I have fixed my car up...some tips

Turns out i also need a handle housing, so i went to an autobody shop and got them started on a parts search. I am looking for two door panels and the glass runner. I fould the glass runner laying in the bottom of the door after i opened it up. Sounds to me the right side door is also broken.To test i rolled down the windows and closed the doors - if the glass rattles the glass runner is broke off. The parts on not made any longer and will be buying doors from a salvage place. I want the door panels for a new arm rest and wood trim.

Brad.
 
Thanks to Purelux for mentioning http://fastpartsnetwork.com/. I ordered two door trim panels for $544.00 each. The panels each cost $1200.00 here in Saskatoon. Now I will have nice new arm rests. I owe Purelux a case of beer....

Regards,
Brad.
 
Fast Parts Network have found "the last set of door panels" and are shipping them to me. It took them a week, but got new factory parts. Yuse guys dont use up all my parts, eh?

Brad.
 
About my pulsing issue waiting at traffic lights, i think it may be the torque converter kicking in and out. I see my transmission computer had been reprogrammed once before by a dealer.

Brad.
 
I got my door trim panels in the mail, and made the appointment at the body shop for June 10. I am spending another $2500.00 to clean up the interior and get my door handle fixed and my windows repaired. One sure notices all the new dings and scratches at the body shop. My car will be far from perfect but very nice.

I am back to thinking it is my a/c unit causing the pulsing at the lights.

Later,
Brad.
 
My car was only in the shop for one day and the door handle is fixed, and the door panels look very nice and my windows dont rattle. My next step will be to get the car detailed.
Regards,
Brad.
 
bradyelich said:
About my pulsing issue waiting at traffic lights, i think it may be the torque converter kicking in and out. I see my transmission computer had been reprogrammed once before by a dealer.

Brad.
Click to expand...

Does the car stall at all? and or do the same when you are turning? (sputtering/pulsing?)
 
No, my car does not stall. It pulses slightly sometimes waiting at a light. I think it is the a/c unit kicking in and out. The car does not do this everytime, but frequent enough. From my research, the torque converters can cause weird things to happen. The torque converter and tranny are about the only things left on my car to get repaired, and hope I never have to.
Brad.
 
I have done a little reading and found that the Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch signals to PCM to disengage the torque converter clutch when brake is on. I think there is something causing an intermittent signal, probably another dirty plug or broken/exposed wire.

Regards,
Brad.
 
Today, my car did not start. I had it in the garage, unheated, but still -12 C inside vs. the -25 C outside. It fired up, running really rough, and died. I drained the battery in two more attempts. I think my battery was weak and and had one corroded connection. I hooked up battery charger and one other Ford batery I have for such emergencies. I had to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over 5 or 6 times before it started. It was flooded. The weak battery must not have fired up all the sensors or something stuck momentarily, or I had condensation somewhere. To start a flooded fuel injested vehicle, one must hold the gas pedal to the floor - same as the old carberator motors. Once I got the car started, I drove around the block, and to get beer and wine. It seemed to be back to normal. I will charge battery overnight and see if it starts in the morning. Forecasted for -33 C tonight and -39 C Monday night - nice.....! Glad my car goofed up in my gargage and not at wife's work Monday.....
Merry Christmas
Brad Yelich.
 
My car fired right up with 13 volts in the battery this morning and it was -36 C. It sat outside while visiting at my Sister's place and started up no problem. Just a weak battery and corroded battery post.
Cheers,
Brad.
 
Yes, it is cold - cant wait to get out ice fishing.... Yes, our cars work, but must be tip top shape battery/charging system wise, in any weather.

From my experience in the desert, heat is more of a killer than cold. The cold helps you by not getting going, thus preventing damage. The heat lets you get going and helps burn up engines and drivetrains and batteries.

These cars should have a second battery or a real big one like the Jaguars use.

Salut,
Brad.
 
