overdrive where each gear can be overdriven. It is technically a 6-speed but two of the gears are so close that one (I don't remember which) is virtually unusable.
 
The manual shows 1:00 turn engine to one turn tailshaft. That's not OD. Shouldn't be OD anyway with that 3:58 rear end. don-ohio :)^)
 
LS4me said:
Except the transmission is a 3-speed with an overdrive where each gear can be overdriven. It is technically a 6-speed but two of the gears are so close that one (I don't remember which) is virtually unusable.
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I thought overdrive strictly meant the transmission gear ration was lower than 1:1 (such as 0.75:1). Nothing to do with how the gears are connected, just that the engine is over driving the driveshaft. You could size the "forward" gears differently to not be overdriven by the lower secondary gear.

don-ohio said:
The manual shows 1:00 turn engine to one turn tailshaft. That's not OD. Shouldn't be OD anyway with that 3:58 rear end. don-ohio :)^)
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The rear end ratio doesn't make any difference either, since all normal rear ends (that I've seen) are going to be in the same range around 2.50:1 to 4.30:1. OD is a transmission term

1LoudLS said:
its not a coordination thing for me, its the inconsistency of the system that I have a problem with...

sometimes when I pull the shifter back it will shift rather quickly ( <.25 secs) sometimes it waits a full second or more and then it bounces off of the limiter once or twice before shifting, then sometimes it doesn't even recognize the command to shift at all, then it really tags the limiter... when it does this, I'm wondering if I'm slamming it back to up shift too hard and then it bounces forward far enough to register a down shift and they cancel each other out. regardless, I mostly only use it for holding a gear through turns, and I will shift it into 1st for launches and then as soon as the car is moving, i shift it back into D5 and let it do its thing.
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3-2 and 2-3 shifts are usually longer. You also can't feel all shifts if you're cruising (though you can probably hear it), so if you give the shift command while it's already shifting, you now have to wait for 1.5 shifts. And yes, mine can definitely fling itself to the other switch to give consecutive +/- commands, cancelling each other out, though I think it's only in one direction. Did they switch +/- for Gen 2s or did you mix it up? I pull back for downshifts and push forward for upshifts
 
FDR Quote: `The rear end ratio doesn't make any difference either, since all normal rear ends (that I've seen) are going to be in the same range around 2.50:1 to 4.30:1. OD is a transmission term' END quote

That's not what I was meaning,FDR. I know the rear end does not figure in whether you call a tranny OD or not. I was meaning that there was NO NEED for a 4th gear OD when you have a diff. ratio of 3:58.SEE? don-ohio :)^)
 
FDR said:
Did they switch +/- for Gen 2s or did you mix it up? I pull back for downshifts and push forward for upshifts
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no, I did the "reverse SST" mod, it feels more natural to me for pulling back to up shift and pushing forward to down shift.
 
Quote Loud:

"its not a coordination thing for me, its the inconsistency of the system that I have a problem with...

sometimes when I pull the shifter back it will shift rather quickly ( <.25 secs) sometimes it waits a full second or more and then it bounces off of the limiter once or twice before shifting, then sometimes it doesn't even recognize the command to shift at all, then it really tags the limiter... when it does this, ..."

Now that you say this,,, I think this was my experience too. I'm pretty sure my engine is worse for wear because of this. Parts turing at 7000 rpm don't like being shut down and turned back on again repeatedly.

Quote Loud again:

"no, I did the "reverse SST" mod, it feels more natural to me for pulling back to up shift and pushing forward to down shift."

I agree 100%. I did the SST reversal a few years ago.

FDR

It's not hard to do. It just takes some patience. Pull the shifter knob and the top of the center console,,, including the storage compartment. You will see 2 micro switches... one each for and aft of the shifter assembly. Each will have a white wire, which is the common, (ground/return), for both switches. The other wires will be blue and brown IIRC. All you have to do is swap these 2 wires. The easy way would be to cut and splice. The harder but better way is to swap them at the connector plug. Trace the wires back to the first connector,,, pull connector apart... and disasseble the connector. I used a #0000 mini screwdriver to pop the tab that locks the individual pins in place. Pulled them out,,, straightened the lock tabs a little... and re-inserted them in the opposite holes,,, assembled the connector and plugged everything back in. Fired the car up... and ran it through sst mode for test.

