How much should I ask for the '96 D.A,?

I've sent both those out I'm my emails
But I always leave my number too
I personally would reply to them.

I also disable the email response so they have to call or text.
 
For future reference, what is the best way to check for a blown head gasket on an engine that is not in a car? Mine has no coolant in the oil and no external leaks. It also passed a compression test. I never did a leak down test though. Is that the key?

If it was a high mile engine I would just replace them before I would go thru the trouble of putting it in.

A higher mile b head I would need it done.... I would bet on it.
Finding a low mile b head engine is finding a needle in the hay stack.
 
If it was a high mile engine I would just replace them before I would go thru the trouble of putting it in.

A higher mile b head I would need it done.... I would bet on it.
Finding a low mile b head engine is finding a needle in the hay stack.

In my case they most likely failed due to overheating. I know the previous owner overheated the engine badly. So, do you also need to resurface the heads and the block on a used engine? I'm assuming mine are warped.

One more thing, I thought replacing head gaskets on these was fairly difficult and that is why most just swap the engine rather than change them. Your saying that with the replacement engine you would still change them. Do you find this to be a fairly straightforward process?
 
In my case they most likely failed due to overheating. I know the previous owner overheated the engine badly. So, do you also need to resurface the heads and the block on a used engine? I'm assuming mine are warped.
You cant assume anything, it would have to come apart and be inspected.
But it is safe to assume any used b head with miles will have a issue.
One more thing, I thought replacing head gaskets on these was fairly difficult and that is why most just swap the engine rather than change them.
Its not a simple process most people can pull the engine, timing cams another story.
Your saying that with the replacement engine you would still change them. Do you find this to be a fairly straightforward process?
Yes a b head with miles I would take apart before I would install it.
Straightforward? No.... not for most of the people who wrench on a daily driver.
 
Well I figured, what the hell, and tried the Bars Leaks 1111. The car DID run cooler afterwards but not as cool as it should. I test drove it for about 20 miles. I got the "low coolant" warning. I thought I had it topped off but it's possible it was low so I topped it off again. I drove it to work today and got the low coolant warning on the way home. I just checked it now and the reservoir was about half full. I attempted to burp the system. It couldn't be done due to the foam.

So the head gasket is still leaking and putting air in the cooling system. This builds pressure until the cap releases it resulting in a loss of coolant out the cap.

Oh well. It runs cooler though, about the same as when I tried Blue Devil. Previously my way around coolant loss was to just barely tighten the cap. This allowed it to bleed pressure all the time. I still lost coolant but not very fast. It also prevented coolant from entering the cylinder when it sat overnight.
 
Someone is coming tomorrow to possibly buy it. I was straight with him about the car and he's still interested. I'm slightly disappointed because I backpedaled on selling my other one and now it would have been nice to have parted the DA and kept some spare parts for myself. The only critical part that I have a spare of is the IMRCs. If my ECM fails or the VCRM I'm going to need you guys' help...if he buys it.

I'd better decide what my bottom line is pretty quick.
 

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