Time for a new master cylinder. I managed to find a reman one for $340 vs. the $611 Ford wanted, but Ford don't have any more in North America. No more parts for Continentals. Time to donate the car to the museum.
 
Well, my Dixie altenator lasted 2 years and 2 days. My replacement Champion alternator was bad, so I returned it, the next one was bad until I replaced the regulator - its regulator was not replaced by Champion.

Make sure you use the fill tube to replace the coolant. If you just refill from the overflow box, you will over heat in 4 miles.
 
I did a visual and saw my AC clutch kicking in and out. This is the cause of my pulsing problem - the engine speeds up to cover the power drain for the AC pump.
 
I drove my Mom out to Chilliwack for a funeral and we took my car. My car computer read 9.2 L/100 km - or over 25 mpg US - after driving 1630km. I tried to use 110kph as my top speed. The return trip I used 120 kph as my top speed and average gas use read 9.5L/100 km for all 3260km. I made the 1600km home in one shot 16hrs40min. Car ran perfect.
 
I just finished installing new brake pads and rotors on all 4 corners. $350.00CN for the Raybestos parts at cost from my buddy. Fronts are standard Ford disk brake set up similar to my Windstar. The rears are a puzzle and have a strict order of operations. Mostly because the bottom mounting bolt is covered by the Ebrake cable. For the rears one requires the brake piston rotation tool, not a spreader or compressor type tool. Rotating the brake piston sort of screws itself down. I had a 'common' brake piston rotation tool for this and had to modify it to work.
 
My Automatic Climate Control started clicking last Monday. I did a visual inspection and could see an arm trying to move but it did not have enough power to move it all the way. Today, I performed the self test and it showed 024 code: A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator failure. I will attempt to obtain the actuator and replace in a few days.

To perform the self test: ensure vehicle interior is 16-26C (60-80F) inside and press OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within 2 seconds; a pulse tracer will flash and in 30 seconds or so the info will appear; to exit the self test and save the codes and turn off, press the blue (cooler) button or to exit and erase the codes, press DEFROST button and the display will show 888 for one second and turn off.
 
bradyelich said:
My Automatic Climate Control started clicking last Monday. I did a visual inspection and could see an arm trying to move but it did not have enough power to move it all the way. Today, I performed the self test and it showed 024 code: A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator failure. I will attempt to obtain the actuator and replace in a few days.
Click to expand...

fords are all prone to the blend door actuator failure ive seen hundreds of them, the partial gear on the lever inside the motor stripped a few teeth, and the actuator has a small circuit board so the eatc can see where it is, when it doesnt reach the desired position it just sits there and pops. a good tip is when you get the old actuator out take it apart and you will see what im talking about, then remove the arm off of the bad actuator and put into the dash to check the blend door itself. you dont want to put in a new actuator and strip it cuz the door is stuck :)slam: <-- experience)
 
The EATC cost me $120.00CN and I installed it in 4 hours. The top right bolt is very difficult to get to; one must have 1/4" drive ratchet with extension and 5/16" and 9/32" sockets and the same in flat wrenches. 7mm and 8mm work also.

The gear that stipped was the tall skinny one.
 
My car threw code P0303 - misfire on #3. I changed coils and plug but it is the wire....if i started with plugs it would have been the coils.... Waiting for my wires to arrive. Maybe this will fix the pulsing while stopped on brake.
 
I put my new wire on and the car is smooth again. No pulsing yet. I have had the car 4 years before it decided the wire was bad. Coiles $99.99 times 2; wires $152.00 ' spark plugs $45. But I did the labour so same as if I took it to the stealer and I have all new parts.
 
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Since it has warmed up I completed install of the other 7 wires and plugs. I used Bosch plugs and my pulsing is completely gone and the car is back to brand new smooth. Funny how all the pulsing the car was doing no other misfire or any other codes were thrown.

One other note, I found my set screw for the variable intake had fallen out and was sitting right on the block (lucky) for the left side. I put it back in and set it to the same as the right side.
 
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