Hydraulic Fan Pump Stuck
- Thread starter ATPJOE
- Start date
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
You might try removing a stripped bolt, if you can get at it, by using a socket combined with a screwdriver. You turn it with the socket while prying with the driver. If you can't get the driver in there, you can try prying between the pump and the engine. If you do it this way, you'll need to work both bolts out equally, 1/2 turn at a time. Be careful to not damage the pump if you pry on it.
Keep in mind that I've never seen one of these things before (mine's a 2003), but this is how I've removed stripped nuts and bolts on other stuff in the past. Doesn't always work so it's not a guaranteed way to do it.
Keep in mind that I've never seen one of these things before (mine's a 2003), but this is how I've removed stripped nuts and bolts on other stuff in the past. Doesn't always work so it's not a guaranteed way to do it.
They're too seized for that method. I've used that before on my old Blazer on some interior stuff. I know this local mechanic who has been doing work for people in town for $50 a job (for almost any job, nuts) and I'm probably going to just pay him to get that damn thing out. I do worry that he wont be able to, and I'll have to get raped by a dealer.
I just got all the hydraulic fan/shroud nonsense out, that was annoying. Since I have a wide open shot at the DCCV, I'm going to try to get that out so I can do my sway bushings the easiest way possible haha. Then I'll go obtain a Taurus fan and try to get that working and have the mechanic do his thing then she's good to go.
Also The fan shroud and the actuator are all intact and functional if anyone would like to buy it off me... IDK who still replaces the hydraulic crap rather than update though.
I just got all the hydraulic fan/shroud nonsense out, that was annoying. Since I have a wide open shot at the DCCV, I'm going to try to get that out so I can do my sway bushings the easiest way possible haha. Then I'll go obtain a Taurus fan and try to get that working and have the mechanic do his thing then she's good to go.
Also The fan shroud and the actuator are all intact and functional if anyone would like to buy it off me... IDK who still replaces the hydraulic crap rather than update though.
hite337
Hite Performance
OK, for the top bolt behind the hydraulic line....use a cold chisel and score the pump body down its length where the bolt is. Then take a pry bar and line it up with the score mark and hammer away. This will split the hydraulic pump housing and it will fall out. Then you can turn the bolt out with minimal effort.
Taurus fans pull alot of amps, I run a Flex-A-Lite 183 fan and it does very well. 18 amps max, I think the Taurus fans pull 35+ amps.
Taurus fans pull alot of amps, I run a Flex-A-Lite 183 fan and it does very well. 18 amps max, I think the Taurus fans pull 35+ amps.
hite337
Hite Performance
In response to your PM...Yes the pump is made of cast aluminum which is rather brittle and if you score the pump along the area of the area of the bolt it will weaken. Then samck it hard and it will fall apart. I have done this a few times and it works in a pinch.
hite337
Hite Performance
And the Taurus fan will work, it just pulls alot of amps. My headlights dim slightly when I turn my Flex-A-Lite on and off and it only pulls 18 amps max. Some people have used the factory fans and had success but I would think it would be hard on your alternator.
Cool thanks. I'm going to have to try that on both the top bolts and I should be able to get my drill on the bottom left bolt thats rounded and just drill the head off I think. Results will be posted tomorrow, I gotta go get a longer chisel.
My alternator is probably going to blow up soon anyways from all the Mercon that was leaking all over it for so long. I would rather invest in a higher output alternator and the taurus fan, I think it'd cost as much as just the flex fan.
My alternator is probably going to blow up soon anyways from all the Mercon that was leaking all over it for so long. I would rather invest in a higher output alternator and the taurus fan, I think it'd cost as much as just the flex fan.
hite337
Hite Performance
Flex-A-Lite fan for around $250
http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Flex-a-lite-183-Engine-Cooling-Fan-3276519.html
http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Flex-a-lite-183-Engine-Cooling-Fan-3276519.html
hite337
Hite Performance
A high output alternator will not work properly in these cars. The voltage regulator seems to be controlled by the PCM and will not let a HO alternator work how it is designed. I tried a PowerMax 200 amp and a DB Electrical 220 amp and neither would work correctly. I finally went with the OEM and I think its being pushed to the max
Im going to have to wing it with the taurus fan, my paycheck is tied up with bills. If it kills my alternator then I learned my lesson haha. Either way I cannot afford the flexalite or a questionable eBay h/o alternator right now. are there any other stock fans I could pull at the yard that dont draw 35amps? Could I use one of those universal 12" fans for now? I get paid in 2 weeks and don't have to drive to work for 2 weeks so my car could sit that long if need be i guess.