The other part is switching the +/- indicator,,, because it "horse-shoes" around the gate. I cut mine in 3 pieces,,, and re-attached at opposite ends by melting back together with a soldering iron. The whole think looks and works as if it were factory.
 
I've already looked into how the switches work. I want stupid paddle shifters, I saw Quik's write up, and I already took it apart for LEDs. The arrangement makes enough sense to me, so I see no reason to change it. Granted, I have no real sequential shifter experience. But thanks
 
FDR said:
I've already looked into how the switches work. I want stupid paddle shifters, I saw Quik's write up, and I already took it apart for LEDs. The arrangement makes enough sense to me, so I see no reason to change it. Granted, I have no real sequential shifter experience. But thanks
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I installed a steering wheel with paddle shifters on my BMW (had to modify the airbag...). I actually prefer them to the console shifter (which I could also use) as I can keep my hands on the wheel. It also helped that I got a steal on the wheel out of Lithuania.
 
yes, I can understand wheel mounted switches a lot more than the shifter based versions for the same reason. much safer to be able to click down a gear in the middle of a turn without having to move your hands vs reaching down to click through them...

I always wanted to do the paddle shifter mod but after talking to Lou a could of times about the wiring "around" the clock spring, just wasn't worth the trouble
 
1LoudLS said:
yes, I can understand wheel mounted switches a lot more than the shifter based versions for the same reason. much safer to be able to click down a gear in the middle of a turn without having to move your hands vs reaching down to click through them...

I always wanted to do the paddle shifter mod but after talking to Lou a could of times about the wiring "around" the clock spring, just wasn't worth the trouble
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Didn't Lou mount the shifters on the column, not the wheel?? Wouldn't need to worry about the clockspring.
 
I've seen the column idea thrown around. Some people prefer that because it's easier to keep track of the +/- location.

As for the wiring problem, I haven't had a good solution for that. I was thinking maybe run a coiled phone wire wrapped around the steering shaft. Get fancy with phone jacks and you can make it easy to replace the wire when it fails. But, can I actually get past the clockspring? I don't know, I forgot to look
 
LS4me said:
Didn't Lou mount the shifters on the column, not the wheel?? Wouldn't need to worry about the clockspring.
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no they were mounted to the back side o the steering wheel

Pic4.JPG

Pic4.JPG
 
FDR said:
I've seen the column idea thrown around. Some people prefer that because it's easier to keep track of the +/- location.

As for the wiring problem, I haven't had a good solution for that. I was thinking maybe run a coiled phone wire wrapped around the steering shaft. Get fancy with phone jacks and you can make it easy to replace the wire when it fails. But, can I actually get past the clockspring? I don't know, I forgot to look
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Here comes my cooky Robot Logic.

I watch Formula 1 racing and they have the paddles on the steering yoke. As far as keeping track of the +/- position, you should be in the appropriate gear for such a tight turn anyway if you have to turn the wheel more than 90 deg. I never have to turn the wheel past 90 deg at full throttle.
 
Robot said:
Here comes my cooky Robot Logic.

I watch Formula 1 racing and they have the paddles on the steering yoke. As far as keeping track of the +/- position, you should be in the appropriate gear for such a tight turn anyway if you have to turn the wheel more than 90 deg. I never have to turn the wheel past 90 deg at full throttle.
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dont forget, race cars have a much slower ratio steering rack, never have I seen any race car steering wheel turn 1.5 times around in either direction to hit full lock like most street cars, a lot of the time, you hit full lock in under 180* in either direction.

F1 cars usually have an or near an 1:1 steering ratio, so their wheels ont usually even turn a full 90*, so no matter how far the wheel is turned in either direction, there hands are still in the proper position to hit the paddles.






just another reason why its almost always a fail when comparing the LS to any race car.
 
1LoudLS said:
dont forget, race cars have a much slower ratio steering rack, never have I seen any race car steering wheel turn 1.5 times around in either direction to hit full lock like most street cars, a lot of the time, you hit full lock in under 180* in either direction.

F1 cars usually have an or near an 1:1 steering ratio, so their wheels ont usually even turn a full 90*, so no matter how far the wheel is turned in either direction, there hands are still in the proper position to hit the paddles.






just another reason why its almost always a fail when comparing the LS to any race car.
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Actually, F1 has changed quite a bit and they flip the yoke quite often now. F1 steering is actually slower most times than road cars. They use a special rack for Monte Carlo to make the tight turns.
 
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