EDIT: That sucks about the high amp alternators. Kind of kills my plans of e-fan AND powering my sub in the future.
Would a puller and pusher combo of these work?
EDIT: That sucks about the high amp alternators. Kind of kills my plans of e-fan AND powering my sub in the future.
Would a puller and pusher combo of these work?
hite337
Hite Performance
I dont know of any factory fans that pull 2500 to 3000 CFM of air and dont draw alot of amps. If you use a universal 12" fan you'd probly need two to pull enuf air to keep your car cool.
Edit: Sold on Taurus fan. It will give me peace of mind as far as CFM's. It SHOULD be fine on my charging system, maybe not long term but we'll see. If it doesn't work out I'll cough up the 250 for a flex.
Also I am sleepless debating other methods to get the pump off.... and I've decided I'm going to buy a long drill bit extension and just (theoretically) drill right through the pump and bolts. If I can get a chisel on it, I can get a big ass bit on it. I also am fond of drilling the crap out of things haha. I found a million high-grade drill bits at this old machinists house when cleaning it out so I figure I'll give it a go. I could be overly tired and not thinking straight though so Ill be getting a long chisel as well haha.
Also I am sleepless debating other methods to get the pump off.... and I've decided I'm going to buy a long drill bit extension and just (theoretically) drill right through the pump and bolts. If I can get a chisel on it, I can get a big ass bit on it. I also am fond of drilling the crap out of things haha. I found a million high-grade drill bits at this old machinists house when cleaning it out so I figure I'll give it a go. I could be overly tired and not thinking straight though so Ill be getting a long chisel as well haha.
Update: I got the top back bolt out with a wobble socket and a zillion extensions. So the rounded off bottom easy to get to bolt still remains, and the infamous bolt behind the line fitting. I am trying the chisel and I can't line it up to the length of where the bolt channels through due to the angle of the pump. So I'm confused and stuck. I've been beating the hell out of the line trying to break it off in hopes of a miracle socket fitment from the bottom.
also my drilling idea was an epic failure. the extension reaches right to it, but its too big of a bit holder to put little bits into for making pilot holes. So the theory of it working is plausible but I would need a smaller diameter extension.
PIC
I think I'm going to return this massive drill I bought today for a nice dremel and one of these with some cut off wheels and slice into it from whatever angle I can.
also my drilling idea was an epic failure. the extension reaches right to it, but its too big of a bit holder to put little bits into for making pilot holes. So the theory of it working is plausible but I would need a smaller diameter extension.
PIC
I think I'm going to return this massive drill I bought today for a nice dremel and one of these with some cut off wheels and slice into it from whatever angle I can.
hite337
Hite Performance
The only bolt I ever had to chisel was the bolt behind the fluid line. The others are probly hard to get to
My dremel idea is working great. Had to stop due to it getting late and annoying neighbors. Cut the pulley off so I could get a good angle on the bolt behind the line and it's almost through it, finishing it off tomorrow. The bottom bolt that stripped will be easy to get off with that as well. If you already have a dremel, buying the flex extension is a damn good method to deal with this pump. $34.99 at home depot.
I'll post pictures of everything later. The dremel reinforced discs cut through the pump like butter.
I'll post pictures of everything later. The dremel reinforced discs cut through the pump like butter.
hite337
Hite Performance
Glad to hear its working out. Good luck finishing it up tomorrow!
Pump is out, alternator is back in. I have a question about wiring up the fan... is 6 gauge wire correct to use for the power and ground (with a inline 30A fuse), then something smaller from the key on point? Also what kind of switch and relay would I need to be able to have OFF/LOW/HI all in one switch that I can access from inside? I would only switch it to high if I for some reason saw my needle climb, and to off if I was on the highway or something. I am worried about the load of the Taurus fan, but I have no other options except ebay fans and those could just be garbage. I have 2 huge jobs coming up so worst case scenario I run the Taurus fan until I get paid and buy the Flex.
Heres some pictures:
The life saver, and energy saver
Old and new bushings (only got passenger side on, need a 13mm box wrench for other)
Pump. I will be chucking this across the street soon
Detail of the cut I made to remove the toughest bolt.
Same on the bottom bolt I rounded off.
So much room!
New bushing. It's unreal how simple they are to change when everything is taken out around it.
Heres some pictures:
The life saver, and energy saver
Old and new bushings (only got passenger side on, need a 13mm box wrench for other)
Pump. I will be chucking this across the street soon
Detail of the cut I made to remove the toughest bolt.
Same on the bottom bolt I rounded off.
So much room!
New bushing. It's unreal how simple they are to change when everything is taken out around it.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
You can find a wiring diagram for the Taurus fan here. These are popular on V8 converted S10 pickup trucks, and will cool 500+HP in one, so you'll have no problems with it in the LS. This diagram shows you how to wire it in correctly using sensors, with an override switch if you want it. You'd do better to use the switches, in case you forget for some reason, or if someone else drives it. You never know, and it's better safe than sorry here. So far as where to draw power from, draw it directly from the battery through the relays.
hite337
Hite Performance
Congrats on the pump defeat! I am assuming you read my thread on the belt size you will need. Its a 100" 6rib V belt. Not sure on the wiring, I did mine a little differently. I wired it to come on with the key on and run constant. I also put in a toggle to turn it off at the track (which closed down last year).
Yup I got the right belt. Telco, that seems more complicated than I would like it to be. I wanted my 3 way switch idea, but if that's how to get it done I'll just wire it to be on all the time on low with key on.
Edit:
Fan is mounted, have to rig the A/C can and the aux. pump ghetto because I forgot about them until after I mounted everything lol. I also have to figure out where I want to wire the fan to, I've seen it put on the bolt on the fuse/relay box and may try that out. I also went with a 40A inline fuse, couldn't find one for the holder any smaller. Here's a picture of what it looks like mounted up. Ill have more later and perhaps a little write up for the Taurus fan assuming it works out long term and driving. $27 at the pick n pull.
Edit:
Fan is mounted, have to rig the A/C can and the aux. pump ghetto because I forgot about them until after I mounted everything lol. I also have to figure out where I want to wire the fan to, I've seen it put on the bolt on the fuse/relay box and may try that out. I also went with a 40A inline fuse, couldn't find one for the holder any smaller. Here's a picture of what it looks like mounted up. Ill have more later and perhaps a little write up for the Taurus fan assuming it works out long term and driving. $27 at the pick n pull.
hite337
Hite Performance
In reference to your PM....
I connected the positive wire to 12v constant in the wheel well but you can connect it to the large wire in the bottom of the fuse box under the hood. I tapped into a 12v switched (powered with the key on) wire under the steering column. There is a connecter under the column that has 4 wires. the 12v switched wire is green with an orange stripe i believe. I connected this wire to the relay like the diagram below. it converts the 12v switched to a switched ground with the key on. I have been drinking a little tonight so i hope this makes sense (redbull vodkas!!!)
I connected the positive wire to 12v constant in the wheel well but you can connect it to the large wire in the bottom of the fuse box under the hood. I tapped into a 12v switched (powered with the key on) wire under the steering column. There is a connecter under the column that has 4 wires. the 12v switched wire is green with an orange stripe i believe. I connected this wire to the relay like the diagram below. it converts the 12v switched to a switched ground with the key on. I have been drinking a little tonight so i hope this makes sense (redbull vodkas!!!)
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
mark viii fans are also very popular in conversions like those. i see alot of them pop up on craigslist for this purpose.
another fan source for anybody contemplating a swap like this, although i have no idea if the thing will even fit.
In reference to your PM....
I connected the positive wire to 12v constant in the wheel well but you can connect it to the large wire in the bottom of the fuse box under the hood. I tapped into a 12v switched (powered with the key on) wire under the steering column. There is a connecter under the column that has 4 wires. the 12v switched wire is green with an orange stripe i believe. I connected this wire to the relay like the diagram below. it converts the 12v switched to a switched ground with the key on. I have been drinking a little tonight so i hope this makes sense (redbull vodkas!!!)
Okay so the 12v switched would go to 86, the fan ground would go to 87, and the relay ground would go to both 30 and 85? And 87a stays open? I suck at this stuff so I have to cover my bases. Would any of the relays in the engine fuse box work for this? I could do without heated wiper seats for a day or two if that would work. (same numbers on it, but IDK if it functions the same way?)
hite337
Hite Performance
You are correct about the wiring of the relay.
There may be a 12V switched wire in the fuse box under the hood but IDK which one it is.
There may be a 12V switched wire in the fuse box under the hood but IDK which one it is.